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Old 04-17-2013, 09:08 AM   #6401
Vlad
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I never ran hybrid boost control, but with a Kinugawa adjustable actuator and a good spring, I really don't think a hybrid would add much.

My experience has been so far, that the stronger the spring, the smaller the per gear compensation needed.

This is all for twinscroll. I forget this minute if the V7 has per gear compensation in the ROM.
The twinscroll has a larger wastegate and needs more mechanical closing pressure, to oppose the larger exhaust gas gate-opening pressure.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:46 PM   #6402
lukeskywrx
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the per gear compensations came with the v8 ecu, I am running them on my car with a 18 psi WG actuator (The Carberry SD rom includes per gear comps as well). They are really nice for being able to hit 24 psi in 2nd gear without overboosting badly in 4 5 and 6th.

I usually use 3rd gear as my zero point then add positive WG compensation for 1st and 2nd while 4th and 5/6th get negative compensation. It does take a bit of trial and error to get setup but not too bad.

My 18 psi WG actuator with a ton of preload can manage to hold ~16-17 psi on the top end
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:14 PM   #6403
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Is the stock wg activator good enough? Or would a stronger one like avo offer be better. I think the avo activator operates at 15 psi.
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:28 PM   #6404
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The stock twinscroll actuator should be just above 12 PSI.
The Kinugawa is a very cost-effective upgrade. I run a 14PSI, but not on a IHI, on a Mitsubishi.

More is there to be had from a Stock IHI VF36 and 37, with a stronger spring actuator, also with adjustable preload, which the OEM does not have.
The AVO is quite more expensive than the Kinugawa, from what I recall and I'm not even sure they have a unit where you can swap springs, like the kinugawa.
I think Forge has an actuator, where the second port is actually functional and may be worth the extra $ to hook it up with a 3 port in an EWG actuator fashion, not that there's anything wrong with the kamak/kinugawa one.

Just be carefull with the VF 36/37. according to some, they don't live long time and with a strong actuator, while increasing performance, you will reduce their life even further.
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:55 PM   #6405
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I have an avo wg actuator on my vf30 I have it set to 18psi. I love it! Also running an ebcs.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:43 AM   #6406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xissix View Post
Got my P1507 fixed, the IACV was stuck. Idle is nice and smooth now and revs as it should, idles down as it should, but between 1000-2000 rpm it shakes/vibrates a lot more than it should I am pretty sure. No bad noises, just vibration. Don't notice it under load.

Will no AVCS working cause this? No other codes on top of the ones I posted above, runs good otherwise.
Figured out the vibration, was an out of balance flywheel. Not sure how that even happens, machined square, from a running car. Second flywheel was good, running much better now.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:27 PM   #6407
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its either that or it was warped somehow...

ur harness is in the mail^!
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:40 PM   #6408
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Possible I guess, didn't look like it got hot, no idea how it could have gotten bent/warped.

Awesome, thanks!
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:59 PM   #6409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xissix View Post
Possible I guess, didn't look like it got hot, no idea how it could have gotten bent/warped.

Awesome, thanks!
i just say warped because look how much vibration a bad rotor can cause. imagine your engine reving even faster. for a simple examble w/ a 25" tire it will rotate 850ish times a min if going 60mph. it shakes the car pretty hard when you hit the brakes going that fast if you have a bad rotor. now ur engine is idling at about that same rpm so a slight warpage or inbalance would cause the engine to flop around. i guess we will never know. def interesting tho. or something got behind the mating surface on install and cause it to seem off balance. small metal shaving would do it.
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:24 PM   #6410
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Quote:
Just be carefull with the VF 36/37. according to some, they don't live long time and with a strong actuator, while increasing performance, you will reduce their life even further.
Vlad, can you elaborate on reliability of the TS turbos when boosting over 20psi? Where did you find the comments on short-lived TS turbos?
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:52 PM   #6411
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This is not in general about TS turbos, but only in particular about the IHI VF series TS.
In general, even with the single scroll, the opinions about long term reliability are mixed.
Once you add that stronger actuator and you increase the boost holding at high engine speed and spool faster, you accelerate the turbine more and possibly run it close to the limit rpm-wise, definitely increase the load and wear on the bearings.

