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Old 05-05-2010, 10:20 AM   #301
six9chevelle.com
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Is there anyone out there that removed their valves on an '06 that wants to sell me the RH valve (the one under the intake)? PM me please.
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Old 05-11-2010, 05:59 PM   #302
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wow this was a lot to read, my main question is. when i do this on my car do i just ask cobb to turn off the codes or can i do them my self w/ the access port(i am ordering it any day now or if im lucky find someplace in socal to pick it up in person)? iv delt w/ this silly issue for 2yrs now and finally have some time and money to get it fixed aka removed.

thanks
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Old 05-12-2010, 03:20 PM   #303
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does anyone have pipe that goes from atmospheric sensor to passenger side block I can buy?
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Old 06-04-2010, 12:05 AM   #304
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Sorry to bring this from the dead, but I am planning on deleting mine as well due to a failed pump last night. My pump actually melted on the plastic intake tube for some strange reason and threw CEL's. I am not in a position to spend a lot of money so this sounds the most viable route as opposed to the 600+ replacement oem part.

I am pretty newbish in regards to the whole technicality of this thing, so I might need help from you guys. I'm going to pick up the Cosworth delete kit tomorrow and taking it to a local shop to get installed and I need to inform them about all the details which are inclusive in this thread.

Can I have a simple cliff notes of what must be done to get this right? I tried to go through this thread, but I think it made me even more confused.

Also, will I need to be tuned for this or can I just get the CEL's cleared via open source and be okay? My car is bone stock by the way. Thanks!
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Old 06-04-2010, 01:31 AM   #305
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you can get the cells deleted by a tuner through opensource. how much they will charge i dont know but you may just go ahead and get a protune while hes at it. car will drive better thats for sure.
if your car is 07 up you will need to keep the atmospheric pressure sensor like that one guy that cut his out and plugged it back in. as far as i know thats all that needs to be done.
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Old 06-29-2010, 12:33 AM   #306
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So just to clarify, the 2006 WRX TR does not have the atmospheric pressure sensor and I am clear to remove all parts? I took it to the dealer and found that the 1 prev owner began to remove the air pump. The pump itself, the black piece, is still installed. According to the dealer, the driver side is blocked off but the valves or hoses, they mentioned, are just hanging around. They said the guy might have been lazy because the passenger side is difficult. Almost 900 to fix ha ha...the KS Tech is about 30...but is that all I need? Just follow these instructions, and use AccessTUNER RACE (Beta) to remove the codes (free is my friend)?
Thanks
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:24 PM   #307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbocharged9589 View Post
So just to clarify, the 2006 WRX TR does not have the atmospheric pressure sensor and I am clear to remove all parts? I took it to the dealer and found that the 1 prev owner began to remove the air pump. The pump itself, the black piece, is still installed. According to the dealer, the driver side is blocked off but the valves or hoses, they mentioned, are just hanging around. They said the guy might have been lazy because the passenger side is difficult. Almost 900 to fix ha ha...the KS Tech is about 30...but is that all I need? Just follow these instructions, and use AccessTUNER RACE (Beta) to remove the codes (free is my friend)?
Thanks
That is correct. The 2006 WRX (TR/WRX/WRX-LTD) does not have an atmospheric sensor built into either secondary air-valves.

You can remove everything, but it's easier to leave the RH valve (tucked mostly under IM) and air-feed tube to the RH head in place. If you leave it in place, you or the repair shop will have to cut the head off of the air-feed tube where it terminates at the head so that the block-off plate can be installed.

The RH air-feed tube effectively sits on top of the back of the block (between block and transmission) and is under hoses, tubes, wiring harnesses, etc. So, this is why I say leave it in place. (FWIW, that's what I did and won't remove it until much later down the road when I decide to install a set of phenolic spacers and/or a turbo.)

The passenger's side requires the removal of the uppipe, which to do so requires the removal of the downpipe.

Having a lift would make this job so much easier (instead of having the front on jack-stands and me on my back, bending my arm/hand so I could use a hack-saw blade (by hand) to cut off the head of the air-feed tube).
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Old 07-02-2010, 10:40 AM   #308
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I have an 06,I removed the entire system on mine.
However,the drivers side bigger valve,I cut out the top sensor where the plug goes into.
Plugged that back into the harness,plugged the 2 openings on the heads,and removed everything.
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Old 07-03-2010, 03:21 AM   #309
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Has anyone actually confirmed via Logger or the like, that when you actually CUT the black plug area off the left solenoid the readings going to the ECU are correct?

When you unplug it it defaults to a set pressure, just wondering. easy enough to check for someone who has cut the plug already, check what it shows under Atmospheric pressure with it plugged in and unplugged, it should change.
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Old 07-03-2010, 08:04 AM   #310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baay View Post
Has anyone actually confirmed via Logger or the like, that when you actually CUT the black plug area off the left solenoid the readings going to the ECU are correct?

