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Old 12-27-2006, 05:25 PM   #1
Mojambo
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Default Heated Seat install: complete guide to DIY

Here is my write up for installing heated seat elements. I assume NO RESPONSIBILITY for damages incurred when others perform the install. The heated seats will tap into the rear 12V socket(cigarette lighter socket) wires. The sedans do not have a relay in the block and a rear 12V socket, so the wires are free to use and already have a 20AMP fuse added. The relay is not needed for this install as the wiring harness provided with the seat kit has the switches wired into the unit. This must mean that the switches can each handle a constant 10Amps as they are not on a switched relay side. This install looks and performs just like OEM.

****I strongly suggest consulting the subaru factory service manual for your model/year of car to remove the seats and SRS/air bag Connectors. The service manual indicates how to remove the seat covers and all hog rings*****


Tools:
-14MM socket
-12MM socket
-10MM socket
-big wire cutters for hog rings
-med. Philips screw driver
-small flat head screw driver
-sharp untility knife
-Stepped drill bit
-wire stripper and connector tool
-soldering gun
-marker
-Scisors

Material:
-30 Med. Zip ties
-10 small Zip ties
-clear silicone
-solder and paste
-1 14-16Ga loop type connetor for ground attachment
-1 14-16Ga flat male connector
-1 heat shrink tube med.
-Wire loom(plastic or nylon)



Parts:
-heated Seat elements with wiring harness and switches. The harness includes the thermostat regulator. The kit comes with some zip ties and fabric tape.
-Relay part #82501FC000

I purchased the H3 kit from http://www.heatedseatkits.com/

******If your car has side airbags, make sure to unplug the negative terminal on the battery before starting anything to avoid an SRS fault*****


First thing is to remove the Negative terminal on the battery and park the car in a secure location. Your car might be apart for a while. If you can't get it back together and have to leave it, you'll want a secure location.




1. Remove the center console.

-Using the med. Philips screw driver, start to remove the center console. I already had the 2 lower dash panels and golve box removed from the heated mirror install. This might be necessary to gain access to all screws.
-Start by removing the shift knob. On the rear most trim surrounding the shifter boot, with 2 fingers pull up on the trim. This will unclip the console
that holds the boot and ashtray assembly.
-Remove the white connector that holds the wires to the back of the 12V accessory.
-remove the screws that hold the cup holders and pull up. For an STI, you'll need to remove the 2 connectors for the DCCD.
-OPTIONAL: remove the complete center console, mainly the center arm-rest. This frees up the entire center of the car to help route the wiring harness.


2. Install switches.

-Find the proper position for your switches. I chose this location as there is ample room under the cup holders for the wiring harness.
-Mark the location and use the Stepped drill bit to create the proper sized hole.
-Insert the switches without the rest of the wiring harness(there are multiple connectors to seperate the harness from it's components)

3. Removing the seats

-Using the position lever, raise the drivers seat as high as it will go.
-Remove the rear plastic covers from the back seat compartment.
-With your 14mm socket, remove the 4 bolts holding each seat.
-Push the top of the seat and lay it against the rear to expose the connectors on the underside of the seat.
-with the small flat head screw driver and knowledge from the service manual, disconnect the connectors under the seat.**take your time to remove the the connectors as the yellow ones are for the side airbags***
-pull the seat out by tilting it back and tiping the bottom of the seat towards the door.
-take the seat to your work bench.
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Old 12-27-2006, 05:32 PM   #2
Mojambo
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-Bottom pad:


-Back pad:
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Old 12-27-2006, 05:33 PM   #3
Mojambo
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-Under seat:




