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Old 02-10-2011, 12:33 AM   #1301
Clutch Dog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qoncept View Post
I've never understood how people can say things like this with a straight face. You've just rationalized (in your head) how same peak HP, lower torque is a better engine.

I dont understand his logic... there are three basic ways of making more hp.. increasing rpms, increasing stroke, or forcing more air into the car.. the 207 made more power with more rpms.. and then subaru made a beefy and fairly rugged 2.5 block
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:19 PM   #1302
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I just picked up my version 8 yesterday and started getting it ready to go into my car. Here is a picture of it so far. I can't wait to have this thing going!

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Old 02-17-2011, 12:23 PM   #1303
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just bought and installed a v7 sti spec C motor!
forged internals and big port heads ftw!
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:44 PM   #1304
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You guys are just buying the EJ207, throwing them in the car and starting up?
What if these sat without running for couple years. Maybe you should pre-lubricate the cylinders a bit.
Did anybody have problems with headgaskets on used V7 and V8, that were just bought used then installed?
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:46 PM   #1305
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Power Mods:

Motor: V8 EJ207, VF37, JDM STi TMIC, AVCS functional
Exhaust: Wrapped Tomei EL Headers, Wrapped Tomei Catless DP, Rallitek AVO Catback.
Intake: Stock Box with K&N Drop-in. Hard Turbo Inlet. HOA EBCS
Trans: JDM 6-speed, ACT Stage 1 Clutch.
Fuel: Stock injectors, Walbro255

Did a 4th gear log on my way into the plant this morning. 2100 - 7800 RPM

268HP/307TQ on Airboys.

Peak boost 21.62 PSI @ 3500RPM. Tapers to 15 PSI at red-line.



PS... anyone know how to adjust airboys sheet to show more than 7000 RPM, lol that **** is weaksauce!

Last edited by fellstar; 02-17-2011 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 02-17-2011, 04:59 PM   #1306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
You guys are just buying the EJ207, throwing them in the car and starting up?
What if these sat without running for couple years. Maybe you should pre-lubricate the cylinders a bit.
Did anybody have problems with headgaskets on used V7 and V8, that were just bought used then installed?

My motor before it was shipped
Well ur right, but you just pull the fuel relay and crank the motor over so the oil lubricates the motor, then u can run it.
I bought a v7 spec c Complete motor package (Intercooler, turbo, IM, etc...) from JDMracingmotors.com
comes with a warranty. They have nothing but good reviews which is why I chose to buy from them. I needed something reliable.

I chose the v7 over the v8 cus of the forged internals, and i got the Spec C because they have the bigger port heads of the v8. double win.
Total cost for me was 4300 + 200 for the AVCS wiring kit from IA performance. Then misc costs like hoses, oil, etc... (but that goes without saying)

Talk to wali from JDMracingmotors. he will help you out a lot. He even through in the spec c aluminum control arms

PS- the motors he has between 20-30Kmiles. This is mainly cus of JAPANS strict emissions control standards, so anything with high miles gets taxed more, which is why they sell their cars... and us lucky US people buy them
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:59 PM   #1307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
You guys are just buying the EJ207, throwing them in the car and starting up?
What if these sat without running for couple years. Maybe you should pre-lubricate the cylinders a bit.
Did anybody have problems with headgaskets on used V7 and V8, that were just bought used then installed?
Did you not see my motor taken apart

I checked over and replaced any timing parts that needed replaced and will do all the proper "first start" procedures when I get to that point. My motor also comes with a 30 day start up guarantee. So if I take everything apart to replace head gaskets or check the bottom end I'll more than likely be out of my 30 day warranty period. My motor also only has about 30-35k on it.

I got my motor swap for 3800 shipped. Full longblock, twin scroll setup, tmic, ecu, etc. I'll be putting my old turbo setup from my 205 on my 207, 18g, 1000cc injectors, header, 38mm ewg, fmic, etc. It should be a fun setup.
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:06 PM   #1308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fellstar View Post
PS... anyone know how to adjust airboys sheet to show more than 7000 RPM, lol that **** is weaksauce!
you just right click on that x-axis in the spreadsheet and you get a pop up where you select "format axis" and then just manually enter the a higher value than 7k so it can run out to 8k instead.

Last edited by scoobystas; 02-20-2011 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 02-26-2011, 01:24 PM   #1309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dug-e-fresh View Post
In my opinion the valvetrain is good to 8500-8700 rpms, maybe even 9000, buy what I'd be more concerned about would be oil starvation at those rpms.

On a stock motor I simply wouldn't intentionally go beyond 8500. You'll more than likely find you wont be making any power up there anyway... unless you have cams or a nice intake manifold. And if you're gonna do that,... then you'll probably upgrade the valve train... if you do that then you'll probably do rods and pistons... and it you do that... and so on and so an... ya know what I mean?


As for my stock EJ207. Mine made 450 whp on 28-29 psi. I was running an SZ49 (essentially an FPGreen, 49lb wheel). I ran 11.2 @ 127 with that set-up, revving to 8500 in first 8200-8300 in 2nd and 8000-8200ish in 3rd (crossed the line in the high 7's in 4th). This was a 100% stock EJ207 otherwise.

