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Old 12-24-2010, 01:02 AM   #1176
wrx surfwagon
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so i may have missed it somewhere but i searched and read (almost)all of this thread. What are people making on the hta 68 on the 207? Also, has anyone in a bind ran one with a td04? sorry if this is posted somewhere else, if this is repetitive directions to an appropriate thread will be fine. thanks
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:12 PM   #1177
nedalrabadi
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what custom piston/ rod choice is the best for an ej207 v8 knowing that i want to keep the standard size.
i have so many reasons that make me favor the CP-carrilo (piston-rod) choice one of them is i could have any C/R i want
so , what is the C/R on the ej207 v8 ?
i don't want any p.s (fab. done to the block or the head , that's why i'm going for the tomei cams and standard size head work ) any way my target is 400whp on a daily driver
my other questions are . . .
is there a standard size forged or billet crank which would be a direct fit in the block without fab. work in the block ?

what turbo would get me to my 400whp goal an HKS GT2830 or HKS GT3037 ?
plus how do they compare to the GT3071 and GT3076 ?
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:35 PM   #1178
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That sounds like a horrible combination. The Tomei cams have no lift, THe CP pistons are not the best choice, and both turbos you mentioned wont get you anywhere near that much power.

C
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Old 01-01-2011, 07:23 PM   #1179
nedalrabadi
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hey clark thanks for the reply merry Christmas and happy new year (i'm a fan of your posts )
any way then what do you recommend for internals and a turbo ?
i'm going crazy looking for an answer for both and even head work
but the issue is fabrication and machining isn't state of the art over in my country so i want drop in parts no head or block fab my friend .. . ..
and what combination do recommend ?

thank you very much . i can't wait to finally hear an answer lol to these questions lol
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:23 AM   #1180
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I would leave the engine stock for that kind of power output. I would not change a thing.

C
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:32 AM   #1181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
I would leave the engine stock for that kind of power output. I would not change a thing.

C
Why, what turbo, whats the rationale behind the turbo yadda yadda....

That response is about as encompassing as 'I like turtles'.
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:38 AM   #1182
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You do not need to go inside these motors for 400hp. Its a waste of money and time. His list including ****ty rattle trap pistons, Decent rods and aftermarket cams that have no lift. Considering he has no faith in any machine shop in his country even reinforces the fact that he should get a good running stock 207 and leave it alone.

Those turbos are a horrible choice. The 28 has a T to small turbine which will limit him to 300hp. The 3037 hks is an old turbo that spools slow.

The GT3071 is a good choice but will be MAXED out at 400hp and he might not make it. The 3076 will get him there no problem.

C
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:06 PM   #1183
nedalrabadi
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so HKS 3037 is not as fast or capable as the 3076 ?
i need more explanation please because i thoght that they are basically the same , but i guess i was wrong
i'm not lookin for more than 400-420whp without nos i just want to break the 400 barrier
i'm not looking for 450whp i was looking for the gt3076r and it says 500 hp and some even say 550hp
plus which to trust HKS,FULLRACE,ATP
i know you had good experience with ATP
but is it the best there is ? i know HKS makes some great parts most of my car parts are HKS i'm surprised it's not the best lol
so what do u think Clark ?
as for the piston rod choice ,
carillo is a good choice but i was shocked that cp isn't, fyi
i don't trust the gas here that much aether , knock problems at that power range you know what that means , just for the peace of mind i don't mind spending the extra money , but what is the best choice out there Clark what would you choose if money was no issue . what would you get ?
p.s i might run nos

and what would be a good cam choice that would keep the AVCS i don't want something radical i'v looked the HKS Valcon Plus V Cam Kit PRO (i like gadgets in my dash lol) but i thought i would ask you i mean after all you would know more stuff than i would .
here is the link
http://www.hks-power.co.jp/db/produc...LN=EN&N_ID=432
the thing is i'm looking for drop in parts with the least alteration and fab work
i know i wrote a news paper for you to read but i read most of your posts and i thought i wish that this dude could help my with my build too bad i don't live in the US permanently lol

Last edited by nedalrabadi; 01-03-2011 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:31 PM   #1184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
You do not need to go inside these motors for 400hp. Its a waste of money and time. His list including ****ty rattle trap pistons, Decent rods and aftermarket cams that have no lift. Considering he has no faith in any machine shop in his country even reinforces the fact that he should get a good running stock 207 and leave it alone.

