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Old 01-13-2012, 06:08 PM   #2226
RealDealTarheel
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Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:07 PM   #2227
jhenry1983
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They are the same
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:42 PM   #2228
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gapped my plugs down to .026 like clark reccomended. was boosting 18psi fine. adjusted my actuator some more boosting around my where im tuned for at 21 and now im and its misfiring again. maybe my plug need to be gapped down even more?

i still have to play with my actuator some more and see where the sweet spot is without misfiring
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:54 PM   #2229
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You should not be adjusting the actuator. Not sure why you decided to do that. I would set it back to 10 psi where it should be by hooking a line direct.

C
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:25 PM   #2230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
You should not be adjusting the actuator. Not sure why you decided to do that. I would set it back to 10 psi where it should be by hooking a line direct.

C
i have an avo adjustable actuator. it works by adjusting the arm. the stock one is non adjustable and works through the ebcs. the only difference is the stock actuator would peak at 21 then taper down to around 15. the avo you set to your peak boost and it holds to redline. theres a hose that goes straight from the actuator to the turbo.

the actuator is not my problem its the high boost misfire. i want to beable to boost 21 like im tuned for. gapping the plugs to .026 did seem to help allow it to boost a little more without misfiring. do you think they need to be gapped down more?
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:29 PM   #2231
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No. You dont understand. You should not be adjusting that actuator to raise and lower boost like that.

C
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:34 PM   #2232
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I'm about to swap a v8 into my 2002 wrx sedan.
I have everything ready to go except for the turbo.
Initially I was set on selling the vf37 to recoup some of the costs of the swap. I was then planning on using either my existing td04 (with 19t wheel upgrade) or going with a 16g variant. However, it sounds as if this turbo will run out of steam rather early, and would work against the strengths of this motor.

I'm now either going to do a 16g variant (hoping for 16gxt-r to be released) or stick with the vf37 and just cough up the extra money.

This is a daily driver and so quick spool is my main goal, and could sacrifice top end if need be. At the same time I'd like to see at least a small improvement in top end over what I've got now with my ej205.

Any input on these three options?

1. TD04 with 19t wheel upgrade (cheapest option since I already have it)
2. 16g variant, also cheap option. Would you go with biggest 16g? (evo III, or 16gxt-r?) Quick spool but might run out of steam up top?
3. vf37 - most expensive option, but might get me the results I'm looking for. I would have to fab up custom pipes for this option. (Though the guy I bought the ej207 from said my motor was from a late v8 and said it had the longer dp...true?)

Again, this is mostly a DD, though I would like to get into some
NASA events on the future
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:41 PM   #2233
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Please dont put that Td04 on the JDM engine. That would be upsetting The EVO3 16G is cheap and works great. More then the VF for sure. Not sure if its worth any outlay of money though. The 18G is not my favorite so forget that. That leaves you at the best but most expensive of all. The ATP GTX3071 bolt on. It was made for that motor and is flat out awesome.

C
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:02 PM   #2234
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How is the spool on that turbo?
It's still stock location right? Ball bearing I assume?
What makes it such a good match with the ej207? Would you choose it over the vf37?

Not at all familiar with that turbo at all, but will research now.

So the evo III is an ok option? (I believe the 16gxt is its successor, since you can't really buy them new anymore )

Again, not looking for a dyno queen, need daily driver suitability.

Thanks Clark. I promise I won't put the td04 on!
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:16 PM   #2235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner
No. You dont understand. You should not be adjusting that actuator to raise and lower boost like that.

C
The avo actuator is different from stock and you have to adjust the rod length to get the proper amount of boost your cars tuned for. The stock one works off the ebcs and is a different setup. I don't see how I could possibly be doing anything wrong when the instructions say to set boost my shortening and lengthing the rod. The cars running exactly the same as with the stock actuator but better. I just want to get rid of this misfire and boost 21 like I'm tuned for
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:11 PM   #2236
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Is it me or is there an echo in here?
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:37 PM   #2237
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There is fail, because the issues are just repeating and they have been addressed several times in this thread.
All you have to do is go back, read and find the answer.

