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Old 01-17-2012, 06:11 PM   #2251
Jubert39
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Dont think thats true. I got a complete ver7 engine ( longblock, tmic turbo intake manifold etc) +ecu. I dropped that into my 04 wrx. Bc im mating the two, i still need the avcs wiring kit to make it work despite have the jdm ecu. U are correct about the avcs replacong he tgvs, however hes dropping into an 02 with the usdm harness. He still needs the wiring kit
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:23 PM   #2252
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Yes.
You have to take the signals from the engine harness main connectors to the ECU.
You can use the TGV wires, it will work, but these won't be shielded like the factory wants the AVCS to be. To use the TGV wires, you still have to work on re-pinning.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:26 PM   #2253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad
Yes.
You have to take the signals from the engine harness main connectors to the ECU.
You can use the TGV wires, it will work, but these won't be shielded like the factory wants the AVCS to be. To use the TGV wires, you still have to work on re-pinning.
Can u use a usdm ecu with a jdm longblock and still retain the avcs?
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:27 PM   #2254
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No, you need the JDM ECU.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:38 PM   #2255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad
No, you need the JDM ECU.
Thats wat i thought i have one its just ecutek'ed and im trying to get rid of that software!
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:48 PM   #2256
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If there is no way around .... just use ecutek. You have a license on the ECU so tuning will cost the normal cost.
You can download their software for the map installation and may have to buy a delta dash kit, to have the cable. These days people are unloading them so you should be able to get a good deal.

You won't be able to tune it yourself, but many prefer to use a reputable tuner.
I'm sure someone will help you with this.
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:51 PM   #2257
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Yeah im just trying to find the kit to load the maps. Do you happen to know anywhere that sells them
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:08 PM   #2258
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You have to purchase the delta dash cable. Then you can download from their page for free the full version delta dash software, that logs and dynoes the car.

I am still using this to log the car and dyno the car. The road dyno feature is nice and accurate.

You can then also download for free from their site EasyECU which allows you to send and receive maps and install them.

The key is to be able to have a ECUTEK cable that is validated by their software. The cable has the key onboard. It is sold as ecutek cable or delta dash cable.

At the beginning the, delta dash came with a limited number of licenses on board, meaning even this logging software could only be used on a limited number of cars. When you buy it, make sure there is an available license on it.

Ecutek still has some advantages, as they pay developers to work on Subaru software 8 hours a day.
They have sometimes tables that otherwise are not seen. Think rear oxygen sensor tables and dwell angle tables (I know there's a patch now for romraider).
I wish for example that for my year JDM there was a feature (available for USDM Sti) to allow the efective WDC to reach over 89.9%. The lock is in the ROM, but the unlocking feature was never develloped for the JDM.
I've put in a request with romraider, but few are working on develloping right now and there is a lot of work to do on new models.
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:20 PM   #2259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
if your buyign a complete longblock with everything bolted on with an ecu you dont need the iaperf wire harness. you basically drop the entire engine in and put the jdm ecu in and start it up and tune it. ppl that buy shortblocks and use the usdm wire harness on a jdm engine require the use of the iaperf wire harness to turn there tgv wires into avcs wires basically. jdm cars dont have tgvs and those wires are instead used for avcs. something not found on usdm 02-05 wrx's.

your dp wont bolt up because its for a single scroll turbo. jdm twin scroll turbo's have different dp flange bolt pattern. the best option is to remove the heat shield from the stocker. cut it at a logical location like a foot from the turbo. cut the top of your dp off and weld on the jdm part you cut off. then it will be plug and play.
I think you are confused on the difference between a long block and a short block. A short block is just the block halves, and internals. Long block is the short block plus the complete cylinder heads. They have nothing to do with wiring.

If the complete EJ207 is going into an 02-05 WRX you will need the IA performance AVCS wiring kit. The AVCS wires are not in the USDM harness. The TGV's use the same pin outs in the plugs as the JDM AVCS. You still need to add some wires to make the AVCS functional.

