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Old 11-05-2001, 05:46 AM   #1
yuzo
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Default just changed my oil

well i did my first oil change for this car--earlier i was planning on swithching to synthetic so before this i was letting jiffy lube do my oil (i have 7000 miles). well i was doing a search and had posted a thread about reg. dino oil vs. syn. and came to the conclusion that as long as i change it on a regular basis (like before it starts turning a brownish color), i'll be fine. plus i'm a little cheap. oh yeah and my honda tech friend said that under servere conditions, syn. won't protect your engine as much. i don't know.
oh yeah-the dumb store i went to only had castrol so i was stuck with that--no mobile one.
btw--subies are pretty easy cars to change your oil--your car could almost be slammed and you can still change it with out jacking up your car. all you have to do is stick your arm under and change it.
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Old 11-05-2001, 01:38 PM   #2
Richard L.
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I always do my own oil changes. Now with the fumoto oil drain valve, oil changes become more fun and less messy. Heck, I usually change my oil every 1000 miles. You actually let Jiffy Lube do your oil changes in the past? Bad bad bad!

Castrol GTX is a pretty good oil. I'm using Castrol GTX 10w-30 now, and no more piston slap at cold start up for me.

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Old 11-05-2001, 07:37 PM   #3
yuzo
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Talking

yeah i don't believe i did that. i'm also looking into the fumutomo oil plugs since everyone seems to be talking about them.
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Old 11-05-2001, 07:40 PM   #4
silverbullit
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did you also let jiffy lube do an engine flushing every 5000 miles, or how about a new air filter, you should also get your coolant flushed. I hate jiffy lube.
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Old 11-05-2001, 08:51 PM   #5
JustAnotherSquid
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Default Re: just changed my oil

Quote:
Originally posted by yuzo
oh yeah and my honda tech friend said that under servere conditions, syn. won't protect your engine as much.
????

You should never, ever listen to your Honda tech friend again.

JAS
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Old 11-06-2001, 04:48 AM   #6
yuzo
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Default Re: Re: just changed my oil

Quote:
Originally posted by JustAnotherSquid


????

You should never, ever listen to your Honda tech friend again.

JAS
hahha LOL i guess not huh
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Old 11-06-2001, 04:49 AM   #7
yuzo
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by silverbullit
did you also let jiffy lube do an engine flushing every 5000 miles, or how about a new air filter, you should also get your coolant flushed. I hate jiffy lube.
are you being sarcastic or are you for real. is it good and a less hassle for them to do that sort of stuff.
thanks -rosco
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Old 11-06-2001, 09:16 AM   #8
HIHO
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Changeing the oil every thousand miles is just stupid. And that Fumoto oil valve is trouble. It will leave little bits of stuff in the oil pan. All you have to do is change the oil every 3000-3500 miles. Weather its syn or dino. I am not convinced of the need for synthetic oil. I will stick with a good quality dino myself. Your Honda buddy is not WRONG.
Castrol oil is a name. It is a rollling contract that is picked up buy the highest bidder. It has been produced by several different companies to date. So your buying Castrol GTX and getting Valvoline.
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Old 11-06-2001, 12:49 PM   #9
JustAnotherSquid
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Quote:
Originally posted by HIHO
Your Honda buddy is not WRONG.
So you are saying that dino oil is better than synthetic under severe conditions? Mind backing that up?

JAS
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Old 11-06-2001, 12:52 PM   #10
HIHO
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What defines severe conditions?
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Old 11-06-2001, 01:24 PM   #11
Richard L.
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Quote:
Originally posted by HIHO
Changeing the oil every thousand miles is just stupid.
It might be stupid to you, but I don't see anything wrong with changing the oil earlier than the recommended interval. It's better to be early than late. Dino oil is less than $2 a quart anyway. By the way, it's "changing" without the "e", not "changeing".
Quote:
Weather its syn or dino.
And it's "whether", not weather.

You tend to lose your credibility when you can't spell.

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Old 11-06-2001, 01:32 PM   #12
JustAnotherSquid
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Quote:
Originally posted by HIHO
Changeing the oil every thousand miles is just stupid.
Actually, it's not at all. MCN did a three-part test of about 20 different oils (synths, semi-synths, and dinos of varying brands) and found that all oils began to show a decrease in viscosity at about the 1000 mile mark. After the 1000 mile mark, dino oils tended to lose viscosity at a greater rate than synthetics.

Also, dino oils tended to lose more of their volume due to evaporation and burn-off. Since different additives don't burn off at the same rate, this caused the chemistry of dino oils to be significantly different @ 3K miles then when fresh. Synthetics changed too, but again at a reduced rate.

Having said that, I still plan to go 3K in the WRX, and just use synthetics.

Order some back issues of MCN if you want to read all three parts. It's a fascinating study, and backed with much better information than "Changeing the oil every thousand miles is just stupid."

JAS
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Old 11-06-2001, 01:43 PM   #13
Richard L.
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Thanks, JAS.

