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Old 09-16-2006, 09:06 AM   #1
Element Tuning
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Default Element Tuning Hydramist Official Q&A



The Element Hydramist was developed from the beginning to be the ultimate water/methanol injection with uncompromised performance, control, and safety. The Hydramist is a fully integrated water/methanol injection solution controlled via the Hydra EMS. This system allows full 3D mapping of water flow based on load and rpm, automatic map switching, and unparalleled protection never seen before in any water/methanol injection system. When we first set out to develop a water/methanol injection system we discovered very quickly the limitations of most universal systems in that they rarely offered precise control over the injection or the failsafe mechanisms were insufficient at protecting the engine when failure occurred. To help develop a superior system for the Hydra EMS Element Tuning worked with the industry leader in water/methanol injection systems, Aquamist.

I'll continued to add to this first post as time permits.

Here is the Hydramist Installation Guide:

http://www.elementtuning.com/Hydrami...amistguide.htm

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
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Last edited by Element Tuning; 11-30-2006 at 02:14 PM. Reason: Edit installation guide link
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Old 09-16-2006, 09:09 AM   #2
Element Tuning
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Default Setting Up Your Element Hydra EMS for Hydramist Tuning

Assign 3D PWM Map 11 as your Hydramist HSV map. This map is load vs. RPM and the values denote duty cycle of the HSV for a given boost and rpm. The load and rpm sites are 0% to 100% and signify the minimum and maximum range in your fuel map. So if the greatest boost level in your fuel and spark maps are 31 PSI then the 100% load site = 31 psi. Element Tuning customers can be provided with this map.



Caution!

When a boost and rpm level is reached in this map and the HSV has a duty cycle higher than 10% this will automatically activate the Hydramist pump. If within 2 seconds the Hydramist Water Flow sensor does not register water flow on the Hydramist DDS3 gauge the system will automatically revert back to the regular fuel and spark maps in the Hydra EMS.

While the Hydramist is active fueling is controlled by the Fuel Auxiliary Trim Map. This map is a function of the main fuel map. At the desired boost and rpm point you will use this map to subtract fuel from your main fuel map. Element Tuning customers can be provided with this map.



Caution!

It's important to reduce fuel in this map only when water flow is realized. So if your Hydramist turns on at 10 psi do not remove fuel until after 10 psi. This map shows 2 degrees of timing added into the idle areas. This was used just for testing to ensure the map switching operation was functional.
While the Hydramist is active ignition timing is controlled by the Spark Auxiliary Trim Map. This map is a function of the main spark map. At the desired boost and rpm point you will use this map to add ignition timing to your main spark map. Element Tuning customers can be provided with this map.



Caution!

It's important to add ignition timing into this map only when water flow is realized. So if your Hydramist turns on at 10 psi do not add ignition timing until after 10 psi. This map shows 2 degrees of timing added into the idle areas. This was used just for testing to ensure the map switching operation was functional.



To activate your Hydramist system you must press (red) the "on" button. When "on" the Hydramist is active and your Auxiliary Maps are enabled. If within 2 seconds of your HSV injecting water flow is not realized then the Hydra will revert to the standard fuel and spark maps. When the Hydramist DDS3 Diplay Gauge is "off" the Hydra reverts to the standard fuel and spark maps.

W.Injection = Display's when system is on

Water Level = Illuminates when water level is low. Pump will be turned off

Flow = Shows flow from water flow sensor

B = Illuminates when Hydra Auxiliary Maps are enabled

SC = Adjusts the range of flow display

WL = Water flow low fault

WH = Water flow high fault

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
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Old 09-16-2006, 09:32 AM   #3
ejh25
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Phil,
I'm mounting my Jazz fuel cell in the upper passenger corner as high as possible. Should I hold it down with some straps? Anything else better suited?
The oultet of the pump has to be below the outlet of the water tank, correct?
Thanks,
Eric
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Old 09-16-2006, 09:51 AM   #4
Element Tuning
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Yes you will need to secure that tank well because once it has a gallon of fluid it will be heavy. You should mount the pump below or inline with the tank's outlet for optimal performance and to reduce the chances of sucking air into the pump.

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
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Old 09-16-2006, 12:05 PM   #5
keaniegenie
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How big is the gauge that comes with this kit?
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Old 09-16-2006, 12:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Element Tuning View Post
The gauge is a standard 52 mm.

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
here ya go

also phil what kind of #'s are you seeing with your almost stock 06 STi+hydra+hydramist??

Last edited by THE-95-STi; 09-16-2006 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 09-16-2006, 04:34 PM   #7
ejh25
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With regards to the fuel level sensor, the hole that needs to be drilled is 22mm, correct?
Will a 7/8" hole saw be sufficient for that or do I need a 22mm bit?
Thanks,
Eric
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Old 09-16-2006, 05:10 PM   #8
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The hole size should 22mm +/- 0.5mm.