I was reading on scoobynet I think, a while ago about those guys experience with VF 36-37 at the track and some thought that they are more likely to need a rebuild (as much as the vf36 even can be rebuilt) after 60-80k miles and couple sessions.
Those guys were just buying replacement VF 36 and kept going. Seemed like their conclusions were based on already having seen several of them on the same car (they were buying used)

There was a video on youtube of a ej207 with a vf36 that was new. The guy shuts down and takes the camera under the hood. The VF36 rolled on those bearings audible for another minute, with the engine off.
My 36 did not do this when I had it.
May be some kind if a quick way to figure where in its life the 36 is.

I think the Mitsubishi and Garrett turbos are more reliable long term.
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:49 AM   #6412
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I know this is off topic and somewhat of a boot question but the power steering and throttle cables that are supposed to go with the 207 can be any one from a usdm WRX or STi correct? Or does it absolutely need to be from a JDM vehicle?
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:25 AM   #6413
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Just use the usdm power steering punp and AC compressor, throttle cables hook right up. You can use the Jdm alternator without any issues.
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:38 AM   #6414
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After what a freind told me who used to work at garret. It makes me wonder about there quality.
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:25 PM   #6415
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Oh you're right.
There was a thread couple years ago from a guy that used to work at Garrett.
It was really heartbreaking as the guy posted all the details of what happened lately, the outsourcing, the reduction in engineering crew, the focus on profit and don't worry so much about quality, yes, it's been posted.
This is after ownership changed, I think.
And currently I tend to think that the parts are not made in US anymore, maybe only part of the assembly work, maybe not even that anymore.
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:16 PM   #6416
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i think like everything else the turbo will last longer if you take care of your engine. aka more frequent oil changes and running oil cleaners to keep all passages clean. taking off the rear banjo bolt feed line and cleaning the filter in there once a year to keep plenty of oil flowing to the journal bearing vf37. i will agree that a ball bearing turbo should still spin once you get out of the car IF the car has just been driven and the oil is up to temp. thicker oil will slow the bearing roll down much quicker if you did it say on first startup. wearing out ball bearings also will reduce the after rotation once exh gas stops flowing.
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:09 PM   #6417
lukeskywrx
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My vf36 takes several minutes to spin down from normal operations, it also had zero shaft play either side to side or front back when I put the motor in.
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:33 PM   #6418
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Perfect timing on all this turbo talk... my VF37 is starting to smoke 10k into the swap

time to go rotated?
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Old 04-20-2013, 03:16 PM   #6419
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u sure its the turbo??? instead of going rotated get one of those new BW 62/58 turbos! then post results so i know how it performs!
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:54 PM   #6420
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hahaa Be the 207s guinea pig, please. =-)
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:35 AM   #6421
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Anyone done any testing with the OBDlink MX tool and the JDM ECU (AF481) and had any luck?

Loving this engine, 27mpg average over 300 miles, no AVCS yet, sooo smooth.

Last edited by Xissix; 04-21-2013 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:15 AM   #6422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
u sure its the turbo??? instead of going rotated get one of those new BW 62/58 turbos! then post results so i know how it performs!
Well, for the past one week... every time I come to a stop after the car has sufficiently warmed up, I've been noticing a slight burnt smell. At first I didn't see any smoke, but the last few times i noticed whitish smoke out of the hood scoop. When I looked in there, It was coming from the "turbo area". I don't have a heatshield, just a PTP turbo blanket... yet to take it off for a closer look.

Does this sound like the symptoms of seals going out?
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:15 PM   #6423
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Sounds like a pin hole in a coolant hose.
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:48 PM   #6424
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the banjo bolt coolant line at the top of the turbo tends to leak. and since it leaks onto the top of the turbo, it burns off immediately, so it just smells like burnt coolant, but rarely shows any signs of leaking. i'd check that banjo to see if it shows any white residue around it. if so, replace it, and you should be good.
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:52 PM   #6425
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From first hand experience with my friend's car, the BW 6258 EFR is going to spool just a hair faster than stock (vf 39/37) but hold quite a bit more in the top end. For example on E85 and on the stock turbo (vf39, 06 STI) he made 460tq and 360whp, but when he put in the 6258 on e85, he made the same wtq but 430whp... so yea HUGE powerband.

Personally I think the 6758 or 7163, that should be released soon, would suit the 207's head flow and revving capability a little better.
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