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Old 01-26-2007, 03:55 AM   #1
gypsymoth
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Default separating the transmission from the engine

I've been working on replacing the clutch on my 2001 2.5 RS this week. Everything that needs to be taken off is off now. So a friend and I tried to separate the transmission from the engine. But no luck! The two moves together as one. We pulled off the starter, two bolts on the passenger side, two bolts on the bottom, and two nuts on the bottom. We wiggled as much as we can. We put a jack under the transmission, lowered it as much as we can. But made no difference. The transmission is well attached to the engine. What did we miss?

Chieh
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Old 01-26-2007, 04:28 AM   #2
06grayrex
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Not for sure what you missed,but try putting a block of wood on the trans housing where the started went and hit a couple of times with a hammer....If you haven't already..
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Old 01-26-2007, 04:32 AM   #3
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Is there any bolts on top of trans close to where the starter went?
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Old 01-26-2007, 01:35 PM   #4
gypsymoth
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I think the two bolts for the starter are also the bolts for the transmission.

Chieh
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Old 01-26-2007, 01:59 PM   #5
rt4me
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A month ago friends and I tried tackling replacing the clutch in my WRX. None of were noobs at working on cars but we just couldn't get the engine and tranny separated. We kept wondering what we were missing.

Time was short so I ended up having it taken to a shop. We didn't miss anything, we just couldn't get enough leverage to pop them apart (it was on jack stands, not a lift). If your setup is similar to mine, I'd say get under the car with the biggest pry bar you've got and go to town. I watched the tech pop my tranny off in under a minute when he had the leverage...nothing else needed to be removed so we didn't miss anything.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:04 PM   #6
davisclan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rt4me View Post
A month ago friends and I tried tackling replacing the clutch in my WRX. None of were noobs at working on cars but we just couldn't get the engine and tranny separated. We kept wondering what we were missing.

Time was short so I ended up having it taken to a shop. We didn't miss anything, we just couldn't get enough leverage to pop them apart (it was on jack stands, not a lift). If your setup is similar to mine, I'd say get under the car with the biggest pry bar you've got and go to town. I watched the tech pop my tranny off in under a minute when he had the leverage...nothing else needed to be removed so we didn't miss anything.
Where did you get the pry bar in. I need a crack or a starting point. Banging with a chisel doesnt seem great.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:40 PM   #7
leecea
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With that model, do you have to remove the clutch release fork shaft like you do on a WRX? That's caught people out before, but not sure if it applies to your model.
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:09 PM   #8
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davisclan View Post

Where did you get the pry bar in. I need a crack or a starting point. Banging with a chisel doesnt seem great.
Start with a puddy knife, sharpen it on the ground if you have to, then a screwdriver, then another screwdriver and another and just keep working it till you get the prybar in and so on....

My recent rebuild had chisel marks on the BH... Hell the motor in my other car has SAWZALL marks on one side cause they CUT the dowel!!! (Love PO's)
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leecea View Post
With that model, do you have to remove the clutch release fork shaft like you do on a WRX? That's caught people out before, but not sure if it applies to your model.
Negative, push style clutch.. I think the 02-04 wrx where pull and then back to push 05up
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:00 AM   #10
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is the op sure the car has the oem trans with a push style clutch? All efforts will be fruitless or result in damage if this isnt established yet. Rusty dowel pins shouldnt present this much trouble.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:35 AM   #11
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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See my post above about my car having sawzall damage from seised dowl pins..
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:22 PM   #12
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I would suggest against using any kind of prying tool to seperate the engine and transmission. I have done this several time on many different subarus (i think I have replaced about four or five clutches to date, more than that in terms of just removing transmissions).

Both are made from cast aluminum and are very susceptable to damage. The two surfaces you would pry against are machined, mated flanges. Any damage here could cause the two assemblies to not align properly. While it might not fail spectacularly or immediatly, you can bet that trouble is a'comin...

