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Old 12-11-2010, 05:39 PM   #1
brianglawson
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Default Urgent!! Looking for Good Control arm removal/install instructions!!!

So My car is on jackstands at the moment and I am changing my passenger side control arm (2004 Sti).

Sway bar disconnected)obviously

I have the rear control arm mount unbolted (obviously this meansmy subframe is loosened
I have the front control arm mount unbolted
I have the bolt on the bottom of the hub/spindle unbolted

How do I get this thing out????
Also, is anything going to come falling out

Id love to find some good pics of the process. I also have to remove my Strut/springs and dissassemble them to inspect the strut. Should i replace the contro arm first so the Hub/Spindle is attached by more than the axle/tierod???
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:02 PM   #2
tom@kartboy
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Old 12-11-2010, 10:43 PM   #3
MykuL
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Do one and then the other, the knuckle really shouldn't be supported by just the axle and/or tierod.

Just did this today; took a total of 2 hours start to finish, that's including "popping" balljoints out of the old and new arm. I tried to do it without removing the subframe but it just wasn't worth the hassle - remove it.

Starting from the rearmost bolts and going towards the front:

2 14mm bolts, loosen but DO NOT remove the rearmost ones, you'll slide the subrame out and down from these.

1 short 17mm bolt, followed by 2 longer 17mm, don't mix these up. Then at the front there is one 12mm bolt.

This is for one side, the other side has the same bolts. Remove all the 17mm's and the 2nd to last 14mm. After loosening the rearmost 14mm, loosen the 12mm's up front but PROP the subframe up as it will drop down. After that just wiggle the rear of it out of the 14mm bolts and lower it down.

After that it was a painless process. Loosen all the bolts first, then remove the nut on the sway bar endlink (you probably will have to put a hex key on the bolt and use a box wrench on the nut), then the long 17mm bolt on the crossmember (bolt side faces the front of the car), followed by the 19mm castle nut on the underside of the arm holding the ball joint in place. If your balljoint stud is fused in the arm, pop it out with a puller first. After it's loose, remove the 2 19mm bolts holding the bushing to the frame and it should come right out.

Per the service manual, torque the endlink first, then the crossmember bolt, THEN the 2 19mm bolts on the rear bushing. Make sure you torque these all at ride height!

Castlenut: 33ft/lbs
Rear bushing: 184ft/lbs
Crossmember: 77ish?ft/lbs
Endlink: Don't remember, sorry =(

I'm recalling these torque values from memory from this morning, they may be off.

Also, I just realized you're doing this install on an STi, this was done on my WRX this morning. Shouldn't be too different, but possibly different torque values.

Good luck,
Mike

Last edited by MykuL; 12-11-2010 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:30 AM   #4
brianglawson
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Thanks

Any more????

I cant get the Control arm lose at the Spindle
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:16 AM   #5
Jard
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Ugh.

I just did this yesterday too to take off both front knuckles on my '02 WRX.

Since I am replacing the balljoints, I didn't care about destroying them...makes it less stressful.

We kept the control arms connected to the car (front and rear mounts) and hammered a breaker bar through against the ball joint pinch area and the control arm. This forced the control arm loose from the bottom of the ball joint.

Then you could use this (http://turninconcepts.com/product_in...oducts_id=1134) to remove the ball joint and replace them both (not a bad idea, they are cheap).

I'm just saying I have never been able to do it without killing the ball joints so now I always plan to replace them.
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:08 PM   #6
brianglawson
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Got it!! $13 tool at Autozone... for once, an Autozone tool worked instead of broke!!!

I still can't get the control arm out though!! ugh..

SO I have the rear of the subframe loose, but not too loose..
When you say crossmember bolts, what are you refering too?
Basically i have the control arm COMPLETELY unbolted and still cant get it out. Whats in my way??? It is touching the subframe so I know that is what it is, but how do i remedy.. lol

Thanks
I dont have time to think...UGH!!! I'll be glad when finals are OVER and i get that nice law school acceptance letter...
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:35 PM   #7
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nice time just rent the tool at autozone.

is the balljoint sticking and not coming out?
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Old 12-13-2010, 12:02 AM   #8
MykuL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianglawson View Post
Got it!! $13 tool at Autozone... for once, an Autozone tool worked instead of broke!!!

I still can't get the control arm out though!! ugh..

SO I have the rear of the subframe loose, but not too loose..
When you say crossmember bolts, what are you refering too?
Basically i have the control arm COMPLETELY unbolted and still cant get it out. Whats in my way??? It is touching the subframe so I know that is what it is, but how do i remedy.. lol

Thanks
I dont have time to think...UGH!!! I'll be glad when finals are OVER and i get that nice law school acceptance letter...
So you popped the bottom of the balljoint out of the control arm? Nice satisfying BANG right?

And by crossmember bolts, I mean the bolts that are holding the control arm to the crossmember. There's 2 19mm bolts holding the rear bushing to the frame which I think you've loosened, the 19mm castlenut under the control arm holding it to the spindle, and a 17mm bolt holding the control arm to the crossmember.

And to answer your other question, the subframe is in the way. Where it mounts to the crossmember is essentially in a 5 sided cube right now if you don't drop the subframe out. Dropping the subframe frees up another side, and you can pull it right out; I promise.

See the attached image
Attached Images
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Old 12-13-2010, 12:48 PM   #9
brianglawson
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Yea, it was a good "pop!" haha
so I hae to lower the subframe on both sides, correct? or just the side I'm working on?
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Old 12-13-2010, 01:16 PM   #10
MykuL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianglawson View Post
Yea, it was a good "pop!" haha
so I hae to lower the subframe on both sides, correct? or just the side I'm working on?
Both sides, yeah. It's a big "U" shape, weighs a good deal too.
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Old 12-13-2010, 01:41 PM   #11
brianglawson
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Gotcha!, thanks for your help!! what a mess!
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:29 AM   #12
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Sti and WRX might be different. I worked on my control arms. The steel ones, like WRX, you have to get the trear traverse bushing out, meaning the subframe has to come out.

The Sti aluminum arms, you are able to unbolt the rear transverse bushing, together with it's rod, freeing the rear of the control arm without taking out the subframe. At least this is how it looks to me,

If you don't have to replace the rear bushing, the arm may come out without it in an Sti.
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:23 AM   #13
brianglawson
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put it back together in 20 min last night!!! once you know what your doing its a piece of cake
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:38 AM   #14
MykuL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianglawson View Post
put it back together in 20 min last night!!! once you know what your doing its a piece of cake
Exactly good job
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