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Old 10-20-2006, 08:37 PM   #1
ScubaruImpreza05
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Wink Big 3'ed my car

...and I don't think it will catch fire!

All in 4-gauge, with an AGU fuse holder and 100 amp fuse. If I could get my digi camera to work, I'd post pictures. I didn't do the most professional job, but I used ring terminals and zip tie to keep wire from vibrating a hole in it.

My car doesn't dim AT ALL above idle RPM. At idle, it will dim a small bit with my system pushing the limits before distortion. So, basically at idle, 250 RMS of wattage almost doesn't register with high beams and foglights on Unfortunately, the mid cabin light shows a little dimming at idle, and it is really noticeable, but noone drives with that on normally.

Now, if my car doesn't light itself up over night, we'll be fine. Updates tomorrow
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Last edited by ScubaruImpreza05; 10-21-2006 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:02 PM   #2
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So did you add to the stock wiring? Or remove the stock wiring and replaced it with 4 AWG? Pics would be great, I really need to do this myself. I'm at around 500w RMS right now. With the stereo fairly loud and the heater and lights on my voltage gauge drops to about 12.5 at idle.
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:04 PM   #3
offset
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I would be really curious for people with voltmeters (external gauge, built into HU, or on the amps) to chime in with before and after readings as well on this. Anyway, work on that camera so you can get some pics up.

offset
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offset View Post
I would be really curious for people with voltmeters (external gauge, built into HU, or on the amps) to chime in with before and after readings as well on this. Anyway, work on that camera so you can get some pics up.

offset
I doubt my needle style gauge would be accurate enough to tell the difference. But someone with a digital readout should be able to tell pretty easily. I guess I should whip out the DMM for before and after measurements when I get around to doing this.
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Old 10-21-2006, 12:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khail19 View Post
I doubt my needle style gauge would be accurate enough to tell the difference. But someone with a digital readout should be able to tell pretty easily. I guess I should whip out the DMM for before and after measurements when I get around to doing this.
I need to do this and have a voltmeter, but ATM I only have about 10 feet of 4 AWG power wire. Is this enough?
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Old 10-21-2006, 11:43 AM   #6
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^offset, I wish I would have known. I have a built in voltmeter in the HU. Sorry. I'll take the pics right now, they will be up in a few minutes hopefully....

I know that before hand pushing my speakers dropped it into 12's. Now at fear of clipping, I got one instance as low as 13.4 at IDLE, with a norm idle w/o music jumping between 13.7-13.8

Thanks to that experiment, I get to ripp my door apart cause I heard a noise I don't like coming from the Mid's

EDIT: haha, I feel like a moron. The sound was actually my speakers telling me to turn my filters back on because disconnecting the battery reset all of my setting :blush:

Last edited by ScubaruImpreza05; 10-21-2006 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 10-21-2006, 12:23 PM   #7
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Default Pictures of my ghetto Big 3

How to do Big 3 for Subaru Imprezas. NOTE: This Big 3 is for a 2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i. The engine compartment seems to be the same for all 02+ NA Impreza. Turbocharged models may be different.
1. My 4 Gauge wire is transluscent black.
2. My ring terminals are Home Depot specials with yellow casings.
3. My chassis points are all bare metal. I cleaned them up with sandpaper and then after mounting terminals, covered them with vaseline to prevent corrosion.
4. I used heavy duty outdoor zip ties to hold my 4 gauge wires where I felt it needed. This was to prevent vibrations damage and to keep the engine bay a bit more organized.

Chassis to Engine Block Ground This is very basic. I just used the existing spot for 2 other grounds on the intake manifold. I pulled the two, and took a dremmel with an abrasion tool to it, then remounted everything.



Alternator POSITIVE to battery POSITIVE (3 pictures)
Picture one is a picture of How AWESOME Subaru was for completely separating the Alternator positive from any close ground out issue points. I just bolted the Ring terminal from my add-on wire underneath the existing ring terminal. NOTE: I Had to remove some plastic to fit my new yellow ring terminal, as it was too large to fit inside.



Picture two Shows how I mounted my Fuses to the battery...the Uber Ghetto way. Strips of outdoor use 2-sided tape work fine, as the way I ran my wire, it held the fuses there against the battery anyways. The tape was to prevent vibration or damage to either battery of the wire/fuse holders. The scosche is for the wire I ran (transluscent black).



Picture three Just shows how I ran the wire to the positive terminal. Note the ghetto black tape. I did not damage the wire, it is just there in case the hood is going to rub the wire against the top bracket holding the battery in. I'll be checking this regularly for uneven wear, if it occurrs.



Picture four Shows how I cut a slit in the boot to ensure a better fit for the positive terminal.



Battery Negative to chassis Ground

Here I have a top view for the Battery Negative to ground on chassis. As you can see, I just added onto the existing ground...the more the merrier . The view is bottom of picture=the front, top of picture = toward the firewall. NOTE: The pictures looks like my add-on wire dissappears, it doesn't. What I did was ran it under the wires between the fuse box and the battery, and brought it back up to the chassis ground point. In the following 2 pictures, the 2 yellow terminals you see are on the same wire, and the wire is only approximately 6 inches long.