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Old 11-06-2001, 02:20 PM   #14
HIHO
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Sorry I didn't know I was being graded. I'm at work and sometimes get in a hurry so yes I have a few typos. Keep the oil changed every 3000 miles. Thats all you have to do. Go head change the oil every 1000 hell, why not every 500 miles? Its funny how easily people get pissed off when they hear another persons opinion.
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Old 11-06-2001, 02:28 PM   #15
silverbullit
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Quote:
are you being sarcastic or are you for real. is it good and a less hassle for them to do that sort of stuff.
Jiffy lube not only puts the wrong viscosity oil in cars but I hate all that crap they try to sell you every time you go. I once had a guy tell me that I needed to change my air filter on my SE-R, he pulled it out and pointed out all the oil that was on the air filter. It was a K&N I put in that morning
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Old 11-06-2001, 04:29 PM   #16
Richard L.
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HIHO, sorry for being so harsh. I change my oil based on elapsed time (3 months), not elapsed mileage, since I do short trips daily to and from work. Short trips can be hard on oil. In three months, I usually put in 800 "severe" miles, which is a lot less than 3000 miles. This is why I like to change my oil early.

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Old 11-06-2001, 06:53 PM   #17
Audi RS4
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Default oils, hmmmm....?

Mobil One vs. Castrol... No difference. If It means anything the the companies with the highest specific outputs... New BMW M5/M3/M Roadster/Z8 all use Castrol, Hondas, RSX/S2000/NSX, etc. are big on Castrol too. Porsche uses Mobile One, SO WHAT! It really doesn't matter... I personally like synthetics better because I can be lazy with my oil changes. The extra additives in the synthetics gives me more time between oil changes. But sticking with 3000 mile intervals is a good idea, especially with a turbo vehicle. If it means anything BMW/Audi oil service intervals is 15,000 miles (thats right fifteen thousand, not hundred) and even more... Porsche intervals are at 30,000 miles (for all their vehicles, thats right, including the mighty 911 TURBO)!!! But stick with 3000, I try to, but 4-5000 is the norm for me. If you do like your BOOST (I know I do!), I guess every 1000 miles is fine. If you got the money, hey why not oil is like water to humans the more the better! Oh and for you anal specific people... I meant highest Naturally Aspirated vehicle outputs...
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Old 11-07-2001, 06:00 PM   #18
hkwan
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For those of you changing your own oil on the WRX - any luck from keeping the oil from squirking out when you unscrew your oil filter? I'm seeing oil, not dripping, running out, but squirking out due to what seems to be some type of residual pressure left in there. After 2 oil changes, seems like I've mastered the skill in minimizing oil spill on the garage floor, but I can't eliminate it. Any tricks from anyone? I'm glad the oil filter if facing downward. I can't imagine if the squirking happens on cars like Acura.

As for removal of the oil drain plug, I usually put the catch pan farther away from the drain hole because the oil kind of shoots out as well. Also, when the oil is draining, I go and jack up the driver side of the car as high as possible, that aids in getting more oil out of the oil pan on the WRX. Try that, with the car on level ground and the oil has seemed to be all dripped out, go and jack up the driver side, more oil pours out.
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Old 11-07-2001, 06:46 PM   #19
yuzo
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what i did was to loosed slowly the oil filter first, not take off, and then preceeded to take off the oil nut; followed by the filter.

btw, is it true your supposed to change your oil nut every time you change your oil?
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Old 11-07-2001, 06:49 PM   #20
yuzo
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Lightbulb

also try or try not to open your oil cap on top--this may or may not reduce the pressure in there. if you didn't get that, what i mean is to open the hood, open the oil cap, then proceed to change your oil from the bottom. if that doesn't work and your still speuing ? oil, then try not opening the oil cap first and see if you still get the squirts.
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Old 11-07-2001, 06:57 PM   #21
NotoriousWRX
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"it true your supposed to change your oil nut every time you change your oil?"

You're supposed to change the crush washer that's on the oil plug every time you change your oil, not the actual plug.
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Old 11-07-2001, 09:37 PM   #22
Audi RS4
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Default pressure problems...?

Always remove/loosen the oil filler cap to remove pressure before an oil change. Let the car sit for a couple mins. (very important!!!) after loosening to let the oil cool down an settle (for those who like to drive the car to get the oil piping hot before changing it... good way to get out more of the old/dirty oil!). Proceed to drain your oil, than slowly remove the oil filter, just loosen it first and let it sit for a min. than slowly twist it of completely, GOOD LUCK!
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Old 11-07-2001, 09:44 PM   #23
hkwan
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Default

You know, I might or might not have opened up the oil cap (don't remember) when I loosen the oil filter, but I have drained out the oil already from the oil pan before going to the oil filter. I would think by draining out the oil pan, all pressure would have been released. I always drain out the oil first, usually have the oil cap loosen take out already, before proceeding to changing the oil filter.
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Old 11-09-2001, 03:27 PM   #24
pakman916
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Default

Sorta like chugging a beer, huh?

Poke a hole on the bottom of the can, put mouth over hole, pop the can and you are in business.

Anyway, I haven't changed oil on my car before. I'd like to learn because it sounds so easy. Is anyone willing to give me step by step instructions on how to change my oil on the WRX? By the way, I ordered the fumoto oil valve. It's not that expensive and if it might make things easier, heck...why not. I've heard about 80% supporting the fumoto and 20% saying it has big flaws. Any thoughts?
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Old 11-11-2001, 11:55 PM   #25
wrxguy
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Default drain valve

I have just purchased one of those valves too. its not yet on.
The concept is really a smart thing and makes sense
the valve is a bit taller than a traditional plug. The body of it is
made of Brass.

The mechanics of it are basic. I cant forsee any hazards by
using it. It should be a time saver and be less twisting and turnig
for the arms and wrists.

BIG Flaws on this simple device?
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