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Old 04-23-2001, 12:35 AM   #1
uwrx
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Member#: 3834
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
WR Blue

Post Looking for good detail shop (WA)

Anyone had a good experience with a Bellevue/Redmond/Issaquah professional detail shop?

I'm looking for one with experience removing swirl marks.

Thanks.
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Old 05-19-2001, 11:24 PM   #2
Wreqs
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Member#: 6642
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Redmond, Washington, USA
Vehicle:
02 WRX AT sedan
Blue

Post

did you ever get help?
I used to be a pro and I recently got a variable speed buffer.
Not only would I fix your paint (for nothing) but I will teach you how to take care of it.
sleeping@oz.net


BTW, I'm never going to wash mine.
The cops love pulling me over to check it out, so I'm aiming for the stealthy look
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Old 05-20-2001, 10:46 AM   #3
snowone
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Member#: 6035
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: PNW!
Vehicle:
05 92-X Saabaru
GF8 05/06 STi

Post

I'd be stoked to learn some tricks o the trade from an old pro. My black GT gets washed every week, sometimes twice, and takes a beating during Winter travels w/ rack mounts dulling roof and such... I've been threatening to take it somewhere, but would prefer having the know how to do it correctly myself. That is, if you can tolerate having a Legacy in the same driveway w/ two WRX.
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Old 05-20-2001, 11:55 AM   #4
Ethan
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Member#: 246
Join Date: Sep 1999
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Hey last year my ski racks were scratching up my roof and stuff. So this year I went and got some vinyl and putting it under the feet of the rack. It worked great no scratches!
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Old 05-20-2001, 02:36 PM   #5
Pesca 555
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Member#: 6108
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Mercer Island, WA
Vehicle:
04 WRX
MY01 Saab 9-3 Viggen cvt

Post

Swirl marks...

On my non-subie, which is black, I use a lot of elbow grease.

What kind of wax are you using?

Remember these prefessionsl steps.

1. Wash - don't let soap dry on the paint
2. Dry immediately with good chamois or soft towel.
3. Use a clay bar to get crud out fo the paint.
4. Use a POLISH (not wax) to get the fine scratches out this is where it counts, to remove swirlies)
5. clean off the polish REALLY well (wash again, if necessary)
6. Wax/buff in small areas at a time.

All this should be done in a cool (not cold), shady spot, especially for darker colored cars.

Darker the paint, greater teh rewards.
After waxing, you should be able to run a piece of cellophane over the paint (cigarette pack wrapping is good), and not feel any braille.

If you have some loose cash, go to Griot's Garage and get:

Speedshine (gallon for best value), clay bar (lasts a good two years), Hand Polish, Best of show wax.

My other non-subie car is a 1993 model, and it gets so many "will you sell this to me, when the time comes?" comments.

Good luck, uwrx.
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Old 05-20-2001, 02:43 PM   #6
Pesca 555
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Member#: 6108
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Mercer Island, WA
Vehicle:
04 WRX
MY01 Saab 9-3 Viggen cvt

Thumbs up

Oh, also... If you can get a hold of him, get in touch with Charles Guidry at Phil Smart Benz. He is the BEST detailer in town - no contest. He drives a black Lexus coupe, and we refer to it as the Piano-Car (I'll let you imagine).

He's hard to get a hold of, but he'll make your car better than new - inside, outside, and under the hood (oh, and wheelwells, too!)...
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Old 05-20-2001, 10:11 PM   #7
Wreqs
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Member#: 6642
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Redmond, Washington, USA
Vehicle:
02 WRX AT sedan
Blue

Smile

Pesca 555 is right on.
Rule #1, the sun is your enemy, not just for washing, but for buffing, waxing and even windows!
Never do this stuff in the sun, you could at least make the job look bad (swirls) and worst, ruin the paint for good (stains).

Rule #2, elbow grease is the key.

I had a black 2 door tahoe (that I traded for my wrx). For a proper wash, buff and wax, 6 hours of work. I usually started with lots of energy and hope, and ran out of gas before the most important part, taking off the wax. But you must finish, leaving it for another time, unless your leaving it in a garage until you can finish it, is not an option. Black and blue are the worst, but with the right effort, the best looking, if you ask me.

Rule #3, don't wash your car unless you plan on buffing and waxing.
This really depends on what your after. I do this twice a year, early spring and late fall, when it's dry and 65 dgrees. My goal is to preserve the paint. I get satisfaction twice a year and when it comes time to sell it, not only will you have saved all that time and money washing it frequently, but you'll still have very good looking paint. Washing your car is the worst thing you can do to your paint!
If you must, always use clean cotton. Pressure rinse the best you can first, then use soap lightly. Get fresh towels and scrub a little harder. Like the man said, use a good clean chamois or cotton towels to dry in the shade, drive it around to flush out the puddles and dry those too.
The dirt on your car will act just like sandpaper when you wash it, be carefull not to pick up dirt from the skirt or from the wheelwells when your drying or waxing.

