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Old 07-03-2009, 12:56 AM   #1376
richde
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battery powered? any recommendations or any inexpensive one?
I have a Cateye, the previous version of this model:
http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.a...CYCLE+TAILIGHT

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Old 07-03-2009, 01:37 AM   #1377
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sweet, thanks. got that and another (need one for the kid trailer)
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Old 07-03-2009, 10:48 AM   #1378
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a little blurry, but heres my fleet.

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Old 07-05-2009, 09:39 AM   #1379
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how do you wash your bike after riding in the rain and lots of puddles? theres no mud, just paved roads and the usual dirt and grim. should i wash immediately or i can wait till tomorrow?
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:22 AM   #1380
industrial
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how do you wash your bike after riding in the rain and lots of puddles? theres no mud, just paved roads and the usual dirt and grim. should i wash immediately or i can wait till tomorrow?
I usually let it dry then brush it off and relube the next day.
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:13 AM   #1381
cvillesfinest
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yeah, i'd wait till its mud dries then brush it off and relube. nothing else to do. just dont spray your BB directly.
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:28 AM   #1382
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oh...alright, so just wait till bike is dry and whip off dirt and leaves and what not? i guess using a damp towel to clean is fine right?

what kind of lube should i get? is there a specific one?
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:30 AM   #1383
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another question. how easy is it to tune the bike? gear changes sucks on my bike. it doesnt go into the gear i want, and when it settles down after i shift, it will automatically jump another 2-3 gears. im wondering if theres anything i can do myself to fix it.
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Old 07-05-2009, 12:25 PM   #1384
PARANOID56
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Here's my bikes. The ever-expanding quiver.


seat seems a bit high for DH
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Old 07-05-2009, 02:26 PM   #1385
VpointVick
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another question. how easy is it to tune the bike? gear changes sucks on my bike. it doesnt go into the gear i want, and when it settles down after i shift, it will automatically jump another 2-3 gears. im wondering if theres anything i can do myself to fix it.
It's pretty easy once you get the hang of it, and no special tools are required beyond a 5mm allen.

http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

From your description, I'd say that you need new cables and housings.
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Old 07-05-2009, 05:07 PM   #1386
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actually, I'd try a good clean and lube first before anything. I see sooo many people ride with horribly dirty drive trains.

Then cable adjustments and finally derailleur adjustments. If that fails start switching out parts.

Your bike will love you if you learn at least the basics of proper bike maintenance.
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Old 07-05-2009, 08:48 PM   #1387
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
oh...alright, so just wait till bike is dry and whip off dirt and leaves and what not? i guess using a damp towel to clean is fine right?

what kind of lube should i get? is there a specific one?
I recently made the switch to White lightning dry.. it is much cleaner than the finish line stuff I used to use.
something like this:
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Old 07-05-2009, 08:49 PM   #1388
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seat seems a bit high for DH
seems like there's a bit too much front derailleur for DH
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Old 07-05-2009, 08:56 PM   #1389
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Originally Posted by VpointVick View Post
It's pretty easy once you get the hang of it, and no special tools are required beyond a 5mm allen.

http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

From your description, I'd say that you need new cables and housings.
+1.

Also, check out Park Tool's website at http://www.parktool.com/

They have tons of tutorials and how-to's.

As my own opinion for disaster999, as for maintenance, each biker is different. Some bikers soap and wash their bike each time. Some rarely do it at all. Some (sadly) never wash a dang thing. Dirt on the frame isn't going to matter much, but I give my mountain bike a scrub down maybe every three or so rides in the wet and muddy winter, and rarely in the dry summer. Even just a nice water wash down will be good. The main thing is to keep your drivetrain in good shape. Get a good chain scrubber, good lube, and learn how to clean your derailleurs, crank, bottom bracket, shifters, cables, etc. A clean and properly lubed drivetrain is key to good and safe riding.
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:14 PM   #1390
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+1.

Also, check out Park Tool's website at http://www.parktool.com/

They have tons of tutorials and how-to's.