You are spot on about the down pipe tho. Twin scroll DP is different than the USDM single scroll. And the JDM twin scroll DP is about 6 inches too short to mount up to a USDM cat back exhaust.
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:32 PM   #2260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 181stLeader View Post
I think you are confused on the difference between a long block and a short block. A short block is just the block halves, and internals. Long block is the short block plus the complete cylinder heads. They have nothing to do with wiring.

If the complete EJ207 is going into an 02-05 WRX you will need the IA performance AVCS wiring kit. The AVCS wires are not in the USDM harness. The TGV's use the same pin outs in the plugs as the JDM AVCS. You still need to add some wires to make the AVCS functional.

You are spot on about the down pipe tho. Twin scroll DP is different than the USDM single scroll. And the JDM twin scroll DP is about 6 inches too short to mount up to a USDM cat back exhaust.
Let me correct you on the JDM STI downpipe situation. Starting in JDM MY03 STI they introduced the Twin Scroll Turbo. MY03-04 is known as a Ver8 STI setup, while a MY05-06 is a Ver9 STI. The MY03-04 JDM STI Twin Scroll Downpipe is approximately 6" shorter than a USDM Downpipe. However in JDM MY05-06 they changed the Downpipe length, to that of the USDM WRX/STI. If you truly are getting a MY05-06 EJ207, that downpipe will mate to a USDM Length Catback.
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Old 01-17-2012, 11:35 PM   #2261
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so basically when i get my late model v8 block with everything on it including the jdm engine harness im obv going to drop it into the engine bay. plug in the bulkhead plugs on the fuse box side and passenger side. swap in the jdm ecu. from that point i will be able to start the car but avcs wont work? i know something has to be changed with the neutral saftey switch but if the nss is correct then why wouldnt avcs work? the signal wires that go from the bulkhead harness plugs in the engine bay that are normally tgv would now be the avcs.... im kinda of confused because i know that the iaperf wires are needed for using a usdm engine harness but i thought that was it...
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Old 01-17-2012, 11:37 PM   #2262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 181stLeader View Post
I think you are confused on the difference between a long block and a short block. A short block is just the block halves, and internals. Long block is the short block plus the complete cylinder heads. They have nothing to do with wiring.

If the complete EJ207 is going into an 02-05 WRX you will need the IA performance AVCS wiring kit. The AVCS wires are not in the USDM harness. The TGV's use the same pin outs in the plugs as the JDM AVCS. You still need to add some wires to make the AVCS functional.

You are spot on about the down pipe tho. Twin scroll DP is different than the USDM single scroll. And the JDM twin scroll DP is about 6 inches too short to mount up to a USDM cat back exhaust.


my above post was regarding to the longblock. yes its the longblock with everything else on it as well. like if i pulled the engine off a jdm car without taking anything off. unplug, pull and drop into my car. replug back in.
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Old 01-17-2012, 11:45 PM   #2263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
so basically when i get my late model v8 block with everything on it including the jdm engine harness im obv going to drop it into the engine bay. plug in the bulkhead plugs on the fuse box side and passenger side. swap in the jdm ecu. from that point i will be able to start the car but avcs wont work? i know something has to be changed with the neutral saftey switch but if the nss is correct then why wouldnt avcs work? the signal wires that go from the bulkhead harness plugs in the engine bay that are normally tgv would now be the avcs.... im kinda of confused because i know that the iaperf wires are needed for using a usdm engine harness but i thought that was it...
You would use the wires on the drivers side plug behind the battery that normally go to the TGV motors and re pin them to be used for the AVCS solenoids, you'll be moving them around at both that connector and the ecu. Then you just add 4 shielded wires to the connector at the passenger side strut tower, and run them to the ecu.
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:33 AM   #2264
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could someone link me to a diagram of this at all? thread search function sucks!
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Old 01-18-2012, 06:46 AM   #2265
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I actually finished reading the entire thread and thanks to all that cleared up the utec, avcs question for me. It don'ed on me that if this swap was to go down (long block w/avcs)

