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View Poll Results: Would you lift your STI up by the rear diff? | |||
Yes | 175 | 80.28% | |
No | 43 | 19.72% | |
Voters: 218. You may not vote on this poll |
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10-30-2006, 12:39 PM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
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Safest STI Jack Points
I've read a lot of threads on here about this subject and no one has said where they jack up their STI. I've seen Foresters, GC8's and WRX's but no STI's. I was just wondering if the same points apply to the STI even though it has a different rear diff than the others.
Someone had a PDF that looked like it was out of the owners manual to a forester where they said to jack it up by the rear diff. But i so no such thing in the STI owner's manual.
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10-30-2006, 01:03 PM | #2 |
Big Ron
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Same, same, there's pictures on www.scoobymods.com to help.
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10-30-2006, 01:39 PM | #3 |
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I've jacked mine up by the rear diff many times. No damage, no problems. Do it and don't worry.
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10-30-2006, 03:08 PM | #4 |
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I've heard it is bad for the bushings to leave it sitting on the diff, but I've certainly jacked my WRX up many times that way and then put stands under it.
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10-30-2006, 03:44 PM | #5 |
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Thanks for the feedback. What about the front jack point have you guys any feedback on use of that point? have you used it? what were the results? and i'm not completely sure on where it is. It is the large flat piece with multiple bolts on it, some of which holding on the so called "skid plate"
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11-01-2006, 11:23 PM | #6 |
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at my job i have to use a floor jack to get my car up on our lift(s).
i usually jack the rear at the dif and the front at the subframe where the tow hook bolts up to get the lift arms in position under the car. works for me, no problems so far! |
11-01-2006, 11:25 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
not to mention just leaving it jacked at the rear dif w/ no stands is f'n dangerous.......... |
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02-28-2007, 01:06 PM | #8 |
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bumpiddy bump bump
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02-28-2007, 01:07 PM | #9 |
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Update:
I lifted my STI by the rear diff, put it on jacks. Its 4 months later and everything's fine. |
02-28-2007, 01:32 PM | #10 |
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You may also want to try a pinch weld adapter for your floor jack. It's a little over $20 from Eastwoodco.com, part number 43042.
I recommend this little tool to anyone, as it lets you safely use a floor jack on the recommended jack points without damaging the pinch weld. Remember to always use jack stands, but with this you can get the car up in the air quickly and easily. |
02-28-2007, 02:48 PM | #11 | |
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02-28-2007, 04:06 PM | #12 |
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das ist sweet, yeah i've seen the pinch point adapters, might hafta look into getting some of them, or maybe i'll just buy a warehouse and put a few dozen lifts in it, and maybe 5 or 6 dyno's too.
....yeah, why not. |
02-28-2007, 04:07 PM | #13 |
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02-28-2007, 04:09 PM | #14 |
Scooby Specialist
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do you have anymore exploded assembly views for the scooby? I'm an engineer so these kinda things give me a boner
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02-28-2007, 04:56 PM | #15 |
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03-01-2007, 08:37 AM | #16 |
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, good i meant it to be
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06-05-2007, 05:39 PM | #17 |
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Sorry to bump an old thread..
But are there any safe jack points in the middle underneath the side skirt? At autox's, I always see people sticking the jack under the side of the car, and jacking up each side and swapping tires that way. Seems a lot quick doing one side at a time as opposed to left and right rear and then left and right front. |
06-08-2007, 12:48 PM | #18 |
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I've seen a guy jack up his 2006 TR at the middle and get both of his side wheels off the ground. So it is possible. He jacked it on the side right behind the pinch weld.
Don't hold me to this, I have never done it. I'm searching right now looking for the best/fastest way to swap my autocross tires for my street tires. |
06-09-2007, 08:13 AM | #19 | |
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Quote:
The Subaru repair manual states that you can safely jack-up the car at any of the four pinch welds (where the factory jack would go under the rocker skirts) and at the front jack-up plate and at the rear differential - all models of Impreza. I incidentally have already installed the rear differential protector which becomes the jacking point over the differential - STI owners, of course, cannot install the protector. Yesterday evening I rotated the tires and started by jacking the front of the car, then the rear. If you have lowered the car, added a front lip, or changed bumper covers that effectively lowers and closes the gap between the ground and the body, you will want to consider getting a set of 2"x6"x3' planks to drive the front of the car up onto. I have the V-Limited replica lip which of course lowers the front bumper a bit so I needed to use the planks as described. I have a set of wheel chocks that I placed at one of the rear tires and then released the parking brake - it makes lifting the car easier and does not compress/unspring the rear suspension as when the parking brake is engaged while lifting the vehicle. Also make sure that you are on ground that is more or less level. If you have any serious variations in the grade you may want to use a piece of plywood to shim the jack-stand(s) as necessary. Also if you are on asphalt, make sure to use a piece of ply-wood at each jack-stand because the weight of the car resting on the jack-stands can and sometimes do push them into the asphalt. I proceeded to use a 2-1/2 ton jack that has a short jacking radius. I used a block of wood on the cup and then proceeded to lift the front via the factory jacking plate. Once up, I have a set of "small" 3-ton jack stands that I used. First I moved the planks out from under the front wheels. Then I set the jack stands at one notch up and placed them under the front pinch welds (each side) and then lowered the car. Setting the jack stands in this manner allows for the minimum needed clearance to have the tires just off the ground. NOTE: Make sure that you center the jack-stands properly at each pinch weld location. Lifting the rear of the car is the same procedure as the front except that you lift the car via the differential, or protector if you have one. Once the car is off the ground and before you do any work, try to rock the car. If it doesn't move then you're pretty much ready to do your work. If the car moves, slips or, at the worst, comes off the jack-stands, you did a poor job in setting the car properly and in the worst case scenario, are now screwed. Remember: Safety First! When removing the lug-nuts, have someone help you by depressing the brake pedal so you can loosen them. Otherwise, break them loose slightly before jacking-up the car. This concludes this short session on how to jack-up your car. P.S., if you were Bender, you would be "Jacking-on", but you're not. Last edited by Big-E; 06-10-2007 at 08:43 AM. Reason: WHY NOT! |
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11-30-2008, 03:32 PM | #20 |
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Safest STI Jack Points
Anyone have any similar info on newer 2008 series STIs? I just swapped my Dunlops for Blizzak LM-25s and used a Hockey Puck in the jack cup to protect the undercarriage, worked like a charm and provides additional friction. Pinchweld adapter is a great idea, maybe dip it in that goo that you use on your steel tool handles to create a new grip.
Last edited by bullseye; 11-30-2008 at 10:47 PM. Reason: typo |
12-07-2008, 08:01 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
but i dunno about the 2008 sti jackpoints |
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12-07-2008, 08:19 PM | #22 |
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I have this on my aluminum jack
purchased from http://www.purems.com/products/product.php/II=833 along with some Protech jack stand covers. I have the Eastwood pinchweld adapter on my older craftsman weighs-a-ton jack. The Eastwood is a little bit wide to make a perfect fit (rubs a bit on the plastic bottom pieces) on the STi, but works well on the Forester. The Protech works better on the STi. The Protech is sort of an upgraded hockey puck. |
12-07-2008, 11:21 PM | #23 |
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the gd chassis is stiff enough to jack the front pinch weld point and get both wheels on one side up
i have rotated wheels many-many times by jacking the car only 2x...once for each side takes ~15 minutes |
12-08-2008, 10:16 AM | #24 | |
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12-16-2008, 11:24 AM | #25 | |
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Quote:
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