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Old 04-03-2011, 01:53 AM   #401
EvileyeZ88
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Correct, should be something like a 6 pin connector.
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:07 AM   #402
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Awesome thanks.

Turns on fine and runs, but for reason I'm getting a P0328 code. Knock sensor 1 circuit high input. My guess is that the knock sensor is bad, since the only thing I did that day is remove the air pump. I don't have the Accessport ATR program yet, so I can't clear it.

I'm assuming I need to get a new one?
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Old 04-03-2011, 03:38 PM   #403
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Default Air suction valve for 2007 WRX

I am interested in buying the air suction valve for a 2007 WRX. I only need Bank 1 or (RH), which is the valve that is NOT under the intake manifold. PM me if you have one and are willing to part with it. Thanks.
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Old 04-08-2011, 11:51 PM   #404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwmoss_68 View Post
Pulling a P2444 on the FXT, looks like I have some reading to do.

dm
Figure anything out about your issue? My wifes 08 FXT is getting P2444 and P1410. First thing I am going to try is the pump relay ($12) and the bank 1 valve relay ($9).
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Old 04-09-2011, 12:03 AM   #405
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Originally Posted by WRX_02_227 View Post
Figure anything out about your issue? My wifes 08 FXT is getting P2444 and P1410. First thing I am going to try is the pump relay ($12) and the bank 1 valve relay ($9).
you can probably just have your wife start the car (from 'cold') with your hand on the pump and maybe a finger on the relay. The pump will run for 20-40 seconds and probably the relay will click. (might even swap the relay with the other valve's relay)
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Old 04-09-2011, 01:50 AM   #406
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you can probably just have your wife start the car (from 'cold') with your hand on the pump and maybe a finger on the relay. The pump will run for 20-40 seconds and probably the relay will click. (might even swap the relay with the other valve's relay)
Yeah I could certainly try that, thanks for the tip!.

Any idea what brand the air pump relay should be? The one installed now is a "Tyco" branded one which struck me as odd since every relay I have seen on my WRX and her Forester is made by Denso.
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Old 04-09-2011, 02:43 AM   #407
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Originally Posted by WRX_02_227 View Post
Yeah I could certainly try that, thanks for the tip!.

Any idea what brand the air pump relay should be? The one installed now is a "Tyco" branded one which struck me as odd since every relay I have seen on my WRX and her Forester is made by Denso.
Tyco is a pretty huge company, Swiss IIRC, though the electronics division was spun-off. denso is japanese. For this purpose, it's probably not a big deal.

I did not try to 'feel' any relays on my car. But the pump was obviously spinning for several seconds. I didn't have a helper, just opened the hood, glanced at where I wanted to place my hand, started the car and quickly put my hand on the pump - it ran for at least 15-20 seconds and I could feel when it stopped.

ymmv
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:08 PM   #408
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Originally Posted by 1 Lucky Texan View Post
Tyco is a pretty huge company, Swiss IIRC, though the electronics division was spun-off. denso is japanese. For this purpose, it's probably not a big deal.

I did not try to 'feel' any relays on my car. But the pump was obviously spinning for several seconds. I didn't have a helper, just opened the hood, glanced at where I wanted to place my hand, started the car and quickly put my hand on the pump - it ran for at least 15-20 seconds and I could feel when it stopped.

ymmv
So I tried what you suggested this morning. First I cleared the code which was a different one yet again (P2443). Then I had her start the car while I was holding the relay and pump. I didn't feel the relay do anything upon startup but the pump turned on for about 30 seconds and shut off. When the pump shut off I also felt the relay do something. Then when I had her shut the car off, after the engine stopped I could hear something moving so I assume it was a valve or both valves moving. Finally I unhooked the air hose from the pump, sprayed a bunch of WD40 down into it towards the valves, reconnected the hose and started the car. I noticed a lot of condensation coming from the exhaust so I took it for a quick beat the hell out of it session to blow any water out that might be in there.

So far it started with P1410, then it was P2441, then P2444 along with P1410, and this morning P2443. Freakin thing is nuts!!
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:51 PM   #409
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Originally Posted by WRX_02_227 View Post
So I tried what you suggested this morning. First I cleared the code which was a different one yet again (P2443). Then I had her start the car while I was holding the relay and pump. I didn't feel the relay do anything upon startup but the pump turned on for about 30 seconds and shut off. When the pump shut off I also felt the relay do something. Then when I had her shut the car off, after the engine stopped I could hear something moving so I assume it was a valve or both valves moving. Finally I unhooked the air hose from the pump, sprayed a bunch of WD40 down into it towards the valves, reconnected the hose and started the car. I noticed a lot of condensation coming from the exhaust so I took it for a quick beat the hell out of it session to blow any water out that might be in there.

