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Old 04-22-2011, 10:34 PM   #26
cptmaggay08
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Followed this thread for my axle seal replacement on my 2007 Wrx 5-speed. This easily turned what could've been a 3 or 4 star task into a 1 or 2 star. Awesome writeup and very helpful!
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Old 11-24-2011, 04:19 PM   #27
aeonflux99
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Anyone have the SKU for the axle seal?
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:35 PM   #28
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:02 PM   #29
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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how to use the seal puller without gauging the aluminum when the puller rests on the aluminum as support?
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:50 PM   #30
outbacktim
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great info but i cant seem to get the seal out at all and chewing up the aluminum plz HELP!!!
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:33 PM   #31
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Success I used a thin piece of metal to protect the trans case and use as support to rest the seal puller and pry the seal out, piece of cake with the puller, amazing how easy it pulled the seal, I tried everything before with no sucess screwdrivers, pickers, etc $10 well spent.

Used one of the thread holes in the trans case to hold the protective thin metal bar.




Bent plate after it acted as support for the seal puller.


Aluminum unscathed thanks to metal plate.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 04-08-2012 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:22 AM   #32
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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pics added #31.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:07 AM   #33
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Nice work
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:13 PM   #34
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my STI had the leaky seal too. seems to be an inherent problem for STIs. i got this done at my local subaru tuner as i figured that it was tough getting the car lifted to a decent height.
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:37 PM   #35
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My bugeye is leaving little trans fluid puddles and I was told I am in need of these. Are these seals going bad a result of high mileage?
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:50 PM   #36
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The later 6 speeds are way easier to do vs. the early six speeds where the cover needs to be unscrewed. I cant emphasize enough that you need to determine which type of transmission you have and whether you need to unscrew this plate before you attempt to tackle this job.
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:48 PM   #37
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About to do this, wanted to say thanks for posting this DIY.
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Old 08-25-2012, 01:46 PM   #38
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Just got done doing the axle seal and boy was it a big PITA! For some reason my 2005 STI didn't have a pin in the axle so in order to make room for it I had to pretty much remove everything other then the control arm.

Fun times!

At least the axle popped out with ease using a pry bar. I was worried I'd need to put a lot of force on it, but nope, came out easily.
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:41 PM   #39
The Duke
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I've had this **** replaced 3 times by a Subaru dealer and it keeps dripping fluid. What recourse is there if the Aluminum is gouged. ****ed and only option is a new case?
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:53 PM   #40
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Try some gasket sealant on the outside of the seal only, I ended up using some on mine and no issues even though I put a light gouge on one side of mine when I was still learning my technique.
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:54 PM   #41
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I'd use some rtv. You can get a new plate if its gouged that bad... not an entire new case, but you'll want to pull the trans to make sure the lash is correct on the front diff.
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:05 PM   #42
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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sealant my ass, do it like a boss, drop trans and replace plates.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:31 PM   #43
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Might be better to use a pivoting-style seal puller, same one that works well on cam and crank seals.
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:11 PM   #44
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Trick with using the seal puller is hooking ONLY the seal, and pulling straight out, don't use the casing for leverage. Just get the corner of the seal and pull. I replaced the other axle seal yesterday, so now both front seals are done. Go figure 1 month after fixing one, the other one starts to leak =(

For the record, both sides look perfect metal wise, zero marks. That's with using jack stands and laying on the driveway. Just take your time and make sure you grab the seal and not the metal casing.

So a few pointers.

First off, if you jack up the car from one side only, you can easily do this job without losing any transmission oil. When you pop the axle out, nothing will come out, always better to left the car up evenly, but its nice to not have any fluid come out....

Without having a pin in the axle holding it to the axle stubs, you need to go at it differently than the OP. In order to get the axle out with ease, I'd recommend removing.

2 bolts on strut (MAKE SURE YOU MARK THE TOP ONE!!!!) put some touch up paint on it to mark it so you can put it back the same place (alignment issues)

Sway bar end bolt

Tie Rod End

Ball Joint

Remove the ABS line

Remove the bolt holding the brake line onto the strut to give yourself extra room.

If you feel like it, remove the calipers but thats not really needed.

Once all of that is removed and the hub is just sitting in the Ball Joint, use a prybar to pop out the axle, takes very little effort to get it to pop out. Once it's out, lift up on the hub so the ball joint comes out and pull it away from the car about 3-4 inches until that axle falls down on the transmission side. Place the hub back into the ball Joint hole so it can stay there.

Remove/Replace seal, Pull the hub back out 2-3 inches and with your free hand line up the axle into the hole being VERY CAREFUL to slide it in smoothly, and place the hub back onto the control arm/ball joint hole.

The tricky part is getting enough leverage on the backside of the axle near the transmission to thrust it back into the transmission so it "clicks" back into place.

In hindsight, it might have been easier to remove the axle nut and just simply push the axle out of the hub VS holding up and pulling the hub from the car while directing the axle where to go with the free hand. But than you'd need another axle nut and would have to deal with breaking the darn axle nut free, sometimes they can be a total #@$$@#$ even with a pipe extension and all your body weight on it. Also when they pop, the tool can fall out of place landing on your wheels =( Not good if you have nice wheels.

The tie rod end, you can back the nut out so it's flush with the bolt and smack it with a hammer.

The ball joint is super easy to get out using



$29 from sears.

Cliff notes, if you have stubless axles, this job gets a good bit harder, but still doable. You just need to make A LOT more room to get the axle out.
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:16 PM   #45
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When popping ball joints out, another option is to smack whatever the ball joint goes through.


I've had mixed luck with this, but I also use a much smaller hammer, IMO if you can get a puller onto the ball joint, USE IT! however the tie rod ends will not allow you to get a puller on them, either smack what it goes through or back the nut off to the very top of the bolt so its flush and smack it.

Last edited by jeffie7; 11-11-2012 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:56 AM   #46
Fatty_Patty
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nvm found it

Last edited by Fatty_Patty; 11-12-2012 at 10:32 AM. Reason: info
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:54 PM   #47
Fatty_Patty
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Just want to confirm for anybody wondering that the 2006 WRX is the same process. You do not need to remove the differential retainer to pull out the seal. For the WRX the seal looks like the old seal pictured in the original post, the one with the raised lip in the center. This caused me some confusion as to whether I had the right part or if I would need to remove the plate. I was having a pita time trying to get the passenger side in, so I put the old seal over the new one and pressed on it with a 36mm socket. The socket was not big enough to press the new seal without bending it, but the old seal over the new seal worked perfect.
Hope this helps anyone who was having trouble getting the seal to line up like I was.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:23 PM   #48
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Putting an old seal between the new one and the driving tool is a good thing to do. Works nicely on camshaft seals, which need to be driven so that the face is at the bottom of the chamfer.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:50 PM   #49
jeffie7
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I cut the lip off allowing it to fit directly over the old seal this allowed for me to use a large socket to help push it in, however I had the best luck using just my fingers to push it in.

Does anyone know what year the WRX non STI changed over from having to remove the cover and not having to remove the cover?
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:49 PM   #50
boostmasterflex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffie7 View Post
I cut the lip off allowing it to fit directly over the old seal this allowed for me to use a large socket to help push it in, however I had the best luck using just my fingers to push it in.

Does anyone know what year the WRX non STI changed over from having to remove the cover and not having to remove the cover?
I used my fingers also then made sure it was flush with a socket.
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