Those turbos are a horrible choice. The 28 has a T to small turbine which will limit him to 300hp. The 3037 hks is an old turbo that spools slow.

The GT3071 is a good choice but will be MAXED out at 400hp and he might not make it. The 3076 will get him there no problem.

C
forget what i wrote there
i think i'm going for the ATP but what is the limits of the two units ?
which one to choose ? the GT3071R or GT3076R ?
would the std crank and the transmission be able to handle that much of power?
and what's for a piston/rod combo ?
plus which cam shaft choice is most appropriate to take full advantage of the best possible wide power band ?
and thank you
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Old 01-05-2011, 06:12 PM   #1185
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atp3071 about 300 to 350hp. atp 3076 about 330 to 380. Stock motor is fine for these turbos. 6mt takes the power fine. Kelford cams work find but need a remap of ECU AVCS.

C
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Old 01-05-2011, 06:17 PM   #1186
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I'll step in for Clark momentarily, he's pretty familiar with my set up anyhow. I run a stock ver 8 long block with a garret 3076 at 23psi on pump gas. I run a usdm oe 5spd with 4.44 fd, car is driven daily and raced occassionally. Car makes in the neighborhood of 420whp, and runs 11s in the quarter mile. Its a fun set up, and makes full boost in 3rd gear by 4600rpm. I wouldn't change anything on the car, its been set up like this for almost 2 years now. Prior to this I ran a stock location 3071 which Clark tuned for me. It ran great, but feel off above 7k. I put maybe 6k miles on it with the 3071, then switched to the rotated 76, with a bit of help from Clark, I tuned the new set up, and haven't looked back since.

Trey
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:52 PM   #1187
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Just ordered my Version 8 Spec-C engine. Can't wait.

Quick question though. Anyone know what kind of oil cooler I can use? Evidently this one already has an oil cooler, but since it is part of the radiator/front clip assembly, it will not be included in the engine package. Would a cheap Summit Racing cooler work? Looks like an OEM brand new one is in the neighborhood of $700-800.

If I am using this car primarily for DD'ing and some Auto/RallyX, is an oil cooler really necessary? Possible to remove it from the engine?
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Old 01-06-2011, 08:06 PM   #1188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MConte05 View Post
Just ordered my Version 8 Spec-C engine. Can't wait.

Quick question though. Anyone know what kind of oil cooler I can use? Evidently this one already has an oil cooler, but since it is part of the radiator/front clip assembly, it will not be included in the engine package. Would a cheap Summit Racing cooler work? Looks like an OEM brand new one is in the neighborhood of $700-800.

If I am using this car primarily for DD'ing and some Auto/RallyX, is an oil cooler really necessary? Possible to remove it from the engine?
for DD use you don't need an external cooler. Your oil would take longer to get up to temp and would be bad for the motor. Autox courses are typically short and tight so you probably won't need one either for that app.
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:26 PM   #1189
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Is anybody running a V10 EJ207 yet?
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:29 PM   #1190
nedalrabadi
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that hp is what i get on the wheel ?
and would it be better if i run rotated like . . . . say the Perrin GT3076 rotated kit ?
what would get to the 420 whp ?
and i know you already said that the stock motor would be fine and up for it
but i want to know what would be the best piston rod choice out there for our motors ?
thanks for the valuable tips bro
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:31 PM   #1191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
atp3071 about 300 to 350hp. atp 3076 about 330 to 380. Stock motor is fine for these turbos. 6mt takes the power fine. Kelford cams work find but need a remap of ECU AVCS.

