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Old 11-10-2006, 01:39 PM   #1
M3NACE
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Default Quick Code Question

Got in the car this morning - check engine light - came on. Plugged in the AP and it read code PO302 (2nd cylinder missfire I believe). I've done a search and figured out what it meant.

Anyways, the light is still on, but the car runs great, no hesitations or weird noises, so im assuming it must of misfired once, threw the code, and now it just needs to be cleared.

Can I clear the code myself?

Do I reflash the ECU, then re-run the 20psi map thats i've been running on the AccessPORT - will that work?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Micah
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Old 11-10-2006, 02:01 PM   #2
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you can clear the code with the reset ecu feature on the AP, that is what is what i suggest doing. see if it comes back.
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Old 11-10-2006, 02:08 PM   #3
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i had a random misfire once during a 1,000 mile road trip, i could feel it misfire 2 or 3 times, cleared the code and never came back

but wouldn't hurt to check your spark plugs, see of the coil packs are properly seated, etc
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Old 11-10-2006, 02:09 PM   #4
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true, never hurts to take a peak at the plugs, but i would reset first and see if it comes back before digging the pugs out.
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Old 11-10-2006, 02:25 PM   #5
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Now that you know what it is, reset the fault code and see if it comes back.

My personal observation is that 9 out of 10 misfire codes seem to be tied to fouled spark plugs in these cars.
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Old 11-10-2006, 02:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prometheum View Post
i had a random misfire once during a 1,000 mile road trip, i could feel it misfire 2 or 3 times, cleared the code and never came back

but wouldn't hurt to check your spark plugs, see of the coil packs are properly seated, etc
It sounds reasonable to check the plugs, but they were replaced like 1500 miles ago, and havent given me any trouble since, so this could have just been a random mis-fire that threw the code.

So I just reset the ECU and run the 20psi map again and all will be good?
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Old 11-10-2006, 02:49 PM   #7
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if the 20psi map is your basemap, no need to reload it. just reset the ecu.
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Old 11-10-2006, 05:30 PM   #8
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Alright, well I reset the thing, turned it back on, sputtered a bit, loaded the 20psi map and all is well, no more code, so it must of been a one time thing.

Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 11-11-2006, 11:54 AM   #9
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Last night, after a total of about 150 miles of driving throughout the day, I was pulling out of a parking lot and the engine light popped on.

I hooked up the Accessport and checked the code, this time it was PO301, cylinder #1 misfire I believe.

What would be causing this?

I mean its not like it comes on alll the time, but I was able to drive around for quite a while and it came up. Yesterday morning when it came up the first time it was as I was pulling out of my driveway, low RPM, and last night pulling out of a parking lot, low RPM.

Any ideas? Is a misfire bad for my engine - is it like predetonation or does it just mean the piston did not fire when it was supposed to?

Thanks for any help
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Old 11-11-2006, 07:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3NACE View Post
Last night, after a total of about 150 miles of driving throughout the day, I was pulling out of a parking lot and the engine light popped on.

I hooked up the Accessport and checked the code, this time it was PO301, cylinder #1 misfire I believe.

What would be causing this?

I mean its not like it comes on alll the time, but I was able to drive around for quite a while and it came up. Yesterday morning when it came up the first time it was as I was pulling out of my driveway, low RPM, and last night pulling out of a parking lot, low RPM.

Any ideas? Is a misfire bad for my engine - is it like predetonation or does it just mean the piston did not fire when it was supposed to?

Thanks for any help
2 types of misfire
one is caused by the spark plug not firing when it is supposed to, which will toast your cat/turbo
the other is caused by the fuel injector not spraying
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Old 11-11-2006, 08:18 PM   #11
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what kind of plugs, and what were they gapped to?
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Old 11-11-2006, 11:45 PM   #12
M3NACE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondaeater69 View Post
what kind of plugs, and what were they gapped to?
Not sure the type of plugs, i'll find out in the morning, but the previous owner said he changed them like 1500-2000 miles ago, and that they're a step colder (also that they were about $60, so they must be high quality). Im running an 18G by the way. I assume they're properly gapped. Also, it has new 750cc (3k miles ago) injectors.

Its just kind of weird that it only does it once every several hours, and not like every few minutes, or per revolution.
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Old 11-12-2006, 09:57 AM   #13
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i vote it's the plugs. plull them, find out what kind they are and how they're gapped.
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Old 11-12-2006, 01:41 PM   #14
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Havent pulled them yet, looks like its a PITA to get them out, but I did get the box they came in:

Denso Iridium Power, U-Groove Tapered cut, Ultra-Fine, .4mm iridium.

