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Old 04-27-2009, 04:01 PM   #76
Horkus
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Originally Posted by Horkus View Post
So I've finally have a pissing stock radiator I want to get rid off. So called around locally for some replacement Rads. All I found out was plastic rads including Genuine factory Subaru Rads are all over priced.
They were priced from $300-600 only plastic ones.
So Went to Ebay checked this out and found an All aluminum RAd for $180 shipped. So I went for it and within 5 days I received it.
Below are what I've done:

Open box time.





Replacing the Thermostat was a may as well thing. Trust me it's worth doing it at this time a lot more access.



you need to trim the ends approx 1/4" each end as this rad is 1/2" thicker than stock.


It my 3rd day on the Radiator and i've been Driving the car real hard and in traffic Jams , and I don't smell Coolant anymore and it's bone dry. So I say it's a pass
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Old 06-02-2009, 11:26 AM   #77
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just throwing in my 2 cents:
Put the same exact radiator in my car a week ago (same thermostat too ) and it's been perfect. quality looked great, fitment was awesome, even though it's thicker than the stock one

only thing I wanna mention is in regards to the bolt holes on the new one, to attach the fans to the radiator....you don't wanna use the stock screws off the old one. Those were a coarse thread screw that self tapped their way into a plastic hole. go to the store and pick up some M6x20 bolts (i forget how many at the moment, just count the bolt holes on the top of the radiator)

oh, and watch yourself under the hood, the alluminum top gets alot hotter to the touch than the old plastic top, if you accidentally brush up against it
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Old 06-02-2009, 03:59 PM   #78
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You are absolutely correct about the bolts. I actually had 2 bolts that not biting into the Rad, perhaps you are right about getting the right type of bolts.
The cooling capacity is obviously way more on this rad.
Why pay more for brand name stuff if you are only doing this for street and better than and cheaper than the plastic crap from the dealer or other brand name stuff?
I think you can get by using it for racing too....

ANd yes, I wasn't used to the bare metal on top and I got a quick burn from the top of the Rad hahaha...
Congrads on your new Rad. "thumbs up" for CX racing.
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Old 06-02-2009, 11:49 PM   #79
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can your purchase the cxracing from some place other than ebay?
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Old 06-03-2009, 03:34 AM   #80
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:33 PM   #81
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is this the correct radiator for my 06 sti
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=WRX
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:27 PM   #82
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is this the correct radiator for my 06 sti
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=WRX
It says it fits 02-07 WRX and STi, what do you think?

BTW, why don't you just get an aluminum radiator from Josh at Import Image? The ones he sells are better than this CX stuff.
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:36 PM   #83
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It says it fits 02-07 WRX and STi, what do you think?

BTW, why don't you just get an aluminum radiator from Josh at Import Image? The ones he sells are better than this CX stuff.
The ones he sells are not better. There is only one place in China that makes these....if you know, you know. I know. Trust me on this.
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:39 PM   #84
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The ones he sells are not better. There is only one place in China that makes these....if you know, you know. I know. Trust me on this.
Aye aye capitan
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:04 AM   #85
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The Core and the basic Rad consturction is same. The only different from Joshes, Koyo, Mi****moto or some other so called brand name is just a big fat stamp and other little decorations which you are paying the premiums for.
I have a Koyo and the CX/just intercooler side by side and they are absolutely IDentical.
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Old 06-08-2009, 03:05 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superorb View Post
It says it fits 02-07 WRX and STi, what do you think?

BTW, why don't you just get an aluminum radiator from Josh at Import Image? The ones he sells are better than this CX stuff.
i cant get the pages to load correctly,all i get is the first few words and a red X for the pic,thats why i asked

ill prob get the kit from josh because the deal w/hoses is pretty good.i just cant decide is a 160* stat is the way to go or just stay w/the stock 170*
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Old 06-08-2009, 07:17 AM   #87
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My CX Racing radiator has a pinhole at the passenger-side top/side seam.