1. would i now have to run fp avcs oil supply line, i believe that this is only necessary for usdm 2.5l avcs correct? (currently ej205 OG Green)

2. how do suppliers know how many miles are on these ej207 blocks
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:32 AM   #2266
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No. The oil supply line need is dictated by the turbo choice, not by the AVCS style.
I run the FP AVCS/turbo oil supply line.
FP keep saying that the upgraded sleeve bearing turbos need more oil than normal. I believe them.
They found a flow restrictor in the line that goes past the banjo, towards the turbo. So they cap that and ressuply from on top of the AVCS solenoid.
If you're keeping the stock turbo for now, you must not upgrade the oil supply, however.
I run a twinscroll Evo III 16G.
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:41 AM   #2267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik View Post
You would use the wires on the drivers side plug behind the battery that normally go to the TGV motors and re pin them to be used for the AVCS solenoids, you'll be moving them around at both that connector and the ecu. Then you just add 4 shielded wires to the connector at the passenger side strut tower, and run them to the ecu.
This is the first correct statement in quite a long run...
Also adding is a simple word, here's a more detailed description of this:
-You learn how to un-pin existing wires in the engine main connector, without breaking anything.
- You somehow acquire full knowledge of the complete connector pin-out, so that you don't un-pin something by mistake, without buying the electrical diagram of the JDM, because that does still cost.
- You repeat this with the ECU. I hate disconnecting the ECU. Somehow it feels that each time those connectors become slightly a bit looser.
There you also have to learn the unlocking mechanism for pins, without breaking anything.
- Grounding the shielding of the shielded wires is part of the wiring diagram. The shield needs to go to a pin too, to go to ground.

Alternately, get everything pre-made and 6 pages of photographic instructions plus the way they answer the phone when you need them, from IAP.
I called them 4 times during my installation. I reccomed this route.
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Old 01-18-2012, 09:58 AM   #2268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
This is the first correct statement in quite a long run...
Also adding is a simple word, here's a more detailed description of this:
-You learn how to un-pin existing wires in the engine main connector, without breaking anything.
- You somehow acquire full knowledge of the complete connector pin-out, so that you don't un-pin something by mistake, without buying the electrical diagram of the JDM, because that does still cost.
- You repeat this with the ECU. I hate disconnecting the ECU. Somehow it feels that each time those connectors become slightly a bit looser.
There you also have to learn the unlocking mechanism for pins, without breaking anything.
- Grounding the shielding of the shielded wires is part of the wiring diagram. The shield needs to go to a pin too, to go to ground.

Alternately, get everything pre-made and 6 pages of photographic instructions plus the way they answer the phone when you need them, from IAP.
I called them 4 times during my installation. I reccomed this route.
The DS1 documentation is very good and outlines the relavant JDM pinout.
As for unlocking the pins a small screwdriver works well.
Here is a pdf link: https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...ZDM1YWE4&hl=en

The IAP harness is really simple and neat as well for the PNP route.
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:22 PM   #2269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrxr250rider View Post
Actually my car is running perfect now that the plugs are gapped right(.026) and my actuator is set right. You guys really need to take a look at the avo actuator and understand how it works before you say im doing something wrong. It's a different design then stock and is much better.better boost response and holds to redline. the response was slow with the stock actuator and it peaked early and tapered down. im not messing with my tune at all just adjusting the actuator to hit the psi im tuned for without overboosting. this actuator doesnt run off an ebcs like the stock one theres a hose coming out of the actuator straight to the turbo and its adjusted by shortening or lengthening the actuator arm.

i think i may try copper plugs before i get tuned,they dont last aslong but are better conductors and less prone to misfires with high boost.
Right or wrong is irrelevant. If it is tuned for it then its fine. The EBCS controls boost levels based on a LOT of stuff including sensor inputs. For example on hot humid days your ECU will compensate and pull back boost because the air is less dense and you can lean out if you push too hard.