I10
IK22#4
5319#4

I hope this information is helpful, like I said earlier, they're a step colder than the stock plugs, could this play any sort of role?

BTW, should I just avoid driving it until I figure out whats wrong, or do you think its ok to drive since its not misfiring that much?

Thanks again for the help guys.

Micah
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Old 11-12-2006, 02:03 PM   #15
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DO NOT **** with the gap on those plugs or you will make paperweights outa them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-12-2006, 02:33 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
DO NOT **** with the gap on those plugs or you will make paperweights outa them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, if thats the case, then I dont think the previous owner tried to gap them. Or he did and realy 'fooked' them up?

What do you guys think?

BTW, everytime I reset the ECU, does that 'count' as a reflash, or does it only reflash if I load a new map? I hear you can only do that about 100 times on the stock ECU, so each time I reset the code, does that take one reflash away from the 100?
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Old 11-12-2006, 03:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3NACE View Post
Yeah, if thats the case, then I dont think the previous owner tried to gap them. Or he did and realy 'fooked' them up?

What do you guys think?

BTW, everytime I reset the ECU, does that 'count' as a reflash, or does it only reflash if I load a new map? I hear you can only do that about 100 times on the stock ECU, so each time I reset the code, does that take one reflash away from the 100?
no resetting the ecu is not a reflash
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Old 11-12-2006, 03:37 PM   #18
M3NACE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prometheum View Post
no resetting the ecu is not a reflash

Ok just making sure that im not wasting my 'reflashes' everytime I reset the damn code...


Anyone have input on the specific plugs that are being used, asides for the fact that they shouldnt be gapped?
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Old 11-12-2006, 05:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3NACE View Post
Yeah, if thats the case, then I dont think the previous owner tried to gap them. Or he did and realy 'fooked' them up?

What do you guys think?

BTW, everytime I reset the ECU, does that 'count' as a reflash, or does it only reflash if I load a new map? I hear you can only do that about 100 times on the stock ECU, so each time I reset the code, does that take one reflash away from the 100?
Go buy a set of $2/ea NGK BKR7E plugs...gap them .028" - .030"......install them and see if yer misfire goes away
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Old 11-12-2006, 07:44 PM   #20
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i agree, get a cheap set of ngk coppers and throw'em in. chances are those are either the wrong plugs, or the gap got messed up. i don't know what that type of iridium is for, i just run plain ole coppers and change'em every 25K or so. I think on a car with as many mods as yours (as well as mind) one should be looking at the plugs fairly often but that's just my HO.

and they're not that hard to get to, just remove the air box on the one side and the washer tank on the other side and they're a walk in the park. people make more out of doing plugs then they actually are... even my green ass can do'em
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Old 11-12-2006, 09:00 PM   #21
M3NACE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondaeater69 View Post
i agree, get a cheap set of ngk coppers and throw'em in. chances are those are either the wrong plugs, or the gap got messed up. i don't know what that type of iridium is for, i just run plain ole coppers and change'em every 25K or so. I think on a car with as many mods as yours (as well as mind) one should be looking at the plugs fairly often but that's just my HO.

and they're not that hard to get to, just remove the air box on the one side and the washer tank on the other side and they're a walk in the park. people make more out of doing plugs then they actually are... even my green ass can do'em

Sounds great, thats what i'll do. BTW, are the plugs listed above a step colder than the stock ones, how important is this, and are you positive on the numbers, i'd hate to get the wrong ones a second time!
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Old 11-12-2006, 09:02 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by M3NACE View Post
Sounds great, thats what i'll do. BTW, are the plugs listed above a step colder than the stock ones, how important is this, and are you positive on the numbers, i'd hate to get the wrong ones a second time!
NGK BKR7E(NGK stock #6097) is one step colder and that plug gapped as posted above is what ya want, no doubt.
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Old 11-12-2006, 11:33 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
NGK BKR7E(NGK stock #6097) is one step colder and that plug gapped as posted above is what ya want, no doubt.
Thanks, i'll see able tackling the job this week, i'll let you all know what happends.
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Old 11-13-2006, 09:10 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
NGK BKR7E(NGK stock #6097) is one step colder and that plug gapped as posted above is what ya want, no doubt.

Alright,
I just finished a minute ago, got the plugs you reccomended (only $1.77 each ), gapped them to about .030" and installed them. It fired right up, I reset the ECU and we'll see if the CEL light stays off in the new couple drives!

I'll keep you guys updated. Hopefully this fixes the problem.
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Old 11-13-2006, 11:35 PM   #25
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how did the other plugs look?????
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