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Old 09-15-2006, 06:21 PM   #26
BeratE
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I don't have a better suggestion but I definitely ask that when you figure it out you make sure to post it because I have similar symptoms (minus the occasional glory moments) and will be following this thread.
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Old 09-15-2006, 06:39 PM   #27
KAX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenk View Post
^^^^^^ Good idea, but nobody's mentioned it b/c I had already ruled it out in my first post.
If it turns out that the turbo is okay, I'll have no choice but to go to the dealer...or maybe my tuner (2 hours away).
ah, nvm then.
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:15 AM   #28
K.Linchpin
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Question

Sorry for all of the questions, but I'm trying to clarify some things that I don't know because I have some similar symptoms that are driving me crazy...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenk View Post
BOV is clean as a whistle and not sticking. I will check for the brass restrictor to the BCS and pop the DP off the hotside on Friday.

Any quick way to check the BCS operation, or is it strictly a replace and hope for the best fix?

As I recall the events of Monday evening, I do seem to remember the car feeling particularly laggy after a 3rd gear pull to redline. Could that have moved the brass restrictor? I sure don't remember hearing anything go "pop!"

Thanks for the suggestions. I can't wait to get this fixored.
What's a BCS? can you describe it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenk View Post
Thanks for the input.

I'm going to pop the DP off the hotside and check the turbine. Seems strange that the turbo is nuked after 45K easy miles. Especially since it gave no warning signs and my average MPG has been good (24-26 city, 26-29 highway).

From talking with other folks, it's most likely a vacuum/boost leak, but I'll be darned if I can find the leak!
if you do this, will you have to replace the gasket? I read a UP/DP install tutorial and the writer mentioned replacing that gasket. Is there a side of the turbo that is easily reached? I have my intercooler off on my car right now and it still seems really crammed in there. Uhh... just a sugestion, if you want to be certain that there is no leak, maybe you could replace that gasket?

Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted_rs View Post
More specifically, you're looking for front to rear play.
/ ^ U
/
/
=======/=======
/
/
L <--- ---> R v D

front/rear play... in my preschool like picture, is that L/R, or U/D?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenk View Post
^^^^^^ Good idea, but nobody's mentioned it b/c I had already ruled it out in my first post.



If it turns out that the turbo is okay, I'll have no choice but to go to the dealer...or maybe my tuner (2 hours away).
Umm, I was yanking on my waste gate arm which was attatched to the turbo still and it didn't budge. How would you test the waste gate? Apply 15 psi and see if it pushes the waste gate open? I noticed that the arm is like a Tie Rod. can you adjust it to have it seal better (my problem is low boost)? Check this pic out. Maybe it's cracked open slightly. http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...C02100copy.jpg

Thanks!
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Old 09-17-2006, 12:16 PM   #29
Spenk
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Evo Orange Mica (1/644)

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Slow spool and low boost problem has been identified and resolved!

The WG was sticking open ever so slightly -- the arm wasn't fully retracting back into the WG actuator due to crud build-up and a bit of corrosion on the arm itself. Even though I had already checked the WG arm and flapper to make sure it was moving freely, I failed to notice that it wasn't always retracting that last 1/16" back into the actuator. Doh!

Sanded the arm to get the surface rust off, squirted a little lube into the actuator and it now fully retracts. Spool and boost are back to normal.

Since the car was up on ramps, I popped the DP off. The turbine wheel is A-OK -- no play, spins like silk. There was a 1/8" wide gasket leak between the turbo and DP -- looks like the copper gasket got pinched and folded when I first installed it. Time for an OEM gasket.

The real bonus was looking at the WG divider plate in the DP -- the WG flapper had been making a tiny bit of contact with it, showing slightly worn bare metal. Five minutes with a file and that was fixed. The flapper itself was OK and showed no wear or rough edge from the contact.

So, what will I take away from this episode?
(1) Occam's Razor is no joke.
(2) Underhood grime can accumulate in the strangest places.
(3) As much as I love my Crucial shorty, if I were ever to use another DP it would be a bellmouth.

Thanks to all who offered insight and suggestions. Dumb as it may sound, I learned alot about my car from this little experience.

EDIT:

I did have to replace the WG actuator eventually, which was difficult only in the sense of finding one to install.

Last edited by Spenk; 04-19-2007 at 05:48 AM. Reason: new info
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Old 09-17-2006, 12:38 PM   #30
Spenk
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Evo Orange Mica (1/644)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.Linchpin View Post
(1) What's a BCS? can you describe it?



(2) if you do this, will you have to replace the gasket? I read a UP/DP install tutorial and the writer mentioned replacing that gasket. Is there a side of the turbo that is easily reached? I have my intercooler off on my car right now and it still seems really crammed in there. Uhh... just a sugestion, if you want to be certain that there is no leak, maybe you could replace that gasket?

(3) front/rear play... in my preschool like picture, is that L/R, or U/D?



(4) Umm, I was yanking on my waste gate arm which was attatched to the turbo still and it didn't budge. How would you test the waste gate? Apply 15 psi and see if it pushes the waste gate open? I noticed that the arm is like a Tie Rod. can you adjust it to have it seal better (my problem is low boost)? Check this pic out. Maybe it's cracked open slightly. http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...C02100copy.jpg

Thanks!
(1) The BCS (boost control solenoid) or F(factory)BCS is an electronically controlled device that controls the WG actuator. When you get to a certain boost level, the BCS opens a valve which allows the WG actuator to do its thing and keep the boost from building too high. Your BCS is located in front of the passenger side strut tower.

(2) Replacing the Turbo-->DP gasket isn't required if it looks to be in good shape and hasn't been on the car forever, but I'm replacing it along with the gasket between the DP and 2nd cat (which ripped to hell when I pulled the DP off the car to file it).

(3) Shaft play on the turbo is confirmed when you take the DP off and notice any movement other than smooth spinning of turbine wheel. It should not be wiggling or rocking around at all.

(4) How to check for sticking WG arm -- with the arm attached to the flapper, grab it with both hands and pull the arm towards the firewall. There will be considerable spring resistance, but the arm should move smoothly in and out of the actuator without hanging up on anything. Mine was crunchy and wouldn't allow the WG flapper to fully shut in the turbo.


I hope you figure out your boost problem!

Last edited by Spenk; 09-17-2006 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 09-17-2006, 01:06 PM   #31
BeratE
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Spenk, I have one question for you; when you were not reaching the correct amount of boost, did you still have the correct amount of vacuum at idle?
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Old 09-17-2006, 01:18 PM   #32
Spenk
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Now that you mention it, I do recall that I noticed the vacuum was ~0.01MPa higher at idle when the WG was not fully closed. Dumbass that I am, I had incorrectly assumed that it was due to some kind of additional resistance in the turbine.
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:20 PM   #33
KAX
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2002 WRX powered

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hehe, i win .
glad you got it figured out.
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