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Old 01-23-2002, 07:34 PM   #51
imprezive
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whooosh!
That's the sound of that going over my head.
So what you are trying to say is that my idea won't work?
Any ideas that aren't $2500 like the tec-ii
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Old 01-23-2002, 11:54 PM   #52
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Yeah
Quote:
NEW ECU and bigger injectors (TECII, Haltec, Wolf, Link, etc...) like AndresRS01 monster NA car doing low 14's in Houston with a Haltec

Unichip and bigger injectors (Does Cobb still do this?)

Maybe the SDSEFI.com/eic.htm system, since you can adjust what level of vaccum/boost to have the extra injectors switch in, from -10 vacuum to +22 boost

Larry
That leaves option #2 and #3
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Old 01-24-2002, 06:55 PM   #53
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Do the 2002 2.5L have the same size injectors?
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Old 01-24-2002, 11:35 PM   #54
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yes, 280cc injectors at 43psi fuel pressure, that at 80psi flow about 320cc (or at 100% duty cycle flow about that)

Larry
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Old 01-25-2002, 01:56 AM   #55
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Quote:
Maybe the SDSEFI.com/eic.htm system, since you can adjust what level of vaccum/boost to have the extra injectors switch in, from -10 vacuum to +22 boost
tell me more!
$$$??? and URL PLease and thank you
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Old 01-25-2002, 07:38 AM   #56
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Um, I'd try www.sdsefi.com/eic.html

Ok, they did leave the "www" off the front and the "l" off the end of the address.
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Old 01-25-2002, 02:03 PM   #57
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OHHH!!!!! I tried to add www. but I forgot about the "l" at the end.
#3 looks nice and for only $475 it seems reasonable.
thanx
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Old 01-25-2002, 04:12 PM   #58
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now why would you do something silly like throttle body injection on an intake manifold like the EJ series? the only way fuel is going to get spread evenly is if the injectors are in the runners... hmm, like stock.

I know some people have it (cough Larry cough) but that I don't think it's smart.
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Old 01-25-2002, 05:46 PM   #59
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I open to suggestions.
What about bigger injecters and a FPR?
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Old 01-25-2002, 06:05 PM   #60
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Bigger injectors and that programmable map they were talking about in aftermarket FI would probably do the trick.
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Old 01-25-2002, 06:54 PM   #61
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Isn't there anything cheaper For that much moeny I could go turbo.
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Old 01-25-2002, 08:34 PM   #62
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I suspect an adjustable FPR and larger fuel pump would work for most things. Still talking $300 ish though.
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Old 01-26-2002, 02:22 PM   #63
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A rising rate fuel pressure riser? or is and adjustable FPR different? Just trying to learn this stuff.
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Old 01-27-2002, 02:20 AM   #64
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They are different, the RRFPR is for forced induction. The adjustable FPR lets you up the fuel pressure - my previous post about problems in a 2000+ with higher fuel pressure or SAFC was when I was using an adjustable FPR (not RRFPR).
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Old 01-27-2002, 06:13 PM   #65
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Cool! $300 is much better than $2500. Where can you buy a adjustable FRP? and any input from shiv would be cool too.
Sorry for all these newbie question. I wanted turbo for so long I did all me reaserch on turbo. But I just don't have the money for it.
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Old 01-28-2002, 02:49 AM   #66
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many companies make adjustable FPR (fuel pressure riser or regulator) liek weapon-R (which JCS said fall apart like Strepto's did).

The issue is that you can only go to between 45-50 psi before seeing problems at 50+ psi like I mentioned in my previous post. Stock idle fuel pressure is about 34, and with high flow fuel pump is about 43 I think, so a pump might be a better idea. It did help burninrubber's (along with intake, exhaust, and torque chip). PM him about that, or bring him into the discussion.

Larry
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Old 01-28-2002, 07:58 PM   #67
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I thought one of the torque chip's features was to add more fuel??

Or would I just need to get an adjustable fpr after I get the torque chip?

-justin
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Old 01-29-2002, 07:39 PM   #68
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I don't think the FPR is really need till you are pushing the limits with cams, heads, etc...

Just do the torque chip, maybe a fuel pump for that small boosy in pressure.

Larry
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Old 01-29-2002, 10:10 PM   #69
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well my plans are:
Spicy cams, UD pulley, intake, exhaust, headers, and mybe throttle body spacer or whatever you call it and a chip. so maybe just a fuel pump will be nessesary?

Last edited by imprezive; 01-30-2002 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 01-30-2002, 11:25 PM   #70
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I've gotten an email or two about this subject, so I figured I'd stop lurking. Instead of talking about correcting air fuel ratios, camshaft and spark advance, and airflow characteristics, I'll just say there is plenty of room left to play for N/A imprezas. 300 hp N/A sube's already exist. They can run on regular fuel, too, but not make 300hp at the same time. There's versatility in the simplicity of an N/A engine. You can cut other corners to make power rather than just increasing combustion pressure (boost!). You can get a better burn out of the mixture with better airflow and good tuning of things like spark and cam advance.

Why hasn't anyone tried a split duration camshaft or offset (lotus-type) valve lift on this motor? If someone could please post a dead on profile of a cobb cam, I'd really love to see it. A good torque cam has a rapid ramp. The more radical the ramp, the better the cam runs, until you chew guides and springs. There's more about getting the right amount of fuel to any engine than just a mL, L, or gal measurement. Look at it this way; Dude A is running a stock motor, 18psi, stock ECU, and good fuel delivery. Everything runs fine and he runs a solid 12. Dude B comes up running 14psi with good cams and better tuning on the same stock block, he's gonna beat guy A's ass! All because the air and fuel is delivered better to the other side of those valves! Not only is it delievered better, but it's used better as well. The computer is a major key to all of this. You don't have to run as much duration in a camshaft with better timing and fuel delivery. That means a lot in terms of daily driveability and engine longevity. There's more i could type, but I'm saving it for my website. Cheers! Gary
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Old 04-15-2002, 05:08 PM   #71
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Was this ever resolved???Fuel pump,torque chip?? whatever.Since i recently added Headers,my cars stumbles under 3000rpm after about 3500 it takes off and runs good.Feels like its runnin very rich.Ive reset the ECU a few times ,and just after, the car runs good for around 200 miles then it goes into its stumble mode and stays there.Any Help???Suggestions? Parts?somethin cheap would be great lol
Rudy

mods are ,cobb intake ,street cams,Borla headers, Random tech cat,Stromung mid and tail.U/O pulley, magnecors.
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Old 04-15-2002, 07:34 PM   #72
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Lightbulb Suggestion

Quote:
[i]Any Help???Suggestions? Parts?somethin cheap would be great lol
Rudy

mods are ,cobb intake ,street cams,Borla headers, Random tech cat,Stromung mid and tail.U/O pulley, magnecors. [/b]
Do you have anyway to tell if you are running rich or lean? Purchase an air/fuel ratio meter. Then you would know for sure if it's a problem with your fuel or not.
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Old 04-15-2002, 10:28 PM   #73
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Kevin,,i got the a/f guage today, will hook it up soon.It just feels like its boggin down at low end then frees itself up as the rpms get above 3000-3500.Thats where the Cobb cams come on but this is ridiculous,it like a turbo kicks in at that rpm and off you go .
Its a 4eat, maybe thats part of the problem,but when you kick it down it still boggs.Im guessin.Seems to run good after the ecu reset.
Thanks
Rudy
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