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Old 11-17-2006, 01:33 PM   #1
SubieDSM
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Member#: 130845
Join Date: Nov 2006
Default Clutch replacement - what parts to buy?

First I want to say I'm new to wrenching on Subarus but have more wrench time on other various cars than I care to admit

I've been searching for a list of commonly replaced parts when doing a clutch swap but haven't found what I'm looking for. I'm doing a clutch swap on a 97 Impreza OBS 2.2L in my home garage. From what I've read it seems the easiest/quickest method is to slide the engine forward and leave the tranny in place. Anyone have any comments on this procedure?

I've got the obvious parts down - disk, pressure plate, t/o bearing, pilot bearing, release fork. What about the fork pivot ball (if there is one)? I can't find one at subarugenuineparts.com. Are there any other parts I should replace while I'm in there? Seals, boots, clips, gaskets, etc? I'll definitely get the flywheel resurfaced and inspect for other worn parts.

Are there any gotcha's I should be aware of when doing a clutch swap?

Thanks all!
Dane
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Old 11-17-2006, 07:03 PM   #2
norexyet
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Wild Rides Race Cars
Vehicle:
11 elantra
yea i said elantra

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well you don't need to replace the fork. I think that trans is push type so it doesnt not have a clutch pin. Are you doing it on a lift or the ground? I always get everything unbolted, but the trans jack on the tranny, then a "one leg" on the exhaust manifold to help with the angle, then just you a prybar to get the trans off the motor. Since your doing an older trans the dowels might be a pita. Try spraying them down with some lubricant to make things easier.
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Old 11-17-2006, 08:19 PM   #3
Tim Sanderson
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Join Date: May 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: S.E. wisconsin
Vehicle:
00 Impreza 2.5 RS
Blue Ridge Pearl

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remove neg. battery
drain and remove rad. and fans in one piece(don't forget to unplug fans first)
Remove upper hose from rad. and lower hose from block(watch for coolant on lower)
remove starter.
remove fuel supply,return and vent line on driver side fuel rail.(Don't be smoking or playing with fire at this time)
remove intake.
unbolt motor from trans(6 bolts[2 long 4 short] and 2 nuts all accessible from the top)
Put front of car on jack stands.
Remove header from heads and let hang(these studs and nuts get very rusty and the gaskets are probably due for a change). Good time to replace these items and it helps insure that you wont strip out the holes in the heads. It also insures even tightening and no exhaust leaks during re-installation.

Get underneath and remove motor mount nuts and washers.
Loosen/remove pitch stop.
put a chunk of wood on a jack and lift trans and motor together via the trans until the motor mount studs clear the crossmember.

Attach your load leveler to the intake manifold(left and right sides).

I use a heavy duty putty knife to seperate the motor/trans enough to get a prybar in there. Pull apart evenly on both sides.

There you go. Replace your stuff
6 pressure plate bolts(12mm)
pry off the pressure plate evenly
8 flywheel bolts(14mm)
Check your seperator plate and rear main seal for leakage and fix if necessary.
You should probably get your flywheel resurfaced.

That should get you started. If you need some torque specs or anything just ask.

Your new pressure plate will probably have a nice layer of oil on it to keep it from rusting. Spray some brake cleaner on a rag on wipe it thoroughly until clean.

Good luck
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Old 11-21-2006, 05:18 PM   #4
SubieDSM
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Awesome! Thanks for the detailed instructions, Tim.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Sanderson View Post
Attach your load leveler to the intake manifold(left and right sides).
I'm assuming you use a cherry picker here? I hope there's another way around this because I'd have to rent one. Oh well, I'm really good at making the wrong tool work. Like using a gear puller when the job calls for a shop press.

Dane
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Old 11-21-2006, 05:30 PM   #5
SubieDSM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norexyet View Post
well you don't need to replace the fork. I think that trans is push type so it doesnt not have a clutch pin. Are you doing it on a lift or the ground? I always get everything unbolted, but the trans jack on the tranny, then a "one leg" on the exhaust manifold to help with the angle, then just you a prybar to get the trans off the motor. Since your doing an older trans the dowels might be a pita. Try spraying them down with some lubricant to make things easier.

Thanks, the fork would be a "while I'm in there" type thing. No lift for me, unfortunately.

At least my subie has only lived in Colorado. Bolts shouldn't be rusted too bad. Nothing a few squirts of wd40 and/or a cheater bar can't handle.

Dane
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