4. installing heated seat elements

****bottom part of seat****
-remove the small cap that covers the nut on the height adjuster. using the 12mm socket, remove the bolt on the crank handle(driver side only)
-remove the small cap that covers the screw on the recliner adjustment and remove the screw. Remove the plastic lever
-with the Philips screw driver, remove the screws that hold the plastic side covers.
-lay the seat on its side to expose the underside of the bottom. Notice the black J shaped clips that hold the bottom seat cover to the steel frame
-Unhook the J shaped clips on all 4 sides. Place the seat upright.
-starting with one of the front corners, peel the seat cover up. Move to the next corner, peel it up and roll the cover back. You'll notice there are 2 metal rods that run the length of the seat cover. The cover will be attached to the bottom cushion via a few hog rings(copper colored). Remove all the hog rings and expose the bottom foam.
-Place the bottom element(narrow/shorter) and line it up on the bottom foam. Use your fingers to push the element into the chanel. Using the marker, mark the location of the hog rings(to be replaced by zip ties)
-With scisors, cut 2 triangles to make a square hole in the element.(this is allowed and explained in the instructions that come with the heated seat kit)
-cut a few strips off the material tape(grey stuff) and cover the exposed ends of the heated element surrounding the hole.
-The elements have 3 large strip of sticky tape, remove the one closest to the wires(back of seat), pass the wires between the top and bottom foam, line up the element and rub in the tape. Pull off the middle section of tape and stick it to the foam aswell.
-Add the zip ties to the locations that had hog rings, but don't zip them yet.
-Pull the zip ties through the holes, press the element into the channel, peel and stick the last tape on the element.
- starting at the back, connect the zip ties and zip them a little so that they don't come apart. Once all the zip ties are connected, pull them tight and cut off the excess zip.
-The 3rd picture in the "under seat" shows the wires from the bottom element, I used the utility knife and made a slit. I then passed the connector and wires through it. At that same location, I cut a notch in the black J channel to pass the wire through after the cover was re-installed.(5th pic in "back Pad" category)

****Top part of seat****
-looking at the back of the seat in its upright position, pull out the 2 plastics tabs on either side of the zippers. This will allow you to pull out the bottom of the zippers. Unzip to the top.
-Pull down on one end of the black plastic channel and seperate the middle section of the back portion. Raise the flap, exposing the guts of the seat.
-Cut the 2 hot rings inside.
-Looking at the front of the seat, pull out the bottom seam and start to raise the top cover. Cut the 4 hog rings and raise the cover.
-Place the top element(Wider/longer) and line it up on the top foam. Use your fingers to push the element into the chanel. Using the marker, mark the location of the hog rings(to be replaced by zip ties)
-With scisors, cut 2 triangles to make a square hole in the element.(this is allowed and explained in the instructions that come with the heated seat kit)
-cut a few strips off the material tape(grey stuff) and cover the exposed ends of the heated element surrounding the hole.
-The elements have 3 large strip of sticky tape, remove the one closest to the wires(back of seat), pass the wires between the top and bottom foam, line up the element and rub in the tape. Pull off the middle section of tape and stick it to the foam aswell.
-Add the zip ties to the locations that had hog rings, but don't zip them yet.
-Pull the zip ties through the holes, press the element into the channel, peel and stick the last tape on the element.
- starting at the top, connect the zip ties and zip them a little so that they don't come apart. Once all the zip ties are connected, pull them tight and
cut off the excess zip.
-Lower the top cover and slip the bottom through both top and bottom cusions.
-In the "Back pad" section look at pic 4. I cut a round hole(don't cut the stiching) and passed the top element wire set through.
-Add the 2 zip ties just under the zipper(close to top) do up the zippers. Insert the plastic trim into the J shaped strip and finish up bottom.
-5th pic in "back Pad" category shows completed wire install.

5. Securing wires and themostat under the seat
-There is a flat steel bracket that is pefect for accomodating the temp. sensor(thermostat). I added a wad of silicone and used a large zip tie to hold it place. I ensured that the temp sensor did not interfere with the the movements of the seat mechanisms.
-Use small zip ties to secure the wires along the bottom the seat.
-Plug the thermostat to the 2 wires that come from the heat elements
-Reassemble all the pastic surrounding the seats and ratchet lever for driver side(13ft-lbs for the ratchet bolt)
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Old 12-27-2006, 05:33 PM   #4
Mojambo
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6. Running wires and re-installing seats in the car
-With the seats still out of the car, place the wiring harness along the center line of the console.
-The wires that will provide power to the seats will have to be plugged into the 2 switches mounted on the center console.
-I ran each wire under the carpet from the center console location(just under the cup holders). Using your arm, you can lift the carpet and pass the wire along the current wiring. Make sure that you leave enough wiring to allow the full range of motion for the seats(secure with zip ties).
-Reinstall the 1st section of the center console(arm rest). Where the cup hoders are location(but not installed) there is a void that you will need to use to locate your bundled wires. The harness provided is quite long and will need to be bundled under the cup holders.
-Attach the plugs to the switches, making sure the driver and passenger are marked and plugged into the proper switch.
-Install cup holders console with switches that are plugged into the harness

****reinstall seats in car*****
-Bring the seats one at a time in the car. Once the seat is in the car tilt them back and plug in all the AIRBAG connectors and NEW heated seat connectors.
-Torque the 4 bolts down to 40ft-lbs and cover the rear bolts with the plastic trim pieces.




