Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Monday July 6, 2015
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Normally Aspirated Powertrain

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-06-2007, 11:04 PM   #1
Nihilator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 84888
Join Date: Apr 2005
Default MY97 Impreza 2.2L -- Cleaned MAF, now car won't stay running

A few days ago, my wife's car, a 1997 Impreza Brighton edition (2.2L, absolutely no mods) suffered a inconsistent idle, loss of power, stalling, etc. Took a trip to the Subaru dealership for a diagnostic, and they said the MAF needed to be replaced...$600. I drove the car home, which was a horrific experience...stalling, no acceleration, etc.

This evening, I did the following:

0) checked the OBDII codes with my VAG-COM (VW diagnostic cable, capable of working as a generic OBDII code tool), and found cylinder 1 through 4 misfires (surely from trying to drive home) and a MAF signal too high (foolishly, I forgot to write down the code)
1) disconnected the negative battery cable
2) removed the MAF housing from the air intake
3) sprayed the wire parts liberally with the Advance Auto Parts equivalent of CRC Brakleen Brake Parts Cleaner, and allowed it to dry.
4) reinstalled the MAF housing
5) reconnected the negative battery cable

The negative cable was disconnected for long enough that the codes cleared themselves, and I presume the ECU was reset.

Now, when I try to start the car, it starts *every* time, runs smoothly for all of three seconds, and then the idle simply declines to zero, and the car stalls. It's not abrupt, it simply ramps down over three or four seconds until it dies. I wanted to let it idle without throttle until warm to readapt the ECU, but of course I can't do that. Giving it gas only chokes it, much like, well, a bad MAF, and it sputters and stalls.

The ECU is not storing a code...perhaps it's just not on long enough to do so.

So, did I miss something? What seems to be the issue? Is the MAF simply toast?

Thanks!

--Chris
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Nihilator is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 01-06-2007, 11:10 PM   #2
mikeyc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 32338
Join Date: Jan 2003
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Vehicle:
03 WRX Wagon

Default

I hate to ask, but is the MAF plugged back in? From your description, it almost sounds like its not.
mikeyc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2007, 11:14 PM   #3
OGspartan
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 79129
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: West Los Angeles
Default

Did you try checking the vacuum hoses along the air intake? This caused my co-workers Mustang to keep dying after she forgot to reconnect the hoses.
OGspartan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2007, 11:19 PM   #4
Nihilator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 84888
Join Date: Apr 2005
Default

Hehe, yes, the MAF is reconnected. It was the first thing I thought of.

The vacuum hoses are unlikely, as removing and reinstalling the MAF isn't very involved, but I'll check again in the daylight.

--Chris
Nihilator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2007, 11:32 PM   #5
ivwarrior
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100610
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lewistown, PA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
MBP

Default

It's involved enough. Just opening the airbox to check the air filter can cause the line to pop loose.
ivwarrior is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2007, 11:32 PM   #6
Guerice
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 51519
Join Date: Dec 2003
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Moncton, NB
Vehicle:
2006 2.5i Wagon
AKA Drtywgn

Default

If you unplug the maf it should still run under 3000-3500rpm, it is called the limb mode. You will have a CEL tho.

BTW a MAF is not 600$ from the dealer, i bought mine for 80$canadian, they are trying to sell you the whole tube with the MAF attached to it!
Guerice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2007, 11:42 PM   #7
Nihilator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 84888
Join Date: Apr 2005
Default

My wife's car's MAF is only available as the whole assembly, housing and all, and for that they charge $400 for the part and $200 for installation / resetting the ECU / clearing the codes. Advance Auto Parts has aftermarket (probably rebuilt) MAFs for $240, but I'd rather try the $1.22 Brake Cleaner solution first.

I will definitely check the hoses tomorrow in the daylight.

Failing that, I'll make a stab at a pick-n-pull yard nearby...I have a comprehensive list of models that have the same MAF sensor.