Don't write "wash me please" in the dirt, you will be reading it every time you wash it!

While your washing, don't just wipe around, looking for spots without suds, make an effort to cover every surface completely, like reading a page. That's how you avoid those embarassing dirt patches.
NEVER use an automatic car wash or the brushes at the do it yourself washes. Do you really want the dirt and gravel from the previous car rubbed into your paint?

prompty remove bird dooky, and bugs from a long trip, they can eat into and stain the paint for good.

How many times has overspray clay saved the day? besides overspray from paint, concrete sealant, bugs, tar, "some" scratches, pollen, sap, and who knows what else. it's the best.

Lastly, don't wax a black car in the sun and then drive it past me. It scars me for life! I want to chase you down with a buffer and fix it. then wring your neck.

If your not a perfectionist nutcase like me, it should cost you $100 to have it done right, after all, it will take most of a day and require lots of expensive goo.

After all, you live in the northwest, how long does a clean car last anyway....quality over quantity, I say.

As for the hands on help, I don't have a place to wash a car here at my apartment. I have a buffer, will travel, but lately my free time has been spent in the woods of snohomish county puting dirt on my car

my offer to help stands, let me know what you want to do, I don't work Fridays

<IMG SRC="http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/image_uploads/loop.jpg" border=0>


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Old 05-21-2001, 12:17 AM   #8
snowone
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Member#: 6035
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: PNW!
Vehicle:
05 92-X Saabaru
GF8 05/06 STi

Post

I used a piece of that 'stone-guard' type material on my wing, where it would contact the back of my box when the trunk was open. I'm going to put some under the towers of my racks for next Winter. Wish I would've thought about that in Oct '00... now I need to try and rub-out my mistake.

So what's the word, if Wreqs not down to give us all lessons, where should we go to get our money's worth in detailing services?


[This message has been edited by snowone (edited May 20, 2001).]
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Old 05-21-2001, 07:32 AM   #9
BaruDreams
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Member#: 3072
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Portland, OR USA
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Ahh Detailing,

Detailing is an art form, PERIOD! I detailed for a Mercedes-Benz dealer in Wilsonville for almost a year. In fact, I just started getting good at it when I quit.

First of all, it is tough. Yes, it should take a long time to do it right. I was a perfectionist and at times, spent several days on one car. Of course, I did the interior as well but my point is till clear, it takes a long time to do it right.

Second, you can't learn how to do it all in one day. It takes time and especially practice.

Third, you have to have the right tools. This is the hardest for me now. It is difficult working in a shop that has all the newest stuff and then try and go home and do it yourself with your bare hands.

Lastly, if the detail doesn't cost a lot, it isn't worth it. If you see a detail for $100 be wary. The details that we did were worth around $400. That would be perfection. We could probably charged more but we were hourly employees so it didn't matter much to our boss.

So if you live in Portland and want a detail, try Mercedes-Benz Wilsonville. Ask for Robert Schaefer. He make sure its done right. Oh, by the way, I really don't know how they feel about detailing non-mercedes vehicles anymore but you can ask.

-Steve
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Old 05-21-2001, 07:27 PM   #10
snowone
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Member#: 6035
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: PNW!
Vehicle:
05 92-X Saabaru
GF8 05/06 STi

Post

Damn Wreqs... guess I've wrecked my paint then.. 'cause I wash this car like it's my job, and haven't polished/waxed since I got it in OCT (With the exception of the nose prior to using my full front cover/bra).

I'm going to hunt down a local detailing shop, and get someone who can do it right to hook me up.

[edit SP]
Thanks for the info and the offer... I too am short on driveway space and time.

[This message has been edited by snowone (edited May 21, 2001).]
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Old 05-21-2001, 09:36 PM   #11
Wreqs
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Member#: 6642
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Redmond, Washington, USA
Vehicle:
02 WRX AT sedan
Blue

Post

If you like the way it looks, you haven't Wreqed it, but, without good wax, the sun sorta eats the paint and one day, when your washing it, the paint will start to .... well, leave

When I look at paint, I see something different than most. Look at your clean car in the sun. Look at a panel with the sun reflected off of it, from an angle....see all the scratches?
You can see it in flourescent light too if you try, that's actually what I use to finish the job, since any remaining wax will just smear in the sunlight.
like I said, I'm a nutcase......

A little secret, when you go to sell your car, after it's all clean, use black spraypaint (VERY CAREFULLY, no wind please) in the wheelwells, it makes a world of difference! Watch the overspray!
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