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Old 12-08-2006, 06:55 AM   #26
subikid
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Thanks! And one more thing- my stock 05 rs exhaust is 2.5, right?

Kevin
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Old 12-08-2006, 10:43 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subikid View Post
Thanks! And one more thing- my stock 05 rs exhaust is 2.5, right?

Kevin
For you, stock is around = 2 1/8"

However, most aftermarket cat backs for RS's are around 2 3/8" to 2.5"

You should ask the guys in the N/A forum about this. Remembering back to when I had my RS, I would recommend putting it in the "L" shaped cat pipe that goes between your header and cat back. IIRC, you used to be able to find those cat delete pipes on ebay pretty cheap.

Also, I'm not sure that an N/A car would really make any power with a cutout due to the fact that it would completely eliminate back pressure which is needed for an N/A valvetrain.

I highly recommend posting a question in the N/A forum and see what they say.
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Old 12-15-2006, 11:59 PM   #28
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Anyone know about a cutout for NA?
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Old 12-21-2006, 06:29 PM   #29
lostintheforest
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i had one on my 1.8t gti but i mounted far back after the cats so i didnt see much of a gain but i loved the concept. Now ive been eyeballing the qtp downpipe for my xt and was wondering,you always hear people talk about exhaust valves getting burnt out from wide open exhaust im wondering if this would apply to a cutout in the DP??
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Old 12-29-2006, 06:16 PM   #30
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Hey guys,
I went ALL OUT on my cutout. I bought a BadlanzHPE cutout with Y-pipe and extension at the end. I had it welded into my TurboXS 3" Racepipe which sits right below the shifter assembly.

I had a 5" heat shield welded to the end to keep the car safe and a skidplate welded under the motor flange so it would not catch on anything (being the lowest point of the car).
Then I coated the entire pipe with high temp black BBQ paint to protect the welds from rusting.

No complaints, still seals well after 4 months, and was WELL WORTH IT!
Still untuned with it, although I should get a protune soon




Some videos: (one of mine already posted above by someone)

Compilation #1:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsgOVy1_8R0

Comilation #2:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LepX8iCCSrQ

LAUNCH VID!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeH6HjvYG84



~Chris
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Old 12-29-2006, 06:21 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subikid View Post
Anyone know about a cutout for NA?
with a naturally aspirated vehicle, a cutout may be more of a disadvantage. NA cars use backpressure in the exhaust to cause a scavenging effect which helps to remove heat from the combustion chambers (improving engine cycle efficiency). With less backpressure, you may experience very poor fuel mileage AND also a loss of power.

A way to see the best place to put the cutout is to run a line of oil down the exhaust pipe and run the car. The oil will change color where the pipe is really hot and as the gases get cooler down the line, the oil doesnt change color anymore b/c its not hot enough. At this point you can put a cutout without worrying about losing the thermal efficiency of the exhaust. (this is hearsay froma friend, check it for yourself.)


With turbos, they provide enough backpressure already, so the best exhaust would be an open pipe right after the impeller wheel, but the cutout works well in the same respect.

~Chris
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Old 01-08-2007, 06:20 PM   #32
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i think it would help to note what state these are illegal in, since this is a mod that appeals to alot of newbs.

i know CA its illegal, but then again everything is illegal here...ill add to it as i look it up more.
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Old 01-08-2007, 06:49 PM   #33
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Illegal? LOL. Most people on this site run catless and thats of no concern to them

Clark
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Old 01-09-2007, 11:50 AM   #34
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pretty sure this would be allowed OFF-ROAD only anywhere in America
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Old 01-09-2007, 04:42 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZScoobie View Post
Illegal? LOL. Most people on this site run catless and thats of no concern to them

Clark
+1 My car has been catless all its life.

However, some states are much more strict in terms of noise. Cops here in CO don't really seem to care and they rarely have to deal with street racer types. If I lived in California or Florida, I would be much more careful as to when I am opening the cutout.
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Old 01-15-2007, 11:15 PM   #36
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I am planning on putting a Badlanz cutout in this week. I unbolted the midpipe from the downpipe to get a feel for the sound. I took a little video, it doesn't do the low tones justice though. I also measured the stock exhaust diameter, its oval at the midpipe/downpipe junction. I measured approx 2 1/2" across and 2 1/8" vertically. So I have decided to go with a 2.5" cutout.

http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...aruexhaust.flv


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Old 01-16-2007, 01:02 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbronste View Post
I am planning on putting a Badlanz cutout in this week. I unbolted the midpipe from the downpipe to get a feel for the sound. I took a little video, it doesn't do the low tones justice though. I also measured the stock exhaust diameter, its oval at the midpipe/downpipe junction. I measured approx 2 1/2" across and 2 1/8" vertically. So I have decided to go with a 2.5" cutout.