When you unplug it it defaults to a set pressure, just wondering. easy enough to check for someone who has cut the plug already, check what it shows under Atmospheric pressure with it plugged in and unplugged, it should change.
Yes, I did this exact thing when I pulled it off of my '09. It works perfectly
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Old 07-03-2010, 08:05 AM   #311
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I didnt check the pressure on mine after I removed it,but I also removed my tgv's at the same time and my car is throwing 4 codes for everything.
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Old 07-03-2010, 11:43 PM   #312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick View Post
Yes, I did this exact thing when I pulled it off of my '09. It works perfectly
Cool, good to know, i have mine still intact ill just remove it sometime.
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Old 08-02-2010, 04:06 AM   #313
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I know it's been a while, but today's the day I chose to finally get this done. I took everything apart and found that both sides were blocked off with block off plates. The prev owner just left the pump and black y shaped pipe in place to make it seem like it was there...I pulled it off. The person also left the solenoid in place with the silver colored hose to the passenger side. Phew, it's good that it's blocked off...though I came across a plug just hanging around that I plugged back into the top of the solenoid on the driver side (didn't see one on the passenger side) Get in the car and suddenly I have like 6 or so new things I can monitor on my accessport...wth? I'm working on accesstuner race tonight to see about getting the codes deleted
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:11 PM   #314
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I have been trying to figure out the Secondary Air Pump/Valve nuisance on my 06 WRX for a couple months now. There was water in both valves. I have replaced the valve under the intake manifold. It was so corroded, I thought for sure that is was the source of my headache. Nope, or not entirely. I tested the pump and confirmed that is was functional. It works fine when directly wired to the battery. The relay is functional and the fuses are fine.

By process of elimination I believe the problem to be the other valve (the easier of the two to get at) or the signal power source (I assume to be from the ECU).

What triggers the system to operate? Does the pump turn on, which in turn would build pressure in the system, which would trigger a pressure sensor that opens the valves? Do the valves open and the pump turn on at the same time? Or am I completely off base?

Does anyone have a pinout diagram for the valve that is situated in the open space under the TMIC. The valve pictured:
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:26 PM   #315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tturbotom View Post
I have been trying to figure out the Secondary Air Pump/Valve nuisance on my 06 WRX for a couple months now. There was water in both valves. I have replaced the valve under the intake manifold. It was so corroded, I thought for sure that is was the source of my headache. Nope, or not entirely. I tested the pump and confirmed that is was functional. It works fine when directly wired to the battery. The relay is functional and the fuses are fine.

By process of elimination I believe the problem to be the other valve (the easier of the two to get at) or the signal power source (I assume to be from the ECU).

What triggers the system to operate? Does the pump turn on, which in turn would build pressure in the system, which would trigger a pressure sensor that opens the valves? Do the valves open and the pump turn on at the same time? Or am I completely off base?

Does anyone have a pinout diagram for the valve that is situated in the open space under the TMIC. The valve pictured:
OK..... STOP what you are doing.

Step one: put block off plates on engine heads (NOT on the valves) and remove ALL secondary air injection components
Step two: buy an AP and remove the CEL's with Access Tuner Race (or your preferred tuning method)
Step three: ??????
Step four: profit and get rid of the CEL

The long and short of it is that the secondary air injection system is a USDM specific component (read - sucky) and is mostly pointless.
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:46 PM   #316
tturbotom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast06wrxtr View Post
OK..... STOP what you are doing.

Step one: put block off plates on engine heads (NOT on the valves) and remove ALL secondary air injection components
Step two: buy an AP and remove the CEL's with Access Tuner Race (or your preferred tuning method)
Step three: ??????
Step four: profit and get rid of the CEL

The long and short of it is that the secondary air injection system is a USDM specific component (read - sucky) and is mostly pointless.
I should have noted that this picture was only for illustration purposes to show the electical connector. This valve in the picture is not mine. I do not have the block off plates.

That said, I would like to understand the issue and possibly fix it before I go and delete the CEL for good not knowing the root cause of the problem. This may not be the popular choice, but it is that route I would like to go first.
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Old 09-02-2010, 04:33 AM   #317
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Not sure exactly what triggers the solenoids and pump to operate, but people have said it only turns on during start up to get the cats up to temp by adding extra air to the exhaust flow to heat them up faster. After a set amount of time, or maybe once the car is up to running temp, i THINK they are closed and there is no more air introduced to the system.

If your valves are causing issues, i would remove them, i have removed mine and still pass emissions testing, since you have to drive to a test site, the cat is already up to temp. Just my thoughts, could be wrong.
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Old 09-02-2010, 05:32 AM   #318
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That picture is mine.


