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Old 02-18-2007, 05:48 PM   #1
Balantz
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Default Brake fluid- does it really matter what kind you use?

That's my question: I'm about to upgrade my rotors and pads to DBA 4000 slotted, and Axxis Ultimate pads. Brake fluid is basically just a hydraulic fluid, right? So, unless I'm going to be tracking my car and boiling the fluid, it's not really necessary to have anything fancy, am I correct? Please, correct me if I'm wrong...

If it DOES matter, and there are bad, good, better, and best kinds of brake fluid, what would you all recommend?

2003 WRX w/ VF39 and supporting mods, pro-tuned, Perrin springs/sways.

Thanks!

~ Josh
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Old 02-18-2007, 05:51 PM   #2
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Depends on how fast you want to stop. Higher boiling point on the fuid is better. As well there was another factor but I am sure someone else will remind me what that is. But with a larger turbo and stock brakes you can use every bit of brakes you can use. Suggest braded lines.

Last edited by hybrid gti 2; 02-18-2007 at 05:52 PM. Reason: missed your brake upgrades
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Old 02-18-2007, 06:00 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid gti 2 View Post
Depends on how fast you want to stop. Higher boiling point on the fuid is better. As well there was another factor but I am sure someone else will remind me what that is. But with a larger turbo and stock brakes you can use every bit of brakes you can use. Suggest braded lines.
Isn't the boiling point only something you reach after repeated hard braking?

What exactly do braided lines do?

Thank you for the feedback.
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Old 02-18-2007, 06:09 PM   #4
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Not to be rude but use the search button next time

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=995498 for all of your maintance needs

and to be more exact here is the link for brake fluids
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-18-2007, 06:25 PM   #5
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Wow...the power or NASIOC. Thank you, AlmostFast. Close the thread, moderators! Questions answered!

~ Josh
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Old 02-18-2007, 10:52 PM   #6
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ATE blue for every other flush, so you visually know you have purged all old fluid.... Would make it easier doing fast flushes before/after track sessions.
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Old 02-19-2007, 12:43 AM   #7
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...I would SERIOUSLY re-think the Ultimates.....they dust like MAD...and they eat rotors....


but they ARE cheap and work rather well FOR THE STREET
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Old 02-19-2007, 12:57 AM   #8
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not sure about the eat rotors part. But they dust like mad. come stock with stoptech brakes.
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Old 02-19-2007, 09:23 AM   #9
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Upgraded my STI with Braided Lines, Hawk HPS Front & Rear Pads, and Super Blue Racing Brake fluid. All I can say is WOW...cheap and excellent upgrade.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:52 AM   #10
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ATE Super Blue is perfect for 95% of subaru enthusiasts (including me), Motul 600 for the rest.


- Andrew
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:58 AM   #11
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what do you mean by the "rest" i have motul 600 just because that's what they had, i also have stoptech lines, dba 4000 slotted front and rea, Hawk hps pads, and cusco master cylinder brace. is super blue better? i don't race, auto-x, track my car it's a daily driver
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Old 02-19-2007, 12:11 PM   #12
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"Better" brake fluid or that of a higher boiling point won't make your car stop any better, faster or whatever.

All it will do is extend the operational level of the fluid at sustained upper temp levels.

If you're not boiling what you have now, you don't need higher bp fluid.
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Old 02-19-2007, 12:43 PM   #13
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Depends on how fast you're going to go. I've cooked Motul RBF600 at the track. If you're tracking the car please look into brake ducts AND good fluid. I'm personally using Castrol SRF, but it is pricey.

San
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Old 02-19-2007, 12:47 PM   #14
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Motul 600 is just a tiny tiny bit more for the track guys. Like Todd said, it won't give you any more braking power then the Super Blue, but good if you see higher temps. So for you, ATE superblue will do the job, and as far as I know, lasts a little longer.