I have no doubt that with a slightly larger turbo and a wee bit more boost (the SZ49 just didn't have any left) I could have dipped into the 10s with it @ 130ish.

A 1-2-1 gear-change on one run threw the rpms up to an esitmated 11,000 rpms and this did bend 3 valves abit (found out later during rebuild, but still ran strong a year after)... the next pass after the mishap it went 11.3 @ 126, hahaha

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gling View Post
Doug,

Thanks for the info. I don't go past 8000 rpm often. Heck, I don't go past 7000 rpm even when I am driving aggressively; I usually shift by 6000 rpm 95% of the time. The car is a daily for me but I just wanted to know what extremes others have put a stock 207 through.

Results from a dyno indicates that my powerband begins to decline after 7600 rpm so I don't see a need to go beyond. However, I'd like to know what could be done to increase my powerband to about 8200 rpm without any internal work, specifically torque.
Will cams alone help? I was thinking of going with a twin-scroll Garrett turbo setup as well, as I want quick spool; don't really care for slow-spooling top-end power. Also, I'd like to keep my stock intake manifold. Please see my current power mods attached below. All of this is off tangent so feel free to disregard this paragraphs if you wish.

Back on topic... what octane did you run at 28-29 psi? Did you use meth/water? What's your take on the stock 207 internals with such boost pressures? Feel free to chime in here too Clark (or anyone else for the matter).
After trying to follow this thread and some of the other threads talking about raising the powerband, I find myself confused. The consensus is that oil starvation is the key at 8500 and up on the 207.

A few things I wanted to ask were...
1) I am wondering if my vf37 20g would yield a raise of powerband
2) 8200-8500 is what I'm shooting for, so what oil modifications would be needed to be reliable at 8500 without any internal work as gling was asking?

I have a V8 with the following mods for those of you needing more info. In a nutshell...
- VF37 20g upgrade with JDM headers/uppipe
- reversed manifold with custom v-mount
- 860cc injectors
- GM boost solenoid
- APS 70mm cold air
- Aquamist HSF5 meth injection
- Killer B oil pick up

Last edited by arco; 02-26-2011 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 02-26-2011, 02:54 PM   #1310
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how much do you guys think the v7 sti rods can handle whp wise?
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Old 02-26-2011, 04:44 PM   #1311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugeye1257 View Post
how much do you guys think the v7 sti rods can handle whp wise?
I would change them if your goal is over a reliable 400awhp... but what can they handle... I bet you can make 500awhp with a good tune and have the rods take it.
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Old 02-26-2011, 04:52 PM   #1312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arco View Post
After trying to follow this thread and some of the other threads talking about raising the powerband, I find myself confused. The consensus is that oil starvation is the key at 8500 and up on the 207.

A few things I wanted to ask were...
1) I am wondering if my vf37 20g would yield a raise of powerband
2) 8200-8500 is what I'm shooting for, so what oil modifications would be needed to be reliable at 8500 without any internal work as gling was asking?

I have a V8 with the following mods for those of you needing more info. In a nutshell...
- VF37 20g upgrade with JDM headers/uppipe
- reversed manifold with custom v-mount
- 860cc injectors
- GM boost solenoid
- APS 70mm cold air
- Aquamist HSF5 meth injection
- Killer B oil pick up

FROM EVERYTHING THAT I HAVE heard and seen about the 20G/VF37/36 spool is decreased and power is more ontop but not much gains. So to answer your first question... yes your power band will be higher up but not much more than 10-20hp over a normal VF37/36.

Second question. None... you dont need any oiling mods to rev to 8,200-8,500. Just make sure all you OEM JDM components are working good and you can see 8,500 on a regular basis on a Version 8+ with big ports and the factory worked bottom end.
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Old 02-26-2011, 05:25 PM   #1313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prokaw875 View Post
I would change them if your goal is over a reliable 400awhp... but what can they handle... I bet you can make 500awhp with a good tune and have the rods take it.
yeh ive been over 400+whp for awhile just asking because i was curious. i guess we will see when i get my 6speed and push for 600whp! haha
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Old 02-26-2011, 07:37 PM   #1314
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Yeah I hear ya man. I personaly LOVE going against what everyone says I can do with my car. IE "Your stock 5 speed is going to blow in the first month of having the EJ207 matched to it" Over a year going strong. "Dont boost your car, your going to blow it up if you boost before you get tuned" Over 6 months with a base map only and never hit fuel cut, knock, and perfect compression still with no hick-ups knock on wood.

Im a firm beliver though in a blown motor NEVER being as good as it was before it blew. So what im saying is yes... push your motor and tranny but dont just wait for it to blow up or shatter before you build it.

