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Old 06-14-2013, 08:12 PM   #6876
iNfEk
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change the rear main seal on your engine and the tail shaft seal on your transmission before it goes in. change various shifter bushings since it's out and easier to do then. throw out bearing and pilot bearing if it didn't come with your clutch. brake fluid, don't want to start and can't finish. gear fluid.

shouldn't the fork be apart of the transmission?
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:58 PM   #6877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
change the rear main seal on your engine and the tail shaft seal on your transmission before it goes in. change various shifter bushings since it's out and easier to do then. throw out bearing and pilot bearing if it didn't come with your clutch. brake fluid, don't want to start and can't finish. gear fluid.

shouldn't the fork be apart of the transmission?

the fork and slave cylinder came with the jdm trans but according to the trans FAQ i need a 2004 sti fork and slave cylinder...
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:30 AM   #6878
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if the transmission is from a 2006 V9 JDM Sti, you may be able to run it on your existing R160.
The JDM 6 speed driveshaft is a bit of mistery. The USDM driveshafts could have been much heavier overall, all along.
Years ago, as the carbon fiber driveshafts became big in US, guys overseas tried them too.
To their surprise, the factory one was quite light and of smaller diameter than the USDM.
Where I am going with this, is that you may not even have to replace the companion flange of the R160 that you currently have, in order to run that 6 speed with your existing differential.
So a cheap way is to stop at the rear diff. When it lets go, rebuild it with a cusco and then you're done.

If you go with the R180, then you have to start thinking about what you will do:
-Hybrid axles?
-Sti axles, but then you have to go to rear Sti hubs, which means that you need rear brembos.
The V9 you have has longer rear lateral arms, longer axles and is 5x114.

The rear axles also are far from being one-fits-all, amongst Sti's.
Look at the factory repair manual for the USDM Sti. They have a table of rear axles for your common USDM Sti. They are not even of the same length left-right, I don't think.
There is a notch coding, I believe, that identifies what is needed.

There are advantages of doing a full 5x114 conversion, but then you're going to need suspension too.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:50 AM   #6879
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You do not need to change the fork or slave that came with the trans, the flange on the jdm driveshaft is for the r180 you will need to change the flange on the diff if you're running the r160, or get an auto wrx driveshaft.
I went the hybrid axle route, local shop made me axles for 200$ and so i run the r180, its a muuuch better diff... I had no desire for brembos, they have their place but i only track my car maybe 2-3 times a year, and i can lock my wheels up perfectly fine with my current brakes... I might upgrade the rears to lgt ones though to take some load off the fronts
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:25 PM   #6880
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Still getting a rich CEL and running 13.4-14.3 afr during idle and cruise but perfect at WOT(11.2-4). Gas mileage went from 27mpgs to 15mpgs. Cleaned my air filter and maf, and checked for vacuum leaks. Maybe the coolant temp sensor? Leaky injector? Anybody?
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:58 PM   #6881
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front o2 sensor^ if it burns out it prob wont throw a code but its scaling will be off and might then just run off maf sensor scaling which could be rich. wot has nothing to do with cruising which is why I would check into the front 02.
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:33 PM   #6882
JulianDelphiki
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
front o2 sensor^ if it burns out it prob wont throw a code but its scaling will be off and might then just run off maf sensor scaling which could be rich. wot has nothing to do with cruising which is why I would check into the front 02.

Forgot to mention that was the first thing I changed out. Purchased a denso O2 a week ago and installed it with no change. Any other suggestions? Doing the plugs today.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:24 AM   #6883
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did mikey mess with the closed loop fueling at all? that drastic of mpg drop means something mechanical changed rapidly.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:38 AM   #6884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
did mikey mess with the closed loop fueling at all? that drastic of mpg drop means something mechanical changed rapidly.
Nope. I changed the coolant temp sensor and the plugs and it went back to a steady 14.3 at idle/cruise. I was looking at the CL target and it was set to 14.47 (stock value) and I changed it 14.7. Now I see 14.8-15.0 at cruise and idle. Hopefully it stays there.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:11 PM   #6885
95ONE
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I'm curious which Spark plugs you used.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:14 PM   #6886
JulianDelphiki
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Ngk 2667s
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:59 PM   #6887
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I saw this oil cooler from a spec c today. Is there anything missing or is this the complete package and ready to be installed?

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Old 06-17-2013, 08:09 PM   #6888
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a sandwhich plate and some zip ties to hold everything in place. done!
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:17 AM   #6889
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It's meant to fasten to the JDM bumper beam, you will have to fabricate a support.
It's meant for a V8, if you have a bugeye, you have to modify the passenger headlight bracket.
The bottom hoses have been cut and are meant for the Spec C oil cooler adapter hard lines.
You can connect them to a sandwhich adapter, use good clamps on that rubber and make sure it has slack, You're already missing 2 inches of those hoses, one of which is slack, to account for the engine tilting.

And do you really want a used engine cooler? I sold mine, kept the conduit riser and adapted a brand new CXA that looks pretty much identical to thisone.
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:15 PM   #6890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
It's meant to fasten to the JDM bumper beam, you will have to fabricate a support.
It's meant for a V8, if you have a bugeye, you have to modify the passenger headlight bracket.
The bottom hoses have been cut and are meant for the Spec C oil cooler adapter hard lines.
You can connect them to a sandwhich adapter, use good clamps on that rubber and make sure it has slack, You're already missing 2 inches of those hoses, one of which is slack, to account for the engine tilting.

And do you really want a used engine cooler? I sold mine, kept the conduit riser and adapted a brand new CXA that looks pretty much identical to thisone.


I have a saab 9-2x so I'll have to consider location of the cooler. What do you recommend Vlad? I know I can buy a new $50 small radiator to work with oil but what about the lines? Do you suggest I scrap this whole idea and make my oil cooler setup with my own custom lines?

