little low on Brake Fluid

[Lawsuby1]

I can just add some right?? But what kind do I put in, should i get some from the dealer or is it all the same stuff and get some at advance auto?

Thanks

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[orndog]

Unless you are really low there is no need to add. Brakes are a sealed system and as the pads wear the fluid will go down. New pads will push the fluid back up. If you do need to add, add what is written on your cap. Either Dot3 or Dot4 - no clue what yours takes.

[Lawsuby1]

o ok cause my brake light has been on for a while and I could figure out what it was. I thought it was something with my e-brake cause everytime you pull it up the light comes on, but it was always on. And they other day me and my friend checked my fluid and he said I should add some.( hes an evo guy) should we trust him??lol

[Trainable]

Low brake fluid is an indication that your pads or worn or there has been a problem. I would first check out the pads and if they are worn have them replaced and a fluid flush wouldn't be a bad idea if there hasn't been one recently. If the pads are fine I would do a full flush anyways and check for any problems in the system. I can't imagine that the fluid in the system is still good if the level has dropped without a clear cause.

[Lawsuby1]

ok, I have like 14500 miles. So maybe ill change the pads and do a flush.
What brand do you recommend for pads and fluid?

[Mulder]

Check your pads FIRST. As others have mentioned, in a non-leaking brake system the only reason for low fluid will be worn pads. If you just add fluid now and then install new pads later the reservoir may overflow when the pistons are retracted.

[Lawsuby1]

it shall be done. Thanks Mulder

[Bret_T]

Originally Posted by orndog

New pads will push the fluid back up.

Originally Posted by Mulder

If you just add fluid now and then install new pads later the reservoir may overflow when the pistons are retracted.

Guys, I'm going to have to disagree with your maintenance procedure here. When you're retracting a brake piston in order to install new pads, do not push the brake fluid back up through the system. The reason for this is that you don't want to push possibly dirty brake fluid back up through your brake system. Since the calipers are at the bottom of the system, most of the crud will collect down low near the bleader valve. While retracting the piston, have the bleader valve open to allow the fluid to escape. Then, assuming you're not going to do a complete brake system flush, top off your brake fluid.

Lawsuby1, I agree that you should check your pads first to see where they're at. Regardless though, you'll need to add fluid whether you replace the pads or not. Brake fluid is cheap, like $1 for a small can. Also, remember that once you open a sealed can of brake fluid, it begins absorbing moisture just like the fluid that's in your car right now.

[orndog]

If you are following Subaru's brake fluid change interval you shouldn't have crud in your system.

[Bret_T]

That's right, you shouldn't. The odds are they you can get away with pushing the brake fluid back up through the system. However, considering the cost of a small bottle brake fluid versus the cost of repairing brake system damage, I think that spending $1 on the brake fluid is a wise investment.

[Lawsuby1]

true. I wouldnt mind doing a change. Some ppl change their oil every 10000000000 miles, some every 10 miles. Different kind or car ppl.
But if looked at my pads before, ill take another look. And if I gotta change them, ill buy some new pads and some fluid and do a flush. Hopefully its not that hard, ive done pads but never fluid.

So what pads should i look at getting?

[z&cobb]

Let's consider low fluid levels first, and then get to brake pads.

Just a couple of facts from Subaru "Mechanism and Function" for the 02 wrx.

Pg. BR-8
"When the brake fluid level drops to a level approximately 30 mm (1.18 in) below the maximum level and the float lowers accordingly, the magnet aligns with the reed switch, activating the reed switch contact. The warning light may, although momentarily, illuminate even when the brake fluid level is normal if the vehicle tilts or swing largely.

Pg. BR-3 Pad Wear Indicator
"Worn Pad 1.5 mm (0.059 in)"

I usually replace the pads well before this measurement. In going from about 10 mm new to 1.5 mm worn, fluid will transfer from the master cylinder to the caliper cylinder to take care of the increased volume. Thus you should check the level occasionally before the brake light comes on.

I use Subaru replacement brake pads in the winter, and EBC Red pads when it's hot out. Include with that with a high traction tire/wheel set to match the conditions. Others will have different opinions, for different requirements.

[Lawsuby1]

thanks. But my brake light is on alll the time. Its always on, no matter what.
And its actually kinda scary cause I had to use my brakes pretty hard cause this old lady went right in front of me and they didnt feel too great. I felt like I had no stopping power. I think im gonna do a brake change no matter what, it cant hurt.

[hybrid gti 2]

might be a good time to consider a braided line upgrade for a better pedal feel.

If it was me I would first verify the brakes condition. As adding fluid might be more of a band aid. As stated above. Yet make sure you don't have a fluid leak, as unlikely as that might be.

Also if you have a harbor freight near by. They sell a brake caliper for measuring rotors. I got a digital one for about $20.

[Lawsuby1]

ya i dont think i have one of those near me.lol

But I was on fastwrx and I see that ate superblue stuff and motul or whatever that other one is. Which one is better and should i use??

And for pads, i think im just gonna get hawks, that street performance ones.

Eventually ill do ss lines and rotors later. For right now i just wanna make sure i can stop.lol

[z&cobb]

Originally Posted by Lawsuby1

thanks. But my brake light is on alll the time. Its always on, no matter what.
And its actually kinda scary cause I had to use my brakes pretty hard cause this old lady went right in front of me and they didnt feel too great. I felt like I had no stopping power. I think im gonna do a brake change no matter what, it cant hurt.

Yes, it sounds like you need to do brake work.

Here's example coming from the other side, brakes that stop very well.

a few months ago I had to stop "instantly" for a deer while going down "dead man's hill" which as you can guess from the name is really steep. To make matters worse the road is cut deep into the hillside with 0 shoulders.

The g forces on the switch assembly, were sufficient to trigger the brake light. My passenger, said he had no idea I could stop the car that quickly. The light stayed on for a couple of days. I reset the computer and it went away, perhaps having nothing to do with it.

I confounded the experiment by moving the float when adding a little brake fluid. Previous to the hard braking incident, I had installed 8 new pads and new front rotors, so that's another confounding issue. Bedding must use a bit of fluid as well, and the quick emergency stop probably moved the pads out a bit more. So it's natural that the brake light went on.

I have to give credit to the F1GS-D3 tires that did the stopping without the ABS engaging.