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Old 09-10-2014, 04:45 PM   #1
KeithS05RS2.5
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Location: Syracuse
Vehicle:
2005 Impreza 2.5RS
Dark Blue

Default Keith's 2002 Bugeye WRX Rescue / Moneypit

So even though I dont have a DD after my 2.5RS was wrecked, I saw this WRX online for sale at a dealership. It had 70K on it and based on the aftermarket goodies I could tell it was someones baby at one point. Something about it just called to me and I had to go take a look.

Drove 4Hrs in the rental to Hudson NY. Car was beautiful, no rust, perfect paint, perfect interior, 70K on the 2002 ... basically mint. Then I started it .... bad turbo making scraping/grinding noises. But I persevered, purchased it, left the rental there, and drove her home ... gingerly ... ever so gingerly.
Here's Her Story:

Current:







How She Started:














Engine:
Invidia N1 3" CBE
Powers Enterprise PE1818 Turbo
Grimmspeed Catted 3" Downpipe (Divorced WG)
Grimmspeed Lightweight Crank Pulley
Tomei Uppipe
Tomei Unequal Length Header
Perrin Turbo Inlet
1-off Injen CAI W/ Injen Hydra-Sheild
HyperFlow FMIC
STI Pink Injectors
OEM "Modded" BPV

Driveline:
Agency Power Short Shifter
Blox 490g Neo Chrome Shift Knob
Sickspeed 3" Neo Chrome Shifter Extension

Suspension/Brake:
STI "Pink" front and rear strut bars
Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace

Electronics:
AEM Digital Oil Pressure Gauge
AEM Digital Boost Gauge
AEM UEGO Wideband AFR
Grimmspeed EBCS
Kenwood KDC-BT555U Head Unit

Exterior:
STI Fog Light Covers W/ Air Vents On Pass. Side
JDM V7 Projector Headlights
Morimoto Elite HIDs

Interior:
3-Pod A-pillar Gauge Holder
'05RS Seats Front & Rear
Kenwood KDC-BT555U Head Unit
Subaru Carbon Fiber Trim Bits

Other
KsTech Hood Scoop Air Diverter Plate
Grimmspeed Hood Struts
MadMAx911's Seat Air Bag Resistor Plugs
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Last edited by KeithS05RS2.5; 11-12-2015 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:47 PM   #2
KeithS05RS2.5
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So step one is to get the turbo pulled and replaced or rebuilt

From what I can tell it is a Powers Enterprises Turbo
Once pulled Ill need to figure out of its the 1818 or the 1820
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:56 PM   #3
smooth_ej20
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Grats on the purchase, I'm Jelly.
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Old 09-10-2014, 05:38 PM   #4
KeithS05RS2.5
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Thanks! ^

Ok so hit the first hurdle.
All the nuts and bolts came off no prob on the top side of the DP-turbo flange

Except the bottom one which whoever installed stripped the fugg out of. Not much room to maneuver there, 14mm wrench wont grab and 13mm wrench is too small.

Strip sockets I have wont fit due to the angle of the DP, do they make strip wrenches?

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Old 09-10-2014, 06:01 PM   #5
JuanWins
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Get some extractor sockets or just take a a grinder and cut that bitch off if you're going to replace the turbo.
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:09 PM   #6
KeithS05RS2.5
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Unless I can find some low profile ones, sockets wont fit

I do have a dremmel with the rotozip extension. If I could find some strong cutoff wheels for it I could do that.

Want to try the ol elbow grease way first, there are other people that live above my garage and I try to keep the noise down whenever possible
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:41 PM   #7
RJSMITH
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mbp,sr

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nice score its definitely a clean body theres been a increase in bugeyes in the syracuse area latley
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Old 09-11-2014, 05:24 PM   #8
KeithS05RS2.5
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So I Got that bolt off after a lot of PITA ****
Took the DP off
Snapped all three studs holding the turbo to the up pipe
disconnected the turbo
Spilled coolant everywhere

Only to find out .... the turbo is fine

My only guess is that the scraping noise was actually coming from the engine and somehow transferring the noise through the uppipe to the turbo. But even when I held the stethoscope to the engine, I got no noise.
No matter where you stood when facing the engine ... is sounded like it was coming dead from the turbo

FML
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Old 09-11-2014, 05:41 PM   #9
silverF4turbo
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4 -valve Derper
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Would be interested to hear the diagnosis - my similar mileage bugeye started making a similar noise this week. Sounds like a loose heatshield rattling in harmony with the revs coming from the turbo area, but then grinding between 4-5k.

