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Old 02-18-2013, 09:56 PM   #5726
lukeskywrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk8boylou View Post
Had a quick question about doing a complete v8 6spd swap with 5x114 hubs. I was told I will loose my abs if I keep my stock 02 wrx abs sensors with the 5x114 hubs. Also will I run into issues with my neutral saftey swich? I am running v8 ej207 with the v8 ecu in an 02 bugeye.
The ABS sensors are the same for all hubs however on the STI 114.3 hubs the tone rings are on the axles rather than the hubs such as in the 5x100 hubs.

You just need the STI axles that match the hubs

If you have a V8 transmission and a V8 ecu why do you think you would have problems with the NSS?
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:56 PM   #5727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeskywrx View Post
The ABS sensors are the same for all hubs however on the STI 114.3 hubs the tone rings are on the axles rather than the hubs such as in the 5x100 hubs.

You just need the STI axles that match the hubs

If you have a V8 transmission and a V8 ecu why do you think you would have problems with the NSS?
Thanks for the info not sure what i was thinking about NSS, guess i was thinking about people running sti transmission with wrx ecu. But thank you again!
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:09 PM   #5728
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The tone ring is on the axle for both 5x100 and 5x114.3. The difference is WHERE they are. I did the swap on mine and with custom hubs and the tone ring sits farther back on the axle for 5x114.3 vs 5x100. You'll need a spacer for this. So the abs sensor will see the tone ring and you'll be able to keep your ABS.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:29 AM   #5729
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Future V7 owner here. Will I see an improvement using a GrimmSpeed coated Uppipe vs the JDM stock?

I assume the JDM unit isn't catted like the USDM counterpart.

I purchased the GrimmSpeed pipe for my USDM motor before it went south.

Thanks in advance guys.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:33 AM   #5730
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Originally Posted by JLD13 View Post
Future V7 owner here. Will I see an improvement using a GrimmSpeed coated Uppipe vs the JDM stock?

I assume the JDM unit isn't catted like the USDM counterpart.

I purchased the GrimmSpeed pipe for my USDM motor before it went south.

Thanks in advance guys.
There is no cat or probe on the JDM version. However the ID of the up pipe is slightly larger with no accordion flex joint under the heat shield should it still is a good upgrade
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:46 AM   #5731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vogun16 View Post
The avcs Cel P1306 light ended up coming back after two days of running great. Any suggestions? I will probably swap solenoids and see if the problem follows the solenoid.
I have the same issue.

I found a 2002 STi service manual online and it had the following procedure for troubleshooting.

1) disconnect the electrical connector from the RH (passenger in US) AVCS solenoid
2) disconnect the center ECU connecter
3) use a meter to check resistance
- pin 6 on the B84 ECU connector (this is one of the wires moved in wiring AVCS) should read <1 ohm to the AVCS solenoid connector. My 2002 WRX pin 6 was blue / green stripe
- pin 12 on the B84 ECU connector should read <1 ohm with the other connector. My pin 12 was yellow / green stripe.

4) use a meter to check resistance
- both pins on the solenoid harness connector should read > 1 Mohm between the pin and engine ground

5) use a meter to check resistance
- resistance between the two solenoid pins should read between 4 and 12 ohms (mine was ~8 ohms)

My issue appears to be with #3. One of the wires is reading ~2.x ohms, not less than 1 ohm, as specified. I checked at the connector behind the battery, since these wires were moved up there... it's still high resistance, so it doesn't appear to be my screwing up the wiring. At that connector the wires are blue / green stripe and green / yellow stripe. At the ECU the green / yellow is yellow / green, so there's another connector somewhere that the wires change color, and this is likely where my issue is. It may be this is a common CEL for 207 swap, because there's some inherent weakness in the routing of these wires that the TGVs are not sensitive to, but the AVCS solenoids are? Just a guess.

I think I'm going to splice in a direct wire and hope these don't need shielded. They shouldn't if they're solenoid wires. The shielded wires are the ones that measure the vvt angle.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:44 AM   #5732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
There is no cat or probe on the JDM version. However the ID of the up pipe is slightly larger with no accordion flex joint under the heat shield should it still is a good upgrade
THANKS!
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:40 AM   #5733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk8boylou View Post
Had a quick question about doing a complete v8 6spd swap with 5x114 hubs. I was told I will loose my abs if I keep my stock 02 wrx abs sensors with the 5x114 hubs. Also will I run into issues with my neutral saftey swich? I am running v8 ej207 with the v8 ecu in an 02 bugeye.
You just need to get LIC Motorsports ABS Tone Rings. Here is the links for either size you may need. Or you can get 5x114 STI Axles, as Lukeskywrx said.

http://www.licmotorsports.com/produc...mm_lic-0207116

http://www.licmotorsports.com/produc...mm_lic-0207118
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:16 AM   #5734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Concillian View Post
I have the same issue.

