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Old 09-27-2010, 01:01 AM   #1051
treystoys
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I second or third the 3076 route! I just posted a virtual dyno thread in proven power bragging if you guys want to check it out...93 octane numbers in the 415whp area, super flat 315+wtq, and 23psi on the street by 4600 spinning to 8200, its plenty good daily also! I'll gohead and say it though as always avcs is a must!!...lol

Trey
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:04 AM   #1052
Clark Turner
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Sounds good Trey. I loved it when I had that setup. Mine was making 400 to 500 depending on fuel and how much nitrous I sprayed. LOL. The Road dynos are not accurate. But you probably already knew that I bet your is in that ballpark though man!

C
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:32 AM   #1053
Mayrun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LIQUIDSK8S View Post
Here is a 2.0 with supporting mods on the LM450-S60 making 450bhp with 1.7 bar by 3700rpm.

http://bbs.scoobynet.com/showpost.ph...&postcount=315
Sorry to disappoint, but it says my06 (ej257) not a ej207.
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:24 AM   #1054
OppositeLock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayrun View Post
Sorry to disappoint, but it says my06 (ej257) not a ej207.
It's a MY06 JDM Spec-C 2.0L. Impressive too.
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Old 09-27-2010, 12:22 PM   #1055
Clark Turner
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That graph posted showing 450 is CRANK HP.

C
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Old 09-27-2010, 12:34 PM   #1056
glutetoot
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I'm really wanting to do the ej25 build but think i will just stay stock
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:08 PM   #1057
treystoys
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Quote:
Sounds good Trey. I loved it when I had that setup. Mine was making 400 to 500 depending on fuel and how much nitrous I sprayed. LOL. The Road dynos are not accurate. But you probably already knew that I bet your is in that ballpark though man!
Hey Clark...yeah, the numbers overall really don't intrest me that much, I already know what the car is capable of, its just cool to look at something other than rows and columns while logging and tuning...lol...my car hasn't seen a real dyno since back when I still had the 205 with a 16g and was still running the stock tranny...lol...long time ago with reguards to different setups!

Trey
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:09 PM   #1058
LIQUIDSK8S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
That graph posted showing 450 is CRANK HP.

C
Yeah, I marked it as BHP and mentioned it earlier to be prolly 360-370whp. Not bad considering how fast it spools, and it pull solid to near 8k. Not the power of the GT30R of course, but better for a DD IMO.
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Old 10-03-2010, 04:54 AM   #1059
typerv4
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If you look right at the end of the thread that same car with some tweaking is doing 460 at the engine.

Which works out to be 365whp


Litchfield make another +50hp bigger turbo that im guessing is a 3076r
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Old 10-13-2010, 11:42 AM   #1060
LIQUIDSK8S
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Just picked up a Tactrix cable and was wondering which opensource program you guys recommend using, I know nada. I'm not going to do any tuning myself, just logs to see if the AVCS are running and to post the logs for others to comment on.
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Old 10-13-2010, 11:55 AM   #1061
Clark Turner
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Download Romraider. Email me and I will send you the XML file so you log the correct items.

C
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Old 10-13-2010, 02:26 PM   #1062
LIQUIDSK8S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
Download Romraider. Email me and I will send you the XML file so you log the correct items.

C
Awesome, thanks for the help. Now to find a cheap laptop to log with, or use a friends for right now. Looking at the Dell Mini.
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:10 PM   #1063
fellstar
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Still waiting on my swap to be finished, very excited.
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:00 PM   #1064
MConte05
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I got my AVCS wiring kit, and a walbro 255lph pump, getting ready for my swap too.
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Old 10-22-2010, 02:34 AM   #1065
Krang
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Yes I searched, most results were referring to the oil pan.

Hey, I'm trying to decide on what oil I should run in my 207 v8. Can I run the same 'ol Shell T60 5w-40 I ran in my 205? Currently, it is filled with m1 5w-30 ( Yes I know its bad ) because I had a bunch lying around and was planning on changing oil after 500 miles after the initial startup to make sure anything random that got caught was removed asap.

So, question is. Rotella T 5w-40 okay to run in 207? If not, what would the suggested oil be.
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Old 10-22-2010, 03:46 AM   #1066
lil'redwagon
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I run rotella 5w40 in my version 8 ej207. 12K, 25psi, and no problems so far!
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Old 10-22-2010, 03:59 AM   #1067
Krang
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Great! I loved the oil and wanted to keep using it. Changing it tomorrow!