Anyway it still looks like a super clean bugeye - hope you get that resolved quickly!
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Old 09-11-2014, 05:46 PM   #10
KeithS05RS2.5
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HOLD THE PHONE!

I went and sat down with the turbo all depressed and was messing with it and found the source of the noise!

http://vid787.photobucket.com/albums...psb19f1a55.mp4

**anyone know how to embed a youtube video?**

Last edited by KeithS05RS2.5; 09-11-2014 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 09-11-2014, 05:52 PM   #11
bmxhotsauce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithS05RS2.5 View Post
HOLD THE PHONE!

I went and sat down with the turbo all depressed and was messing with it and found the source of the noise!

http://vid787.photobucket.com/albums...psb19f1a55.mp4
tac weld it or weld it and call it good.
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Old 09-11-2014, 05:59 PM   #12
KeithS05RS2.5
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Im going to guess it shouldnt move like that correct?
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Old 09-11-2014, 06:08 PM   #13
ride5000
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yeah it's just a loose flapper button.

honestly there should be more preload on that actuator. is the link between actuator and wastegate adjustable? if not you can use spacers to move the actuator further away from the wg arm.
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Old 09-11-2014, 06:09 PM   #14
ride5000
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i would also perform or contract out a leakdown test to get an idea of the overall health of the engine.

look carefully at the up pipe side of the exhaust housing and you might find a p18 or p20 cast into it. that would indicate which pe18xx it is.
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Old 09-11-2014, 06:40 PM   #15
KeithS05RS2.5
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Only thing I could possible think that might adjust the arm is here with these hex screws?:


And @ride5000 : the only thing I see cast into it is one you can see in the lower left of the photo:

H
SI
5F
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Old 09-12-2014, 06:53 AM   #16
ride5000
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interesting.

the hex bolts on that actuator are holding the canister together. disassembly allows access to the diaphragm and/or spring for maintenance or replacement. you won't be able to adjust the location or preload that way.

the arm appears to be non-adjustable. at least not easily.

what i would do is take the actuator completely off, and bend the S section of the arm to shorten it. it will probably require a vise.

the non-existent seat pressure on the flapper is causing exhaust gas to bypass the turbine 100% of the time, hurting your boost threshold and spool, and causing a hell of a rattle (as you've found).

it's been a long time since i've had my vf23 off the car, but i seem to remember a p20 somewhere on the housing. perhaps they didn't all come with one...
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Old 09-12-2014, 09:00 AM   #17
JuanWins
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I would have it welded and go external.
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Old 09-12-2014, 11:41 AM   #18
KeithS05RS2.5
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^^
Just for giggles, what does that involve
I ask b/c I was looking on Grimmspeed's website for a DP and noticed that they have cross pipes with external wastegates
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Old 09-12-2014, 03:42 PM   #19
JuanWins
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Take the turbo somewhere to get it welded like this..

Get yourself one of these..
http://www.grimmspeed.com/external-w...x-sti-lgt-fxt/

And either a Tial or TurboSmart external wastegate. Just need a tune after that.
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Old 09-13-2014, 12:40 AM   #20
KeithS05RS2.5
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Well, its an option
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Old 09-14-2014, 12:35 PM   #21
Dpwhitehead1
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Subbed for yay!


Sent from my iPhone using NASIOC
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Old 09-14-2014, 01:20 PM   #22
KeithS05RS2.5
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So I was doing some surfing and came across this:

Thoughts on something like this?

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...oduct=FMAC5SUB
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Old 09-14-2014, 01:44 PM   #23
2004wrxy
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Try to bend the arm like someone has mentioned already, or put washers behind actuator and bracket.
All you need is a little more preload?
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Old 09-14-2014, 01:49 PM   #24
KeithS05RS2.5
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"little" is the key word

I have to really push hard on the actuator to create the additional preload to firm up the flapper
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Old 09-14-2014, 02:42 PM   #25
KeithS05RS2.5
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So I was actually attempting to take the spring out of the actuator to see its condition, but the one half of the clamp is jammed againt the compressor housing:



Looking at that it almost looks like the unit should be more to the right towards the red line than it is. Maybe the bracket got bent to the left at some point thus causing the lack of pre-load?
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