Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday May 6, 2016
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Normally Aspirated Powertrain

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-28-2001, 04:09 AM   #1
HubbieScooby
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 7088
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Tropical Island
Vehicle:
01
Super Slow

Default Tune up time?? Z-max??

hey guys

its that time of year again....i need to change my oil...i have almost 9000 miles ..i was thinking of doing it myself this time....what oil do you guys like or prefere?? what about that Z-max stuff i see on TV?? my friend told me that stuff really works....they sell it for about $40...i think thats pretty good to keep the engine healthy and happy....i was thinking about spark plugs too...anything else im missing??....man so new at this stuff....its great to have fellow subies to give advice....thanx

hugh
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
HubbieScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 11-28-2001, 05:50 AM   #2
Yellow4g63
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 1882
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Moreno Valley, Ca
Thumbs down ummm

Snake Oil.
Yellow4g63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2001, 07:53 AM   #3
LUME
Banned
 
Member#: 2641
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza 2.5 RS
Dirt and Bird Poop

Default

I don't doubt that it does something.... but I'm pretty sure you would have to add it at EVERY oil change..... Just use a good synthetic (ie, not amsoil). I use Mobil 1.

--Roy
LUME is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2001, 08:58 AM   #4
Fast Billy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 6098
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Ossining, NY USA
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza 2.5RS
Silverthorn Metallic

Thumbs up

Mobil 1 10w30 - all the way!
Fast Billy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2001, 09:58 AM   #5
MY99 2.5GT
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 5030
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Martinsburg, WV, USA
Vehicle:
1999 Legacy 2.5GT
12 Legacy GT 13 Armada

Default

I used Z-max in my Legacy 2 oil changes ago. I really didn't notice any difference in smoothness of the engine or power. Who really keeps track of Gas Milage anyway?

However when I put it in my wifes 93 Nissan 240SX it made a noticable difference. Her Nissan has 130k miles and was running fairly rough, hesitated badly in higher gears. There was also a noisy tick that sounded slightly like metal grinding right underneath the valve cover. The car had a tune up a little over a year ago. So that didn't seem to be what was causing the hesitation. When I put the Z-max in it really helped. They claim it cleans the injectors and valves. This seems to have solved most of the hesitation problem.

The annoying ticking went away.

I haven't really watched the gas mileage but I am fairly pleased with the other advertised aspects of Z-Max. It certainly didn't return the car to new or add horspower like they make it seem but I think it was worth the money I paid.

Brad
MY99 2.5GT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2001, 01:43 PM   #6
Warp3
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 161
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: WNC
Vehicle:
06 WRX TR (SGM)
89 MR2 (Ice Blue)

Question

Quote:
Just use a good synthetic (ie, not amsoil). I use Mobil 1.
Huh??? I use Mobil 1 also, but was originally going to go with Amsoil. The only reason I didn't was I never remember to order my oil before it's time for an oil change and I can buy Mobil 1 locally. I've never heard anything bad about Amsoil or it's lubricants. Not to mention many synthetic oils (including Mobil 1) are not 100% synthetic. Amsoil's motor oils are 100% synthetic (there are a few other 100% synthetics but I don't recall which ones).

Regardless, back to the original topic:

Most, if not all, makers of "super lubricant" type products (DuraLube, ProLong, Slick 50) have been taken to court over their claims and many have been forced to stop making certain claims because they aren't true. I recall reading a few months ago that Z-max already has court proceedings going on against it. (Can't remember where the site was though.)

Shane -- http://www.warpthree.net
Warp3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2001, 01:44 PM   #7
Warp3
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 161
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: WNC
Vehicle:
06 WRX TR (SGM)
89 MR2 (Ice Blue)

Exclamation

UPDATE: Here's the story from the Federal Trade Commission's website:

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm
Warp3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2001, 02:09 PM   #8
LUME
Banned
 
Member#: 2641
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza 2.5 RS
Dirt and Bird Poop

Default

Mobil 1 is full synthetic. Amsoil uses this hogwash as propaganda. It's just that the chemical ingredients for Mobil one are organic. The chemistry is then engineered to form mobil 1 synthetics. Amsoil uses in-organic chemicals. Not really a big deal in either case, however....

Amsoil oils do not carry API certification (same with redline). The reason for this is that the oil causes certain polutants to damage catalytic converters. This is a huge deal in street cars, not so huge in race cars.

Bottom line, use mobil one. It's API certified....