--Chris
Nihilator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2007, 11:48 PM   #8
legacy1907
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 94024
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:
05 WRX CGM
95 YJ Flat black

Default

something like that happened to me, i put electrolyte grease on all of the connections and it worked fine after that
legacy1907 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2007, 07:00 AM   #9
l67cooled
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 134812
Join Date: Dec 2006
Vehicle:
2006 2.5i
Grey

Default

I know when I clean a maff i use a very expensive electronics cleaner. not a brake cleaner. Im willing to bet you destroyed it rate there.
l67cooled is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2007, 10:37 AM   #10
Nihilator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 84888
Join Date: Apr 2005
Default

That's entirely possible.

So this morning on my way out the door to work, I looked for a loose vacuum hose and found none. Everything's tight as a drum.

Tried to start the car and the same thing happened....started fine, ran for three seconds, then the idle ramped down until it stalled. Accelerator just choked it and it died.

So I disconnected the MAF and tried it. Nearly the same thing...started fine, ran for five or six seconds, the the idle ramped down until it stalled. This time, though, I was able to give it a little gas and easily keep it running. It ran rough, and I got some oil smoke out the back (and under the hood!), but at least it can probably be driven. Letting off the gas completely stalled it out. I didn't have the time to let it warm up; I'll do that tonight.

--Chris
Nihilator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2007, 10:55 AM   #11
Storm
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 5218
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: SAUL'S Motorsports
Vehicle:
96L Most Over-
Developed Beater

Default

Is your idle air controller plugged in and connected to the intake?

Take a good look at the MAF. All that spraying and cleaning could have messed up the wire. If it comes down to it, I have a spare MAF from a 98 EJ22 that will also work for you if you need it.....it wouldn't cost you anywhere near $600 either.

Jay Storm
Storm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2007, 12:27 AM   #12
daegon97
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 134179
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Montgomery County, MD
Vehicle:
97 Outback
Maroon/Mud

Default

just as a side note: i accidentally disconnected a breather hose from my intake, located directly after the MAF on my 97 outback, and didn't notice.
when i tried to start it, i had exactly the same symptoms as you. check very carefully for that disconnected hose, that may be your problem.
daegon97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2007, 01:11 AM   #13
HellBinder
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 132385
Join Date: Nov 2006
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Palmer, Ak
Vehicle:
94 RHD Legacy
w/wrx swap. White

Default

The little resistor in there is coated, anything but electronic specific spray will strip it off.
But from the sounds of it I would concentrate more on your fuel delivery system.
Spray some of that Brakleen down the intake when you crank it and see if you can keep it running.
If not, that will rule out your fuel system.
After that, MAF would be the only other component that could cause all of your symptums.
HellBinder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2007, 01:29 AM   #14
bl_easy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 91407
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: the souf
Vehicle:
Ver. 2 WRX STi wagon
but it's a bucket

Default

Hm. This happened to me once when I changed my air filter... had accidentally disconnected a vacuum hose. Hell, I even managed to let that end of the hose hang out of sight so it took me forever to find!

But, you've checked the hoses. Hm, I'd doublecheck just in case.

... also on my MY97 2.2
bl_easy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2007, 01:59 PM   #15
Nihilator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 84888
Join Date: Apr 2005
Default

Thanks again for the replies.

I gave a very careful look to the vacuum hoses in the area and elsewhere, and didn't see anything amiss. So I started the car (with the MAF disconnected) and gave the accelerator just enough pressure to idle it myself until it warmed up. At that point, the idle held.

I hope that's all it needed...to warm up and let the ECU adapt a bit (even though I was gassing it). I'll try again when the car is cool. If it doesn't work, I'll just adjust the throttle cable a bit until I can get it to AndrewTech.

In the meantime, I'm off to Crazy Ray's to find a MAF.

--Chris
Nihilator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2007, 02:13 PM   #16
Storm
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 5218
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: SAUL'S Motorsports
Vehicle:
96L Most Over-
Developed Beater

Default

How does $50 sound for one? PM me if interested.

