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Old 09-26-2012, 07:34 PM   #626
Matt_H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaker32186 View Post
To pass emissions with the CEL on and no way to delete it....

First pick a warm day, the colder the faster the car will cool down. Thats not what we want.

Drive the car so its warmed up.

Pull the battery to reset your ecu

CEL should be gone

Drive atleast 30+ miles on your way to emissions

Stop atleast 3 times, turning the car fully off, remove keys, then back in and back on. The faster the better.

We are driving alot, and shutting the car down to make the ECU look like that it has been running for awhile. If you quickly reset and drive right to emissions, they will tell you your ECU was reset and hasn't been driven enough... This is a good option to get an extension on the test so you can make a proper fix before you get fined.

Then get to emissions. Keep car running.

Pull into emissions and have then plug into your OBD II port with car off

Should pass... did for me.

The Cel only comes on when the car is cold. Like the other posts say the seconcdary air pump only warms the cat up on cold start then off. So if the car is warm it won't throw the CEL. This is also the reason that you reset and the CEL "goes away" for a couple days. It takes a few goes before the car recognizes the air pump is stuck. If its stuck closed you can drive all day like no issue. I've had the CEL on for close to a year... both banks stuck closed. Saving for V2 AP so I can trade V1 in and clear CELs. Eventually Id like to remove the system, but no rush. I hear its a pain in the ass... (read every thread above to confirm) lol

It worked for me, good luck. I used a V1 AP to reset the ECU, but pulling the battery should be the same.
Like I said in your thread months ago (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...php?p=37463231) it's much easier to just clear/turn off the code.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:47 PM   #627
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Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
David buschur took his off. The air pump will run for ~90 seconds max or until the coolant temp hits 150. Basically, it adds oxygen to allow fuel unburned in the cyclinders to ignite later and heat up the cats faster.
Tangent question... how does injecting air into the exhaust stream ignite the unburnt fuel? Isn't the air from the air pump cooler than just burned cylinder air? (there's no ignition)
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:16 PM   #628
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Good question, the cat is getting unburned hydrocarbons and some oxygen (not much in a well tuned engine) but it's stone cold, so it all passes thru without reacting, giving a relatively large 'spike' of pollution during a cold start, until it gets up to its running temp.

To minimize this spike, the ECU adds extra fuel, well beyond a rich mix and also injects outside air thru the secondary system (BMW has electric coils in their cats in some models for better pre-heat.)

Using a cat means the car can never run lean, so it always uses more gas than a better designed 'lean burn' system. This system adds more gasoline to reduce 'pollution'!
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:43 PM   #629
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Originally Posted by StealthTL View Post
Good question, the cat is getting unburned hydrocarbons and some oxygen (not much in a well tuned engine) but it's stone cold, so it all passes thru without reacting, giving a relatively large 'spike' of pollution during a cold start, until it gets up to its running temp.

To minimize this spike, the ECU adds extra fuel, well beyond a rich mix and also injects outside air thru the secondary system (BMW has electric coils in their cats in some models for better pre-heat.)

Using a cat means the car can never run lean, so it always uses more gas than a better designed 'lean burn' system. This system adds more gasoline to reduce 'pollution'!
thanks for the response but I don't think this answers my question.
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:05 PM   #630
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Sorry, assumed you knew how the catalyst works - it only catalyses CO to CO2 above 450*F, but will self-heat when fuel and oxygen are present, so instead of waiting until exhaust gas heats the media to temperature, they add some gas+air to the reaction and 'light it off' much quicker.

Then they keep the mix over-rich to keep the reaction going.

http://community.discovery.com/eve/f...8/m/4911967329
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Old 09-28-2012, 01:37 PM   #631
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Originally Posted by StealthTL View Post
Sorry, assumed you knew how the catalyst works - it only catalyses CO to CO2 above 450*F, but will self-heat when fuel and oxygen are present, so instead of waiting until exhaust gas heats the media to temperature, they add some gas+air to the reaction and 'light it off' much quicker.

