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Old 09-25-2008, 10:01 PM   #126
evankanga
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check this out...... http://picasaweb.google.com/evankanga/WRX#

the final 5 or 6 pics there show the cover, the old and the new.

the new coil packs have a larger diameter spacer/ bolt hole than the old style.

are people just using the skinny old style/original bolt and popping out the bolt plug thing, or are they drilling out the hole on the head for the new style bolt plug and using the skinny bolt.

??

i dont really want to drill in to the cover.

since this is not a direct fit.. does that mean i have some strange early jdm model ej20?

thanks all.... reallyy
--evan
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:14 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evankanga View Post
since this is not a direct fit.. does that mean i have some strange early jdm model ej20?
Yes.
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:23 PM   #128
evankanga
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any advice from the peanut gallery?
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:53 PM   #129
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As long as you can get it secured on top of the spark plug, fit isn't real important. You could remote mount the coils, take off the boot, and run short spark plug wires to each one if you really wanted to.

The main thing is you don't really want them shaking around and you want the spark plug to be fully engaged with the boot.
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:58 PM   #130
evankanga
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i will go out and check out what i can do fitment wise with the copper bolt home pressed out. i am afraid it is going to be a pain, and might need to dremmel off a little material from the area around the hole on the coil side to make it fit.

--maybe just mounting manifold mounter coil packs would be easier?
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Old 09-26-2008, 03:31 AM   #131
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I just finished doing mine (Legacy RS-RA heads, same as your van; offset holes), you have to hack off the big corner of the metal coil as pictured in the earlier post about Legacy fitment. I cut in about 1/2-inch deep from the corner... Use a Dremel, and buy a container of cutoff wheels. I tried a grinder, but it started to make a mess of the thin plates. Shoot it with some paint before install to prevent rust.

Left (drivers) side of the motor will fit easier than the other, for some reason, only a little filing of the ignitor case is needed. The other side required a lot of grinding (Dremel again, w/ drum sander) of the plastic case, on multiple corners, just work slowly and test fit a lot. Both sides will orient with the wire pigtail on the bottom. I re-used the original thin mount screws, one is plenty to hold it in.

It's a bit more of a hack on this motor, but end result is the same.
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Old 09-26-2008, 04:09 PM   #132
evankanga
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Aerotech

i have found much out today.. but check out my latest pics and see if it makes sense.

it seems i have two igniters to bypass. http://picasaweb.google.com/evankanga/WRX#
the last two pictures show i have two igniters[ up on the right corner.. is this normal???
there is also an airflow sensor connection on the intake

so if i have two igniters.... what to do?

i am sure i can get fitment, but the electrical would be nice to know ahead of time


253 255 2168 just to shoot the $%^& if it makes it any easier
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Old 09-26-2008, 05:17 PM   #133
evankanga
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the coil packs now fit perfect!

--still waiting on advice on the supposed two igniters shown in the pics
thanks for all the help.
--evan
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Old 09-26-2008, 05:44 PM   #134
evankanga
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i have to igniters?? http://picasaweb.google.com/evankang...47612070767858


#1
red--green stripe
blue[lighter blue]
black
green--yellow stripe
yellow--blue stripe

#2
red--green stripe\
blue[darker]
black
green--white stripe
yellow--blue stripe


does this make any sense to anyone.. and no -- i did not build this. i'm only trying to clean it up



--thanks evan
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Old 09-26-2008, 08:45 PM   #135
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Sorry, that's beyond my experience... never seen that before. My best guess is that there's one for each bank of cylinders... looks like the installer marked the positions. You are going to have to shoot the wires with a multimeter or continuity tester to see for sure what goes where.
Pull the plugs off the ignitors and check continuity between there and the coil connectors, and also to the ECU plug that has the ignition pins... make a diagram or map of what goes where, it will help.
What you're trying to do is establish the trigger path from the ECU to the ignitors to the coils, then eliminate the ignitors by bypassing them so the wiring goes from ECU right to the coils. Make sure your battery is disconnected first.
Pay attention to the 12V routing, as mentioned in the write-up, Subaru wiring is usually 12Vdc switched = yellow/red stripe, but that stops at the coil connector, the red wire on the coil pigtail is 12V, the yellow is the trigger.

