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Old 05-26-2011, 11:52 PM   #1651
Vlad
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the 161 part is right for the 207, but my 205 had a 22630AA160 sensor.
It was 6 months old and I wanted to transfer it.
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Old 05-26-2011, 11:59 PM   #1652
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160 part was superceded by 161 in oct 02..should work fine.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:05 AM   #1653
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I did a search for P/N: 22630AA161 and found a european suby forum talking about how this sensor affects cold starts if it's going bad... surging of idle because the ECU won't fuel the car properly if it's going bad. I have a WB02 gauge and sometimes I'm super lean on cold starts. This is the last thing that I can think of that would cause an issue. If the sensor is no good it'll read erroneously and the cold start issue fits too.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:18 AM   #1654
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you can try logging your coolant temp and see if it ever rises above 158F.
Idle air target A shows a target rpm of around 800rpm when it hits that temp on my rom.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:55 AM   #1655
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ok, I had a bad crucial thermostat before and my tuner might have adjusted something for that??? now I have an oem replacement one from napa.
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Old 05-27-2011, 07:48 AM   #1656
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You can check the sensor by turning the key to on after the car sat overnight and reading the OBD2 temperature, comparing it with outside temeperature.

As far as the part number goes:

Revisions D through F had the 161 part number OEM, I'm talking about USDM WRX here.
Revision D begins in 01/01/2004, this is manufacturing date, I would think.

Revision C had the 160 part number, superceded into 161. C begins in 2002 10/01

Revisions A and B, the really early ones, did not have or superceed into the 161 number.
Now, there are two types of supercessions, type 1 and type 2.
My Subaru parts friend (I used to be a parts guy too, for Alfa Romeo, in my past), told me that one of the two types is backwards compatible, the other is not. I don't know which.
If anybody here is currently a Subaru parts guy/gal, educate us.

Anyway, early cars go from 22630AA100 into AA160 and it is a type 2 supercession.
Since my chassis is really early, manufactured in 2001, I did not feel the situation is clear enough to transfer the sensor.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:33 AM   #1657
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seems ok to me
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:53 AM   #1658
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http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_2/ item 12 for usdm wrx shows the supercession of the part number ending
-100 with alternates -160/-161 in progression.

FWIW, my long time neighbor who works at SOA mentioned parts like this typically change suffix part numbers due to different supplier runs but the main specs are the same and backwards compatible in most cases, or otherwise stated in tech notes.
He used oil filters as an example.
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Old 05-27-2011, 04:27 PM   #1659
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I have my EJ205 sitting on the side that I can take the that sensor from BUT my thinking is that If I can get a new one then I'd prefer that because... I'd like to minimize the chances of this happening with that part too.

So I idled the car for about 20-25 minutes and the drivers side (LH) didn't turn on but did kick on if I put the AC on. I turn off the AC and it turns off. I have a speedmonkee aluminum radiator (ron davis) and recently changed my thermostat from a crucial racing one (failed partially opened/closed -- diagonal). I replaced it with what I could get at the time (napa oem replacement). I also changed my aftermarket radiator cap (on intake manifold -- don't have one on radiator) also to a napa one that'll work.

I rarely to never use napa parts. I'm going to replace the sensor with the newest part number, radiator cap, thermostat (and seal). I will also attempt to verify if my new radiator (a few months old) is clogged in the center (doubt it) by warming up the car and seeing if the center is cooler than than exterior. I use prestone 50/50 mix (green). I do not get any bubbles in my over flow tank with the radiator cap off the fill reservoir.

Anyway... I started attempted to remove the harness from the thermostat sensor with two screw drivers and when messing with the harness connector both fans kicked on for a little bit (the car has been on for about 30 minutes now and only after playing with the connector did these fans turn on) then stopped. Played with the connector again and backed it off a little bit (still electrically connected) and the fans turned on again but this time a lot longer then eventually turned off. Third time I actually removed electrical connection between the harness and the sensor and the idle was changed (timing was pulled by the ECU) and my AFRs seem to go a lot leaner.

how would I read the temp off the obdii? will rom raider do it? what section within the software do I need to browse?

thanks!
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Old 05-27-2011, 04:31 PM   #1660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
how would I read the temp off the obdii? will rom raider do it? what section within the software do I need to browse?

thanks!
theres a tick box in the RR logger "coolant temperature"
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Old 05-27-2011, 04:51 PM   #1661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi

theres a tick box in the RR logger "coolant temperature"
Thanks. I'll give that a shot today too. Do you know when the fans should pop on if all is normal?
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:08 PM   #1662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
Thanks. I'll give that a shot today too. Do you know when the fans should pop on if all is normal?
I'm not too sure, maybe someone else can chime in.