--Roy
LUME is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2001, 04:26 PM   #9
HubbieScooby
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 7088
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Tropical Island
Vehicle:
01
Super Slow

Default

man that was close!! i was almost gonna dump z-max into my suby....thanx Warp3 for the article....so i guess everyone is for mobil 1 huh? they don't have mobil here in hawaii....but ill try to shop around....thanx guys...all your tips are much appreciated

hugh
HubbieScooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2001, 07:34 PM   #10
subieman
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 11174
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Oakland, N.J.
Vehicle:
2000 Maxima SE

Default

Thanks guys, I almost bought that stuff yesterday. I am really glad I waited.
subieman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2001, 07:56 PM   #11
Richard L.
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 8465
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Puget Sound, WA
Vehicle:
'00 2.5RS Coupe, AW
'93 GMC Typhoon AWD

Default

Like the man said, there is no need to add Z-max or any other crap to your motor oil.

Here is what Slick50 can do to a main bearing: [Click Me]

--
Richard
Richard L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2001, 09:39 PM   #12
Warp3
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 161
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: WNC
Vehicle:
06 WRX TR (SGM)
89 MR2 (Ice Blue)

Default

Quote:
It's just that the chemical ingredients for Mobil one are organic. The chemistry is then engineered to form mobil 1 synthetics. Amsoil uses in-organic chemicals. Not really a big deal in either case, however....
I'd heard the "Mobil 1 isn't 100% synthetic" line (from several places) but I'd never really heard an explanation. Thanks.

Quote:
Amsoil oils do not carry API certification (same with redline). The reason for this is that the oil causes certain polutants to damage catalytic converters. This is a huge deal in street cars, not so huge in race cars.
Hmmm...I'm gonna have to check this out now that you said something... Da** my curious mind...

Quote:
thanx Warp3 for the article
No problem. I just searched for "z-max court" and that was one of the first results. I knew they were taken to court but hadn't heard any further details. I read the article just before I posted the URL so that was my first time reading that info also.

Shane -- http://www.warpthree.net
Warp3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2001, 10:42 PM   #13
Warp3
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 161
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: WNC
Vehicle:
06 WRX TR (SGM)
89 MR2 (Ice Blue)

Default

Quote:
LUME:
Amsoil oils do not carry API certification (same with redline). The reason for this is that the oil causes certain polutants to damage catalytic converters. This is a huge deal in street cars, not so huge in race cars.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Warp3:
Hmmm...I'm gonna have to check this out now that you said something... Da** my curious mind...
UPDATE: I didn't find anything about the pollutants issue you mentioned (yet) but I did discover that Amsoil's XL-7500 series oils (their 7500 mile interval stuff that they released only a couple years ago) ARE API-certified. The rest of their oils (that they specify a much longer oil change interval for) are not API-certified.

Shane -- http://www.warpthree.net
Warp3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2001, 08:28 AM   #14
LUME
Banned
 
Member#: 2641
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza 2.5 RS
Dirt and Bird Poop

Default

This was posted to Phax (philly region autox list) by Jon Rush (re: amsoil)

At 110 gallons, I'm amazed that you are running Amsoil when Mobil 1 is
generally acknowledged to be equal if not superior at half the retail
price. Perhaps your wholesale price is more in line. What follows is a very
interesting article with some good links on synthetics. Alfred and
Steven Scharf are the authors.

==================Begin Alfred
Listed alphabetically --- indicates the data was not available

Brand VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc

20W-50
AMSOIL 136 482 -38 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX 122 440 -15 .85 .12
Exxon High Performance 119 419 -13 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 125 465 -30 1.0 ---
Kendall GT-1 129 390 -25 1.0 .16
Pennzoil GT Perf. 120 460 -10 .9 ---
Quaker State Dlx. 155 430 -25 .9 ---
Red Line 150 503 -49 --- ---
Shell Truck Guard 130 450 -15 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden 4 174 440 -35 --- .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 174 440 -35 --- .13
Unocal 121 432 -11 .74 .12
Valvoline All Climate 125 430 -10 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 140 440 -10 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 140 425 -10 1.2 .20
Valvoline Synthetic 146 465 -40 <1.5 .12

20W-40
Castrol Multi-Grade 110 440 -15 .85 .12
Quaker State 121 415 -15 .9 ---

15W-50
Chevron 204 415 -18 .96 .11
Mobil 1 170 470 -55 --- ---
Mystic JT8 144 420 -20 1.7 .15
Red Line 152 503 -49 --- ---

5W-50
Castrol Syntec 180 437 -45 1.2 .10 .095 % Phosphor
Quaker State Synquest 173 457 -76 --- ---
Pennzoil Performax 176 --- -69 --- ---