As my own opinion for disaster999, as for maintenance, each biker is different. Some bikers soap and wash their bike each time. Some rarely do it at all. Some (sadly) never wash a dang thing. Dirt on the frame isn't going to matter much, but I give my mountain bike a scrub down maybe every three or so rides in the wet and muddy winter, and rarely in the dry summer. Even just a nice water wash down will be good. The main thing is to keep your drivetrain in good shape. Get a good chain scrubber, good lube, and learn how to clean your derailleurs, crank, bottom bracket, shifters, cables, etc. A clean and properly lubed drivetrain is key to good and safe riding.
Chain scrubber and cassette brush (park tools) have been awesome. I typically use an old toothbrush and very diluted water & dawn mixture to clean up the derailleurs and the rest of the drivetrain. Then I lubricate everything.

I try to lube each ride but I only do a big cleaning when I get decent amounts of mud and dirt on the bike.
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:19 PM   #1391
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^^

Yup, basically my routine as well. I've found that a toothbrush is awesome at cleaning my cassette.

I also do a routine of using a citrus-based cleaning for the chain scrubber, then rinse with water, dry with rag, and apply wet or dry lube (depending on season). It's amazing to see the different in shifting after finishing a muddy or dirty ride and cleaning everything up.
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:27 PM   #1392
Lamb155716
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I like simple green that comes in spray bottles at home depot.
got a shimano XT hub laced to a DT swiss 445D rim, now I just have to wait for the new fork RS is sending me
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:29 PM   #1393
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You all will enjoy this.

I'm selling a bunch of spare bike parts on craigslist. One of them was a Thompson Elite X4 stem. I post it as:

Thompson Elite X4 stem (1-1/8 x 0 x 50 x 31.8 173 grams) - $50

Some kid comes to buy it today. He steps inside, doesn't say a word, and puts a digital scale on the ground and puts the stem on it. Then he uses a ruler to measure the handlebar clamp diameter.

I'm like: since the ****ing stem has all the specs on the side of it AND the weight is listed on the Thompson website. And it's going on a Reign - not exactly a lightweight bike.

Then, of course, he offers me $40. Um, no.



****ing craigslist...
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:38 PM   #1394
elsanto
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I'll give you 2 dirty socks and an un-used innertube for it?
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:40 PM   #1395
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Originally Posted by Layman View Post
You all will enjoy this.

I'm selling a bunch of spare bike parts on craigslist. One of them was a Thompson Elite X4 stem. I post it as:

Thompson Elite X4 stem (1-1/8 x 0 x 50 x 31.8 173 grams) - $50

Some kid comes to buy it today. He steps inside, doesn't say a word, and puts a digital scale on the ground and puts the stem on it. Then he uses a ruler to measure the handlebar clamp diameter.

I'm like: since the ****ing stem has all the specs on the side of it AND the weight is listed on the Thompson website. And it's going on a Reign - not exactly a lightweight bike.

Then, of course, he offers me $40. Um, no.



****ing craigslist...
MTBR classifieds are nearly as bad. I had my lefty listed for $300 and some bastard offers me $225. Then, I have a stans 355 rim, DT Swiss Rev spokes, lefty hub w/ a Maxxis Crossmark tire on ebay with the starting bid at $100. Some joker messages me asking if I'd end the auction early at $100. The god damn rim goes for $80, spokes go for $40+, and the hub is $100. I'd like to at least get $150.
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:00 PM   #1396
PGT
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puts a digital scale on the ground and puts the stem on it.
well, was his scale accurate?

CL is hit or miss. Sold my wife's K2 road bike quickly and for 90% of asking price. I got 100% of asking price for my Cannondale but the guy emailed me the next day saying 'the rear shifting isn't working and the bike shop said it would be $250 to fix. I'd like a refund or split the cost of the repair with me'. I reminded him of my listing that said 'rear indexing is worn but shifts fine in friction mode'. Besides...you can get a new shift/brake/derailleur combo for $50 on eBay. $225 my ass....sold the bike for $400.
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:01 PM   #1397
Layman
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well, was his scale accurate?
Ha! It was indeed!
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:11 PM   #1398
Lamb155716
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finished rebuilding my beater



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Old 07-07-2009, 09:15 PM   #1399
PGT
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nice! the tensioner is b/c it doesn't have an EBB?

to convert a 27sp to a 1x9...just replace crank with a single crank? any need to shorten the chain or swap to a shorter cage rear derailleur?
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:25 PM   #1400
VpointVick
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nice! the tensioner is b/c it doesn't have an EBB?

to convert a 27sp to a 1x9...just replace crank with a single crank? any need to shorten the chain or swap to a shorter cage rear derailleur?
You could, but there's no need to.
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