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Old 06-18-2012, 10:55 PM   #601
AWSnare
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Yep. Sawsallll
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:02 PM   #602
EvasionOfTruth
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Same as above sawzall on drivers side, used a body air saw on the passenger side fitted with a full length hacksaw blade. Needed more reach under the intake manifold.


Last edited by EvasionOfTruth; 06-19-2012 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 07-12-2012, 05:07 PM   #603
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cant you just pull the valves out, blast the rust an water away, put it back in an be ok?
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Old 07-12-2012, 05:33 PM   #604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Babelyy View Post
cant you just pull the valves out, blast the rust an water away, put it back in an be ok?
And what good do you think that'll do?
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Old 07-12-2012, 05:35 PM   #605
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Possibly.

The top solenoid part of the valves is kinda sealed and hard to work on, and even if you got all the rust out, the condensation and acids would have the whole system clogged again real quick.
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:27 PM   #606
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I am planning on removing my air pump and I'm not sure how or if the cel codes can be deleted and still pass emissions inspection.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:19 PM   #607
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Remove them via access port race tuner, or have your tuner shut them off.

I have passed VA emissions and safety inspection 2 times with no issues.

~Evil
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:46 PM   #608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvileyeZ88
Remove them via access port race tuner, or have your tuner shut them off.

I have passed VA emissions and safety inspection 2 times with no issues.

~Evil
This.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:00 PM   #609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvileyeZ88 View Post
Remove them via access port race tuner, or have your tuner shut them off.

I have passed VA emissions and safety inspection 2 times with no issues.

~Evil
So it can be removed with a Cobb Access Port?

Here is my situation, my car threw out a couple of codes which is "secondary air valve stuck open bank 2". Ive been reading this thread for the past hour or so and can't figure out whats the best way to deal with the situation. What is the best and cheapest way to fix the problem? I dont have a Cobb AP but I can get one for cheap if needed. Just trying to find the cheapest way to do this because the dealer wants to charge me 330 a piece for the valves and they are not sure that will fix the problem because they also think its an electrical issue which is another 90/hr.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:44 PM   #610
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Get rid of the system and be done with it.

Buy block off plates and gaskets, remove the system and install plates and gaskets.

You can either have someone open source tune with a tactrix cable to remove the codes.

Or go with the Access port and have someone tune them out.

Either way you'll never have to worry about that system failing again.

~Evil
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:51 PM   #611
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The dealer sells the block off plates for $3.70 a piece. That's cheap. Only thing is waiting for them. I just ordered 2 and they said there was only 1 in the country. So its getting shipped all the way here from Portland, and they have to order another one from over seas. But if you mind the wait, its cheap, and you can just take it to a tuner to erase the codes.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:03 PM   #612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvileyeZ88 View Post
Get rid of the system and be done with it.

Buy block off plates and gaskets, remove the system and install plates and gaskets.

You can either have someone open source tune with a tactrix cable to remove the codes.

Or go with the Access port and have someone tune them out.

Either way you'll never have to worry about that system failing again.

~Evil
Ok. Is it cheaper to get a Cobb AP or have a tuner delete the codes? What other benefits do I have for getting the Cobb?
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:05 PM   #613
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You can also get them from here immediately.

http://www.kstech.biz/servlet/the-Ai...ete/Categories

The tactrix is going to be cheaper but all it is, is a cable to connect a car to a computer.

The access port is a tool you can use to monitor many aspects of your engine, along with data logging, on the fly map changing, and a plethora of other dohickeys that make you feel good. It was the obvious choice for me when I had to make a decision.

~Evil
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:27 PM   #614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millcityrex View Post
So it can be removed with a Cobb Access Port?

Here is my situation, my car threw out a couple of codes which is "secondary air valve stuck open bank 2". Ive been reading this thread for the past hour or so and can't figure out whats the best way to deal with the situation. What is the best and cheapest way to fix the problem? I dont have a Cobb AP but I can get one for cheap if needed. Just trying to find the cheapest way to do this because the dealer wants to charge me 330 a piece for the valves and they are not sure that will fix the problem because they also think its an electrical issue which is another 90/hr.
In my case, I was getting the "stuck open" code only intermittently.
I got it one day and the next day it was gone. I figured one of the 2 valves was starting to act up and it had trouble opening/closing but it wasn't completely stuck yet.
So, I waited until the next morning to see whether or not the code would pop back up. I started the car and I listened for the typical noise of the air pump to confirm that the whole air injection system was actually operating.
I waited a minute or two until the air pump noise stopped and I kept the car idling for an additional one or two minutes. I looked at the instrument panel and there was no CEL; so I shut the engine off, popped the hood and removed the air valves fuse and pulled the air pump relay out (if you look at the label/diagram at the back of the under-hood fuse box cover you'll figure it out).
The idea is to make sure that both valves are indeed closed and that they do remain closed (and they should since the air valve fuse is no longer connected).
Again, this only works if you're sure that both valves are closed.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:42 PM   #615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millcityrex

So it can be removed with a Cobb Access Port?