5W-40
Havoline 170 450 -40 1.4 ---

15W-40
AMSOIL 135 460 -38 <.5 ---
Castrol 134 415 -15 1.3 .14
Chevron Delo 400 136 421 -27 1.0 ---
Exxon XD3 --- 417 -11 .9 .14
Exxon XD3 Extra 135 399 -11 .95 .13
Kendall GT-1 135 410 -25 1.0 .16
Mystic JT8 142 440 -20 1.7 .15
Red Line 149 495 -40 --- ---
Shell Rotella w/XLA 146 410 -25 1.0 .13
Valvoline All Fleet 140 --- -10 1.0 .15
Valvoline Turbo 140 420 -10 .99 .13

10W-30
AMSOIL 142 480 -70 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX 140 415 -33 .85 .12
Chevron Supreme 150 401 -26 .96 .11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135 392 -22 .70 .11
Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 400 -31 .85 .13
Havoline Formula 3 139 430 -30 1.0 ---
Kendall GT-1 139 390 -25 1.0 .16
Mobil 1 160 450 -65 --- ---
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo 140 410 -27 1.0 ---
Quaker State 156 410 -30 .9 ---
Red Line 139 475 -40 --- ---
Shell Fire and Ice 155 410 -35 .9 .12
Shell Super 2000 155 410 -35 1.0 .13
Shell Truck Guard 155 405 -35 1.0 .15
Spectro Golden M.G. 175 405 -40 --- ---
Unocal Super 153 428 -33 .92 .12
Valvoline All Climate 130 410 -26 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 135 410 -26 .99 .13
Valvoline Race 130 410 -26 1.2 .20
Valvoline Synthetic 140 450 -40 <1.5 .12

5W-30
AMSOIL 168 480 -76 <.5 ---
Castrol GTX 156 400 -35 .80 .12
Chevron Supreme 202? 354 -46 .96 .11
Chevron Supreme Synt. 165 446 -72 1.1 .12
Exxon Superflow HP 148 392 -22 .70 .11
Havoline Formula 3 158 420 -40 1.0 ---
Mobil 1 165 445 -65 --- ---
Mystic JT8 161 390 -25 .95 .1
Quaker State 165 405 -35 .9 ---
Red Line 151 455 -49 --- ---
Shell Fire and Ice 167 405 -35 .9 .12
Unocal 151 414 -33 .81 .12
Valvoline All Climate 135 405 -40 1.0 .11
Valvoline Turbo 158 405 -40 .99 .13
Valvoline Synthetic 160 435 -40 <1.5 .12

=============Begin Scharf
Beware of the blank spot for the %zinc on Amsoil.

The facts are as follows:

1. Amsoil products, other than the XL-7500 line, cannot
be API certified because the level of ZDDP exceeds
the API limits which results in too much phosphorus.
This is not in dispute, Amsoil stated this. See:

http://groups.google.com/groups?q=zd...ic=1&selm=3B0\
2A3A8.185B25C7%40pinn.net"

2. The API limit on the amount of ZDDP was put in place
because the phosphorus in the ZDDP shortens the life
of the catalytic converter; the more ZDDP the shorter
the life of the catalytic converter.

"http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/additive.htm"
"http://www.mixoil.com/ge_info.htm" scroll down to "Antiwear-EP"

The only site I found that argued that this was not true
was an Amsoil dealer's site (not the corporate Amsoil
site).

3. There are many synthetic oils, including one from
Amsoil, that meet the strict API certification
requirements. See:


"http://www.castrolusa.com/products/productpage1.asp?product_id=4&product_catego\
ry=1"
"http://www.pennzoil.com/prdsmktg/products/yourcar/synthetic/index.html"
"http://www.mobil1.com/index.jsp"

"http://www.francisfuels.com/Chevron_Motor_Oils/_Chevron_Synthetic/body_syntheti\
c_oil.htm"
"http://www.amsoil.com/products/xlf.html"

"http://thegenesisnetwork.equilon.com/genesis/prodinfopdf/out/HAVOLINE%20SYNTHET\
IC%20MOTOR%20OILS.pdf"
"http://www.valvoline.com/synpower/synproducts/motoroil.asp"

Not all products are available in all geographic areas.

4. The high level of ZDDP in the Amsoil non-API certified
oil (and other non-certified oils) provides better wear
protection than the API certified oils with the lower
level of ZDDP. So it would make sense to use these
non-API certified oils in vehicles without catalytic
converters, in fact this is recommended. Read:

"http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html"

which talks about how motorcycles are better off using an
oil with a higher level of phosphorus than is allowable in
the API certified oils.

