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Old 09-28-2006, 12:54 AM   #1
vipernj
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Member#: 86854
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Rockland, NY
Vehicle:
2004 fx35 02 Z06

Default 02 wrx. Which rear diff bushings? Check these out..

http://turninconcepts.com/index.php?..._9_7_20&page=2
since searching for answers to these questions came up dry..
what I wanted to know is... is this KLUNK KILLER KIT
the same as this

Rear diff bushings.

I know that the rear diff bushings are a good mod for stability. I have also heard (Crump) that shifting 1st to 2nd is better...

Now, the Klunk Killer setup.. I dont exactly understand what the point of them is.. sorry im a suspension noob... They also have a kit with Whiteline rear subframe bolts.. dont know what these do either... if someone can be kind enough to explain.. thanks
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Old 09-28-2006, 01:35 AM   #2
Turn in Concepts
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Member#: 93646
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Vehicle:
Many Track Records
Let us help you go fast!

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vipernj View Post
http://turninconcepts.com/index.php?..._9_7_20&page=2
since searching for answers to these questions came up dry..
what I wanted to know is... is this KLUNK KILLER KIT
the same as this

Rear diff bushings.

I know that the rear diff bushings are a good mod for stability. I have also heard (Crump) that shifting 1st to 2nd is better...

Now, the Klunk Killer setup.. I dont exactly understand what the point of them is.. sorry im a suspension noob... They also have a kit with Whiteline rear subframe bolts.. dont know what these do either... if someone can be kind enough to explain.. thanks

Ok, let me see if I can help you out here.

overall, we're talking about three parts in a variety of combinations.

1) Rear diff mount bushings
2) Rear subframe outrigger bushings
3) Rear subframe lock bolts

here's what each does:

1) rear diff mount bushings - take a look at how your rear diff is mounted. it's bolted to a dogbone with a couple of studs. That dogbone then slides into the rear subframe and gets bolted up. now, on each end of that dogbone are some bushings. The rear diff mount bushings replace those bushings. Take a look at the instructions on our site, and you'll see some pics of what I'm talking about. The purpose of replacing the bushings is to keep the rear diff from boucing around and slapping against the rear subframe.

2) Rear subframe outrigger bushings - Take a look at the shape of the rear subframe. it has these outriggers/arms sticking out at the front of it. The outrigger bushings (made by that stud Kartboy) do not replace the stock bushings. Instead they supplement what is already there. What they do is go above and below the outrigger attachment points. The purpose of adding these bushings is to cut down on the verticle motion of the front portion of the rear subframe, and keep it from slamming into the chassis at the attachment point. You can see pics of how it's set up by following the link on our site to Peaty's instructions on scoobymods.

3) The rear subframe lockbolts - these are really simple. when the car at the factory is assembled there are some locator bolts that are put into place to align and keep the rear subframe from moving. After assembly and alignment they remove those bolts thus allowing the rear subframe to "float" on the four bushings that are at the corners of the squarish portion of the rear subframe (This does not include the attachement for the outriggers). Now, in the interest of noise and comfort subaru used rubber bushings on the WRX and RS to isolate the rear subframe from the chassis (thus the "float"). the problem this creates when looking at performance stuff is the rear subframe will shift under extreme conditions. Since a number of the bits that control alignment in the rear are attached to that subframe that shift is bad as it causes changes to alignment dynamically, and you can't control it... unless you lock it into place. Thus, the lockbolts. They go in those factory assembly locations and stops the "float" action of the rear subframe.

Now, as for the bundles.

You could go a number of routes.

1) you can get any of the bushings just by themselves.
2) the Klunk Killer gets you the rear diff mount bushings and the outrigger bushings in one package
3) Unabomber's Sexy Rear End take the Klunk killer one step further and adds the subframe lockbolts to keep the assembly from shifting even more.

If you hit number 3, and still need more then it's time to start to replace trailing arm and lateral link bushings. A stiffer poly or spherical bearings would be the way to go.

If you STILL feel that's not enough then it's time to go with fully machined metal bushings for the rear diff, outriggers, subframe mounts, lock bolts, and spherical bearings for the trailing arms and lateral links.


Now, perhaps you can answer a couple of questions for me in exchange -

Why does Cartoon Network show PeeWee's Playhouse during adult swim? Is there some kind of new college drinking game involving this? The reason I'm asking is I didn't care much for it when it was on Saturday mornings, and I care for it less now.
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Old 09-28-2006, 01:49 AM   #3
vipernj
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 86854
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Rockland, NY
Vehicle:
2004 fx35 02 Z06

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post


Why does Cartoon Network show PeeWee's Playhouse during adult swim? Is there some kind of new college drinking game involving this? The reason I'm asking is I didn't care much for it when it was on Saturday mornings, and I care for it less now.

haha, i was just watching adult swim... i hate pee wees playhouse.. worst show ever. he looks like a dying make-upless clownn..

anyway, thank you for explaining everything. I think that choice 3 is the way im going... i think that'll be more than enough for me.. im ordering now.. so ship them already!!! oh, and thanks for the shifter bushings.. they feel noice!!!
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Old 09-28-2006, 02:07 AM   #4
Turn in Concepts
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Member#: 93646
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Vehicle:
Many Track Records
Let us help you go fast!

