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Old 03-29-2013, 10:19 AM   #6101
JDM_Thompson914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25rsti
What does? How about a pic?

Fill out your profile.

What are you driving what did you swap in?
I got it, it was the ground that goes to the front right corner of the intake. Sorry I couldn't upload a pic from my iPad, I don't have an actual computer
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:59 PM   #6102
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Originally Posted by 25rsti View Post
I've read from Clark 0%. But who knows. He wrote that the V8s and V9s are so air tight.
You physically cannot have 0% leak down, the rings have gaps and the valves are not 100% air tight.

Depending on the sensitivity of your equipment the leak down may be below the repeatable measurement level. If you forgot your high school science lessons about accuracy vs. precision this would lead one to conclude that the result of 0% leak down is correct. If you truly had 0% leak down you could turn the motor over by hand to compress one of the cylinders and let it sit for a while like that with no loss of pressure, this is not the case in the real world. Even the best designed vacuum/pressure vessel systems in the world have some degree of leak back and your motor does not have the gas seals that these systems do.

Less than 10% leak down is fine, and slight deviations between cylinders could be due to a small carbon deposit interfering with the valve seating or any number of things.

Last edited by lukeskywrx; 03-29-2013 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:04 PM   #6103
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true that. we took my friends ej25 heads into a shop to ask a few questions and figured we would get the line, yeah you need valve work. WRONG. the guy basically said shine a flashlight into your heads and if u see no light then your good. when we tried it at home we saw light but after further inspections small bits of carbon were getting cause in the valve seat and hence the light could get thru. its a metal on metal seal. nothing special. it will amost always leak unless u have some super valve springs or something and perfect milling down to the 1/10000 of an inch.

i would have to agree. i have been told 8-10% max leakdown are good numbers.
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:13 PM   #6104
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I have tested many many many V7 and v8 engines. When they are good, you cannot rotate the crank past TDC as ZERO air leaks past. Both hands on a breaker bar and they will not go past. The gauge bottoms to 0. Typical engines are 2 to 3%. These motors are very very tight.
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:19 PM   #6105
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Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
I have tested many many many V7 and v8 engines. When they are good, you cannot rotate the crank past TDC as ZERO air leaks past. Both hands on a breaker bar and they will not go past. The gauge bottoms to 0. Typical engines are 2 to 3%. These motors are very very tight.
So whats the high side(when one would need to rebuilt) .....10%, 15%, 42%?
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:10 PM   #6106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner
I have tested many many many V7 and v8 engines. When they are good, you cannot rotate the crank past TDC as ZERO air leaks past. Both hands on a breaker bar and they will not go past. The gauge bottoms to 0. Typical engines are 2 to 3%. These motors are very very tight.

Any info in older motors? Or just v7/8
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:29 PM   #6107
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Delete sry
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:04 PM   #6108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
I have tested many many many V7 and v8 engines. When they are good, you cannot rotate the crank past TDC as ZERO air leaks past. Both hands on a breaker bar and they will not go past. The gauge bottoms to 0. Typical engines are 2 to 3%. These motors are very very tight.
This is the stupidest thing I have ever heard, A high torque aftermarket starter motor puts out at max 300 ft-lbs and that is enough to turn over a high compression 8cyl, much less a 4-cyl.

Lets use some of those number things and do a quick calculation assuming NO leak down.

From the area of the 92mm diameter piston you get ~9.6 sq inch and with a rough compression number of 120 PSI you get 1,150 pounds on the piston during a compression cycle. The stroke on our crank is 75mm or ~0.25 ft crank throw that ends up at 288 ft-lbs at the crank.

So with a 2ft breaker bar you only need 144 lbs to turn over the motor. So either you have total sissy bird arms or are just talking out of your ass.

Have you ever changed a timing belt? I am guessing not because you end up cranking over the motor by hand to align everything and it is not that hard. Stop telling people stupid things that are not true.