Sorry... im bored and ramblining at work lol
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Old 02-26-2011, 07:41 PM   #1315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
You guys are just buying the EJ207, throwing them in the car and starting up?
What if these sat without running for couple years. Maybe you should pre-lubricate the cylinders a bit.
Did anybody have problems with headgaskets on used V7 and V8, that were just bought used then installed?
Kinda. My version 8 was a later gen. 2004 but what I did the swap the motor only had 8,300km on it but the plugs were replaced, timing belt, timing belt guide, and compression checked. Once the swap was installed and running we filled her up with regular oil for the start up then flushed. Then put in 5w-30 sythetic ams oil and ran that for a few hundred miles. After that second on did another change of 5w-30 ams oil synthetic, 1500 miles later changed it again, and have been 3000miles now on the regular.

It was probally a bit of overkill changing it that much but I would rather spend $100 on oil n b.s. than find out I have a bad motor and all that work down the drain.
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Old 03-02-2011, 10:49 AM   #1316
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I need to change the timing belt on my JDM V8 motor. Does anyone know if I can use the same parts that a USDM '04+ Sti uses, or do I need to use 2.0L WRX parts?
Thx
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Old 03-02-2011, 10:52 AM   #1317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chudlo View Post
I need to change the timing belt on my JDM V8 motor. Does anyone know if I can use the same parts that a USDM '04+ Sti uses, or do I need to use 2.0L WRX parts?
Thx
Same parts as the 02-07 as far as I know. One thing to make sure of, the small idler pulley that sits right next to the tensioner seems to have gone to a different design. I had an old one that had less bearings inside, and the bolt wasn't long enough for the new one. Other than that, standard 04 sti parts on mine.
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:01 AM   #1318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude

Same parts as the 02-07 as far as I know. One thing to make sure of, the small idler pulley that sits right next to the tensioner seems to have gone to a different design. I had an old one that had less bearings inside, and the bolt wasn't long enough for the new one. Other than that, standard 04 sti parts on mine.
Thanks for responding!

Did you just re-use the old bolt for that small idler pulley? And the timing belt size was the same as well as an 04 STi?
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:04 AM   #1319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chudlo View Post
Thanks for responding!

Did you just re-use the old bolt for that small idler pulley? And the timing belt size was the same as well as an 04 STi?
Do not re-use the old bolt. There are only three threads sticking out when you use the new pulley and it will strip the threads out of the block when you try to torque it to 29 ft/lbs. Either order the new bolt that comes with the pulley, or go to your local hardware store to pick up another one (I went with the local hardware store since it was quicker).

Timing belt is the same size as the 04 STi. They both had intake AVCS and the gates belt I bought lined up just right
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:19 AM   #1320
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I thought I saw a posting that several parts on the Ej207 were 207 only.
I thought that those were:
Timing belt, cam sprockets and one of the pumps, probably the water pump. I think if you re-read the early part of this thread, you may be able to find that.
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:24 AM   #1321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
I thought I saw Clark posting that several parts on the Ej207 were 207 only and have to be bought from Japan.
I thought that those were:
Timing belt, cam sprockets and one of the pumps, probably the water pump. I think if you re-read the early part of this thread, you may be able to find that.
I've known several other people with 207's in Ohio that did both regular WRX and STi timing belts on the JDM engines and it worked just fine. The AVCS sprokets might be different (although they look very similar and use the same cam seals as USDM), but the exhaust are the same as USDM as I've replaced one with a USDM part. The Oil pump was different in the beginning since we got the 10mm pump vs the US 9mm pump. Both would work, but people thought the 10mm was for the higher redline. Now with 9, 10, 11, and 12 mm pumps there's still no difference in the casting, just the rotor inside. Water pumps are identical as I just replaced mine with a USDM part number a week ago.
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:26 AM   #1322
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Some parts you cant get here. However on a timing belt change just order a new belt for a WRX OR STI. Get a new tensioner and ALL NEW idler pulleys. Also. The Newer water pump for the later cars is much better so get a new pump and gasket and a new Tstat and O ring while you are there. I would also order a new Cosworth Timing belt guide to stop the Belt from jumping off.

I used the Gates racing belt and we just completed this swap on my car at Goodspeed performance. Just call Joe and order my parts list. It was very reasonable and is an upgrade since all the new idlers have TWO Bearings instead of ONE like yours.

Clark
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:29 AM   #1323
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Are the WRX and Sti not different belts?
I mean, I'm not debating that installed, it works.
I am saying that if I had an Sti and the part number is different for the WRX belt, I would not experiment with using the WRX belt, although it may work, I would buy the part that is made for that car.

If the 207 turns out to have a different part number for the belt, than for the WRX or USDM Sti, I would chose to use it's part number for belt, although I do believe that some successfully use something else.

Edit: Clark, thanks for clearing this, a question though: Does the 207 have a different part number for the belt than the USDm WRX or Sti?
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:49 AM   #1324
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Thanks for all the help guys!
Glad to hear I can use so many USDM replacement parts.

Clark, is the Cosworth Timing belt guide necessary or can the OEM one be used instead?
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Old 03-02-2011, 12:29 PM   #1325
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The belts are the same for 207, 205 and 257.

I would put the cosworth on. Its a cheap part and it stops the belt from jumping. Its very common to see the belt one tooth off.

C
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