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Old 11-03-2006, 08:13 AM   #26
ShaggyGT
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You need what is called an impact driver to get the screws out of the access plates. It has a big handle with a 3/8" drive on it and you hit it with a hammer and it will break bolts loose. You use the proper sized socket with a phillips head bit in that and they wll come right out.

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Old 11-03-2006, 10:53 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaggyGT View Post
You need what is called an impact driver to get the screws out of the access plates. It has a big handle with a 3/8" drive on it and you hit it with a hammer and it will break bolts loose. You use the proper sized socket with a phillips head bit in that and they wll come right out.

-Matt
^^^ impact driver is really the only way those screws will come out without stripping them out. Put some safety glasses on when/if you use them, the bits shatter quite often
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:51 AM   #28
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man i wish i had a lil extra room to do a build of my own.
good luck man!!
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:59 AM   #29
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an impact driver eh? hmmm...i got the small access cover off before on my ej22t just using a screwdriver, but I couldnt get the large cover off. guess its time for more tools bryan.
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Old 11-03-2006, 12:50 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooby2.0t View Post
man i wish i had a lil extra room to do a build of my own.
good luck man!!
it gets packed away in the corner every night and the other car gets parked in the garage. i mean i guess if you dont have a garage at all it'd be kinda tough but otherwise it doesnt take up too much room in the corner.



thanks for the info about the impact socket, going to get one of those today. once i have those off maybe i can punch the wrist pins out from the opposite side, otherwise i might break down and take the block to the dealership i'm in good with to throw one of the techs a few bucks to pull the wrist pins out with their ST. i hate to do that just out of principle, but yeah, the tapered wrist pins dont leave much room for a ghettofabulous rigged up tool here.
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Old 11-03-2006, 04:10 PM   #31
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Yea the access hex plugs are BITCHES. Some hard core loctite on them. The double nut thing worked for 2 of the 4 (i think there's 4)... the other I had my girl go to the Subaru parts/servcie to pick up some parts and had her flirt w/a mechanic and he lent her a 1/2" drive 14mm hex socket. Easy as pie after that.
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Old 11-03-2006, 07:27 PM   #32
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Once you have the covers off it will be very easy to tap the pins out. The impact driver will make short work of the screws.

Rich
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Old 11-03-2006, 08:17 PM   #33
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are you saying to tap them through from the opposite side? i bought a 16" long very thin craftsman flathead screwdriver today, which i now realize is way longer than it needed to be, but it should do the job just the same.
i'm still having a hard time visualizing how i'm going to feed the screwdriver through the very small hole on say the passenger rear wrist pin and be able to position it correctly to punch the passenger front wrist pin out. just sounds like really tight tolerances and blind guessing, but if the pros say thats the way to go then thats what i'll try.
i will have an impact driver tonight so that should take care of the one issue and i can move forward with my new super long super skinny screwdriver/punch.
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Old 11-03-2006, 08:59 PM   #34
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Another thing I will need to know is if there is a proper sequence for removing the bolts that hold the block halves together. It looks like there are 4 on one side and 2 on the other, and then the outer case bolts as well.
Thanks!
Bryan
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:16 AM   #35
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bryan there are 4 on one side and 6 on the other. These are the 12mm 12-point bolts. The drivers side has two inside of the block and two on the front by the oil pump. The passenger side has four inside the block and two on the rear under the oil galley plug.

There are 5 on top of the block, one on the underside of the block in the oilpan area. Anda few on the front where the oil pump is. And one in the back where the flywheel goes. MAKE SURE you get them alll out, very importante.

As for taking them out i was told to work inside to outside but use small turns, just like the heads. hope this helps.
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Old 11-04-2006, 11:49 AM   #36
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Here.... from an STI though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subaru FSM
26) Similarly remove the piston pins from #3 and #4
pistons.
27) Remove the bolts which connect the cylinder
block on the side of #2 and #4 cylinders.
28) Back off the bolts which connect the cylinder
block on the side of #1 and #3 cylinders two or
three turns.
29) Set up the cylinder block so that #1 and #3 cylinders
are on the upper side, then remove the cylinder
block connecting bolts.
30) Separate the cylinder blocks (LH) and (RH).
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Old 11-04-2006, 09:37 PM   #37
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The wrist pins come out just fine. You need to figure out the best way to remove them though I've removed them on about 5 motors now in the last two years.
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Old 11-04-2006, 09:42 PM   #38
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what exactly is the best way to remove them??! haha damnit. i was busy all day today so didnt touch the motor. i do have an impact socket in hand now so at least i should be able to get all the access plugs out.
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Old 11-09-2006, 12:42 PM   #39
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OK after a short hiatus I was back in the garage last night, and after a long night got the block apart completely.
Diagnosis: spun rod bearing. Its a shame, but its what I expected and for the price I paid for the block I more than made out for just the heads alone.