7. Connecting the wires to the relay

***I connected the seats to the 12v accessory(unused). This ensures that the seats only come on with the key in the ACC. position or with the car on. The relay used on the top block B225 is used to accomplish this and is a must/safety feature in my opinion.***

-take the 10mm socket and remove the fuse panel and relay block B225 and pull it down to expose the back.
-Unclip the black Relay block B225 from the fuse panel for easy access to the rear of it.
-Solder your power(red) wire from the heated seat harness to the blue wire on the top most block. This is the switches power wire.
-Add the relay
-The top most relay position is empty on the sedans and is to be used as the power source for the heated seat elements
-The blue wire is the "switched power" wire and is only powered with the car in ACC or the ON position. Splice your red power wire into it.
-Secure the gound(Black wire) from the heated seat harness(last pic)
-Add the relay #82501FC000 into the top relay position of relay block B225
-Reattach the negative connection on the battery and test the heated seats.
-Once you've confirmed the seats work, finish installing the interior and be proud of yourself.



****I'm going to try to take more pics of various tiems, hope this helps******
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Old 12-27-2006, 08:18 PM   #5
nhluhr
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Nice writeup. Any idea on installing Subaru OE heaters into the STI seats?
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Old 12-27-2006, 08:21 PM   #6
bluetwo
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That's pretty cool man. Great write up and good luck.
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Old 12-28-2006, 12:47 AM   #7
SloSubie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhluhr View Post
Nice writeup. Any idea on installing Subaru OE heaters into the STI seats?
its about the same but ALOT more expensive.
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Old 12-28-2006, 01:48 PM   #8
Mojambo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhluhr View Post
Nice writeup. Any idea on installing Subaru OE heaters into the STI seats?
In order to wire the OE heaters in an STI you'd need a few more parts:

-new door switch panels with heated seat switch(Driver and Pass)
-OE elements and all the wiring
-Relay for B225



The big thing is that the STI's in canada have the switches on the doors. The USDM STI does not have the switches, but might have the wiring into the door connector. The diagram below indicates that the wiring might be there. One would have to simply check out the connectors D11/B101 for the pins 3-19-18-1. If the wiring is there, only a few things would be needed.


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Old 01-08-2007, 11:20 PM   #9
Porter
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This is great info. I'll be transferring my factory heating elements out of my F-XT seats into a set of '02 WRX seats very soon.

Thanks!
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Old 11-30-2008, 06:33 PM   #10
640k
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bumping this thread to the top. would like to know all of the required part numbers from the 08 premie heaters.
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Old 12-02-2008, 08:19 PM   #11
markesc
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If anyone needs, I have the 06/07 pdf for the entire electrical system... I'm doing the upgrade from '07 tr seats to '06 wrx limited heated leather....
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Old 12-10-2008, 01:39 PM   #12
640k
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I found a part resource for heated seats. I'm not sure what they would be missing, but here are the basic components:

Seat cushion heaters:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...08&catalogid=2

Seat back heaters:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...08&catalogid=2

Heater switch:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...22&catalogid=2

Those components alone are about $600. It would be worth going aftermarket if you could use the oem switches imo.
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Old 05-19-2009, 03:50 PM   #13
m_m_rs
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This is a great write up and a good resource, but hopefully someone can help me with some questions I have...

my car is an 05 RS and I want to have a factory appearance (switches mainly). I found a set of switches from an 06 OBS and I am now thinking that I should be grabbing the wire harness (for the seats alone) from the car as well.

This will cover the wiring from the seats to the switches to wherever else it plugs in...but since I dont have one and the wrecking yard wont let me poke around im a little unclear of what wiring goes where. Also I was looking over the wiring diagram above and am a bit unsure as to some of the definitions and where I would find the box that says to power supply routing?

I have found on other sites that there is a dead plug behind the glove box and I can wire up from there, but not 100% sure if the wires in an 06 will match this. I have pics to post but it wont let me put them up, so email or pm me if you can lend a hand. MARKESC you have a pm...

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by m_m_rs; 05-19-2009 at 04:26 PM. Reason: missed something...
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Old 06-08-2009, 03:59 AM   #14
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Lightbulb

I just installed heated seats in my 03 and the blue wire that the OP taped into right by the relay goes over to the B pillar on the passenger side. If the car did not have heated seats from the factory there is not a pin in the other plug coming up from the floor of the car. I know that for a fact its there on 03's & 04's i think its there on all Imprezas 02-07.

Start of blue wire


End of blue wire




So if your doing a heated seat install just get the power from the other end of the wire instead of tapping it up by the relay & wasting/adding a new wire.
The OEM ground/ -12V is also picked up right under the passenger fount seat.


