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Old 12-22-2006, 04:11 AM   #1
Mojambo
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Member#: 102581
Join Date: Dec 2005
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Vehicle:
2006 STI-USDM
SGM

Default heated Mirror install(complete DIY. wiring, relay & elements)

Here is my write up for installing heated mirrors. I assume NO RESPONSIBILITY for damages incurred when others perform the install. The imprezas come with the fuse block and wiring upto the doors but NOT inside. The wiring is meant to activate the heated mirror with the rear defroster on a timer. This is the OEM way and I'm doing the exact same as OEM.



Tools:
plastic trim removal tool
Phillips screw driver(med)
small flat heat screw driver
wire cutters
wire stripers
Soldering Gun
Heat Gun(strong hair dryer)
thin smooth tool(butter knife): remove mirror from plastic trim when heated
KY lube(optional)
Utility knife

Material:
16G wire(Red and black): 12ft
10G wire: 3 ft
2 pin connectors: 2
shrink tubes: long and short
solder and paste
small zip ties: 25
Electrical tape (3M works best)
clear automotive silicone(clear sticks best)
Wire loom(plastic or nylon)
4 Butt connectors

Parts:
heated elements: Burco #3801 ($35ea.CAD)
Relay part #82501FC000


First thing is to remove the Negative terminal on the battery and park the car in a secure location. Your car might be apart for a while. If you can't get it back together and have to leave it, you'll want a secure location.

here goes:

1. Removing the Door cards.

-Take a small flat heat screw and remove the cover that is hiding the screw. Remove the screw with a philips srew driver.
-With the trim removal tool, pry up on the switch panel. Make sure to go front to back and pry it all up as the clips hold on tight and the whole thing can fold up like a burrito.
-Use the small flat head to help remove the wire connectiors. Take your time and figure out the orientation of the connectors as they can break if tugged too hard. :wink:
-With the trim removal tool, pry up on the bezel that surrounds the tweeter. The section that surrounds the actual handle and lock button is clipped on very well. take your time and hold the bottom section off the clips while pulling the top section off.
-To remove the door card, insert the trim tool bottom rear of the door card. Slide the tool along the bottom and pop the few clips out. Once the bottom is unclipped, pull the bottom towards yourself and the clips will pop out. Place your hand on the bottom rear corner of the door card and lift up. This will remove the door card.



2. Removing the mirror.

-remove the white clip that connects the mirror to the door.(you will also be placing your 2 pin connector here.)
-with trim tool, remove the plastic that exposes the wires and 3 screws that hold in the mirror.
-using the med. size philips. Use strong pressure pushing towards the screw and carefully remove the 3 screws holding the mirror. It's important to use a properly sized philips as they can easily be stripped. remove the 1 black screw towards the front and remove the mirror.
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Old 12-22-2006, 04:12 AM   #2
Mojambo
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3. Installing heated element.

-Using a heat gun, heat up the mirror and surrounding plastic.(1-2 minutes) With the heat gun it will not take long.
-using a butter knife or smotth flat tool. Insert the tool between the plastic and mirror. You'll notice that the plastic is quite soft and it will allow you to get under the mirror. THe mirror will retain the heat for a little while, but you don't want to wait too long. Basically peel the mirror back. The surrounding plastic is soft and will push away. On the driver side, the mirror is held on by black soft urethane and the passenger side is held by 2 small pieces of double sided tape. If offers some resistance when taking off the mirror, but smoothly peel it off.(this part is much easier than you think)
-After things have cooled off, remove and clear the back of the mirrors to accept the heated element. clean the glass with amonia or something that leaves no residue. I quickly heated the mirror to make the element stick better. Position the element so that the pins are towards the inside of the mirror(towards the car) and stick it on. Push all the small air bubles out.
-Now that the mirror is off and the backing plate is exposed, remove the screw and spring and the round white pivot(notice the white pivot has 2 tabs for proper orientation). Slowly pull it back and you'll hear each thread pop out as the backing comes out.
-take the mirror and element and locate where the 2 pins line up. Cut the backing plate accordingly. I had the enlage thes square hole and make it a little larger.
-remove the 3 screws that hold the colored portion of the mirror to the spring loaded pivot. The 3 screws have some type of locktite, so use the proper screw driver and alot of pressure as to not strip them.
-Prepare about 2.5 feet of black and red wires. About 4 inches from the ends that will connect to the element, heat up a 6" tube of heat shrink to cover the wires.
-with the 2 mirror parts seperated, push the wire from the bottom towards the inside the the mirror housing. leave enough length so you can solder it to the element.
-Run the wires through the hole in the backing plate.
-Re-install the backing plate by inserting the 2 white platic threaded rods into their respective holes. Insert the white pivot locating the 2 small tabs, add the small spring and screw it in.
-add 2 small heat shrink tubes to each wire. Solder the wires to the 2 pins, lower and heat the shrink.
-Apply silicone to the backing plate. Use your imagination as to where the mirror will contact the backing plate.
-Place the mirror on the backing plate and insert one of the ends into the lip. Lightly pull the extra wiring into the mirror housing. Heat up the surrounding backing plate plastic and slowly push in the mirror. It will click into place. I held the mirror against the backing plate and walked outside in the cold for a minute. This solidified the plastic.
-Route the wires through the second part of the mirror and plate the foam arround the wires.
-add the 3 screws to the bottom pivot to re-attach the 2 halves.
-this is it. The heated elements are installed
-After everything is dry, re-install the mirrors on the car.