5. The use of an oil that does not meet the API standards,
whether certified or not, could cause a manufacturer to
deny warranty coverage on items affected by the oil. Amsoil
stated:

"Major auto manufacturers and regulatory agencies have
determined that warranties must cover all equipment
failures unless they were directly caused by the
aftermarket product in question or by the maintenance
practice in question."


"http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&safe=off&th=c983d81f1e083642,14&rnum= 1&se\
lm=keller-2307971524260001%40duluth-dial-34.uslink.net"

Logically, since using an oil with too high a level of
phosphorus is a maintenance practice and product that
can directly cause a catalytic converter's life to be
shortened, this qualifies as something that a manufacturer
could deny warranty coverage over.

Of course by the time the catalytic converter fails, even
with a high ZDDP oil, it will most likely be out of
warranty anyway. Does Amsoil cover premature failure of
a vehicle's components that occur out of warranty? If
so, how do they determine how much of the failure is due
to the oil and how much is due to normal wear that would
have occurred anyway?

6. The response I got from Amsoil about this matter was:

"We have never received a complaint of premature converter
failure." Well geez, I guess that proves that the API limits
on ZDDP were put in place for no reason at all.

So the absence of complaints proves that the high phosphorus
level doesn't do what the API says it does?!

Amsoil's response is inadequate for several reasons:

i. The whole reason that API put the ZDDP limit in place was
because too much phosphorus (a component of ZDDP) shortens
the life of the catalytic converter.

ii. Until an Amsoil rep let the real reason for
non-certification slip out, no one who was using Amsoil
would have the slightest reason to even suspect that an
early catalytic converter failure could be affected by
the type of motor oil. The revelation about the reason
Amsoil's products (other than the XL-7500 line) could not
be API certified came only about a few months ago.

iii. Until an Amsoil rep let the real reason for
non-certification slip out there were all sorts of
bizarre reasons for the non-certification being put
forward by Amsoil and its dealers. Now we know the
real reason, and IMVAIO Amsoil made a BIG mistake
in not just stating the real reason several years ago
and promoting its API certified line for vehicles with
catalytic converters. They looked extremely foolish by
posting all those bizarre and weak excuses.

7. Some people may actually decide that shortening the
life of the catalytic converter is worth the extra
wear protection gained from oils with a higher level
of ZDDP. These people can use the Amsoil or one of
the petroleum based oils that have a higher ZDDP level
and hence are not API certified.

I can't imagine the upside of Amsoil not simply doing some
product differentiation between their products for newer
vehicles and their products for jet skis, boats, and older
cars. They could turn the whole API thing to their advantage
and proclaim the benefit of the higher ZDDP level on their
non-XL-7500 line, and correctly claim that most of their
competitors don't have a synthetic with this extra level of
protection. And get this--it would actually be true! Of
course they don't have to say that there are plenty of
specialty non-synthetics without API certification that
also have the higher ZDDP levels.

I suspect that Redline synthetics fall into the same category
of "too much ZDDP for API certification" as Amsoil. But since
Redline does not sell via multi-level marketing they do not
have the reputation problem that Amsoil has and hence do not
invite scrutiny. I don't see any indication of API
certification on the Redline web site.
LUME is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2001, 01:15 PM   #15
Warp3
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 161
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: WNC
Vehicle:
06 WRX TR (SGM)
89 MR2 (Ice Blue)

Thumbs up

Thanks for the info, LUME. I've learned a TON from this thread. I think I'll stick with Mobil 1 for now.

Shane -- http://www.warpthree.net
Warp3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2001, 08:54 AM   #16
LUME
Banned
 
Member#: 2641
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza 2.5 RS
Dirt and Bird Poop

Default

No problem.

--Roy

PS. I am anti-amsoil for a reason.... they threatened to sue me about 5 years ago for my "ScAmsoil" website....
LUME is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2001, 11:45 AM   #17
Joncas
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 5349
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Central New York
Default

Now before you flame me let me just say that I use Mobil One Synthetic. That being said I would like to say there are oil additives that do work. They won't improve mileage yada yada, but they do help to cut down wear. Some are just plain bull though. Know the fakes.

My dad once helped develop one an oil additive but I don't think anyone ever went public with it as far as I know so I do have a bit of background.