My car is a 99% daily driver however I autocross more than a dozen times a season and visit the track a couple times. I'm going to install an oil temp gauge first to judge whether or not its needed, but I thought I'd ask before it gets sold to someone else.

Last edited by 2JZ; 06-18-2013 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:50 PM   #6891
maximus88
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I remember there being post regarding JDM ecu serial numbers. I searched for it but I can't find it. can anyone help me out?

the Ecu I have is

22611AF480
112000-7544
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:15 PM   #6892
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That's a V7 ecu.
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:57 PM   #6893
Vlad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2JZ View Post
I have a saab 9-2x so I'll have to consider location of the cooler. What do you recommend Vlad? I know I can buy a new $50 small radiator to work with oil but what about the lines? Do you suggest I scrap this whole idea and make my oil cooler setup with my own custom lines?

My car is a 99% daily driver however I autocross more than a dozen times a season and visit the track a couple times. I'm going to install an oil temp gauge first to judge whether or not its needed, but I thought I'd ask before it gets sold to someone else.
I have an article on my blog about the oil radiator. You can just click under my username on the left.
If you are not going to install this in the factory JDM location, you have very little use for it.
To be more clear, I did install it (mocked it up), with the USDM body and then decided against ever starting the engine with an used oil radiator (it was never connected in to my car's oil system.
I kept the conduit riser.
The radiator will not over-cool the oil. With the Spec C set-up, it does have a thermostat at the pickup location, above the oil filter.

To run this right, you would need that JDM thermostatic pickup, then a 2008+ WRX (non-Sti) water pump.
Then you delete the coolant-oil cooler and install this.
Then you adapt the riser , because it is designed to run behind the passenger headlight, by the powersteering can and pass under the headlight, to the radiator support.
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:22 PM   #6894
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Sounds like running an aftermarket thermostatic sand which plate and oil cooler kit may just be easier especially since it has oil temp and pressure provisions already instead of fussing with the OEM JDM one.. What do you think vlad
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:09 PM   #6895
JulianDelphiki
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Running rich at idle/cruise again. It seems to only happen when I drive for longer periods. Also along with the p0172, I threw a p1308(bank 2 avcs). Again I changed the O2, spark plugs and coolant temp sensor and cleaned the Maf and air filter.
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Old 06-20-2013, 04:45 AM   #6896
iNfEk
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what 3 bar MAP sensor are you guys using with your version 7 EJ207 with 16 bit ECU?

I read on the rom raider forum that the omni power 3 bar will work however the end result with be higher than normal idle 1300RPM to be exact.

I'd like to security of knowing my ECU will be able to recognize the additional boost pressure at it's stock MAP limit of 22PSI and if I over boost that my ECU got my back LOL

AMS said they should be able to tune out my boosting/bucking issues and as mentioned in my MAF thread hoping it's just MAF scaling and Fuel trim adjustments...

Also, where is the cheapest (reliable) place I can get a reliable MAP. people MURDER me on shipping

EDIT: I know Clark prefers the AEM 3.5 Bar Sensor. Clark, if you're reading this do you know the calibration settings for this MAP sensor for JDM ECU 16bit -- TIA!

Last edited by iNfEk; 06-20-2013 at 05:48 AM.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:19 AM   #6897
Vlad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2JZ View Post
Sounds like running an aftermarket thermostatic sand which plate and oil cooler kit may just be easier especially since it has oil temp and pressure provisions already instead of fussing with the OEM JDM one.. What do you think vlad
I care a lot about details, if you don't, you can just buy a good kit and call it a day.
A fast way to buy a good kit is to look on ebay co uk.

I would get a good cooler and not too big. Consider deleting the coolant circuit, because you don't need it and because it's lowering your oil filter to the ground, now that you have an adapter.
Watch for vibration issues and give the hoses enough slack to compensate for the engine tilting under load. Don't get too close to the headers and try to have a shield over the headers, so if worse comes to worse, the oil can't spill over the red hot headers...

I would pay for good braided hoses.
I noticed that CXA seems to have machine crimped braided good material hoses.
You can buy top notch materials and build them yourself, but then all that you have preventing your connections from bursting and your car from emptying it's oil, is how good of a technique you had in crimping those AN connectors. They may be tight cold, but not so tight when your headers become red-hot.
This is why I'd prefer to get pre-crimped hoses.
There is a place that uses the good materials and custom makes your hoses with machine crimping, but then those become really expensive.

My OEM setup is running good for 2 years now.
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:09 AM   #6898
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I was the one who found out the issues with the Omni on the 16 Bit ecu. It was a PITA to find this out as who would have thought the map sensor would have caused an idle control issue. As A result, I would not use that brand on the car. The stock sensor is fine for many many people. But I do use the AEM 3.5 bar sensor when needed.

Only use the Silver 3.5 bar, The brass 3.5 bar is not rated for methanol/Ethanol and will fail.

Mult = 12.499
Offset = -6.246

C
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:43 AM   #6899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
I was the one who found out the issues with the Omni on the 16 Bit ecu. It was a PITA to find this out as who would have thought the map sensor would have caused an idle control issue. As A result, I would not use that brand on the car. The stock sensor is fine for many many people. But I do use the AEM 3.5 bar sensor when needed.

Only use the Silver 3.5 bar, The brass 3.5 bar is not rated for methanol/Ethanol and will fail.

Mult = 12.499
Offset = -6.246

C
Thank you. I didn't know there was two. I've only seen the silver one? Is that one a generic?

I am at the border of recognized boost. Safety and longevity is my goal.

Ill probably pick up the AEM 3.5 and the Cobb bracket
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:09 PM   #6900
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Both are AEM.

C
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