The main problem I have run into is keeping the engine and transmission inline. You must remove the engine pitch-stop, but the the engine can rock forward and back.

Honestly, this is a two person job in my opinion. Have a buddy hold the intake manifold to steady the engine and tilt it forward or back as needed. (if attempting a solo removal, use some rope to secure the engine to the radiator core support to keep it from tilting too far rearward.)

From this point on you should be able to wiggle the transmission back and away from the engine fairly easily. Be sure the transmission is properly supported by a transmission jack before fully removing it.

The same principles apply on reinstallation. Clutch disc alignment is the primary concern, but if the engine and transmission mounting surfaces are not parallel, you will quickly become frustrated.
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:20 PM   #13
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by car_freak85 View Post
I would suggest against using any kind of prying tool to seperate the engine and transmission. I have done this several time on many different subarus (i think I have replaced about four or five clutches to date, more than that in terms of just removing transmissions).

Both are made from cast aluminum and are very susceptable to damage. The two surfaces you would pry against are machined, mated flanges. Any damage here could cause the two assemblies to not align properly. While it might not fail spectacularly or immediatly, you can bet that trouble is a'comin...

The main problem I have run into is keeping the engine and transmission inline. You must remove the engine pitch-stop, but the the engine can rock forward and back.

Honestly, this is a two person job in my opinion. Have a buddy hold the intake manifold to steady the engine and tilt it forward or back as needed. (if attempting a solo removal, use some rope to secure the engine to the radiator core support to keep it from tilting too far rearward.)

From this point on you should be able to wiggle the transmission back and away from the engine fairly easily. Be sure the transmission is properly supported by a transmission jack before fully removing it.

The same principles apply on reinstallation. Clutch disc alignment is the primary concern, but if the engine and transmission mounting surfaces are not parallel, you will quickly become frustrated.
You haven't done enough of them yet... it's a LOT stronger than you might think... I could take pics of the chisel marks in one of mine.. I didn't put them there mind you, but you'd REALLY have to be doing something wrong to muck up the bell housing..


And also WITH all of that, you didn't once mention HOW you got your motors apart, you only mention the point AFTER the dowels are free...
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:31 PM   #14
car_freak85
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The whole point is, if you keep the engine and trans aligned, they should slip apart pretty easily.

No hammering, no chisels, no pry bars, just some elbow grease. Pull on the front differential stub shafts and if things are in line, plop, out slides the trans.

Honestly, it is quite simple, it just takes some patience and forethought.

I'll be doing the clutch on my Dad's STI soon, maybe I'll do a write up then...
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:24 PM   #15
fastnoypi
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are you using an engine hoist? it helps especially if your engine mount studs are cleared from your crossmember. Then you should be able to grab your intake manifold and wiggle the engine slightly off the dowels to fit a large screwdriver in the gaps by the dowels to finish the separation.

IMO, theres no reason to be using a chisel
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:25 PM   #16
taco15
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both swaps I've done I've learned that the trick is to place a block under the tranny and jack it up until it hits the tunnel area. only then with an engine joist attached do i wiggle it apart. and I mean WIGGLE!! It's biotch but comes out every time.

make sure to leave the tranny lifted when reinstalling.
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:37 PM   #17
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Use a painters tool in the flat just to the inboard side of the top starter bolts. Tap gently with a dead blow, and slowly follow the tool towards the passengers side.

As stated, the trick is to open the gap slowly, and try to keep things even as it's coming apart.
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:18 PM   #18
car_freak85
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No, really, you do NOT need to use ANYTHING to pry/split/force the engine and transmission apart.

NOT a screwdriver, NOT a chisel, NOT a painter's 5-in-1, not nothing.

Make sure the two parts are in line and not dangling/wobbling.

Use patience and braun to seperate them.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:08 PM   #19
davisclan
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I managed yesterday !!!! I tried the screw driver and it suddenly popped. I put it down to the extra prayer :-)
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