As far as turbos:
The XT has the machined aluminum wheel and the R has ball bearings.
Hopes are high in the twinscroll world that these are going to be a breaktrough, especially a 20GXTR TS.
I have read the 18XT thread (single scroll), these have been around for a little while and I'm starting to get a feeling that they're performing like the HTA.
At first there was a lot of hype, then, later, not so much. Not a downgrade and some still swear by it, but not a different, higher category either.

More recently, there is a 18gXTR thread. Thre seem to be mixed reviews there. Read it and draw your own conclusions.

The hype with Twinscroll for these may be associated with those articles that came out about Litchfield cars in UK.

When looking at UK dynographs, I see that it's cold a lot of the time, when the dyno is done and I remember that the fuel they have is certainly higher octane than 93 pump over here.

Also, there seems to be an inclination there to dyno in what is considered the closest to 1:1 gear. This makes sense from an engineering standpoint, but is one gear up from US.

I have the EvoIII 16g twinscroll 10sq cm currently. I like it and when the time comes, I am considering a TD06SL2 20G 10sq cm with the 3" inlet. I'm not excluding the 20gXTR TS, but I am waiting to see a bunch of graphs.

Last edited by Vlad; 01-14-2012 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:00 PM   #2238
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Well, after 2 days checking as many posts as possible, I still can't find anything. Has anyone successfully swapped the EJ207 into a MY06-07 WRX?

Only problems I've seen come up so far is the lack of immobilizer, dive-by-wire to crive-by-cable conversion, and the AVCS wires, right?
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:36 PM   #2239
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You could consider asking Wali about a V10 Ej207. Back when I talked to them, JDMracingmotors had one in stock.
It's drive by wire, but the swap would be a first. You could try it and document it..
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Old 01-15-2012, 04:22 AM   #2240
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wali doesnt work with them anymore supposedly he went back to school or somthing
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:02 PM   #2241
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Yeah, no Wali when I bought mine last week.
I worked with Robert, communication was horrible.
Had they not had good reviews I would never have purchased anything from them.
He talks over you and you cannot get a word in edge-wise, it was extremely frustrating as I literally yelled for over a minute into the phone to get him to stop talking and listen to me, but he kept on talking , either ignoring me or just didn't care.
I'm just hoping I don't have to deal with any warranty issues. If I do, I will try to talk to someone else.
Jury is still out, but hopefully it works out.
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:30 PM   #2242
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Guys, how do you source brand new EJ207 short blocks from USA?
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:31 PM   #2243
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What is the duration of the camshafts GC8 sti version 5 and 6? thank you
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:34 PM   #2244
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I found that is 256 duration!!!
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:36 PM   #2245
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Got my motor from wali@bestofjdm.com

The motor had very low mileage, was very clean and unmolested.

The shipping company dented the oilpan and Wali refunded me the cost of a new one from local dealer that day.

I had a lot of questions and Wali answered every single one in a quick and concise manner. I would definitely buy from him again.
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:54 PM   #2246
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maybe someone here can help me. i bought a 2002 wrx wagon that has either a v5 or v6 ej207 installed. the PO used all of the ej205 stuff such as crank gear and pos sensor, cam pos sensor, knock sensor, and coils (since it was coilpack jdm). The USDM intake manifold wont bolt up, and it needs to for the USDM ecu to function properly. anyone gotten around this? I may end up cutting the flanges and runners off of the jdm manifold and merge them into the USDM manifold and weld them. might be the only option. the engine is already installed and only has 16k miles on it, i really dont want to tear it open and swap to ej205 heads
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Old 01-17-2012, 01:41 PM   #2247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrxr250rider View Post
i have an avo adjustable actuator. it works by adjusting the arm. the stock one is non adjustable and works through the ebcs. the only difference is the stock actuator would peak at 21 then taper down to around 15. the avo you set to your peak boost and it holds to redline. theres a hose that goes straight from the actuator to the turbo.

the actuator is not my problem its the high boost misfire. i want to beable to boost 21 like im tuned for. gapping the plugs to .026 did seem to help allow it to boost a little more without misfiring. do you think they need to be gapped down more?
Its not surprising your having these kind of issues.

If your tinkering with the actuator your fighting your tune to provide more boost than it wants, and is a good way to get missfires.

I can not for the life of me see why changing your plug gap would be a good thing in this case. Typically for high performance you get a stronger voltage coil and overgap plugs to get a better fuel burn.