Last edited by lukeskywrx; 03-30-2013 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:00 PM   #6109
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I would say no more then 20%cylinder leakage is still ok. Any thing more than that and you have a problem. I also agree with Luke that no matter what you have air is always going to find a way out. There is always leakage past the rings and valves.
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:29 PM   #6110
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Good to know
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:35 PM   #6111
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Installed my V8, and it idles/runs great. However I keep getting a p1306 CEL. I checked my wiring AVCS thrice(IAP wiring kit), removed the passenger side AVCS banjo filter, and swapped the solenoids(driver to pass, vice versa) and still get the code. The last test leads me to believe it an electrical issue but I can not figure it out. Any help?
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:55 PM   #6112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheese tits View Post
Installed my V8, and it idles/runs great. However I keep getting a p1306 CEL. I checked my wiring AVCS thrice(IAP wiring kit), removed the passenger side AVCS banjo filter, and swapped the solenoids(driver to pass, vice versa) and still get the code. The last test leads me to believe it an electrical issue but I can not figure it out. Any help?
sounds like you might have AVCS pins reversed, search this thread for the cel code for the specific pins to swap
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:58 PM   #6113
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I had the same issue but it was due to the pins getting loose at the ecu plug. If all else fails check there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cheese tits View Post
Installed my V8, and it idles/runs great. However I keep getting a p1306 CEL. I checked my wiring AVCS thrice(IAP wiring kit), removed the passenger side AVCS banjo filter, and swapped the solenoids(driver to pass, vice versa) and still get the code. The last test leads me to believe it an electrical issue but I can not figure it out. Any help?
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:00 PM   #6114
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Which pins were loose? Do you recall? I swapped the 10,11 pins because they were incorrect per this searching this thread but still have the issue
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:07 PM   #6115
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The solenoid pins were loose at the ecu from when I let a friend move them with too large of a screw driver. He ended up expanding the female pin from the harness which did not allow for a good contact. Pull the solenoids and cycle the ignition to ensure that they are actuating. Also check the grounds on the motor. 1306 is specific to the passenger side if I recall correctly.


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Which pins were loose? Do you recall? I swapped the 10,11 pins because they were incorrect per this searching this thread but still have the issue
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:40 PM   #6116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vogun16 View Post
The solenoid pins were loose at the ecu from when I let a friend move them with too large of a screw driver. He ended up expanding the female pin from the harness which did not allow for a good contact. Pull the solenoids and cycle the ignition to ensure that they are actuating. Also check the grounds on the motor. 1306 is specific to the passenger side if I recall correctly.
Thanks man. This appears to have fixed my problem(after 15 miles, no CEL). I went back over every LH (pass side) pin I had moved and two of them looked like I had used a butter knife on them. Compressed them to get a tighter fit and viola!
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:57 PM   #6117
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Started my conversion Friday, haven't had a lot of time to work on it but it's moving along nicely. Didn't take pictures last night but I have the rear drivetrain in and the block and transmission separated. Tranny will be going in tonight, it's all ready to go.







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Old 04-01-2013, 03:17 PM   #6118
25rsti
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I was missing JDM talk.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:24 PM   #6119
WhiteBgeye02
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i know im going against the grain of the thread but its my turn to ask a dumb question. can anyone help me with the following
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...2#post39489432
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:26 PM   #6120
25rsti
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Replied.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:29 PM   #6121
WhiteBgeye02
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well thats just ****ing awesome. a 2 min install turns into a buying/selling bull**** fiasco!
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:00 PM   #6122
25rsti
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Trust me, been there. It does really suck though.
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:24 PM   #6123
JulianDelphiki
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Whats BS is that I have to either pay 900$ for a twinscroll Dp or wait 2 weeks for a 500$ one. That is upsetting. Im this close to taking the stock jdm dp and this crappy hks usdm dp and having a shop hack something up. That approach will most likely lead to the angles being off and it wont bolt up properly but Im going to run the risk.
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:26 PM   #6124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JulianDelphiki View Post
Whats BS is that I have to either pay 900$ for a twinscroll Dp or wait 2 weeks for a 500$ one. That is upsetting. Im this close to taking the stock jdm dp and this crappy hks usdm dp and having a shop hack something up. That approach will most likely lead to the angles being off and it wont bolt up properly but Im going to run the risk.
You should hear what the guys are saying that have been waiting since december for a TS downpipe :P

I ended up buying one of these and having a shop weld a 4 inch extension to bridge this jdm downpipe with my usdm catback.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-2007-IM...-/360448745289

Not a great vendor to work with, but the part fit good. Only problem was the o2 bung near the turbo was too close to the top bolt hole and I ended up having to use a bolt with a smaller head to clear the bung. Other than that it looks great, fit great and lines up perfect with the bracket under the car.
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:29 PM   #6125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JulianDelphiki View Post
Whats BS is that I have to either pay 900$ for a twinscroll Dp or wait 2 weeks for a 500$ one. That is upsetting. Im this close to taking the stock jdm dp and this crappy hks usdm dp and having a shop hack something up. That approach will most likely lead to the angles being off and it wont bolt up properly but Im going to run the risk.
You might be in luck... the Tomioka Racing DP that has been back ordered since I paid for one in early December are actually being shipped out this week from what I have been told. I can't say how many are coming to fill pre-paid orders and how many there will be for sale but you might check with some of the vendors that sell them. I ordered mine through MAPerformance.

Are you talking about the Tomioka racing DP or a different one? I've been waiting 4 months to have a nice 3" bolt on solution. Two weeks doesn't seem that bad...
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