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Old 03-08-2007, 11:32 PM   #26
BiggSean
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I have a question. I'm going to be swapping in an 06 STI tranny into my 05 WRX with the stock R160 rear end. Do I need to source out an automatic driveshaft or can I make use of the STI driveshaft?
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Old 03-09-2007, 02:35 AM   #27
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sti driveshaft will work, you just need to notch (drill out) the 4 holes on the rear flange of the driveshaft to be slightly closer together in order to fit your R160 rear diff.
an auto driveshaft would fit without any modification.
manual driveshaft will not work, its too long.

and a note about the above info...
WRX front axles changed from female to male midway through the 2004 model year. you can check which you have by looking at the axles where they enter the transmission. if there is a small axle pin going through the end of the green cv boot, you have female axles. if there is no pin going through, you've got male axles.

Has anyone confirmed that the 2007 USDM transmission has a 1.1:1 transfer case like the 2006? I am curious, but should have one in my posession in the next week or so, so if it hasnt yet been confirmed I will look into it then.

Also, in case anyone is doing a FULL swap, figured I'd add that the 2006 STi front axles have a revised ABS ring gear so they would have to be used with 2006 (and up?) hubs, or modified to fit.
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Old 03-10-2007, 02:30 PM   #28
vvnartvv12
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i just wanted to know if an 04 wrx tranny will fit directly into my 2002 wrx without having to change anything? if i do please specify.
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:13 PM   #29
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Sorry I have been absent guys, going through an unexpected divorce. and the answer is no, look above.
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Old 03-12-2007, 08:28 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashtke View Post
Sorry I have been absent guys, going through an unexpected divorce. and the answer is no, look above.
You are half wrong. Early 04 trannies have axle stubs. If you are swapping WRX (not STi) tranny and the 04 tranny has the axle stubs then it will swap right over.
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:24 AM   #31
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Still need the shifter, drive shaft, and other minor things
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:49 AM   #32
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No you don't. He is swapping a WRX tranny into a WRX. And he didn't say auto so I'm assuming his is already a manual.
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:21 PM   #33
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Update the 06 6-speed info. According to Andrewtech, the clutch issue is resolved by simply swapping the slave cylinder. I didnt get a chance to talk with them at length about this, but I trust their judgement.
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Old 03-19-2007, 09:29 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolRex View Post
No you don't. He is swapping a WRX tranny into a WRX. And he didn't say auto so I'm assuming his is already a manual.
Ohhhh sorry missed that have been a little distracted and thought that it might have been an on topic question rather than a completely different topic.

Also updated the 06 info.
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:15 PM   #35
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Just wanted to make sure I have everything I need before I attempt this swap at the end of this month. I have an 05 Wagon and the following parts:

06 STI tranny
STI flywheel
STI clutch
STI driveshaft
Clutch linkage
Shifter assembly
Neetronics Controller

I will be using my factory rear diff. Is there anything I overlooked? I just want to make sure I have all my bases covered before attempting this swap.
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Old 03-20-2007, 04:52 PM   #36
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Just did my swap last weekend. 06MT into 03 WRX w/ original R160 & original R&P. Some comments:
1) **EDIT 2/27/07: Ignore my previous comments on the dogbone. I was mistaken. There is no dogbone issue.**
2) As post #27 states, a STI driveshaft doesn't go onto an R160 input flange without some modification to the flange. The diameter of the bolt circle is larger on the STI than the WRX. You could slot the existing holes in the flange radially outward or you could rotate the flange (or shaft) 45 degrees to find new metal on the flange, then drill new holes. I preferred to do the redrill method because (in my perception) the location of the holes would be more accurate to give more even shear loading against the unthreaded portion of the bolts. Doing this accurately may prevent a failure if we ever were to heavily load our drivetrain (which we all do if we're reading this thread). You can get the flange off the rear end to make the job easier by removing the large nut and using a puller. This problem / task should be added to the list of at the top of the thread.
3) If using a STI drive shaft with a WRX rear end and WRX bolts you'll find that the thickness of the bolted end of the u-joint on the STI shaft is slightly thicker than it was on the WRX shaft. Consequently, the bolts barely penetrate through the thickness of the nuts. Some of the bolt thread within the nut is probably non load bearing partially formed thread. This probably isn't a problem, but to do it right I think the STI bolts should be used.
4) I reused the stock WRX front axles. My 06MT didn't originally have axle stubs. I had the seller fit a set of stubs to it at the time of sale (and the larger seals). I think that these stubs were aftermarket, but not sure of the source. Just a comment on these - the pin hole in the stub is of a larger diameter than the pin or the hole in the CV. This allows the CV to move inboard - outboard a mm or so. Probably not a problem.
5) It is amazing to set the STI trans next to the WRX trans. That thing is huge where it counts. After seeing that difference and having that image in my mind I was walking in to work this morning (at a Detroit car co engineering facility) and I walked past the bare chassis of a 30 foot straight truck. It had an auto trans which was nearly the same size as the 6MT. That was impressive even allowing for the fact that it was 2wd vs. 4wd.