The EBCS has nothing to do with holding to redline, its your tune + ecu telling it to lessen the boost as the rpm's climb. If you want a better EBCS the Prodrive 3 port is pretty phenomenal if you have it built into your tune.

If your response is slow with the stock actuator it may not have been adjusted right. They can change with age. Typically you loosen the nut, pop the actuator arm off the wastegate, hold the gate firmly closed then adjust the length of the arm until it slides over with slight resistance with bias to it being too short. Tighten the nut up. You would be amazed at the difference in speed your boost comes on with it set properly.

If the correct plug gap is .026 then that is what you should run, unless you mod your ignition system.

For example I run a full MSD setup in my jeep which allows me to run .010 overgap (.045 total) . Netted me 26hp and 3mpg.
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:25 PM   #2270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
That leaves you at the best but most expensive of all. The ATP GTX3071 bolt on. It was made for that motor and is flat out awesome.

C
Hey Clark,

Wondering if you could elaborate on that turbo a bit. Im sitting on the fence between the Dom 1.5XTR and the GTX3071R. The ATP is a bit more expensive ($300ish) but when you're spending that much on a turbo anyway, Im wondering if the extra $300 is justified.

TIA
-Z
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Old 01-18-2012, 05:04 PM   #2271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Phenx View Post
Right or wrong is irrelevant. If it is tuned for it then its fine. The EBCS controls boost levels based on a LOT of stuff including sensor inputs. For example on hot humid days your ECU will compensate and pull back boost because the air is less dense and you can lean out if you push too hard.

The EBCS has nothing to do with holding to redline, its your tune + ecu telling it to lessen the boost as the rpm's climb. If you want a better EBCS the Prodrive 3 port is pretty phenomenal if you have it built into your tune.

If your response is slow with the stock actuator it may not have been adjusted right. They can change with age. Typically you loosen the nut, pop the actuator arm off the wastegate, hold the gate firmly closed then adjust the length of the arm until it slides over with slight resistance with bias to it being too short. Tighten the nut up. You would be amazed at the difference in speed your boost comes on with it set properly.

If the correct plug gap is .026 then that is what you should run, unless you mod your ignition system.

For example I run a full MSD setup in my jeep which allows me to run .010 overgap (.045 total) . Netted me 26hp and 3mpg.
stock vf series actuator isnt adjustable and is known to taper down. thats why the avo is a good upgrade. also i do have a prodrive ebcs but its not hooked up anymore due to the avo's different design. it basically elimates the need for an ebcs and is a much better than stock actuator for the vf turbos.
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Old 01-18-2012, 05:48 PM   #2272
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Just Drop it guys. He is going to defend that actuator and his adjustments no matter what. He paid money for it guys.

C
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Old 01-18-2012, 06:01 PM   #2273
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Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
Just Drop it guys. He is going to defend that actuator and his adjustments no matter what. He paid money for it guys.

C
Clark, it is prettier than the old skool Home Depot helper spring mod which cost less than 3 bucks
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Old 01-18-2012, 06:51 PM   #2274
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I had the helper spring mod aswell on the stock actuator. But I do agree drop it. my cars running great. The actuator helped boost response and holds boost to redline like the actuator is supposed to do.
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Old 01-18-2012, 08:13 PM   #2275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
The DS1 documentation is very good and outlines the relavant JDM pinout.
As for unlocking the pins a small screwdriver works well.
Here is a pdf link: https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...ZDM1YWE4&hl=en

The IAP harness is really simple and neat as well for the PNP route.
so move the pins to the correct spot and use the iaperf bulkhead harness for 200 bucks and put it were the ds1 motorsports diagram says? hmmm sucks i got to spend another 200 bucks but seems to be fairly straight forward!
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