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Old 05-02-2013, 10:20 PM   #6526
Psychoreo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JulianDelphiki View Post
I think my cold start idle problem may be fuel related(maybe the filter) because I just went out to start it and before I did, I primed the fuel pump 7-8 times and the hiccup was significantly shorter and not as pronounced. Ill change the filter tommorrow.

Yeah, I thought mine was suspension related also because it would squeak over bumps and when I got in and out of the car(I only weigh 150lbs). If I wasnt looking for a preturbo exhaust leak I would have never guessed the uppipe/turbo bracket was causing the squeak.
Yea that sounds exactly like mine. So it was the bracket to the block connection? That's going to be a pain in the balls....
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:31 PM   #6527
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The squeak for me was so annoying. To narrow it down, push on the turbo like I did in that video. I didn't actually touch the turbo bracket, just took the header and uppipe and downpipe all the way off(to replace the gaskets) and when I torqued them back down the squeak was gone.
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:44 PM   #6528
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I'll try it out. I really don't feel like dropping the header/up pipe... Although that's a good excuse to order new gaskets from grimmspeed...
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:14 PM   #6529
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I have the same cold start issue. Vacuum is low then goes up to about 18-19 when warm. The headers do sound kind of tinny.
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:53 AM   #6530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 666stars View Post
I have the same cold start issue. Vacuum is low then goes up to about 18-19 when warm. The headers do sound kind of tinny.
The low vac at cold start is normal, the iacv is doing its thing till its warm.
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:26 PM   #6531
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Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
The low vac at cold start is normal, the iacv is doing its thing till its warm.
That's what I thought so too... isn't it to raise the oil pressure so the it quickly lubricates all little corners of the motor, before you drive off. i know I had that on my EJ205 also. I just wait 30 seconds and start driving slowly... and within a minute idle is back to normal.
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:26 PM   #6532
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The motor physically cannot pull as much vacuum while cold, all the ring gaps are open as far as they can be and the car is trying to keep RPMs up in the warmup range so it has to open up the IACV increasing manifold pressure.

My manifold pressure usually starts at 6.5-7 psia when cold starting and is around 5 psia at warm idle.

Those with cold start issues are you running aftermarket fuel injectors? if so your cranking and warmup tables might need some attention.
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:38 PM   #6533
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Originally Posted by lukeskywrx View Post
The motor physically cannot pull as much vacuum while cold, all the ring gaps are open as far as they can be and the car is trying to keep RPMs up in the warmup range so it has to open up the IACV increasing manifold pressure.

My manifold pressure usually starts at 6.5-7 psia when cold starting and is around 5 psia at warm idle.

Those with cold start issues are you running aftermarket fuel injectors? if so your cranking and warmup tables might need some attention.
Stock injectors for me. I changed the fuel filter even though mine was only 3months old. I will report results tomorrow with a video.
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:28 PM   #6534
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I have an 09 wrx that I'd like to swap a v9 or v10 ej207 into. If I get one with the ecu, it's pretty much plug and play, right?
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Old 05-04-2013, 03:35 PM   #6535
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Take a look at my ej207 info thread, for some info about V10 and GRB.
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Old 05-04-2013, 04:22 PM   #6536
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Take a look at my ej207 info thread, for some info about V10 and GRB.
I just saw that, thanks for all of the info! I'm looking at getting a v9 or v10 longblock with ecu, turbo, and intercooler. This should be plug and play, then tune, right?
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:16 PM   #6537
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The GRB WRX has single AVCS, I'm almost sure.


You have two options, radically different:
1. Go back to a GDB engine, a V9 by example. The only thing that makes sense is to let your ECU run this engine. Your car is CANbus, so all modules have to be left in place. I think you should be able to get help from the guys in this thread that got the EJ255/57 ECU's to run a V7-V9 and use your AVCS solenoids and cam sensors.
The crank sensor could be the same.
You have to hope that the TGV software CEL deletion takes care of this to where the canbus system is ok with it, I think it will be.
Your car is not automatic, right?