Jay Storm
Storm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2007, 01:22 PM   #17
linsavy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 11620
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Ontario
Vehicle:
1997 GF4-STiV3 clone

Default

Many MAFs have been borked by cleaning attempts even with the less harsh electronic cleaner.
linsavy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2007, 03:53 PM   #18
sailil
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 26390
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Laurel MD
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza RS
Sedona Red Pearl

Default

what are the chances that the front 02 sensor is also fried? (~$60) It would make idle rough, but I'll admit I dunno if it would ramp-to-stall like that.
sailil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2007, 09:43 PM   #19
Nihilator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 84888
Join Date: Apr 2005
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailil View Post
what are the chances that the front 02 sensor is also fried? (~$60) It would make idle rough, but I'll admit I dunno if it would ramp-to-stall like that.
When I disconnect the MAF, the car runs (although much like poo). When I reconnect the MAF, it stalls out immediately. (And that was before I tried to clean it, too.)

The idle decreasing to a stall within a few seconds concerns me, though. It does point to a bad or dirty IAC, but it seems unlikely that it would occur at exactly the same time that the MAF would fail.

--Chris
Nihilator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2007, 10:12 PM   #20
Erconcepts
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 59669
Join Date: Apr 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Bend, OR
Vehicle:
06 F-350

Default

Ok I'll try to help, I've had the same issues, I ran a obdII scan and for one maf i got low voltage and from my other bad one I go a no voltage reading. Those things really shouldn't be cleaned unless absolutly necessary. A car with a bad MAF will run for a few seconds then stall, you can try to force it to run but the thing is it will die when it is moving. The vacumm lines wouldn't cause this big of an issue and they certainly wouldn't through a CEL code. I just picked up one for my car for 40 buck shipped. Its a delicate sensor and you need to use caution around it. Good Luck.
Erconcepts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2007, 10:13 PM   #21
Erconcepts
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 59669
Join Date: Apr 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Bend, OR
Vehicle:
06 F-350

Default

Might I add this is an issue I had with a car I bought from ebay, once I put the new MAF in it the thing ran like a champ. And also one my other one after a trip to the beach water went alittle crazy.
Erconcepts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2007, 09:36 PM   #22
Nihilator
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 84888
Join Date: Apr 2005
Default

Storm's used MAF did the trick. Installed it, turned the ignition over, and it ran like a champ. Like nothing was ever wrong.

It still had a CEL (MAF signal too low) when I reconnected the battery and started it up, but I cleared it with my VAG-COM and there was no CEL after restarting it.

Thanks, Storm!

--Chris
Nihilator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2007, 11:09 PM   #23
Storm
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 5218
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: SAUL'S Motorsports
Vehicle:
96L Most Over-
Developed Beater

Default

No Problem!

Jay Storm
Storm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2007, 06:12 PM   #24
Soundtweaker
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 137742
Join Date: Jan 2007
Default

I'm getting this exact problem too. I just bought a brand new MAF from Kragen and it still stalls out after a few seconds. Could it be a bad MAF?
Soundtweaker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2007, 07:23 PM   #25
Storm
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 5218
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: SAUL'S Motorsports
Vehicle:
96L Most Over-
Developed Beater

Default

Believe it or not....Murphy decided to throw me a curveball and instruct my MAF to start acting up days after selling my spare..... I cleaned it with some alcohol on a cotton swab and it was good for about 150 miles but this rain we're getting around here has me thinking my filter has been compromised.

I'm gonna change the filter out for a new one while my "replacement" spare MAF gets here to see if the problem goes away.

On my SAFC...the airflow signal (from the MAF) becomes erratic, and the motor just cuts out and catches right along with the erratic signal. <sigh>

Jay Storm
Storm is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Buddy pulled MAF plug... now car won't stay on 2.2Lbegin Service & Maintenance 5 03-16-2010 10:19 PM
Hydra: Car won't stay running after install 03scubaru Other Engine Management 11 07-24-2006 04:38 PM
My car won't stay running.....Utec Pacobeagle Engine Management & Tuning 5 09-18-2005 07:33 AM
HELP.. car won't stay running WRXonmind Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 3 04-12-2004 05:40 PM
at to mt swap in my97 impreza 2.2l brighton limestoner Subaru Conversions 1 04-29-2003 05:01 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2015 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2015, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.