4. Wiring the heat!
wiring diagram:
http://www.auto-epc.ru/2004%20STI/07...r%20System.pdf
connector locations:
http://www.auto-epc.ru/2004%20STI/07...oor%20Cord.pdf
http://www.auto-epc.ru/2004%20STI/07...mpartment).pdf


-I strongly suggest to review, read, understand and read the diagrams again.
-remove the rocker panel plastic trim, lower driver side dash and passenger golve box for easy access.
-Remove the speaker from the door. The door "cord" is the rubber hose that isolates the wires that run from the inside of the car into the door. Your 2 wires will need to pass through this. When looking at the cord, you'll notice some black take. Remove it. This makes it cord seem like it can seperate into 2 halves...IT DOES NOT!
-Push the top half of the coord and expose the area that you will make a small cut to pass your wires through. Make sure your hole is above the half way mark as you need to keep it weather tight. Take the knife and cut a small slit.
-Using the 10Ga. wire and some KY, push the wire into the door card towards the inside of the car. This takes patience and time. once you see the 10g wire inside the car, tape up a 4ft. black and red 16Ga wire to the 10Ga and pull them through the slit into the car.
-Push the wires through the top half of the door cord and cover the top length with wire loom.
-Run the wires on the inside of the door up towards the location or the stock mirror connectors. Solder the 2 pin connecors to each end and connect them. I zip tied them together with the original connector to ensure they are quiet.
-this is where we connect the red and black wires from the heated elements to our stock wiring on connectors D1/b30 and D11/B101
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Old 12-22-2006, 04:12 AM   #3
Mojambo
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Join Date: Dec 2005
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Location: Ottawa, Canada
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2006 STI-USDM
SGM

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-The wiring diagram above shows in detail what wires lead where and what pins are related to the heated mirror function. On connectors D1 and D11 the pin 1(black) and pin 23(Black yellow) are wires needed. The acutal wires are located on the connectors B30 and B101. However the pin out are the same for all the connectors, you can confuse the orientation of them. The part betwen pin 2 and 3 indicate the TAB that secures the connectors together.
-Locate the Pins 1 and 23 on the connectors D1 and D11. Look at the wired end(backside) of connectors B30 and B101(not pins). This will give the mirror image of the pin location of the D1/D11 connectors. locate the pin 1 black ground and the pin 23 black/yellow power wire. These are the same on the driver and passenger sides.
-Butt connect the wires together. Red wire to Black/yellow(pin 23) and black to black(pin 1)
-Add the relay #82501FC000 to the fuse block B225(second from the top)
-Connect negative terminal on battery
-I TESTED everything with butt connectors first and then soldered the wires together. Red wire to Black/yellow(pin 23) and black to black(pin 1)

-After soldering, I taped up the wires, ziped tied as much as I could

TESTING:

Start the car, hit the rear defrost button. Wait 2 minutes and place your hand on the mirror. You'll feel the heat. Pat yourself on the back

Re-install all the door cards and plastic dash trimming.

Go for a ride
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Old 12-22-2006, 10:06 AM   #4
GooseMan
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excellent write up!

Quick question....did you put your new wires into the D1/D11 connectors...or just wire it directly to the wires themselves (strip off some wire, and solder to there)?

Glad to see the car is pre-wired!
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Old 12-22-2006, 11:46 AM   #5
Mojambo
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SGM

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GooseMan View Post
excellent write up!