There are 3 tables under Miscellaneous-Thresholds that i think trigger the fans.
radiator fan modes (ect), radiator fan modes (veh.speed), and radiator fan swictching determination (modes)
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:58 PM   #1663
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Iirc the fans should kick on ~180*F
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Old 05-27-2011, 06:08 PM   #1664
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Thanks
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Old 05-28-2011, 05:51 PM   #1665
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Ok, just finished logging and I think I might have a problem...

My fans don't turn on until the temperature of coolant temp sensor sees 205F and doesn't turn off until it sees 192F

Is this the way it's supposed to be on JDM Version 7 ECU? I'm gonna download a stock rom to compare but wanted to see if anyone else knew. The log that I was doing was on my driveway no gas. The sensor read 81F when I started the car (which is the ambient temp outside today ).
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Old 05-28-2011, 05:59 PM   #1666
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Thats fine. The optimum temp for that engine is around 195 to 200 for power.

C
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:08 PM   #1667
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oh ok. I have been having over heating issues. I notice it in traffic when going home from work (as I've said before )

Mr Clark is there something that I can check or adjust? I have an upgraded radiator but stock fans (should I have upgraded) -- any recommendations for thin profile fans that'll work on my rondavis radiator?

I haven't swapped out my napa thermostat yet to the oem one. I just changed the temp sensor last night and haven't driven it

Last edited by iNfEk; 05-28-2011 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:15 PM   #1668
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No aftermarket fans are as good as stock. Overheating means Gauge pegged and puking coolant out of overflow. Is that happening?

This motor should run 200 range. No more then 215. No less then 180. More then likley you have air in the system. It takes days to get it out. Open the header tank when its cold and fill it. THen sqeeze the top rad hose slightly to burp it. Keep doing that until you cant get ANy more water in . THen check it and burp it again each morning.

C
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:23 PM   #1669
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no that isn't happening now. My drivers side fan wasn't turning on due to a bad connection. It previously did once. Not a good day.

I've burped it quite a bit but because my gauge is going TOWARDS hot when I know normal operating temp is in the mid range never moving.

My question regarding the aftermarket fan issue was purely based on my reasoning for:

1. the fans weren't made for the radiator thickness I have
2. wasn't made to pull or push through a FMIC to get to the radiator
3. handle the upgraded turbo and other applications I've added.

I'll do additional burping and see if it improves the situation. This has progressively gotten worse and me changing the coolant temp sensor should be in the right direction towards resolve (fingers crossed)

Maybe the question that I'm asking is... is it bad to over cool the engine with an aftermarket fan that'll be able to work as stock does?

EDIT: just went for a drive and the car feels different (more solid again). The idle is a lot better (or so it seems) and the AFRs seem a little better. I'm gonna let it sit for a bit them burp again. Still debating whether or not to change the thermostat again. LOL.

Last edited by iNfEk; 05-28-2011 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 05-28-2011, 08:25 PM   #1670
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I have never seen an aftermarket fan that is better then the stock fans. You wont find a better fan then the stock one. For some reason you think aftermarket is better, they are not. I have tried or tuned them all.

If you have a good radiator, a stock Tstat and no air in the system. You should be fine. Even at super high hp and racing. The only real upgrade needed is an oil cooler and that is ONLY if you live in a super hot climate like AZ or road race the car.
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Old 05-28-2011, 08:34 PM   #1671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner
I have never seen an aftermarket fan that is better then the stock fans. You wont find a better fan then the stock one. For some reason you think aftermarket is better, they are not. I have tried or tuned them all.

If you have a good radiator, a stock Tstat and no air in the system. You should be fine. Even at super high hp and racing. The only real upgrade needed is an oil cooler and that is ONLY if you live in a super hot climate like AZ or road race the car.
I surely don't think that after market is better than stock in most things. I buy oem all the time vs generic.

I liver in HI but it doesn't get as hot as AZ

I DO appreciate you're input.

Thanks
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:04 AM   #1672
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Today I will look for the AVCS oil mesh screens and remove them. I'll post if my engine doesn't have them.

Here's the old thread, there have been other ones, but this has some good photos in links.
The FP page has 3 TSB, aparently there's a newer one. I could not open it this morning.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ht=avcs+filter
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:23 AM   #1673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
Today I will look for the AVCS oil mesh screens and remove them. I'll post if my engine doesn't have them.

Here's the old thread, there have been other ones, but this has some good photos in links.
The FP page has 3 TSB, aparently there's a newer one. I could not open it this morning.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ht=avcs+filter
i found them on the top banjo bolts on both heads. Good to see they had no signs of clogging, since the motor arrived back in 03. Does the TSB apply to the jdm motors or do any of the newer v9+ motors have the screens?
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:27 AM   #1674
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V9 does begin in 2005. I'm about to find out, I'll post in a little while.
The TSB should apply to JDM engines.
My idle is very slightly on the rough-er side.
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:20 PM   #1675
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Well, mine doesn't have the AVCS filters anymore. It's easy to tell, as the banjo bolts at the AVCS actuators are flat-head, as opposed to "hump-head".

Now on to installing the OEM oil radiator.
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