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Old 11-01-2006, 02:28 PM   #1
Wrinkleboi
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Default Winter Project: EJ207 tear down and build up *56k NO*

Figured I might as well keep an ongoing documentation of my little winter project. I just picked up an EJ207 that was hydrolocked and have begun tearing it down to see what the damage is. I have done a ton of work on Subies, but never actually torn down an engine so I'm taking things slow and taking lots of photos, for my own benefit and for others who may be in a similar situation.
I'm still unsure whether I want to stick with the 2.0 or go to a 2.5, but I'm honestly leaning toward an EJ257 with forged pistons to go with the EJ207 heads. I am really impressed with the GT30r, and feel its a great match for a daily driven 2.5L, but a bit much for the 2.0L. The debate goes on and on over which is the better platform, but personally I just think more displacement will be better for my needs. Its worth mentining that I will also be using an Aquamist 2D/DDS3 water injection kit with this setup, and most likely tuning with an Ecutek/UTEC combo.
Anyway, on with the photos...

Before starting, I either got the following items, or I should have gotten the following items:
-A divider tray to label and store bolts that may not be going back onto the engine for a while.
-A large flat pan, which fits under the entire engine stand. My oil pan will only fit on one side or the other, so catching drips has been an issue. The engine will drip... forever.
-10mm allen socket to remove cam sprocket bolts, they require a good bit of leverage so the allen socket is the ideal way to go.
-12mm, 12 point socket to remove the block bolts.
-14mm, 12 point socket to remove head studs.
-Long prybar to hold crank in place, and for general all purpose.
-1 1/8" wrench to hold cams while removing cam gear bolts
-14mm allen socket to remove access covers to get to wrist pins (or a 14mm bolt with 2 nuts locked onto each other, discussed below)
-I will continue to add to this as I realize what else I wish I had.

Full Photo Gallery (Updated 10/31/06): http://www.bryantroll.com/other/ej207/

Saturday, Oct. 28th: Went to pick up motor, and then went to pick up engine stand. Contrary to popular belief, you CAN pick up a Subaru longblock with 2 people. I wouldnt want to carry it very far, but to lift it out of a van and then lift it up to an engine stand was really no problem.


Sunday Oct. 29th: Took off clutch and flywheel. Picked up bolts to put the engine on the stand and got that in place. The alternator and AC condensor had already been pulled, so I removed the power steering pump. Then I removed intake manifold, risers, and fuel rails all in one piece. Removed wiring harness that was underneath.




Monday, Oct. 30th: Pulled off coolant crossover pipe and coolant and oil lines running across the top of the motor. The exhaust manifold had already been removed, so I pulled off the engine mounts, and then took off the oil pan. The oil fill tube is bolted onto the top of the motor with one bolt, and then held in to the oil pan by two o-rings and took a bit of force to wiggle out, but it did pop out. I used a flathead screwdriver and tapped it under the lip of the oil pan, and worked my way around until it was free. Took the baffle and oil pickup off to reveal the crank, rods, etc. Actually also pulled off one of the valve covers to check it out inside, but then put it back on to save for later.




Tuesday, Oct. 31st: Used a breaker bar to take off the crank pulley bolt (22mm). See photos to see how I held the flywheel side of the crank in place. I removed the timing belt cover and removed two of the camshaft sprockets before calling it a night.


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Last edited by Wrinkleboi; 11-03-2006 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 11-01-2006, 04:01 PM   #2
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my hands are b-e-a-utiful.
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Old 11-01-2006, 04:08 PM   #3
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Looks fun!!! that is exactly what I will be doing this weekend. I spun a rod bearing and bought a 2.5 short block and building it up.. We are starting friday night and by saturday night I will be driving it..
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Old 11-01-2006, 04:29 PM   #4
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your welcome on that tip about the intake cam gears . wouldn't want to take them suckas apart! good luck....
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Old 11-01-2006, 08:13 PM   #5
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looks like fun. just a little suggestion be very careful when you take off the cam gears. i managed to strip one of the bolts because it was torqed down so tight. appartently it is a common problem. took me forever to get the damn thing off but hopefully i will be driving my car again this weekend.
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Old 11-01-2006, 09:49 PM   #6
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infamous... yes thank you thank you. what is up with the intake cam gears anyway that they look so different from the exhaust cam gears. i am assuming its related to the AVCS?

jbwrx... dually noted. which gears did you have a problem with? any tips or tricks to avoid a potential problem? we got the exhaust cam gear bolts both loose using a 10mm allen key and a 1 foot pipe for extra leverage. no problems with those, and i'm planning to give the intake cam gears a shot very shortly.
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Old 11-01-2006, 10:58 PM   #7
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Hold the cam with a wrench. Obviously, 6 point sockets.
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Old 11-01-2006, 11:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdvma View Post
Hold the cam with a wrench. Obviously, 6 point sockets.