Bigg Sean:
Drill to make 8.2mm holes.
Puller to get flange off R160.
Dogbone?? <<==EDIT: non-issue.***
6W Connector from STI harness to connect to DCCD & 2 trans switches?
Shift boot (or mod)
Longer bolts for driveshaft
Good clutch bleeding skills

Last edited by 03GLHWRX; 03-27-2007 at 03:49 PM. Reason: I was wrong about the need for a different dogbone.
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Old 03-20-2007, 07:31 PM   #37
BiggSean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03GLHWRX View Post
Just did my swap last weekend. 06MT into 03 WRX w/ original R160 & original R&P. Some comments:
1) The "dogbone" / bobble strut / torque brace that runs from the firewall to the transmission needs to be swapped. My WRX part is approx. 3/4" too long to fit. If this applies in general (not just my unique problem) then it should be added to the list of swap parts at the top of the thread. Has anyone else run into this / do you know the p/n?
2) As post #27 states, a STI driveshaft doesn't go onto an R160 input flange without some modification to the flange. The diameter of the bolt circle is larger on the STI than the WRX. You could slot the existing holes in the flange radially outward or you could rotate the flange (or shaft) 45 degrees to find new metal on the flange, then drill new holes. I preferred to do the redrill method because (in my perception) the location of the holes would be more accurate to give more even shear loading against the unthreaded portion of the bolts. Doing this accurately may prevent a failure if we ever were to heavily load our drivetrain (which we all do if we're reading this thread). You can get the flange off the rear end to make the job easier by removing the large nut and using a puller. This problem / task should be added to the list of at the top of the thread.
3) If using a STI drive shaft with a WRX rear end and WRX bolts you'll find that the thickness of the bolted end of the u-joint on the STI shaft is slightly thicker than it was on the WRX shaft. Consequently, the bolts barely penetrate through the thickness of the nuts. Some of the bolt thread within the nut is probably non load bearing partially formed thread. This probably isn't a problem, but to do it right I think the STI bolts should be used.
4) I reused the stock WRX front axles. My 06MT didn't originally have axle stubs. I had the seller fit a set of stubs to it at the time of sale (and the larger seals). I think that these stubs were aftermarket, but not sure of the source. Just a comment on these - the pin hole in the stub is of a larger diameter than the pin or the hole in the CV. This allows the CV to move inboard - outboard a mm or so. Probably not a problem.
5) It is amazing to set the STI trans next to the WRX trans. That thing is huge where it counts. After seeing that difference and having that image in my mind I was walking in to work this morning (at a Detroit car co engineering facility) and I walked past the bare chassis of a 30 foot straight truck. It had an auto trans which was nearly the same size as the 6MT. That was impressive even allowing for the fact that it was 2wd vs. 4wd.

Bigg Sean:
Drill to make 8.2mm holes.
Puller to get flange off R160.
Dogbone??
6W Connector from STI harness to connect to DCCD & 2 trans switches?
Shift boot (or mod)
Longer bolts for driveshaft
Good clutch bleeding skills
Thanks for that info, it was very thorough and helped a lot. Just out of curiosity, how long did the swap take you? I'll be doing this on a lift and will have the help of a friend who has performed this swap before on his WRX.

PM sent btw.
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Old 03-25-2007, 03:36 PM   #38
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Looking to put sti tranny setup in a 04 wagon anybody got the down low on things i need . I read the master swap but am unsure if wagon diff and axles are different. What is the most practical way to go. are there certain things that would be unnesicary or short cuts. Not jimmie rigs. short cuts
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:38 PM   #39
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now, it's just a matter of finding one...
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Old 03-30-2007, 09:57 AM   #40
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I've read that some 6 speed or all 6 speed have an oil pump and oil radiator. Is the oil pump external and visible? Is it electrical? Is the radiator external with lines that need to be run?
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Old 03-31-2007, 06:52 PM   #41
DEREK HOWARD
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I'm curious what kind of issue does switching the slave cylinder solve. I just finished my swap last night and I have a click or chatter, and I didn't swap it out. I'm hoping that handy piece of info solves my problem. Great posts BTW. Thanks
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Old 04-02-2007, 11:37 PM   #42
BiggSean
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We just completed this swap into my 05 wagon with an 06 tranny however we are having issues with getting the clutch to fully disengage. If you guys could do me a favor and look at this thread and offer any relevant advice, I would greatly appreciate it.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1235435
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Old 04-04-2007, 07:33 PM   #43
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Is anybody running jdm 5th gear conversions in their Sti?
Or know someone running the short 5 gear conversion?
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Old 04-07-2007, 11:24 AM   #44
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Im selling a Sti 6speed trans with only 25k miles on it.
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Old 04-07-2007, 11:25 AM   #45
BiggSean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COPPER STI View Post
Im selling a Sti 6speed trans with only 25k miles on it.
Might want to post it up in the appropriate forum then. You might also want to mention what year the tranny is.
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Old 04-08-2007, 08:30 PM   #46
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FWIW, the clutch slave cylinder from originally from my 2004 WRX 5-speed WRX tranmission works just fine on my 2004 STi 6MT.
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Old 04-09-2007, 12:08 PM   #47
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Had my 6 speed installed over the weekend by All Aspects Motorsports.