Also, my oil pressure gauge tells me I should run a heavier weight. I only have 25psi at idle, where I had 30 at idle in my 205. However, I maintain 90psi at anything over 3.5k. Either way, the heavier weight would give me peace of mind!
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Old 10-22-2010, 04:08 AM   #1068
iNfEk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krang
Great! I loved the oil and wanted to keep using it. Changing it tomorrow!

Also, my oil pressure gauge tells me I should run a heavier weight. I only have 25psi at idle, where I had 30 at idle in my 205. However, I maintain 90psi at anything over 3.5k. Either way, the heavier weight would give me peace of mind!
Hey Ryan. I run amsoil in my 207 with no problems. I run 10w30 in mine cause it doesn't get that cold here. I was thinking about a heavier weight as well but wasn't sure about the affects of it on the tolerances...etc on such a young engine. If it had higher mileage. I'd probably increase the weight.
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Old 10-22-2010, 10:16 AM   #1069
LIQUIDSK8S
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I'm running German Castrol 0w30 in mine, runs great.
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Old 10-22-2010, 11:53 AM   #1070
scoobystas
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anyone else with the T6 and oil pressure gauge seeing any issues of low oil pressure at idle? I needs to get mees a pressure gauge!
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Old 10-22-2010, 12:05 PM   #1071
Clark Turner
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5 30 in in winter and 10 40 in summer is great on this motor. Skip the marketing oils. Amsoil, Redline, ect.. Alot of them are lighter then the bottle states. Redline is known to take these motors out.

Putting M1 in this motor even then you knew not to do it makes you the nasioc fool of the week

never put 0 weight oil in these motors. The oil pump pressure valve is not set for this light weight oil.

C
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Old 10-22-2010, 02:02 PM   #1072
iNfEk
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thanks clark for the info. I get the oil cheap so It isn't a thing. I'll change to 10w40 after I use up whatever I have left of my 10w30.
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Old 10-22-2010, 02:08 PM   #1073
Clark Turner
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Any good oil like castrol, penzoil or valvoline is just fine in the 10-40 weight. 5w if you get cold winters. I have seen redline take out rod bearings. I have seen M1 take out rod bearings. I have seen Neos destroy motors. Motul is good stuff but its expensive.

Rotela T is good for a built race motor with loose tolorances. The main reason is that it has a suspension agent in the oil to keep all that soot and carbon from circulating. Its diesel oil and diesels make alot of soot and turn the oil black. Its not a good choice for a super tight JDM 207 motor. There is no blowby and the pistons are super tight in the bore.

We have been running castrol synthetic with good results. When we check the oil, Its almost never down. The oil looks clean and you can get it anywhere. One sure fire way to decide an oil is not right is when it disapears.... If you check your oil and its down a half Q on that super expensive race oil, That should be a red flag.

C
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Old 10-22-2010, 02:39 PM   #1074
LIQUIDSK8S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
never put 0 weight oil in these motors. The oil pump pressure valve is not set for this light weight oil.

C
Clark,

I thought GC Castrol 0w30 was the exception in that it is heavier than most 5w30 and on par with 10w40 in terms of shear over it's life. The UOA's have always been awesome for it, and I haven't had any issues with it, not burning/losing any. I know a lot of the EJ257's run it and speak strongly about it and the tests back it up, but that's the 257. Did you find a problem running it in the EJ207?

Also, wanted to see what you guys think about my pressure/temp readings.

At idle I see 1.2-1.4bar when warmed up, and 6 bar when I get on it. Oil temps settle in between 210-220F. Another thing I noticed with mine after the tune is that the ECU is pulling boost and it won't go over 10psi. I think this is due to my turbo not having heatshields and the intercooler/duct not being optimal and causing a LOT of heatsoak. My engine bay temps are really high and my guess is that the MAF/intercooler are getting too hot and the ECU is saying "no no". I already have plans in order to do turbo blanket/wrap/gold reflector/intercooler change to fix this problem. Touching my intercooler after a 30min drive is fairly hot..... like pulling a hot plate out of a dishwasher ..... you can hold it but don't want to . And it stays this hot even 2hrs later.

Let me know if my thoughts are wrong on this being the issue. I still need to pull logs, next time I'm in town I will log and post them.
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Old 10-22-2010, 02:47 PM   #1075
Clark Turner
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If that oil is working for you then run it. I woud never put 0 weight oil in these things. But if you have good presure your probably ok.

You need to def get those temps down man. You need the proper IC gasket and plate to isolate it. and you can gold insulate the end tank. NEVER run without the heat shield on the turbo. I see so many people make this mistake. That turbine glows red when full throttle and is blasting the IC with heat.

C
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