I found a 2002 STi service manual online and it had the following procedure for troubleshooting.

1) disconnect the electrical connector from the RH (passenger in US) AVCS solenoid
2) disconnect the center ECU connecter
3) use a meter to check resistance
- pin 6 on the B84 ECU connector (this is one of the wires moved in wiring AVCS) should read <1 ohm to the AVCS solenoid connector. My 2002 WRX pin 6 was blue / green stripe
- pin 12 on the B84 ECU connector should read <1 ohm with the other connector. My pin 12 was yellow / green stripe.

4) use a meter to check resistance
- both pins on the solenoid harness connector should read > 1 Mohm between the pin and engine ground

5) use a meter to check resistance
- resistance between the two solenoid pins should read between 4 and 12 ohms (mine was ~8 ohms)

My issue appears to be with #3. One of the wires is reading ~2.x ohms, not less than 1 ohm, as specified. I checked at the connector behind the battery, since these wires were moved up there... it's still high resistance, so it doesn't appear to be my screwing up the wiring. At that connector the wires are blue / green stripe and green / yellow stripe. At the ECU the green / yellow is yellow / green, so there's another connector somewhere that the wires change color, and this is likely where my issue is. It may be this is a common CEL for 207 swap, because there's some inherent weakness in the routing of these wires that the TGVs are not sensitive to, but the AVCS solenoids are? Just a guess.

I think I'm going to splice in a direct wire and hope these don't need shielded. They shouldn't if they're solenoid wires. The shielded wires are the ones that measure the vvt angle.
I ended up figuring it out the other day. Stephen from IA gave me all of the ohm values to check and I made sure continuity between each wire from the solenoid/sensor to b84. My issue was that in the process of moving the pins, the female pin at B84 was spread open too much and not making contact at the edu.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:10 PM   #5735
Dirtyhobo010
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Does anyone know if the GM IAT will thread into the same location as the stock IAT on my V8 jdm IM without modification?
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:16 PM   #5736
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Originally Posted by Dirtyhobo010 View Post
Does anyone know if the GM IAT will thread into the same location as the stock IAT on my V8 jdm IM without modification?
We discussed this about 5 pages back. The GM one is way too big. It sounds like the existing one is probably 1/8 PT threaded but this has not been verified yet.

If you want to pull your out and verify the thread size, there are several of us that would like to know so we can try to order IAT sensors in the correct thread size.

This one might be the best plug & play option:

http://www.nzefi.com/product/inlet-a...rature-sensor/
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:34 PM   #5737
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*Confused*
I emailed IA to see which harness I need to buy from them to get avcs on my v8 heads and they told me I need both the bulkhead, and the other one. That's $400 worth of little wires.
I am getting conflicting information saying that I don't need both. Can anyone clear this up?
02 wrx usdm. I have not done the swap yet, I'm gathering all the parts needed for swap.
So far I have:
V7 ecu
V8 heads, complete.

What else is needed?

Has anybody here done their own harness? From the picture on IA website, it looks like one of the harnesses is a simple 4 wires...
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:41 PM   #5738
vogun16
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I used my TGV wires for the AVCS solenoids.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:10 PM   #5739
Concillian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florin1 View Post
*Confused*
I emailed IA to see which harness I need to buy from them to get avcs on my v8 heads and they told me I need both the bulkhead, and the other one. That's $400 worth of little wires.
I am getting conflicting information saying that I don't need both. Can anyone clear this up?
02 wrx usdm. I have not done the swap yet, I'm gathering all the parts needed for swap.
So far I have:
V7 ecu
V8 heads, complete.

If you do not have the version 7, 8, or 9 engine harness, then you need both wiring sets. The JDM harness comes with the engine if you buy an engine package, but if you are assembling your own parts to make AVCS work, then you probably did not get the JDM engine harness with your heads, and therefore probably need both sets.

Quote:
Has anybody here done their own harness? From the picture on IA website, it looks like one of the harnesses is a simple 4 wires...
It's 4 wires, but they must be shielded wires. 4 on the engine side and 5 on the ECU side (one is ground for the shield). Plus finding a source for ECU pins... buying a professional crimper... it's not so simple or economical to build ONE harness.

Last edited by Concillian; 02-19-2013 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:11 PM   #5740
Dirtyhobo010
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I have the IAP bulkhead wiring kit for sale $180 shipped and paypal'd (brand new in box). If you don't have any wiring you will need the extra kit.

I might pull the IAT sensor from my IM this weekend to see the thread pitch.