What I figured out about the wrist pins is you dont want to line them up with the access holes exactly. You want to get them just very slightly off center so that the pin still barely has room to slide out of the access hole but so that on the other side the rod moves out of the way just enough to slide a nice long thin screwdriver through and tap the wrist pin out. When things are lined up perfectly it doesnt work because the rod is front and center, and completely in the way of feeding the screwdriver through to the other side. I took a photo of the way I had mine oriented and the amount of clearance it gave me... not much, but enough to tap the pins out from the opposite side.

After that I carefully pulled out the block bolts (dont forget about the one on the underside, the one on bottom of the bellhousing, and the one on the bottom in the front). We used a putty knife and a thin flathead screwdriver to work out way around the entire seal of the block and it took a little time but all in all was pretty cooperative in separating.

As always, see ALL the photos at www.bryantroll.com/other/ej207
I'm only posting a handful here so check for more detail shots and others at the link.

Some photos of the highlights of the day, with a couple questions:

the drivers front and passenger front rods were stiff enough on the crank that they stuck in place. i could move them with my hand easily enough but they were not loose enough to fall down under their own weight. is that normal? neither of these were the cylinders with the spun bearing although there was some buildup on each of the bearings it looked like. 'stuck in position' on left, free moving on right:


buildup:


my mentally unstable master mechanic right hand man splitting the block with a putty knife and hammer (at 2am, wow loud banging!)


houston, we have lift off


never seen one before, but if i had to guess what a spun bearing looked like...


crank where the bearing spun. feels smooth, but looks a little different...


bottom is where the bearing spun


victory is mine
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Old 11-09-2006, 01:27 PM   #40
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good job, looks alot like my motor right now except my broken bearing was about half the size of yours
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Old 11-09-2006, 02:41 PM   #41
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That buildup bearing pic is from the tight fitting rod, right? That bearing definitely appears to have had some scuffing, so that likely explains why it's stiff. The rods should move freely.
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Old 11-09-2006, 04:48 PM   #42
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Oh so familiar,except mines a EJ205





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Old 11-09-2006, 06:24 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drees View Post
That buildup bearing pic is from the tight fitting rod, right? That bearing definitely appears to have had some scuffing, so that likely explains why it's stiff. The rods should move freely.
if i were to number the rods from front to back, 1 to 4, then the bearings with the buildup on them were number 1 and 2, and those were the rods that were slightly stiff on the crank. you can look at the crank to see how its doing in those areas, but it looks fine to my untrained eye.
the bearing that was spun was number 4, and it was quite loose on the crank, understandably.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2K4 STI View Post

my oil pan looked kinda like that but only about half as brown / grimey... is that fine metal shavings from the bearing or is that how its supposed to look?
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Old 11-09-2006, 06:59 PM   #44
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yep my pan looks exactly like that also, lots of shavings. linking since the picture is big

http://danavon7.home.comcast.net/apart14.jpg
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Old 11-09-2006, 07:14 PM   #45
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wow those silver pieces are shavings? damn... mine didnt look like that, just the black oil with a little bit of brown streaking in it.
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Old 11-09-2006, 07:57 PM   #46
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Quote:
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wow those silver pieces are shavings? damn... mine didnt look like that, just the black oil with a little bit of brown streaking in it.
thats probably because most of your rod bearing was still together and only a little chipped away. when my rods came out only half the bearing was there, other half completely gone and broke into tiny pieces.
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:08 PM   #47
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that crank is trashed man
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:12 PM   #48
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based on just the photos the machine shop said it might just need a polish but would probably need a .010 cut and it should be good, but of course they want to see it in person before they give me any hard info.
we'll see... like i said i'm probably just going with a 257 shortblock and may be selling the shortblock components as is to someone interested in rebuilding.
bryan
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:16 PM   #49
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Doesnt look that great.....I did the same thing......Damn rod bearings
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:26 PM   #50
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damn I look good. well its time for the machine shop to do its magic.
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