Nice setup in that van...air/water intercooler and all! I have a 1986 Syncro, and can't use that setup since my gas tank is living in that space above the transaxle. Anyhow, I went over to the dark side and am doing a TDI conversion now, ditched the Subie setup.
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Old 09-26-2008, 09:07 PM   #136
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have fun with the tdi conversion

i did a 2001 ALH fly by wire with the immobilizer and everything.... and can only tell you to GO WITH A MECHANICAL INJECTION PUMP! no other advice needed.

as for gearing i did a 1.14 3rd and .70 4th with 29" BFG's on a syncro ... larger nozzles but with the manual tranny IP, and loved it. great MPG's do a TD, or AHU only

i also snapped an axle while wheeling///and flipped it over on it's side. whoops

thanks for the advice
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Old 09-26-2008, 09:09 PM   #137
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However... to the rest.. have you seen this and ...any advice??

thanks
evan
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:14 PM   #138
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well... i opened up the loams and traced wires and cut out the twin NA legacy igniters and made some temporary electrical connections. it fired right up and everything is fine so far.

solder next and then off for a test drive.

thanks everyone
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:52 PM   #139
Aerotech
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Nice!

I got mine all back together only to fry the (very rare and expensive) ECU with a mis-wired aftermarket O2 sensor... Took my sweet time with the coil setup, but rushed and botched a simple 3-wire connection.

Bollocks.
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Old 10-20-2008, 08:29 AM   #140
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Question on symptoms of failing coilpacks...

Is a repetetive hesitation on full boost (about 4500, 5500, 6000) a possible coil?

I was going to do this conversion anyway but it seems more urgent now.

My Power FC is reading 15-20 knock level when this happens.

Thanks,
-Mike.
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Old 10-20-2008, 12:52 PM   #141
rob
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Yep. Main symptom is misfires under boost, getting worse as boost and RPM goes up. Misfires will feel like hesitation or bucking when severe enough.

-Rob
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Old 10-20-2008, 01:17 PM   #142
mpaone
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Originally Posted by rob View Post
Yep. Main symptom is misfires under boost, getting worse as boost and RPM goes up. Misfires will feel like hesitation or bucking when severe enough.

-Rob
Awesome, thanks for the info.

Changed one out during lunch break (yes I am a sick man). Runs much better until I do the conversion.

-Mike.
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Old 11-06-2008, 01:46 AM   #143
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Will bad coils cause misfire that you can hear at idle but not break up at higher boost(12psi)? I do have a bit of hesitation sometime in the upper rpm range and then it cleans out and pulls hard again. Other times it pull hard right to redline its very random.
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Old 11-06-2008, 02:19 AM   #144
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Originally Posted by sniper512 View Post
Will bad coils cause misfire that you can hear at idle but not break up at higher boost(12psi)? I do have a bit of hesitation sometime in the upper rpm range and then it cleans out and pulls hard again. Other times it pull hard right to redline its very random.
does it hesitate under full gas and like 3/4 or even like 9/10 throttle feel fine?

that's how mine was and one of them was cracked
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Old 11-06-2008, 10:22 AM   #145
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Ya if your not at full throttle the car seems pretty good if not stronger than when at WOT. To me it feels like its pulling timing, but I guess it could be the coils causing misfires. The car doesn't break up even at full boost which is why I didn't think it was the coils, but I guess if they are on their way out this is how they would do it lol.
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Old 11-06-2008, 08:38 PM   #146
mpaone
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Completed (sort of) my coil conversion tonight. I just twisted and taped the ignitor wires for now to ensure it was all connected correctly.

Did not actually go for a ride since I have other things to install but let it warm up and revved it to about 6k. It is smooth as butter up top but idle is a little rough and searched between 1500 and 1000 for a while when cold. I think this is more the result of my PFC not being tuned correctly after removing the boost control kit and going back to stock solenoid and MAP.

I'll post back up once the car is tuned. I suppose I may have a bad coil but it's not likely (then again my stock MAP could be bad too).

-Mike.
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Old 11-08-2008, 11:11 PM   #147
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Will 05 STI coils work for this conversion?
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Old 11-19-2008, 10:38 PM   #148
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Going over the EJ20G while it's on the engine stand and sure enough, one of the coils is cracked. At least it will be easier to do while the motor is out of the car. Great write-up!
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Old 11-19-2008, 11:30 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper512 View Post
Will 05 STI coils work for this conversion?
Im using 05 STi coils, well supposedly from what DS1 says. It took many PM's and a couple months of BS shipping excuses to get them so who knows what they really are but at least they work.
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Old 11-20-2008, 01:17 AM   #150
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Nice well hopefully its the problem. It's just so hit or miss. Just before the car is fully warm it seems to go like a raped ape then dog at full temp. If you continue driving it, it will sometime be fast again. Could the IAC cause this issue or maybe even the recir valve?
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