Last edited by Dirtyhobo010; 02-19-2013 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:13 PM   #5741
WhiteBgeye02
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there is a jdm engine wiring harness on ebay.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:33 PM   #5742
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i just wanted to share with you guys that if any of the v8/v9 guys want to go single scroll i found a nice up pipe that should work great.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261139881540...84.m1497.l2649

shipped really quick and for the price i offered and got accepted i was unsure how good of piece it would be. got it in the mail today and it is pretty nice. its all tig welded and nice bent tubes. welding penetration is nice and the inside of the flanges are all hand ground down smooth instead of leaving the penetrating weld stick out. the flanges seem plenty thick but i am unsure how flat they are right. now. its for stock location single scroll turbos but i plan to cut the top flange off and weld on the v band for the release of the BW efri B1 series exh housings with inlet/outlet v band connections. for the 170 i paid its cheaper than making my own or buying a stock one to cut up. the build wont be happening until the new turbo gets released so i will give an update at that time. just figured it was a great alternative for twin scroll guys that want more options for there engine without switching the whole manifold over to single scroll.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:59 PM   #5743
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Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
its for stock location single scroll turbos but i plan to cut the top flange off and weld on the v band for the release of the BW efri B1 series exh housings with inlet/outlet v band connections. for the 170 i paid its cheaper than making my own or buying a stock one to cut up. the build wont be happening until the new turbo gets released so i will give an update at that time. just figured it was a great alternative for twin scroll guys that want more options for there engine without switching the whole manifold over to single scroll.

I converted single scroll and installed the Full Race B1 frame kit with an EFR 6758 for "stock(ish) location" when the 207 was on the engine stand. EVERY possible clearance is tight.

Rotate it unless you really want to have to worry about every 1/16th inch. Clearance is so tight on the compressor outlet that I need to pry back the TMIC support to get clearance for the hose clamp to slide on over the silicone elbow. Rotating should give you room that you can use the flange where it is. going with the inlet under the intake manifold pushes the turbine inlet towards the firewall from stock location.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:01 PM   #5744
WhiteBgeye02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Concillian View Post
I converted single scroll and installed the Full Race B1 frame kit with an EFR 6758 for "stock(ish) location" when the 207 was on the engine stand. EVERY possible clearance is tight.

Rotate it unless you really want to have to worry about every 1/16th inch. Clearance is so tight on the compressor outlet that I need to pry back the TMIC support to get clearance for the hose clamp to slide on over the silicone elbow. Rotating should give you room that you can use the flange where it is. going with the inlet under the intake manifold pushes the turbine inlet towards the firewall from stock location.
i wish i could afford the kit but i plan to make it stock location starting with this. i am patient and will make it work. just figured i would share the ebay link for someone using just a stock location turbo that are easily had on the forums for much cheaper than buying the whole full race kit/efr turbo or a twin scroll variant to bolt on.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:50 PM   #5745
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AVCS working... let the tuning games begin! I thought I would need inverted NPS, so I had that map loaded. Once I thought everything was wired right and it still wasn't working, I thought to try the map without inverting NPS and it worked!

Unfortunately my Zeitronix Wideband isn't logging to my laptop. I hope I just messed up the ground or something when re-doing the AVCS wiring. I've never tuned AVCS, but it shouldn't affect my MAF scaling, right? I mean I scaled my MAF already when AVCS was zero, so I shouldn't need to adjust it?

10.5 psi wastegate boost is creeping to 12 at redline.
Stock ver8 map timing and stock ver8 AVCS the EFR6758 is hitting 10.5 ~3200 for 235 tq and 278 HP @ 7100 (airboy).
Previously, without AVCS, it wasn't creeping. Seems odd, since at high RPM it's full retard with / without AVCS. It was keeping 10.5 to redline for ~260-265... and of course wasn't spooling until 3700 with no AVCS.
So far it's spooling exactly like my 18g / 7cm on the EJ205... but at 10.5 psi with fully tuned timing, the 18g was 20 less tq. and ~35 HP lower.

This turbo is gonna have a really nice wide powerband once fully tuned. Clark will call it a peanut, but I don't care, it's the right size turbo for me.

The ver8 map doesn't have the OL fueling map for temperature compensation. My car runs like garbage at cold start while the O2 heats up. Sometimes I have to re-start it 2 or 3 times. Cranking maps are great, I had those worked out well for no TGV + E85 + ID1000 already on the EJ205. It fires up first turn even when the car is covered in frost, but the few seconds after start it's sputtering and dying, then the O2 sensor gets warm, it switches to CL and all is great. What maps are adjusted in the ver8 ROM for this? The WRX ROM was easy, I could just adjust the OL ECT vs. enrichment map, The ver8 doesn't have this map defined.