This is an opposite view, top is towards the front of the car.



And finally, an overview picture of the whole engine for the 2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i



I hope this helps give people a reference point for the whole project

~Levi

Last edited by ScubaruImpreza05; 10-25-2006 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 10-21-2006, 12:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khail19 View Post
So did you add to the stock wiring? Or remove the stock wiring and replaced it with 4 AWG? Pics would be great, I really need to do this myself. I'm at around 500w RMS right now. With the stereo fairly loud and the heater and lights on my voltage gauge drops to about 12.5 at idle.
Khail, I added onto everything. My thought process was the more wire contacting these points, the better. I'll probably end up cleaning some of my work up, and adding 1 or 2 more shots of wire somewhere.


Quote:
Originally Posted by offset View Post
I would be really curious for people with voltmeters (external gauge, built into HU, or on the amps) to chime in with before and after readings as well on this. Anyway, work on that camera so you can get some pics up.

offset
I can always quickly disconnect my wiring and do the quick test. It's cold out, I'll do it on a warmer day. I'm going retake some pictures if I make this into a Subaru Big 3 thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02BlueSuperRoo View Post
I need to do this and have a voltmeter, but ATM I only have about 10 feet of 4 AWG power wire. Is this enough?
I probably used about 10 or so, I did not keep track. I believe actual wire used is more like 7 feet, but I did sloppy cuts and then trimmed down. It's better to have longer to start with, then too short right away.

Oh, and offset, here is the link for where I got my instructions. If you want, I can reconstruct this thread to make it like their post, but for subaru owners. Just let me know via PM if you want me to:

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152355

Thanks to JohnEcon for his sticky at CA.com forums

Last edited by ScubaruImpreza05; 10-21-2006 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 10-21-2006, 12:59 PM   #9
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nice job and lucky you it doesnt dim the lights. i just have the stock system with the upgraded sub (from the dealer) and my lights dim lol
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Old 10-21-2006, 04:56 PM   #10
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I'll be posting up an addition to this thread in a few days maybe. I'm doing the B3 on a 98 Legacy LE for the lady friend. So I'll have 2 car's worth of B3 info. Do my groundpoints work out for the guys who have experience with this?

Also, Offset, I was driving around testing voltage. With system blasting, defroster, ac high beams and fog lights on, the car dropped to as low as 13.6 @ 2500 RPMS. Normal voltage on car with everything off is 14.2-3
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Old 10-23-2006, 08:00 PM   #11
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just grabbed some spare 4AWG from work a few clips gonna do this tomorrow afternoon
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Old 10-24-2006, 01:24 PM   #12
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nice job, nice pics too! thanks a bunch those are some of the better pics of this mod i've seen, maybe it's b/c you don't have the turbo in the way jk lol
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Old 10-24-2006, 01:47 PM   #13
offset
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Nice updates and pics. PM sent.

offset
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Old 10-24-2006, 02:53 PM   #14
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Wouldn't like to be a pain, but isn't the engine block ground to chassis supposed to go to the firewall, behind the strut bar, for instance............??? Problem using the post you did is the contact between the front part of the car/chassis and the rest (where your amps are going to be/are) is very thin....

Please take a look here:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=big

and:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=big

(disregarding the part about the performance... )


Cheers,

MO
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Old 10-24-2006, 03:04 PM   #15
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^ ya, I know, I'm redoing this post and correcting mistakes. I've already talked to offset. Look for a full, official and correct Post in a few days.

Update: When I get time enough to make the thread I will, but this post is gonna get ugly because I'm storing some info here School and work = t3h Blow

For an information spot to organize:
Voltage Drop before Big 3 @:
idle: 11.8 lowest drop, with lots of jumping
@ 2500 RPMS: 12.3 Lowest drop, with some jumping.

After Big 3
Idle:13.4 Lowest drop
@ 2500 RPMS: 13.7 Lowest drop

Last edited by ScubaruImpreza05; 10-25-2006 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 10-24-2006, 03:50 PM   #16
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Wow, that's quite an improvement.
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Old 10-24-2006, 04:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaruImpreza05 View Post
^ ya, I know, I'm redoing this post and correcting mistakes. I've already talked to offset. Look for a full, official and correct Post in a few days.

For an information spot to organize:
Voltage Drop before Big 3 @:
idle: 11.8 lowest drop, with lots of jumping
@ 2500 RPMS: 12.3 Lowest drop, with some jumping.
After Big 3
Idle:13.4 Lowest drop
@ 2500 RPMS: 13.7 Lowest drop

Why did you talk to him, and not us all.........?




Good luck redoing it!


Cheers,

MO
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Old 10-25-2006, 08:13 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvorchard View Post
Why did you talk to him, and not us all.........?
It's more that I PM'ed him about it

offset
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Old 10-25-2006, 09:34 PM   #19
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Quick Q for the electrical guys: How does the alternator regulator work?