Lets put it this way...my stock USDM wrx hits 19.1 psi just fine on factory NGK plugs at factory gap, and they last 30k miles every time.

If your ECU is cutting boost its doing it for a reason, and you told it not to, and now you miss.

If your seeing high boost misses, at high rpm, I would check your fuel pump flow rate. Get a fuel pressure gauge plumb it into the system and make SURE you are not getting low PSI when everything is at open loop at high rpm/boost.

It makes a lot more sense than squashing your plugs.
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Old 01-17-2012, 02:31 PM   #2248
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Ok, someone help me out....

I've got a "late" v8 coming my way, should be here by the end of the week.
By "late" I was told it had the usdm length downpipe and a few other things that the v9 has.

If it is usdm length, why wouldn't it (vf37) bolt right on to my greddy sp2 exhaust?
Couldn't I gut it and get the same, or similar results as an aftermarket dp?

It's going into a 2002 wrx sedan.

I've also found a dp on ebay fro kinugawa that says it will work, I emailed them and they say it will work.
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=71280010400


Are there other options I'm missing?

I'd really like to keep this as "plug and play" as possible. Don't want to have anything welded up or custom made if possible, same reason I'm buying the avcs wires from iaperformance.

Thanks in advance for any input.
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:59 PM   #2249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Phenx

Its not surprising your having these kind of issues.

If your tinkering with the actuator your fighting your tune to provide more boost than it wants, and is a good way to get missfires.

I can not for the life of me see why changing your plug gap would be a good thing in this case. Typically for high performance you get a stronger voltage coil and overgap plugs to get a better fuel burn.

Lets put it this way...my stock USDM wrx hits 19.1 psi just fine on factory NGK plugs at factory gap, and they last 30k miles every time.

If your ECU is cutting boost its doing it for a reason, and you told it not to, and now you miss.

If your seeing high boost misses, at high rpm, I would check your fuel pump flow rate. Get a fuel pressure gauge plumb it into the system and make SURE you are not getting low PSI when everything is at open loop at high rpm/boost.

It makes a lot more sense than squashing your plugs.
Actually my car is running perfect now that the plugs are gapped right(.026) and my actuator is set right. You guys really need to take a look at the avo actuator and understand how it works before you say im doing something wrong. It's a different design then stock and is much better.better boost response and holds to redline. the response was slow with the stock actuator and it peaked early and tapered down. im not messing with my tune at all just adjusting the actuator to hit the psi im tuned for without overboosting. this actuator doesnt run off an ebcs like the stock one theres a hose coming out of the actuator straight to the turbo and its adjusted by shortening or lengthening the actuator arm.

i think i may try copper plugs before i get tuned,they dont last aslong but are better conductors and less prone to misfires with high boost.

Last edited by mrxr250rider; 01-17-2012 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:59 PM   #2250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azscooby View Post
Ok, someone help me out....

I've got a "late" v8 coming my way, should be here by the end of the week.
By "late" I was told it had the usdm length downpipe and a few other things that the v9 has.

If it is usdm length, why wouldn't it (vf37) bolt right on to my greddy sp2 exhaust?
Couldn't I gut it and get the same, or similar results as an aftermarket dp?

It's going into a 2002 wrx sedan.

I've also found a dp on ebay fro kinugawa that says it will work, I emailed them and they say it will work.
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=71280010400


Are there other options I'm missing?

I'd really like to keep this as "plug and play" as possible. Don't want to have anything welded up or custom made if possible, same reason I'm buying the avcs wires from iaperformance.

Thanks in advance for any input.


if your buyign a complete longblock with everything bolted on with an ecu you dont need the iaperf wire harness. you basically drop the entire engine in and put the jdm ecu in and start it up and tune it. ppl that buy shortblocks and use the usdm wire harness on a jdm engine require the use of the iaperf wire harness to turn there tgv wires into avcs wires basically. jdm cars dont have tgvs and those wires are instead used for avcs. something not found on usdm 02-05 wrx's.

your dp wont bolt up because its for a single scroll turbo. jdm twin scroll turbo's have different dp flange bolt pattern. the best option is to remove the heat shield from the stocker. cut it at a logical location like a foot from the turbo. cut the top of your dp off and weld on the jdm part you cut off. then it will be plug and play.
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