Currently my dad uses Prolong in his cars (with normal oil). I know that our van blew an oil seal a few weeks ago and with 0 oil in the motor my mom made a tip of about 30 miles home at normal speeds. Yes it did wreck one main bearing but thats it. I don't think that the car would have lasted the 40 minutes without the Prolong.

As for the typhoon's bearing picture - I don't think slick 50 caused that. Looks like oil starvation to me. You wouldn't get the big cuts in the bearing if there was oil in there, it would just wear faster. However because it looks like the edges are straight and the tab is still there on it I would say that it was over a longer period of time. If there had been no oil in bearing it would look much different. Maybe racing around with low oil and then taking corners might have caused a starvation.

My opinion. Flame suit on.
Joncas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2001, 11:58 AM   #18
LUME
Banned
 
Member#: 2641
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza 2.5 RS
Dirt and Bird Poop

Default

My sister drove a mid 80's hyundai excel for ONE MONTH with NO OIL at all. Zero engine damage, zero oil. Here's the story:

My sister comes home for thanksgiving (8 hour trip from Tallahasse to Boca Raton FL). She complains that her car has no power. I check it out, turns out one of the sparkplug boots popped off. I put it back on, everything ok. I check oil (just in case)... no oil on dipstick. So I pull the oil drain plug... no oil comes out.

I run into the house and explain to my sister that she cannot drive the car anymore until oil is put in the car. Thats that.

Xmas pulls around and my sister drives back home. "Did you put oil in the car?". "Yeah, I think dad did". Dad says "Hmm? What are you talking about?" I run out to check car, oil sump is bone dry.

So help me God, she drove that car for a month with no oil!!!
Strange but true.

--Roy

PS. Don't try this at home
PPS. No slick 50, no marvel mystery oil, no prolong, no zMax, no amsoil, no snakeoil.... weird.
PPPS. I drove my riding lawnmore for 10 minutes with no oil before the engine died (making a SCREEEEEEETCHing noise as it did... )
LUME is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2001, 12:00 PM   #19
LUME
Banned
 
Member#: 2641
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza 2.5 RS
Dirt and Bird Poop

Default

oops, that should read "lawnmower"...
LUME is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2001, 01:14 PM   #20
jwainwri
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 7805
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Fremont, CA
Default

SO I know I've seen this before I just need more conformation.

Looking through the owners manula it seems that the oil should be changed ever 7500 mi unless there is hard driving which probably applies to everyone. Then is 3000 to 5000 fine with regular oil?

Can you really go 10,000 with Mobil 1?

Lume I bet your sister went to FSU. No wonder she drove the car without oil.
jwainwri is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2001, 01:15 PM   #21
Richard L.
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 8465
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Puget Sound, WA
Vehicle:
'00 2.5RS Coupe, AW
'93 GMC Typhoon AWD

Default

Joncas, you are right about oil starvation being the main cause of my main bearing failure. Slick 50 contains PTFE, or "Teflon" particles. These are solid particles. Besides coating moving parts, they also tend to coat non-moving parts and clog oil passages and oil filter. I'm pretty anal about checking my oil level, and I can guarantee that my Typhoon never ran low on oil.

Here is a link to Slick 50 FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_Slick_501.html

Here is another link to Slick 50: http://www.msgroup.org/TIP043.html

Here is the settlement on charges against Slick 50: http://www.miata.net/garage/slickftc2.html

Here is Raysic vs. Slick 50 settlement: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/legal/s50fin.html

Here is Slick 50 Settlement from the Sept. issue of Motor Magazine: http://www.theherd.com/articles/slick50.html

Unfortunately, Slick 50 was added to my motor by the previous owner when the truck had 5000 miles on it. I will never mix another oil additive to my Mobil 1 10w-30 synthetic oil again.

--
Richard
Richard L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2001, 03:07 PM   #22
LUME
Banned
 
Member#: 2641
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza 2.5 RS
Dirt and Bird Poop

Default

Quote:
Lume I bet your sister went to FSU. No wonder she drove the car without oil.
Amen!

C-A-N-E-S! Fight! Fight! Fight!

--Roy
LUME is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
60k miles tune up / Timing belt? alwrxwu Service & Maintenance 3 04-24-2006 02:01 AM
Tune up time CitySubie Service & Maintenance 2 06-08-2005 05:09 PM
tune up time RIGGS-WRX Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 2 04-03-2004 11:50 PM
('93-'01) It's Tune Up Time. suby2point5rs Impreza Forum 2 03-22-2003 01:33 PM
30000 Tune-up time/Strange noise skeisenb Legacy Forum 6 03-17-2002 12:51 AM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2016 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2016, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.