They were nice enough to let me hang out in the back and watch what they were doing while the swap was in progress.

Here are all the parts I bought:

04 USDM 6 speed
ACT HD Street Disc Kit - 04+ STI
ACT StreetLite Flywheel - 15.0 lbs - 04+ STI
Sti OEM 6 speed Clutch Fork
Driveshaft Shop Aluminium Driveshaft for WRX w/ 6 speed and R160
SS Braided Clutch Line
Sti OEM Shifter Linkage from an 06 (according to the ebay add)
Sti Shift knob
Kartboy Shifter Bushings (front and rear)
Sti Shifter Boot
3.9 R&P
Cusco Rear Diff and related bearings
Sti Group N - Transmission Mount
Rear Subframe locking bolts and TiC Clunk Killer bushing kit also known as "Unabombers Sexy Rear End"

Hopefully soon I can pick up Spiiders Auto DCCD controller.

Some things I noticed:

1. With the 6 speed clutch/flywheel in place the dust shield on the bottom was in the way. That was removed.
2. They needed to do some adjusting to the transmission cross member. They needed to lower it about 1/2 an inch. This was needed to help give clearance for the drive shaft.
3. Getting the flippin shift boot off is annoying as hell.
4. The 5 speed starter and slave cylinder were used. They had some issues getting it into the new bell housing so they ground the lip down a bit on the started and it fit fine.

Other than those issues everything else just seemed to go fine. Couple of other issues just involved a needing a bolt here and there.

The car feels great and and the rear end is chatty with the new diff.

The total cost came out to be just about $5200 for parts that gave me an amazing transmission, driveshaft, and rear end. Not including my half shafts the drive train should be able to take up to 600 hp. Currently I only have 230 hp at the wheels and my ultimate hp goal for now is 350 hp. The reason I did the transmission first is because this is my daily driver I wanted the least amount of downtime so rather than build the engine and blow up my transmission and wait for a new one I just decided to replace it while it was still working and still worth some money.

Last edited by VipersEatLotus; 04-09-2007 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 04-17-2007, 12:05 AM   #48
slvr05rexr
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What if want to swap out a 4AT for a 6MT? Is the same setup needed and is it worth it? 2005 wrx
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Old 04-29-2007, 12:52 PM   #49
nicad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
I've read that some 6 speed or all 6 speed have an oil pump and oil radiator. Is the oil pump external and visible? Is it electrical? Is the radiator external with lines that need to be run?
there is an external hardline that runs fluid to various parts of the transmission from the pump. I believe the spec C transmissions come from the factory with radiator fins on the line, turning it into a cooler. since the lines are external, you could easily buy the fittings, braided hose, heat exchanger and build your own oil cooler for pretty cheap.
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Old 05-03-2007, 10:52 PM   #50
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Sticky i think. " if this has been covered i havent read it" to make things clear. you can not use 5 speed clutch and flywheel. however you may use the 5 speed clutch disk. they seem to be alittle more affordable and i am currently running a six puck. the tobearing is the same. clutch fork is needed from 6 speed. the slave cylinders are identical the 6 speed is slightly thicker cast but is the same. i made the mistake of buying the 6 speed slave and paid 90 wasted money. u will need to get a auto wrx driveshaft or get yours shortened 1.5 inches of the front shaft. that is all i see that needed to be corrected thanks. ps if going with the 6 speed, yes it costs alot i didnt do much research on other stronger 5 speed gear sets i think i was driven toward the extra gear. but i will tell you what. i have an 05 sti trans, if you want to maintain the same 5th gear feeling the six speed is very close in same finial drive ratio. 3-4 are awesome, the whole car feels so much more refined. it feels as though you are always in boost and seems to get to 100+ way faster. hope this may help some of u stuck or trying to weigh the options ! "i was stranded for 1 month trying to figure out why the clutch was slipping." because i was told to use the 5 speed clutch and flywheel. good luck.
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