WHAT! I really hope you dont mean grip the actual camshaft with a wrench. That is a horrible idea.
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Old 11-02-2006, 12:04 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboL View Post
WHAT! I really hope you dont mean grip the actual camshaft with a wrench. That is a horrible idea.
im unfamiliar with subaru cams, but nissan cams you are supposed to hold it w/ an open ended wrench or monkey wrench...there is an actual portion of the cam that is hex shaped just for this
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Old 11-02-2006, 12:13 AM   #10
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actually youre supposed to use a subaru specific cam gear wrench. i think perrin sells one but a friend of mine is a subie mechanic so i lucked out and got to use his.

wrinkleboi no real pointers just have to be gentle with it. my problem was the bolt was so tight when i got a grip on it with some pliers i started to chip off parts of the gear with the wrench i was using to hold it. i had to cut the bolt and fold the washer part up to release the pressure. it was finger tight at that point. hope this doesnt happen to you. good luck man.
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Old 11-02-2006, 02:57 AM   #11
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well i got 3 of the cam gears off just by holding the flywheel in place, one was jumping teeth though so i stopped. the cam does in fact have a hex shape toward the front just inside of the head behind where the cam gear is basically. its big, like a 24mm or something. seems like the only way to break it loose... not surprised there's a specific tool for it but if i cant get one then hopefully a normal wrench is ok. not using any pliers anywhere though, haha.

here are some highlights from today...
took all the pulleys off except for the drivers side intake cam gear... the timing belt wouldnt hold it in place. ended up pulling off the passenger side head completely, and to my untrained eye i see nothing out of the ordinary so far.













again the full updated gallery is located at www.bryantroll.com/other/ej207
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Old 11-02-2006, 09:59 AM   #12
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yea the intake came gears look like that cuz of AVCS.

and if you decide to use a wrench.. it's 1 1/8 size.
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Old 11-02-2006, 12:06 PM   #13
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using a wrench is the proper way, is it not?

and after i got the passenger side head out i just placed the cams back into it because i wasnt sure how to properly store them. sound like a good idea?
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Old 11-02-2006, 01:19 PM   #14
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Woot! I love watching builds unfold. Can't wait to see the end results.

Yup, you sure can use the wrench. Just hold it tight, you wouldn't want it to slip & mar up the inside of the heads.
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Old 11-02-2006, 05:59 PM   #15
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hmmmmmm.......
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Old 11-02-2006, 06:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboL View Post
WHAT! I really hope you dont mean grip the actual camshaft with a wrench. That is a horrible idea.


YEEAAHHH

OOKAYYYY


No I really do mean grab the camshaft with a wrench. It doesn't kill the cam and there is a hex shaped "journal" just for this.
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Old 11-02-2006, 10:50 PM   #17
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subscribed for later.....
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Old 11-02-2006, 11:11 PM   #18
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stop being a girl and get the wrist pins out. the screwdriver will work well. Did you mark the buckets?
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Old 11-02-2006, 11:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrinkleboi View Post
using a wrench is the proper way, is it not?

and after i got the passenger side head out i just placed the cams back into it because i wasnt sure how to properly store them. sound like a good idea?
It's not THE proper way... but it's a way. Proper way is the subaru cam removal tool (cheaper alt. is the Cobb cam removal tool ). It holds the gear still which is less risky than the wrench on the cam obviously. But I have done that too.
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Old 11-02-2006, 11:54 PM   #20
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that cobb tool works rather well, something they make has to. Used it countless times already
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Old 11-03-2006, 02:15 AM   #21
Wrinkleboi
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eh, used a 1 1/8" open ended wrench and it was easy as pie. the price/use ratio on that thing for its lifetime is currently at $23/1, sweet.

now, i got the 14mm hex covers out of the front of the engine, and i havent been able to grab onto the wrist pins... are we fans of pulling them out with something that can catch the back lip from the front side, or punching through from the opposite side? i'll tell you now I need a better phillips head screwdriver to get the plates off of the backside before i do much of anything though... who puts screws on a motor? wtf.
anyway if anyone local has a tool to use or is a pro at getting the wrist pins i'll love you long time. and to clarify these are the newer style wrist pins which have a small inner diameter and a taper out to the outer diameter so there's really not much of a lip to grab onto at all, unfortunately.

i updated the photo gallery so check it, but i'll add highlight photos from the day later, too hungry now.
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Old 11-03-2006, 02:30 AM   #22
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Hey where did you get your GT35R from? I need to get only the anti-surge housing like you have on your turbo, i have the older style cover
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Old 11-03-2006, 02:40 AM   #23
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ha yeah i actually didnt mean to upload those in with the rest of the pics but i'm too lazy to pull them out until i get to the next update.
the GT35r came from Perrin and actually the entire rotated kit is for sale, but shipping would be a biatch.
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Old 11-03-2006, 03:32 AM   #24
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whoever it was at subaru who decided to bevel the outsides of the wristpins is a fckin idiot. older turbo subaru motors FTMFW
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Old 11-03-2006, 04:47 AM   #25
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just adding some pic highlights...

this is my little organizer. it was $5 at Lowes and i'm going back tomorrow to get 2 more. you should get one too, and write yourself little notes on what everythign is.


this is the 1 1/8" wrench on the hex shaped area of the cam... worked like a charm to hold it in place.


this is what to do if you dont have a 14mm allen key... use a 14mm bolt and two nuts locked down on each other. stick head of bolt into 14mm allen key and put wrench on the inside nut and turn counter clockwise. ta da.


and this is how close i am to having the whole thing torn down. hopefully tomorrow i'll be able to get the wrist pins and pistons out, and split the block once and for all. i do have the water and oil pumps off now, by the way.
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