3/4"(19.05mm) is a bit on the small side. You can however use a taped reamer to enlarge it. Suggest using a hand reamer or a machine reamer at a slow speed.

Please ensure finished hole is burred free.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:28 AM   #9
ejh25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamist View Post
The hole size should 22mm +/- 0.5mm.

3/4"(19.05mm) is a bit on the small side. You can however use a taped reamer to enlarge it. Suggest using a hand reamer or a machine reamer at a slow speed.

Please ensure finished hole is burred free.
Richard,
Thanks....I will ensure that the hole is burr free. I could use a dremel as a reamer, correct?
Your saying 3/4" is too small but I could ream it out?
Is a 7/8" hole too big?
7/8" = .875"
22mm = .866"
22.5mm = .886"

Shouldn't the 7/8" hole work? Should I use a drill bit instead of a hole saw?
Thanks,
Eric

Last edited by ejh25; 09-17-2006 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:32 AM   #10
ejh25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Element Tuning View Post
Yes you will need to secure that tank well because once it has a gallon of fluid it will be heavy. You should mount the pump below or inline with the tank's outlet for optimal performance and to reduce the chances of sucking air into the pump.

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
Phil or Richard,
How did you secure your tank Jazz fuel cell on your previous car?
I was thinnking that I would create a base for the fuel cell to elevate it off the floor of the trunk by about 4 inches so that it is slightly above the outlet of the pump. Then I was going to use straps to secure it in place. I am waiting on a GT-Spec trunk cage....that will make it easier to strap it down.

One Q on the pump mounting (and this may be in the instructions but I want to clarify):
Should the outlet side of the pump be facing upwards or downwards when mounted on its side to the passenger rear fender well?

Thanks for the help!
- Eric

Last edited by ejh25; 09-17-2006 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 09-17-2006, 12:07 PM   #11
Element Tuning
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I thought I had pictures but I cannot locate them. The fuel cell can be mounted with 2 aluminum straps. We used approx 3mm thick aluminum strap bent around the fuel cell but left extra on both ends so they joined together creating a tab. We drilled through these tabs and ran bolts through the sheet metal in the trunk. Remove the carpeting behind the fender well and it will make sense. You will also need to secure the bottom of the tank for extra support.

looks like this from top. The tab will be drilled and bolted to the sheet metal.
____l
____l

On the pump question it is in the instructions but always put the inlet at the bottom, therefore the outlet on top when mounting horizontally. If mounting veritcally both will be at the bottom.

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:16 PM   #12
ejh25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Element Tuning View Post
I thought I had pictures but I cannot locate them. The fuel cell can be mounted with 2 aluminum straps. We used approx 3mm thick aluminum strap bent around the fuel cell but left extra on both ends so they joined together creating a tab. We drilled through these tabs and ran bolts through the sheet metal in the trunk. Remove the carpeting behind the fender well and it will make sense. You will also need to secure the bottom of the tank for extra support.

looks like this from top. The tab will be drilled and bolted to the sheet metal.
____l
____l
Where did you find the aluminum straps. The people at Home Depot had no idea what I was talking about. I bought a roll of 6"x10' aluminum which is roughly 3mm thick. I can cut it into strips. Will that work? I also have gigantic zip ties that could secure it.
Thanks,
Eric
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Old 09-17-2006, 05:47 PM   #13
Element Tuning
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Eric,

I have seen the aluminum strapping at both Home Depot and Lowes. It's usually with the C channels, steel threaded rods, aluminum rods, steel strips, etc. If it's flexible enough to be in a roll that's not going to even hold a quart. LOL! The aluminum isthick and tough to bend. It's just like the bracket your Hydra comes with.

Go back to Lowes.
Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:14 PM   #14
ejh25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Element Tuning View Post
Eric,

I have seen the aluminum strapping at both Home Depot and Lowes. It's usually with the C channels, steel threaded rods, aluminum rods, steel strips, etc. If it's flexible enough to be in a roll that's not going to even hold a quart. LOL! The aluminum isthick and tough to bend. It's just like the bracket your Hydra comes with.

Go back to Lowes.
Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
Phil,
Some pics would be fantastic...
Help me explain exactly what I'm looking for to someone at Home Depot or Lowes.
I saw aluminum bars that were 4' long, flat and maybe a few mils thick. They seemed like they would be extremely difficult to bend but if that's what I'm looking for then I can handle that.
Thanks,
Eric

Last edited by ejh25; 09-17-2006 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:26 PM   #15
ejh25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamist View Post
The hole size should 22mm +/- 0.5mm.