Last edited by Concillian; 02-21-2013 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:16 PM   #5746
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Found a Spec C Type Ra-R Engine for sale in the UK while looking for my next motor. Almost $9000.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:24 PM   #5747
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Originally Posted by 25rsti View Post
Found a Spec C Type Ra-R Engine for sale in the UK while looking for my next motor. Almost $9000.
I finally got a v9. Wais did a great job finding and shipping this motor.

Only thing broken was the oil fill. turbo , intake manifold, Even the timing components look brand new.

I really wanted a Spec c motor and all that, but, to be honest I'm really glad I went this route.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:26 PM   #5748
WhiteBgeye02
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screw that^^

as far as maf scaling and tuning since it allows more/less air into the engine when its active the maf scaling will change for the general low end driving.
that spool doesnt seem bad at all! on gas it will spool a little faster since exh gas temps are higher thus raising the exh gas energy and spinning the turbine faster. anyways with that spool number alone i think this will also be my turbo choice. i would expect you to hit 350whp at 10psi more with around the same wtq just past full spool prob at 3900ish rpms.

as far as cold start mine does the same thing. i messed with the decay tables and such but cant seem to get it so i went back to stockish numbers for enrichment and delay. idk what i will do about it but it happens for 20ish seconds and doesnt die so i will leave it for now. only going to be cold for another month or so max. if i park it in the 40* garage overnight then it only sputters every so often and then is fine.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:03 PM   #5749
WRXt4cy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Concillian View Post
AVCS working... let the tuning games begin! I thought I would need inverted NPS, so I had that map loaded. Once I thought everything was wired right and it still wasn't working, I thought to try the map without inverting NPS and it worked!

Unfortunately my Zeitronix Wideband isn't logging to my laptop. I hope I just messed up the ground or something when re-doing the AVCS wiring. I've never tuned AVCS, but it shouldn't affect my MAF scaling, right? I mean I scaled my MAF already when AVCS was zero, so I shouldn't need to adjust it?

10.5 psi wastegate boost is creeping to 12 at redline.
Stock ver8 map timing and stock ver8 AVCS the EFR6758 is hitting 10.5 ~3200 for 235 tq and 278 HP @ 7100 (airboy).
Previously, without AVCS, it wasn't creeping. Seems odd, since at high RPM it's full retard with / without AVCS. It was keeping 10.5 to redline for ~260-265... and of course wasn't spooling until 3700 with no AVCS.
So far it's spooling exactly like my 18g / 7cm on the EJ205... but at 10.5 psi with fully tuned timing, the 18g was 20 less tq. and ~35 HP lower.

This turbo is gonna have a really nice wide powerband once fully tuned. Clark will call it a peanut, but I don't care, it's the right size turbo for me.

The ver8 map doesn't have the OL fueling map for temperature compensation. My car runs like garbage at cold start while the O2 heats up. Sometimes I have to re-start it 2 or 3 times. Cranking maps are great, I had those worked out well for no TGV + E85 + ID1000 already on the EJ205. It fires up first turn even when the car is covered in frost, but the few seconds after start it's sputtering and dying, then the O2 sensor gets warm, it switches to CL and all is great. What maps are adjusted in the ver8 ROM for this? The WRX ROM was easy, I could just adjust the OL ECT vs. enrichment map, The ver8 doesn't have this map defined.

Just to be clear, you are saying that cranking is great and CL fueling is great once the ECU switches to that, but the warm up fueling, where the ECU is guessing until the o2 sensor is warmed up, is your issue?

If I understood that correctly, you need to focus on warm-up fueling mode (7), not OL fuel mode (10). Warm up fueling is controlled by the warm-up enrichment tables. You should have 14 of them. Focus on the Enrich 2 Initial & Enrich 3 Initial tables. There are 8 of them total. Try increasing the initial enrichment for the ECT where its having trouble. My guess is you aren't running rich enough to provide enough gasoline to burn while its too cold for the ethanol to burn well. You can also try reducing the decay if the enrichment it fading before CL fueling can take over but you probably won't need to.

Is your E85 blended down to 70% like most places do in the cold seasons? If so, you should be able to get to a point where you can fire up in a few cranks and hold a steady unassisted idle. If you are fueling up from a place that doesn't blend down to 70%, you might find your warm ups are rough no matter what tuning changes you make.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:57 PM   #5750
lukeskywrx
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What MAF? -Speed Density!

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WRXt4cy has the right idea, you want to work on your warmup fueling.

The main tables you want to work with are the warmup enrichment and the delay, this combo does a good job warming up with straight e85 in the winter (we dont get e70 here)

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