http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...aruexhaust.flv

That's exactly what mine sounds like. You gotta love the sound of the turbo with it open!
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Old 01-23-2007, 07:46 PM   #38
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Just curious for anyone that has done the welding themselves, did the dp need to be removed so that you could weld around the whole thing? Im looking to do this and have been welding for a while so i am confident i can lay a nice bead that doesn't leak. Cuts down on the cost too!
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Old 01-24-2007, 12:46 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoobySnacker View Post
Just curious for anyone that has done the welding themselves, did the dp need to be removed so that you could weld around the whole thing? Im looking to do this and have been welding for a while so i am confident i can lay a nice bead that doesn't leak. Cuts down on the cost too!
You HAVE to take the DP off. The way in which the cutout must sit requires a bead around the top where you could not access unless you have the DP off.
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Old 01-25-2007, 08:56 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Speed 2.5 View Post
You HAVE to take the DP off. The way in which the cutout must sit requires a bead around the top where you could not access unless you have the DP off.
Cool, thanks!
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Old 02-05-2007, 11:07 AM   #41
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I just put it in the Racepipe on my TXS turboback. i never had to remove the downpipe or the catback. Just pop in and out the racepipe with cutout. And when inspection comes, I simply swap the cutout pipe for my catpipe. Takes about 30 minutes including lifting the car and I only mess with 4 bolts and the o2 sensor
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:15 AM   #42
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There is nothing like being at the track, racing someone and not running a race map on your first run, then on the second run swithcing to a race map and opening up your exhaust dump right at the line...Weeeee CB!
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Old 02-14-2007, 10:35 AM   #43
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Would this be something safe to run w/ catless up pipe/downpipe and the cobb APstage 2 map?

Last edited by RCGsupra; 02-14-2007 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 02-14-2007, 04:33 PM   #44
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^I do.

no problems at all. just be careful not to floor it right after you close the cutout. Sometimes it can get knock if you have it open then close it suddenly and rip on the throttle. (not my experience, just hearsay)
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:24 PM   #45
D-Speed 2.5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXDriftR View Post
^I do.

no problems at all. just be careful not to floor it right after you close the cutout. Sometimes it can get knock if you have it open then close it suddenly and rip on the throttle. (not my experience, just hearsay)
It is not "real" knock. The sudden loud noise makes the knock sensor hear "fake knock" which makes it pull timing. This is the only downside to a cutout: The damn stock knock sensor. However, timing will eventually return to "normal" and you'll be fine to rip on it.
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Old 02-15-2007, 05:40 PM   #46
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Below is some PM dialogue that ScoobySnacker and I had over PM's. (ScoobySnacker, I hope you don't mind) Your questions were really good which is why I posted this.

There are many ways to attach and mount a cutout (y-pipe) so feel free to chime in with other ideas.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoobySnacker
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Speed 2.5
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoobySnacker
Hi,
I was curious if you purchased the flange adaptor and the y-pipe when you bought your cutout. I doesnt look like it from your pictures but i figured i would ask. Also, where your Y comes off the dp, how was that hold drilled? It would have to be on an angle of some sort, right? Im still weighing my options on cutouts. All your information is much appreciated.
When I bought my Badlanz HPE cutout, It came with an adapter to have it mate up to a Summit Y-pipe. Charles, from Badlanze, now sells the kit as a whole: Y-pipe, cutout, etc. My buddy got the new version and it is much nicer than the combo that I have.

For the hole in my DP: My fabricator buddy cut a semi-circle chunk out of my DP right across from the o2 sensor bung. Then he hacked the Y-pipe into a reverse semi circle shape and fit the two together like puzzle pieces. From there, he welded the two together. I gave him that picture of the QTP down pipe which you saw, and he made it look exactly like that.
First off, thanks for all the VERY helpful information.
Do you have any ideas what tool he used to get a semi-circular shape in? Also what exactly do you mean when you say reverse semi circle? Again, thanks for all your help.
Not sure on what the name of the type of saw he used but it was attached to an air compressor and had a 4" wheel type blade.

As far as the "semi circle" I was talking about, I'll try to clarify. He cut a "C" shape out of the DP and then hacked the Y-pipe into a "D" section and attached the two together. The pic of my setup below better shows what I am talking about:



The brownish colored pipe is a part of the original Y-pipe that was hacked to fit. You can see how he fit the two together like two puzzle pieces.

As far as the part that needs to be sealed:


You can see the motor in the top left corner of that pic is all rusted out. This is a picture of my original cutout that stopped working because water had destroyed the motor. I put a fat layer of silicon around the rubber boot on my new motor, thus sealing it completely from water and road grime.

Hope that helps.
-Darren
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Old 02-16-2007, 11:06 PM   #47
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My QTP results

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Old 02-17-2007, 12:55 PM   #48
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^^^What kind of mods are you working with? Vf-34, 16g?

D-speed 2.5- Good looking out man. Hopefully some of those questions will clear up some things for people in the future.
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Old 02-17-2007, 01:34 PM   #49
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What is actually the best electronic cutout on the market?
Is it practically possible to have cutout with NO leaks and "healthy" motor?
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Old 02-17-2007, 02:51 PM   #50
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Just found this thread!

I have a Helix catted dp with a cutout welded with a QTEC after the cat on my 04 STi.
On a UTEC Stg 2 base map, I gained 2mph on my trap with cutout open vs closed.
104 vs 106 in the winter.
I went with the cutout after a cat because I didn't want to deal with the boost spikes/creep, fumes, etc.
It's still high flowing enough to hear the turbo whine when the cutout is open and the car idling.

I later got it road tuned by Clark, different maps for open and closed.
Feels about the same, just smoother, and doesn't run as rich anymore.

I'm going to put the whole setup up for sale soon, its already off the car. Most of the time it was just a manual cutout cause i had issues with the cutout wiring and sometimes the motor.
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