C
that hp is what i get on the wheel ?
and would it be better if i run rotated like . . . . say the Perrin GT3076 rotated kit ?
what would get to the 420 whp ?
and i know you already said that the stock motor would be fine and up for it
but i want to know what would be the best piston rod choice out there for our motors ?
thanks for the valuable tips bro
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Old 01-08-2011, 05:31 AM   #1192
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That hp # is to the wheel, rotated is always better. 420 crank hp? Probably.
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:33 AM   #1193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
for DD use you don't need an external cooler. Your oil would take longer to get up to temp and would be bad for the motor. Autox courses are typically short and tight so you probably won't need one either for that app.
Any suggestions on how to remove the oil cooler that is on the Spec-C motor? Should I locate a stock oil cooler from a 205/257 and replace it with that?
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:59 AM   #1194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MConte05 View Post
Any suggestions on how to remove the oil cooler that is on the Spec-C motor? Should I locate a stock oil cooler from a 205/257 and replace it with that?
the oil cooler on the spec-c motors are the same to my knowledge as the 205/257 coolers, located above the oil filter. most people replace them entirely if they suspect the motor was blown at some point,( it WILL pack any shrapnel and cause your motor to starve oil if it has enough metal junk in it..)
or if the gasket seal is leaking. Don't bother to get one used.
here are some details on how to remove it http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2444791-post6.html
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Old 01-09-2011, 01:49 AM   #1195
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Hey guys I'm almost done with my 207 swap, I'm routing out the EJ205 wiring harness in my shell (out of a 2002 wrx) and I realized I dont have the stock BCS, I just had the harness and my V7 STI engine without the BCS. I'm kinda a noob with turbos (the one part about the swap that I don't FULLY understand), so I was wondering if I just get an aftermarket MBCS would this work? Would everything plug in? If not what should I get? apparently the previous owner was running an EBC so the harness is already spliced for it. On another note if I need the stock BCS should I get a STI or WRX? Since the engine is a 207 running a VF30 and the harness is the 205 harness. Please don't flame me.
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Old 01-09-2011, 02:03 PM   #1196
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mbc is fine.
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Old 01-09-2011, 03:58 PM   #1197
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You dont really want to run an MBC on that motor. It depends on if you are keeping the factory turbo or not. Try to get the Solenoid wiring run out from ecu to the engine bay. Then you can put the factory solenoid or an HOA or prodrive type solenoid on it and have it tuned that way. You are going to be much better off.

C
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Old 01-09-2011, 04:31 PM   #1198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krang View Post
That hp # is to the wheel, rotated is always better. 420 crank hp? Probably.
ok but what about the piston/rod choice which is best STD size most suited for our v8 ej207 ?
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Old 01-09-2011, 05:15 PM   #1199
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I was looking at the Grimspeed ebc, looks like a good replacement, thoughts anyone?
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:28 PM   #1200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
for DD use you don't need an external cooler. Your oil would take longer to get up to temp and would be bad for the motor. Autox courses are typically short and tight so you probably won't need one either for that app.
I love how people just dole out advice without a clue. Do you even have an oil temp gauge in your car? Have you ever auto-x'd a Subaru with an oil temp gauge and monitored your oil temps? I have.

I run an external oil cooler and have zero problems getting my oil temps in to the normal operating range. Buy a thermostatically controlled sandwich plate! I let my car warm up for 10 mins, drive ~1.5 miles in first/second gear (sub 3000 RPM) to the highway and by that time I'm sitting around 75~80 Celsius for oil temps, warmed up.

With that said:

I'm a firm believer in an external oil cooler on any EJ. The rod bearings on these motors are narrow and the oil capacity isn't that great. It doesn't take much work to raise the oil temp up, lower the oil viscosity and potentially spin a bearing. Go buy a quality oil temp gauge, drive your car spirited and watch the oil temps. It will open your eyes. When you've seen enough, come reference this list:

- Mocal thermostatic controlled 20mm sandwich plate $85
- 10 FT of -8an $25
- Two 1/2" ORB fittings for the sandwich plate $20
- Two -8 45's off the sandwich plate, two -8 90's off the cooler $30
- Setrab oil cooler core. I run a 619 core, (11 1/4 inches, 2 inches deep, and 5 3/4 inches high) You can find them on Ebay for anywhere from $50-$200. Fits between my A/C condenser and FMIC.

So for well under $400, you could put together a quality oil cooler kit. It's cheap insurance for an expensive engine. I sit around 80-85C on cruise, and if I'm pushing it on a twisty backroad, I can get it up to 100C. Maybe on the circuit I could push it up to 110C but my cooler keeps temps in check.

Ryan
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