3/4"(19.05mm) is a bit on the small side. You can however use a taped reamer to enlarge it. Suggest using a hand reamer or a machine reamer at a slow speed.

Please ensure finished hole is burred free.
Richard,
I ended up using a 3/4" drill bit. That was actually plenty big. I used a dremel to smooth things out and then some coarse sandpaper and then some fine sandpaper to ensure that there were no burrs.
Thanks,
Eric







Last edited by ejh25; 09-17-2006 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 09-18-2006, 05:22 AM   #16
Aquamist
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Very concise tank installation images. I see that you have put a great deal of effort to do things properly. Great post.

I don't know what the final hole size is, it looked a well-fit set up. I can see some burrs on the inside edge of the hole, if this can be cleared, it will help. Without a flat surface the rubber seal will not seal properly.

I can see the outside seal restes on burr-free surface. Iwoudl be nice if both seal is work at its best.

More importantly, rotate the sensor until the moulded arrow points unwards. See picture below:


Last edited by Aquamist; 09-18-2006 at 05:27 AM.
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Old 09-18-2006, 05:26 AM   #17
Aquamist
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For those who intend to do a great of track racing, some form of foam (alcohol/water resistance) inside the tank would be very useful to prevent surge.

Ensure the leaving a cavity for the level sensor.
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Old 09-18-2006, 08:38 AM   #18
ejh25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamist View Post
I can see some burrs on the inside edge of the hole, if this can be cleared, it will help. Without a flat surface the rubber seal will not seal properly.
More importantly, rotate the sensor until the moulded arrow points unwards.
Richard,
I will take care of the burrs on the inside as well as rotating the sensor so that it works properly.
Thanks,
Eric
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Old 09-18-2006, 08:46 AM   #19
ejh25
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I have Q about the wiring to the relay in the trunk:
I have a 4 gauge wire running to my amp that is fused near the battery in the engine compartment. I have a distribution block which has a 4 gauge inlet and 4 8 gauge outlets.
When I split the 8 gauge to the Hydramist should I fuse it again? Won't the fuse in the relay and the fuse on near the battery be sufficient?
Should I then connect the 8 gauge to a 16 gauge wire and then attach the spade to the 16 gauge wire to hookup to the Hydramist relay?

Thanks,
Eric
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Old 09-18-2006, 08:59 AM   #20
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How far is the fuse box away from the hydramist relay?

If it is shirter than 3 ft, just use a 16 gauge wire to the relay. The maximum guage wire the spade terminal can accomdate for the relay is 14 gauge.

There is already a 15A inline fuse betwen the relay and the pump. No harm in putting in another fuse link in the distribution block, if it is not too difficult.

Richard
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:05 AM   #21
ejh25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard L View Post
How far is the fuse box away from the hydramist relay?

If it is shirter than 3 ft, just use a 16 gauge wire to the relay. The maximum guage wire the spade terminal can accomdate for the relay is 14 gauge.

There is already a 15A inline fuse betwen the relay and the pump. No harm in putting in another fuse link in the distribution block, if it is not too difficult.

Richard
The distribution block is about 2 feet from the relay. I have some spare 14 gauge lying around, so I will use that. I'll look into finding another fuse.
Thanks,
Eric
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:15 AM   #22
Element Tuning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejh25 View Post
Phil,
Some pics would be fantastic...
Help me explain exactly what I'm looking for to someone at Home Depot or Lowes.
I saw aluminum bars that were 4' long, flat and maybe a few mils thick. They seemed like they would be extremely difficult to bend but if that's what I'm looking for then I can handle that.
Thanks,
Eric
Sorry I don't have any pics at this time. That sounds like the correct material. You will need at least a vice to bend it properly at 90 degree angles. Honestly it's very simple and took me all of 10 minutes to cut and bend up two brackets.

Adding an extra fuse would be overkill just stick with the two you already have.

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:31 AM   #23
ejh25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Element Tuning View Post
Sorry I don't have any pics at this time. That sounds like the correct material. You will need at least a vice to bend it properly at 90 degree angles. Honestly it's very simple and took me all of 10 minutes to cut and bend up two brackets.

Adding an extra fuse would be overkill just stick with the two you already have.

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
Phil,
Thanks for the tip....hopefully one night this week I can get the straps taken care of and take some pics!
- Eric
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Old 09-18-2006, 10:52 AM   #24
offset
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The float sensor ends in a two wire connector. I don't see a male version of that connector in the kit, so should I clip the end and run the wires to the junction box that way?

offset
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Old 09-18-2006, 11:05 AM   #25
ejh25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offset View Post
The float sensor ends in a two wire connector. I don't see a male version of that connector in the kit, so should I clip the end and run the wires to the junction box that way?

offset
Offset,
The male version is on the relay.
- Eric
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