So far it started with P1410, then it was P2441, then P2444 along with P1410, and this morning P2443. Freakin thing is nuts!!
It's starting to hang up on corrosion is my guess. You MAY be able to delay it for a while (though WD-40 might not be great for your cat conv./O2 sensor) but, it's doomed. There are 2-3 threads on this issue, it's real and there's no going back.

The way forward from here is; live with it if the valves are stuck closed and you don't have emissions inspection where you live, or pull the fuses and kill the codes, or pull the parts, install block plates and kill the codes.
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Old 04-09-2011, 09:58 PM   #410
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So right now it is stuck closed (P2441)... should I pull the fuse to keep it that way until I can figure out what else to do?? If so which fuse is it?

Thanks a TON for all of the help so far. I certainly am glad my 02 WRX doesn't have this junk on it.
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:55 AM   #411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX_02_227 View Post
So right now it is stuck closed (P2441)... should I pull the fuse to keep it that way until I can figure out what else to do?? If so which fuse is it?

Thanks a TON for all of the help so far. I certainly am glad my 02 WRX doesn't have this junk on it.

I can't be absolutely certain that an 08 Forry is like my 06 WRX.

My fuses were all (I think there were 2) labeled 'aircut'. I pulled the big relay too.

maybe someone else will respond with experience for an 08.
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:48 AM   #412
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Yeah there is no way in hell I can install the passenger side blockoff plate myself. Driver side is cake but I am not prepared to remove the downpipe and uppipe.
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:39 AM   #413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX_02_227
Yeah there is no way in hell I can install the passenger side blockoff plate myself. Driver side is cake but I am not prepared to remove the downpipe and uppipe.
I installed it with only removing the heat shield. I was hard but I got it done.
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Old 04-22-2011, 01:39 PM   #414
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I installed it with only removing the heat shield. I was hard but I got it done.
Which heatshield?
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Old 04-22-2011, 02:40 PM   #415
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Right now I have the fuses (60A, 10A) pulled as well as the big relay for the air pump. Then I reflashed the ECU with the AP after removing the codes. The code before I did this stuff said it was stuck closed so hopefully I will be okay until I can get the block off plates put on.
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Old 04-22-2011, 02:47 PM   #416
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Which heatshield?
Turbo heat shield; It's the only one in the way.
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Old 04-22-2011, 02:48 PM   #417
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On my car anyways.
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:02 PM   #418
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Turbo heat shield; It's the only one in the way.
Care to describe your method? Tools used? Any funky wrenches?
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:52 PM   #419
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I took mine of off and I live in the high sierras. No problems at all. The car would just take an extra second or two when cranking cold.
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:24 PM   #420
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WOW, what an effin long thread! So I don't want to start a new horse beater. But I want to add to this idea. Doesn't it strike us as extremely unsafe to have the chance of a stuck open valve? My car is sitting in the garage with melted down air pump and wiring harnesses near it. I had to pull the battery term to get the pump to shut down as the heat fused it. Could my car had caught on fire if I was less attentive? Shouldn't this be a complete recall due to safety?

I scored a box of valves and pumps off ebay for 40 bucks to play with. Replaced the pump and when the ignition is on I have a humming noise coming from the pass side (valve I have to assume), so I am going to rip em out. No way I am going to try and fix em. But I should be able to leave it as is. Subaru needs to learn something from Toyota.

EDIT HA!! Post 420 for the smoking Subaru

Last edited by Scowboy; 06-08-2011 at 10:26 PM. Reason: Quip added.
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:29 PM   #421
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I just realized two weeks ago the shop I've been going to for 3 years removed this part without my knowledge. Too bad that was AFTER blowing two engines with them.

After I found out, I completely enjoyed paying $300 for a new sensor this past week, since the shop threw mine in the trash.

As soon as I put it on my car smoothed out and the stumbling went away. Appearantly they didn't know you're supposed to leave it connected to the car.
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:13 PM   #422
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EDIT HA!! Post 420 for the smoking Subaru

saw that coming
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:24 PM   #423
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So for all you 06 rex owners, did you need to reinstall the pressure switch from the passenger valve? or is it just for the sap? Just spent 30 mins pulling the valve apart incase. PS no wonder they stop working rust strength>magnet force.
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:58 AM   #424
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Bumping an old thread. Is there a solid fix for any cel's related to this?
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Old 07-17-2011, 12:35 PM   #425
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Accessport Race tuner allows you to turn off the CEL's
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