Last edited by zman519; 06-08-2009 at 04:10 AM. Reason: pics
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Old 06-08-2009, 04:20 AM   #15
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BTW Mojambo vary nice write up
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Old 06-30-2009, 12:56 PM   #16
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Next to the H3 KIT they sell, they have the innovative MD kit. You think that button fits next to the empty button next to our I/C sprayer?
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Old 07-11-2009, 10:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zman519 View Post
BTW Mojambo vary nice write up

this is very good. well done
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Old 04-18-2010, 03:38 AM   #18
simonbsays
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I am preparing to do this mod. Except that I plan to do the REAR seats also. Does anyone know if the stock power source/relay would be able to handle 4 heat seats at the same time?
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:12 PM   #19
maxpower_454
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So is the relay for this just a single pole/single throw?

Also,

Is the above wiring diagram accurate for a 05 WRX?
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Old 05-11-2010, 03:26 AM   #20
maxpower_454
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I installed the seat elements at this point but do not have them wired. I did not cut any hog rings and I put the big element in the bottom where it was originally (I installed factory elements out of a wrecked car though.

Anyone have one of those relays they want to sell? Part #82501FC000

Is this relay really necessary?
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Old 05-11-2010, 03:44 AM   #21
simonbsays
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i'm almost done with this mod (like 90% complete).

popping in that relay would be the easiest, since there's a blue wire (like someone above mentioned) that runs to the passenger seat already.

however, you can also buy a standard 4 or 5 pin bosch relay for $5 and wire it up. i zip tied mine under/behind the steering column area. there'd just a few more wires to tap/connect.

i got a 5-pin relay and tapped the 12v signal wire (black-red) to pin 85. (edit: by signal wire, i meant the 12v signal that the stock heated seat relay uses. look behind the relay slot to find it).

my 5-pin relay:

30 - Battery
86 - Ground
85 - 12v signal
87 - heated seats
87a - for potential future mod that needs power when car's off

if those numbers are jibberish to you, google for how relays work. good luck!

Last edited by simonbsays; 05-11-2010 at 03:49 AM.
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Old 05-11-2010, 05:09 AM   #22
maxpower_454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonbsays View Post
i'm almost done with this mod (like 90% complete).

popping in that relay would be the easiest, since there's a blue wire (like someone above mentioned) that runs to the passenger seat already.

however, you can also buy a standard 4 or 5 pin bosch relay for $5 and wire it up. i zip tied mine under/behind the steering column area. there'd just a few more wires to tap/connect.

i got a 5-pin relay and tapped the 12v signal wire (black-red) to pin 85. (edit: by signal wire, i meant the 12v signal that the stock heated seat relay uses. look behind the relay slot to find it).

my 5-pin relay:

30 - Battery
86 - Ground
85 - 12v signal
87 - heated seats
87a - for potential future mod that needs power when car's off

if those numbers are jibberish to you, google for how relays work. good luck!

That's what I was thinking about doing. I'm going to try to find a relay first though. Is a relay really necessary? By looking at the diagram I don't see the point other than to make sure the seats only come on when the key's on but I'm sure it could have been just tapped into another wire that already had that setup
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:15 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpower_454 View Post
That's what I was thinking about doing. I'm going to try to find a relay first though. Is a relay really necessary? By looking at the diagram I don't see the point other than to make sure the seats only come on when the key's on but I'm sure it could have been just tapped into another wire that already had that setup
my elements are from heatedseatkits.com and they claim each seat draws 10 amps... ive heard that others have had success hooking it up to the cigarette lighter circuit, but i think that one's only 10-15 amps.

i think it's worth it to play it safe and not have to deal with blown fuses down the road.
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Old 05-11-2010, 12:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonbsays View Post
my elements are from heatedseatkits.com and they claim each seat draws 10 amps... ive heard that others have had success hooking it up to the cigarette lighter circuit, but i think that one's only 10-15 amps.

i think it's worth it to play it safe and not have to deal with blown fuses down the road.
Which kit did you use from heatedseatkits?
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Old 05-11-2010, 12:39 PM   #25
simonbsays
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I did both front and rear seats (write-up to come when i finish ). For the fronts, i got the H3 kit ($100). Rears, I got the Innovative Heat II ($90). After talking to the dealer a bit, I realize they're the same exact thing except H3 has black elements and Heat II has white. Wires, switches, control module are IDENTICAL. So save yourself 10 bucks. Their website sucks too and customer service (although nice) takes a while to respond.
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