JBWeld to the rescue.
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Old 06-08-2009, 07:01 PM   #88
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My CX Racing radiator has a pinhole at the passenger-side top/side seam.

JBWeld to the rescue.
I think the pinhole will eventually plug itself up as the coolant mixture thickens up a bit. but then again, the pin hole VERSUS pissin dripping from the stock plastic stuff? Still worth it. especially the cooling capacity.
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:12 AM   #89
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^^ that's annoying, but unfortunately something that happens from time to time....no matter what brand or where you buy it
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:15 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by Horkus View Post
The Core and the basic Rad consturction is same. The only different from Joshes, Koyo, Mi****moto or some other so called brand name is just a big fat stamp and other little decorations which you are paying the premiums for.
I have a Koyo and the CX/just intercooler side by side and they are absolutely IDentical.
I believed they were all the same too, but was clearly mistaken. A google search found these..you get what you pay for.







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Old 06-12-2009, 11:39 PM   #91
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^^ Are you saying the Mishimoto is better/worse? What should we be looking for to tell the difference? Welding?
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Old 06-13-2009, 05:42 PM   #92
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the welds are very different but the koyo is also alot thicker and looks to be better constructed,

is that a plastic cap on the mishimoto radiator wtf??
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Old 06-19-2009, 04:18 PM   #93
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My CXracing is garbage -- still have some kind of a seeping leak at the bottom. I bought it in December '08 but it wasn't installed on my car until 2 weeks ago (as part of my build).

Called CXRacing -- they won't do anything for me: "15 days...15 days"

The welds really are garbage on it, and their "customer service" sucks donkey balls.

Avoid this piece (of s**t).
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Old 06-19-2009, 05:25 PM   #94
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I have the ebay aluminum radiator. I've had it about 6 months. It's been fine up until recently. It just started a very slow drip at the drain plug. I think I am going to take the plastic plug out and put a bolt with a copper washer in place of it.
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Old 06-19-2009, 07:02 PM   #95
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The reason the koyo welds looks better it because they took the time to polish it and buff off the welds. The CX racing one didn't look like the mi****moto one at all tho.
But I have to give one thumbs up for crownjewel for an attempt to disprove me.
Good job.!!
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Old 06-20-2009, 11:51 PM   #96
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In regards to the last set of photos for the lower hose connection, looks like they welded it on, then discovered there was a big gap. "What do I do boss" "I dunno, just fill it with weld". Koyo designed it right in the first place.

I had the Koyo rad on my '02 (now sadly gone in favour of a 9-2X Linear and a special project), and fit and finish was excellent, the rad, along with a set of silicone hoses, and a high pressure cap STILL cost me less than a replacement factory rad from the dealer. Consider that if you skimp a couple hundred bucks on your rad, you stand to run into much higher costs when the cheaper one fails and you over heat in dramatic fashion.

Like it's been mentioned before, you get what you pay for.

Steve
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Old 06-21-2009, 08:18 AM   #97
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^^^^^Absolutely.

The CXRacing raditor was the ONLY place I cheaped-out on my build, and it figures that it's the ONE thing giving me trouble.

Lesson learned.
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Old 06-21-2009, 05:47 PM   #98
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^^^^^Absolutely.

The CXRacing raditor was the ONLY place I cheaped-out on my build, and it figures that it's the ONE thing giving me trouble.

Lesson learned.
what was the problem?
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Old 06-23-2009, 03:28 PM   #99
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Been running mine for a couple weeks now. Originally thought I had a leak, turned out to be one of the hoses that even though it looked securely fastened, when pressure applied to it leaked out. Reclamped that, and so far no problems, and about 5 degrees lower operating temps (I have a scanguage that I always have set to RPM, Water Temp, Intake Temp, and Voltage).
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Old 06-24-2009, 08:51 AM   #100
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what was the problem?
Initially, there was a pinhole leak at one of the top/side welds that I managed to fix with some JBweld.

Now there's an issue in the petcock area -- not 100% certain if it's the petcock o-ring or another crap weld.

Boo.
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