2. Go to a V10 engine
So in addition to what I describe that you have to do for the Sti, you'd have to do exhaust avcs wiring, similar with what we do here with non avcs cars, wiring them for intake avcs.
Then swap ECU's and try to follow the path I have in the thread.
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:35 PM   #6538
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My car is a 5 speed manual. The GRB WRX has single AVCS. Just the exhaust side, I think.

I'll likely have do a TGV delete, and have the car tuned to compensate for this.

Probably a dumb question, but I haven't seen it anywhere (maybe I overlooked it?), what exhaust do I run? My current turbo is a VF52.
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:07 PM   #6539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peglegsteve View Post
My car is a 5 speed manual. The GRB WRX has single AVCS. Just the exhaust side, I think.

I'll likely have do a TGV delete, and have the car tuned to compensate for this.

Probably a dumb question, but I haven't seen it anywhere (maybe I overlooked it?), what exhaust do I run? My current turbo is a VF52.
I would recommend doing lots of research before committing to a non-drop in swap. You don't want to get over your head and end up with a car that doesn't run.

Single AVCS is on the intake cams so you would be looking for a V7-9 swap and you would be needing to swap cams, sensors, throttle, ect. from your current car so you can run it. You can get around any TGV issues you might have by swapping over your entire intake manifold to the JDM longblock.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:31 PM   #6540
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The cold start hiccup/miss is gone. I changed/cleaned the iacv gasket, and replaced the fuel filter. My recommendation to anyone experiencing that issue is to spend the 27$ and 1 hour to do those two things. And my fuel filter was only 3 months old.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:14 PM   #6541
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I hear the "hiccups" if I do a cold start when it's cold out maybe 40s and below (I'm guessing) or when the car has been sitting. My bugeye has been sitting since last Wednesday morning and started today and it sounded cammed. I was like cool! Then I thought of a misfire and wanted To die lol.. All good though, just the car being retarded.. I'm also in NYC so its been 50s at night and 60-70s daytime
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:32 AM   #6542
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what weight synthetic oil should I put in my V7 EJ207. Its being installed today
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:36 AM   #6543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline1785 View Post
what weight synthetic oil should I put in my V7 EJ207. Its being installed today
People seem to like Rotella T6, which is also on sale at advance auto this week.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:42 AM   #6544
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People seem to like Rotella T6, which is also on sale at advance auto this week.
thanks. I'll look into that but what weight? 5w-30 10w-30?
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:51 AM   #6545
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thanks. I'll look into that but what weight? 5w-30 10w-30?
5w-40
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:55 PM   #6546
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thanks. I'll look into that but what weight? 5w-30 10w-30?
T6 only comes in one weight, I can't remember what it is off the top of my head.

Which reminds me, I just did an oil change with an extended interval of about 6000 miles. The engine burned through just over a qt during this period which is much better than my high mileage 205 that was in there.

Next oil change I'll be doing a UOA to see what's going on.
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:07 PM   #6547
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Originally Posted by redline1785 View Post
what weight synthetic oil should I put in my V7 EJ207. Its being installed today
I use Castrol synthetic 10 30 in my v7 and jt doesn't burn any oil even after 5k oil changes and I think it's cheaper than rotella too. My only advice Is stay away from mobile one and you should be good. Also some people say they burn oil every 3 to 5k miles on v7 but I'm at 120,000 km on my motor and it doesn't burn a drop of oil.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:28 AM   #6548
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I've also been using rotella t6, my 207 goes the entire 5,000 mile oil cycle without burning any oil. The 205 I had before was an oil user, even after fixing the typical head cover gaskets and oil cooler gasket. It had 190,000 miles when it finally spun a bearing, it had lots of piston slap, RIP.

Last edited by D-Rodman; 05-08-2013 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:44 AM   #6549
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:09 PM   #6550
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are both sets of AVCS cams operational?
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