I'm asking because I now have 3 set values that my cars voltage works in while driving.
A.)Lowest drop is 13.7 at 2500
B.)Lowest drop is 13.5 at 2500
C.)Lowest drop is 13.2 at 2500

But, I notice, with each increment, the whole value is dropped/increased. Such as, if at 13.7 @ 2500RPM has a no load value (All extra ACC off) of 14.3 which it has, if I go to the 13.2 Lowest @2500, no-load value is 13.9 only a .2 difference, and the voltage jumps react the same in every situation.

So is the regulator on the alternator compensating for an easier charge system by lowering it's needs?

These set standards have cycled, with the 13.2 @ 2500 RPM's only showing up Once, but was constant for whole drive.

to the MAX
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Old 10-25-2006, 09:43 PM   #20
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not to be an ass... but its really messy..
You need a multi wire battery terminal from Tsunami or someplace else... also some loom would look nice..
Nice job on the install though.

Also, just a little cool top for the 4 gauge ring terminals... Instead of using the yellow surround that comes with it.. Take is off, then crimp the terminal onto the wire, then use a small piece of heatshrink to cover the bottom of the terminal to the wire.. looks MUCH better
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Old 10-25-2006, 09:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vipernj View Post
not to be an ass... but its really messy..
You need a multi wire battery terminal from Tsunami or someplace else... also some loom would look nice..
Nice job on the install though.

Also, just a little cool top for the 4 gauge ring terminals... Instead of using the yellow surround that comes with it.. Take is off, then crimp the terminal onto the wire, then use a small piece of heatshrink to cover the bottom of the terminal to the wire.. looks MUCH better
Great idea! Another thing I admittedly skimped on was gold terminals. I just got plain old Jane terminals as my budget was tight that week, and I am impatient sometimes

I actually have a Scosche terminal that has 1 - 1 gauge outlet, 1 - 4 gauge outlet, and 2 - 4 outlets, that I tried to use on My GF's car during the install. It didn't work too well. I will get one for my car, maybe go find one tomorrow and install it to satisfy you neatness freaks . The problem is I need 3 spaces that can handle 4 gauge inputs. I'm sure they make it, I just have to find one *cheap*
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Old 10-25-2006, 09:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaruImpreza05 View Post
Great idea! Another thing I admittedly skimped on was gold terminals. I just got plain old Jane terminals as my budget was tight that week, and I am impatient sometimes

I actually have a Scosche terminal that has 1 - 1 gauge outlet, 1 - 4 gauge outlet, and 2 - 4 outlets, that I tried to use on My GF's car during the install. It didn't work too well. I will get one for my car, maybe go find one tomorrow and install it to satisfy you neatness freaks . The problem is I need 3 spaces that can handle 4 gauge inputs. I'm sure they make it, I just have to find one *cheap*
cool! go to www.tsunamionline.com.. They have really, really nice terminals. I have them in all my cars. Its just a better idea.. Also, they have a really cool distribution top for an Optima battery.. check this out
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Old 10-25-2006, 10:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaruImpreza05 View Post
Quick Q for the electrical guys: How does the alternator regulator work?

I'm asking because I now have 3 set values that my cars voltage works in while driving.
A.)Lowest drop is 13.7 at 2500
B.)Lowest drop is 13.5 at 2500
C.)Lowest drop is 13.2 at 2500

But, I notice, with each increment, the whole value is dropped/increased. Such as, if at 13.7 @ 2500RPM has a no load value (All extra ACC off) of 14.3 which it has, if I go to the 13.2 Lowest @2500, no-load value is 13.9 only a .2 difference, and the voltage jumps react the same in every situation.

So is the regulator on the alternator compensating for an easier charge system by lowering it's needs?

These set standards have cycled, with the 13.2 @ 2500 RPM's only showing up Once, but was constant for whole drive.

to the MAX
I need this answered to make things easier as I gather info.

Also Vipernj, Tsunami makes good stuff, but I found what I needed through stinger. I ran up a 75.00 Bill Oh well. My post will be delayed a week or so, but hopefully you guys can wait
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Old 10-26-2006, 10:31 AM   #24
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Bump for the day crew. I'm hoping someone can tell me if this is normal for the regulator to do. Even theories will help.
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Old 10-26-2006, 04:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vipernj View Post
not to be an ass... but its really messy..
You need a multi wire battery terminal from Tsunami or someplace else... also some loom would look nice..
Nice job on the install though.

Also, just a little cool top for the 4 gauge ring terminals... Instead of using the yellow surround that comes with it.. Take is off, then crimp the terminal onto the wire, then use a small piece of heatshrink to cover the bottom of the terminal to the wire.. looks MUCH better
Because if it looks messy to one person it doesn't really matter if all the connections are sound and it actually works.

Interesting.

Last edited by Virrdog; 10-26-2006 at 04:59 PM.
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