Here is my situation, my car threw out a couple of codes which is "secondary air valve stuck open bank 2". Ive been reading this thread for the past hour or so and can't figure out whats the best way to deal with the situation. What is the best and cheapest way to fix the problem? I dont have a Cobb AP but I can get one for cheap if needed. Just trying to find the cheapest way to do this because the dealer wants to charge me 330 a piece for the valves and they are not sure that will fix the problem because they also think its an electrical issue which is another 90/hr.
Since you don't have the access-port, the cheaper way to solve this problem may be to replace the parts with used ones. I have everything out of my car still in tact except the driver side solenoid, and the tube that goes to the passenger one. Lmk I get it to you cheap. Try to find out what you need
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:58 PM   #616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neg_matnik View Post
In my case, I was getting the "stuck open" code only intermittently.
I got it one day and the next day it was gone. I figured one of the 2 valves was starting to act up and it had trouble opening/closing but it wasn't completely stuck yet.
So, I waited until the next morning to see whether or not the code would pop back up. I started the car and I listened for the typical noise of the air pump to confirm that the whole air injection system was actually operating.
I waited a minute or two until the air pump noise stopped and I kept the car idling for an additional one or two minutes. I looked at the instrument panel and there was no CEL; so I shut the engine off, popped the hood and removed the air valves fuse and pulled the air pump relay out (if you look at the label/diagram at the back of the under-hood fuse box cover you'll figure it out).
The idea is to make sure that both valves are indeed closed and that they do remain closed (and they should since the air valve fuse is no longer connected).
Again, this only works if you're sure that both valves are closed.
Excuse my ignorance, but what will this tell me? also, i tried checking the fuse for the SAI but didnt see anything labeled such so I checked all the 10a fuse bcuz thats what someone in another post said.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:11 PM   #617
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He's saying you could leave everything in place and just pull the fuses, if you are sure the valves are closed when you do it.

You'd still have the CEL, but there should be no performance hit or damage.

The fuses and relay are in their own box, under the airpump, near the battery.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:14 PM   #618
millcityrex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthTL View Post
He's saying you could leave everything in place and just pull the fuses, if you are sure the valves are closed when you do it.

You'd still have the CEL, but there should be no performance hit or damage.

The fuses and relay are in their own box, under the airpump, near the battery.
Oic...But will it pass the emissions test when I go for inspection?
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:45 PM   #619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millcityrex

Oic...But will it pass the emissions test when I go for inspection?
Not with the CEL...
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:41 AM   #620
millcityrex
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If I do the same thing as SteathTL and remove the CEL via accessport, will it pass now?
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:14 AM   #621
EvileyeZ88
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Yes. No CEL, no problem.
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Old 09-25-2012, 01:43 PM   #622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neg_matnik View Post
In my case, I was getting the "stuck open" code only intermittently.
I got it one day and the next day it was gone. I figured one of the 2 valves was starting to act up and it had trouble opening/closing but it wasn't completely stuck yet.
So, I waited until the next morning to see whether or not the code would pop back up. I started the car and I listened for the typical noise of the air pump to confirm that the whole air injection system was actually operating.
I waited a minute or two until the air pump noise stopped and I kept the car idling for an additional one or two minutes. I looked at the instrument panel and there was no CEL; so I shut the engine off, popped the hood and removed the air valves fuse and pulled the air pump relay out (if you look at the label/diagram at the back of the under-hood fuse box cover you'll figure it out).
The idea is to make sure that both valves are indeed closed and that they do remain closed (and they should since the air valve fuse is no longer connected).
Again, this only works if you're sure that both valves are closed.

I tried this just to see if the air pump was turning on but I didnt hear anything when the car started. So, now I'm thinking that the relay is no good and I asked a buddy of mine if he knows how to check the relay. He checked it and said that there should be a clicking noise when the relay is removed and replaced while the car is in the on position. We didnt hear any clicks at the relay. Is that true about the relay clicking?
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:23 PM   #623
Jaker32186
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Default Pass Emissions with CEL

To pass emissions with the CEL on and no way to delete it....

First pick a warm day, the colder the faster the car will cool down. Thats not what we want.

Drive the car so its warmed up.

Pull the battery to reset your ecu

CEL should be gone

Drive atleast 30+ miles on your way to emissions

Stop atleast 3 times, turning the car fully off, remove keys, then back in and back on. The faster the better.

We are driving alot, and shutting the car down to make the ECU look like that it has been running for awhile. If you quickly reset and drive right to emissions, they will tell you your ECU was reset and hasn't been driven enough... This is a good option to get an extension on the test so you can make a proper fix before you get fined.

Then get to emissions. Keep car running.

Pull into emissions and have then plug into your OBD II port with car off

Should pass... did for me.

The Cel only comes on when the car is cold. Like the other posts say the seconcdary air pump only warms the cat up on cold start then off. So if the car is warm it won't throw the CEL. This is also the reason that you reset and the CEL "goes away" for a couple days. It takes a few goes before the car recognizes the air pump is stuck. If its stuck closed you can drive all day like no issue. I've had the CEL on for close to a year... both banks stuck closed. Saving for V2 AP so I can trade V1 in and clear CELs. Eventually Id like to remove the system, but no rush. I hear its a pain in the ass... (read every thread above to confirm) lol

It worked for me, good luck. I used a V1 AP to reset the ECU, but pulling the battery should be the same.
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:18 PM   #624
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The 'reset and drive a bit' procedure wouldn't work for him - he has a 'stuck open' code.

The ECU would flag it as soon as you restart.

However, open/closed/removed codes can ALL be removed without a trace with a Cobb and their 'race tuner' software.
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:10 PM   #625
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I agree with evil I had an 06 with the same issue.
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