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vipernj View Post
haha, i was just watching adult swim... i hate pee wees playhouse.. worst show ever. he looks like a dying make-upless clownn..

anyway, thank you for explaining everything. I think that choice 3 is the way im going... i think that'll be more than enough for me.. im ordering now.. so ship them already!!! oh, and thanks for the shifter bushings.. they feel noice!!!
It's not me shipping this week. I'm in Chicago right now. Let me see if I can help you on this on too -

Hey Tony!!! Ship these out to this guy!!
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:14 PM   #5
92xScott
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Member#: 315054
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Medina, OH
Vehicle:
2005 Saab 92x Aero
Obsidian Pearl Black

Default

Sorry to bring back a thread. Would these be useful on an automatic car as well?
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:16 PM   #6
oaklandish_WRX
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Member#: 267339
Join Date: Dec 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: the 5 n dime, NORCAL
Vehicle:
2002 0[[XXXXoXXXX]]0
MBP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 92xScott View Post
Sorry to bring back a thread. Would these be useful on an automatic car as well?
Do you have an annoying klunk during (AT) gear changes? If yes, then it'll help.

If nothing else, I noticed a much more controlled rear end with just the subframe lockdown bolts installed; helped my wagon a lot in curves.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:00 AM   #7
dagger108
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Member#: 337743
Join Date: Nov 2012
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: SF Bay Area
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
WRC Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
Ok, let me see if I can help you out here.

overall, we're talking about three parts in a variety of combinations.

1) Rear diff mount bushings
2) Rear subframe outrigger bushings
3) Rear subframe lock bolts

here's what each does:

1) rear diff mount bushings - take a look at how your rear diff is mounted. it's bolted to a dogbone with a couple of studs. That dogbone then slides into the rear subframe and gets bolted up. now, on each end of that dogbone are some bushings. The rear diff mount bushings replace those bushings. Take a look at the instructions on our site, and you'll see some pics of what I'm talking about. The purpose of replacing the bushings is to keep the rear diff from boucing around and slapping against the rear subframe.

2) Rear subframe outrigger bushings - Take a look at the shape of the rear subframe. it has these outriggers/arms sticking out at the front of it. The outrigger bushings (made by that stud Kartboy) do not replace the stock bushings. Instead they supplement what is already there. What they do is go above and below the outrigger attachment points. The purpose of adding these bushings is to cut down on the verticle motion of the front portion of the rear subframe, and keep it from slamming into the chassis at the attachment point. You can see pics of how it's set up by following the link on our site to Peaty's instructions on scoobymods.

3) The rear subframe lockbolts - these are really simple. when the car at the factory is assembled there are some locator bolts that are put into place to align and keep the rear subframe from moving. After assembly and alignment they remove those bolts thus allowing the rear subframe to "float" on the four bushings that are at the corners of the squarish portion of the rear subframe (This does not include the attachement for the outriggers). Now, in the interest of noise and comfort subaru used rubber bushings on the WRX and RS to isolate the rear subframe from the chassis (thus the "float"). the problem this creates when looking at performance stuff is the rear subframe will shift under extreme conditions. Since a number of the bits that control alignment in the rear are attached to that subframe that shift is bad as it causes changes to alignment dynamically, and you can't control it... unless you lock it into place. Thus, the lockbolts. They go in those factory assembly locations and stops the "float" action of the rear subframe.

Now, as for the bundles.

You could go a number of routes.

1) you can get any of the bushings just by themselves.
2) the Klunk Killer gets you the rear diff mount bushings and the outrigger bushings in one package
3) Unabomber's Sexy Rear End take the Klunk killer one step further and adds the subframe lockbolts to keep the assembly from shifting even more.

If you hit number 3, and still need more then it's time to start to replace trailing arm and lateral link bushings. A stiffer poly or spherical bearings would be the way to go.

If you STILL feel that's not enough then it's time to go with fully machined metal bushings for the rear diff, outriggers, subframe mounts, lock bolts, and spherical bearings for the trailing arms and lateral links.


Now, perhaps you can answer a couple of questions for me in exchange -

Why does Cartoon Network show PeeWee's Playhouse during adult swim? Is there some kind of new college drinking game involving this? The reason I'm asking is I didn't care much for it when it was on Saturday mornings, and I care for it less now.
Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but looking for instructions.

I've got Peaty's instructions from scoobymods for the Kartboy rear subframe outrigger bushing but it seems that the link for the instructions to install the rear diff mount bushings has disappeared from your site during the recent remod. Are those instructions available somewhere?

Thanks for the great products and service.
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:49 AM   #8
oaklandish_WRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 267339
Join Date: Dec 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: the 5 n dime, NORCAL
Vehicle:
2002 0[[XXXXoXXXX]]0
MBP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dagger108 View Post

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but looking for instructions.

I've got Peaty's instructions from scoobymods for the Kartboy rear subframe outrigger bushing but it seems that the link for the instructions to install the rear diff mount bushings has disappeared from your site during the recent remod. Are those instructions available somewhere?

Thanks for the great products and service.
I might have a PDF of the instructions. It's really simple. PM me if interested.
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