Quick question....did you put your new wires into the D1/D11 connectors...or just wire it directly to the wires themselves (strip off some wire, and solder to there)?

Glad to see the car is pre-wired!
No I did not as the connectors for D1/D11 did not have pins, just empty holes. I did not have the special subaru pin for the connector, so I soldered to the B30/B101 connectors using the pin out for the D1/D11

Eric
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Old 12-22-2006, 12:09 PM   #6
GooseMan
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sounds good!
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Old 09-30-2007, 01:16 AM   #7
simonbsays
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2006 CGM WRX Wagon
XPT Stage II

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Awesome write-up! I have another quick question... where'd you get the heating elements? Would a Subaru dealer carry both the heating elements and relay?

Thanks
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:40 PM   #8
Mustangkilla
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good stuff!!!
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Old 10-01-2007, 07:46 PM   #9
codpiece
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Go diy!
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Old 10-03-2007, 07:07 PM   #10
paulmofyourhand
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here in texas, we might use it twice a year, but still a great write up !
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Old 10-03-2007, 07:25 PM   #11
Paranoid Fabrications
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Very nice job. i love my heated mirrors

Shane
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Old 01-13-2008, 03:45 AM   #12
Mojambo
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SGM

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mirrors are still going strong! work reliably and perfect every time!

thanks

E
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Old 01-18-2008, 01:58 PM   #13
Unclemepi
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What a great write up. I'm in the process of changing out my itsy-bitsy stock mirrors on my '99 Forester with some 2001 heated mirrors, this info is mucho appreciated!

UncleMepi
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:08 AM   #14
PIlo101
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Guys, you can find the elements online now. Here's the thread with the link:


http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1435407
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Old 05-24-2008, 02:27 AM   #15
bonesmcgraw
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Has anybody done this on an 07 2.5i. I don't have the black with yellow stripe. Anybody have a wiring diagram?

Thanks
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Old 05-24-2008, 11:54 PM   #16
jdubya301
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nice write up. i may do this before next winter
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Old 09-20-2008, 01:28 AM   #17
simonbsays
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Mojambo, how did you pass the 10-gauge wires from the heated element through the mirror's pivot point and to the mirror assembly's exit into the car?

I'm performing this mod right now and can't seem to find any hole that'd fit 2 10-gauge wires.

Thanks,
Simon
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Old 09-23-2008, 10:58 AM   #18
Abnormal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonbsays View Post
Mojambo, how did you pass the 10-gauge wires from the heated element through the mirror's pivot point and to the mirror assembly's exit into the car?

I'm performing this mod right now and can't seem to find any hole that'd fit 2 10-gauge wires.

Thanks,
Simon
Sometimes when I find my wire jackets are too thick I strip that section of wire and replace with heat shrink.

Although, in this case, who knows?
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Old 09-23-2008, 11:29 AM   #19
simonbsays
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XPT Stage II

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nevermind, i realized that the 10-gauge wire's only used for fishing the 16-gauge wires through the rubber door cord in a later step. the wires used from the heat element through the doors are the 16 gauge ones.
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Old 12-21-2008, 05:29 PM   #20
AWDREX
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I think i may just wire the elements to a seperate switch...any thoughts?
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Old 12-24-2008, 12:01 PM   #21
ATK
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Why would you do that when you can just do the wiring like OEM and go to the defrost switch? That way when you eventually sell your car, you can say it has heated mirrors and not explain why there is a separate switch for them.
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Old 12-24-2008, 12:16 PM   #22
simonbsays
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As much work as this mod was, it's definitely one of THE BEST MODS I've done to my car. With the whole arctic blast goin on in the north west, I''m absolutely loving the feature every time I'm in the car.

Did you get around to it yet, ATK?
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Old 12-24-2008, 12:18 PM   #23
simonbsays
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWDREX View Post
I think i may just wire the elements to a seperate switch...any thoughts?
The OEM wiring has a timer built in... not sure what can happen if you left it on for too long without a timer if you wired it to a separate switch.
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Old 12-24-2008, 12:30 PM   #24
magnum2066
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I don't think the elements were intended to always be on, just long enough to defrost the surface. I know with the rear defrost the relay can overheat causing damage, hence the timer.
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Old 10-05-2009, 02:06 AM   #25
kptimpreza
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links to wiring diagrams and connoctor locations arent working. any other locations of any positive power source from the rear defogger? (preferably closr to the driver side)
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