The block of plate in picture is a prototype from KStech. It is/was something they were trailing to seal of the valve from the weather in the case of the valve needing to be retained for the pressure sensor located in them (US MY07 WRX) - it was thought at some point that the ECU could not read some pressure without it. I am uncertain as to if this has been resolved or not.
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Old 09-02-2010, 05:35 AM   #319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baay View Post
Not sure exactly what triggers the solenoids and pump to operate, but people have said it only turns on during start up to get the cats up to temp by adding extra air to the exhaust flow to heat them up faster. After a set amount of time, or maybe once the car is up to running temp, i THINK they are closed and there is no more air introduced to the system.
Correct, the entire system only operates for ~30s after start (well at least here in temperate Australia, maybe longer in US winters; either way, not long) to lean (i assume) the mixutre post-cylinder to heat the cat(s) up quicker.

AFAIK it is switched by the ECU, though I have not seen tables in romraider or ecuflash for them - maybe it's something that hasn't been "decoded" yet.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:23 AM   #320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tturbotom View Post
I should have noted that this picture was only for illustration purposes to show the electical connector. This valve in the picture is not mine. I do not have the block off plates.
Whew. Considering the port that is blocked off is the low point of the valve, I'm not sure it would help to seal that port. In fact, it might make things worse since the valve wouldn't be able to drain if moisture were able to enter and pass through the system via the valve inlet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Baay View Post
Not sure exactly what triggers the solenoids and pump to operate, but people have said it only turns on during start up to get the cats up to temp by adding extra air to the exhaust flow to heat them up faster. After a set amount of time, or maybe once the car is up to running temp, i THINK they are closed and there is no more air introduced to the system.

I believe the science is to add more oxygen to the exhaust. This in turn allows the converters to cut down on typically high start-up emissions.
I believe I remember seeing an electrical schematic somewhere in this thread, but a quick look didn't find it. If memory serves me right, there's multiple fuses and relays, so make sure you check them all. The system turns on the pumps and opens the solenoid valves at the same time. The pressure sensor is a check that it is functioning correctly. Some models also use the pressure sensor during normal driving for atmospheric pressure readings as well.

I believe there are also check valves integrated inside of the solenoid valves. I'm not sure if those typically go bad, but it's a potential.

Another issue is that once water gets into that system, the components slowly fail over time as corrosion sets in. My pump was fine for about a year after my first issues, but eventually failed as well.

Last edited by fast06wrxtr; 09-02-2010 at 11:50 PM.
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:26 AM   #321
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Just to note, the best method i think to removal is just to remove the top from the solenoid, it actually pretty easy, time consuming, but easy enough just be careful not to break off the connector.

This way all you are left with that you really need, is the atmospheric pressure sensor.

Less problems and less mechanical stuff to worry about.

Only thing, is that its a one time only option, no going back once its done.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:32 PM   #322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast06wrxtr View Post
I believe I remember seeing an electrical schematic somewhere in this thread, but a quick look didn't find it.
I have seen the schematic as well, but couldn't make heads of tail of it. If was for the entire system and I was unable to determine the wire configuration of the valve. I'll find it later and post if up for feedback.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fast06wrxtr View Post
If memory serves me right, there's multiple fuses and relays, so make sure you check them all.
I know of two relays and two fuses. Both at the small corner of the fuse panel. Do you know of any others?

Quote:
Originally Posted by fast06wrxtr View Post
The system turns on the pumps and opens the solenoid valves at the same time.
Good to know. Unfortunate for me the pump is not turning one. At least I know that it works though.

Thanks
Tom
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:21 PM   #323
tturbotom
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After reading through the thread for the umpteenth time I found and understand the pinout info that I was looking for. Now I have to conduct the testing.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&postcount=268
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:39 PM   #324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsnm View Post
I have an 06,I removed the entire system on mine.
However,the drivers side bigger valve,I cut out the top sensor where the plug goes into.
Plugged that back into the harness,plugged the 2 openings on the heads,and removed everything.
Respectfully, you have a 2006 which means you don't have to retain any of the connectors/plugs from either secondary valve. Just tie-back each loose harness connector (primary and two secondaries) with wire-ties.

You do have to have a map and have it updated (whether by a tuner or you do it yourself) to have the primary and secondary electrical ports effectively shut-off.

If you have a 2007 and newer, then yes, you must retain the connector/plug from the top of the secondary valve because it has an integrated atmospheric sensor in it.
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:55 PM   #325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tturbotom View Post
I know of two relays and two fuses. Both at the small corner of the fuse panel. Do you know of any others?
I didn't look, but that sounds right.

Do you best at a DIY fix, but think long and hard about investing any more money into it. If it's a resale issue, consider that failures are very common and will possible break again before putting it up for sale. My best advise is to store the good components and put them back on if / when that time comes.

I can appreciate the desire to fix it, as that was my initial objective. Good luck!
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