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Old 02-19-2007, 12:50 PM   #15
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I don't know why stoptech supplies motul 600 with their high performance street rigs because rarely do you reach boiling temps while driving on the street. Aside from boiling temperature, the main difference between something like motul 600 and super blue is that over time, the the motul 600 will absorb more water and actually drop your boiling temperature sooner than the super blue would. So for street driving, your better off with the super blue. motul really is only beneficial for tracking purposes. It works fine for the street, but you would probably have to change it more often than the super blue.
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Old 02-19-2007, 04:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fresh2def View Post
Upgraded my STI with Braided Lines, Hawk HPS Front & Rear Pads, and Super Blue Racing Brake fluid. All I can say is WOW...cheap and excellent upgrade.
The hps pads are what I have now. I rarely get them hot enough to make them work.
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Old 02-19-2007, 04:33 PM   #17
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Really? I have HPS pads on my Forester and they're great all the time, even in the way below freezing temps we've had lately.

Not a squeek out of them, decent feel, and enough braking power for me.

- Andrew
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Old 02-19-2007, 05:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by complexx View Post
Aside from boiling temperature, the main difference between something like motul 600 and super blue is that over time, the the motul 600 will absorb more water and actually drop your boiling temperature sooner than the super blue would.
Huh?
ATE Superblue dry=536, wet=396 deg F
Motul 600 dry=593, wet=420 deg F

Motul has better wet characteristics, no?
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Old 02-19-2007, 05:29 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Really? I have HPS pads on my Forester and they're great all the time, even in the way below freezing temps we've had lately.

Not a squeek out of them, decent feel, and enough braking power for me.

- Andrew
They will allow general good stoping until you stomp on them then they take longer distance when cold. Atlest from my findings.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid gti 2 View Post
They will allow general good stoping until you stomp on them then they take longer distance when cold.
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:51 AM   #21
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No track, no auto-x = no reason to get expensive fluid right?
Valvoline brake fluid from store shelves?
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:08 AM   #22
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A great brake fluid to use for street driven/enthusiastically driven cars is Valvoline Syntech. For those that don't wanna spend $10-20 a pint on high-end DOT 5.1 stuff, the Valvoline is a DOT 4 that exceeds the DOT 5.1 dry minimums and comes within about 20degrees of the wet minimums. Also runs like $6 a quart, so its more than enough to bleed out a whole 4-corner brake job with plenty leftover. Its widely avail everywhere, and is definately 100x better than the cheapo DOT3 stuff you can get for $1/pint everywhere.

Even just out bedding-in oem/cheapo pads on a street car, i can boil my fluid using DOT3 stuff in about 2-3 hard stops (after its warmed up with some slow stops). After 2-3 more i have no brakes hardly. Couldn't even auto-x with that stuff.
Using the Syntech, I can put in an easy half dozen hard stops with no appreciable loss in braking.

So yes, if you never, ever drive your car in anything but grandma-style, then a cheapo dollar store fluid would work (or having your brakes bled by a Jiffy-lube type place). If you expect your car to handle the occassional bout of spirited driving down windy roads or what not, i would not stake my life on cheapo fluid.


BTW: glad to hear so many people say they love the HPS/SS lines combo. Thats all the brake work i'm planning for my STi for now, hope it improves a bit over whats in it now.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:12 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strohausii View Post
No track, no auto-x = no reason to get expensive fluid right?
Valvoline brake fluid from store shelves?
Both ATE Superblue and Motul are pretty cheap anyway (less then $20). ATE comes in larger cans.

- Andrew
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:40 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wobbletop View Post
Huh?
ATE Superblue dry=536, wet=396 deg F
Motul 600 dry=593, wet=420 deg F

Motul has better wet characteristics, no?

I said sooner, not lower. The main emphasis I was trying to make was the the tradeoff you get with high BP product, it will probably deteriorate at a faster rate than the lower BP product. I say probably because I'm not in the industry, just using logical thinking. I could be wrong, but I think it's a reasonable inference. I don't know the standard for deriving wet boiling point numbers.
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