Then they keep the mix over-rich to keep the reaction going.

http://community.discovery.com/eve/f...8/m/4911967329
Ah ok. Yeah I had known that the catalyst only works when at hot enough temperature... but I guess that applies to the CO->CO2 conversion. So you're saying, that at ambient temperatures, the presence of gasoline hydrocarbons mixed with O2 the catalyst causes the two to spontaneous react/burn?

I only have two quarters of Chem in my background.
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:09 PM   #632
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kasldk
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:58 PM   #633
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The last time i checked the codes on my car, the valves were stuck open. Now, it is stuck closed so I pulled the fuses for it because thats what most people said to do in this case. Other people in the thread said to make sure it is closed to do this but how can I really tell if its closed or open besides on what the code is saying.

Also, do i need racetuner to remove the codes permanently? I already bought a Cobb Ap. I already got the block off plates and planning on doing it this weekend but if I can avoid it by removing the fuse id rather do that until it gets worst if it does.
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:32 PM   #634
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Originally Posted by millcityrex View Post
The last time i checked the codes on my car, the valves were stuck open. Now, it is stuck closed so I pulled the fuses for it because thats what most people said to do in this case. Other people in the thread said to make sure it is closed to do this but how can I really tell if its closed or open besides on what the code is saying.

Also, do i need racetuner to remove the codes permanently? I already bought a Cobb Ap. I already got the block off plates and planning on doing it this weekend but if I can avoid it by removing the fuse id rather do that until it gets worst if it does.
Update: after removing the 10a fuse and clearing the code last nite it came back again today with the same code p2443(stuck closed). What should i do now?
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:43 PM   #635
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Get Racetuner
Remove system
Install block off plates
Disable the codes with Racetuner
Be done with it forever
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:51 PM   #636
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Originally Posted by Rene2.5RS
Get Racetuner
Remove system
Install block off plates
Disable the codes with Racetuner
Be done with it forever
For eh ver. FFFOOORRRR- EEEHHHHHH- VVVEEERRRR
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:29 PM   #637
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I'll add this. I have an 07 and when my tuner loaded his first base map it was from an 06 that was similarly modded, but my car was throwing codes as if the the ambient air sensor was not plugged in... blah blah blah... my car could not be tuned because boost would be inconsistant depending on the weather.

He quickly realized the OBD codes were different. Maybe not the numbers persay but the chart in the computer or something about how an 07 processes codes. Either way if you have an 07 make sure you keep your 07 OBD settings in the computer.

IMO a tuner should be doing this anyways, but if you flip your shizz because you slaved away fixing your car and then drive a hour away only to think you'll have to limp your car back home again check this first.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:36 AM   #638
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My car is 100% stock n I got the same P2443 code, but i ignore it (place hand on pump at start up-it vibrates-it works-does it's job-need not worry). I've reset the ecu 2-3 times already when doing headlight bulb replacement and spark plug replacement, the code disappears temporarily, throttle response becomes really soft/weak making you push more gas to prevent stalling(this improves overtime due to ECU learning). after a trip or two, the CEL comes back on. this will happen no matter how many times u reset your ecu (resetting too many times is not advisable). picking up a CObb AP this week. hopefully can just delete the code permanently.

Last edited by coalslaw; 10-14-2012 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:42 PM   #639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rene2.5RS View Post
Get Racetuner
Remove system
Install block off plates
Disable the codes with Racetuner
Be done with it forever
But millcityrex said he didn't want to spend too much money into it .
What's the cost of a Cobb AP + Racetuner?
I'd pick up a used Tactrix/BFM cable and I'd turn the codes off with Romraider for a more cost effective solution to this issue.
Personally, I didn't want to spend too much time into it which is why I simply pulled the fuse and the air pump relay. I have been using a tune from XPT/Braden, the relevant ECU codes *may* have been *already deleted* by the author of the map (Braden).
In any case, it's getting colder over here at night, and I don't get any codes in the morning (again, I pulled both the fuse and the air pump relay).
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:48 PM   #640
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Originally Posted by millcityrex View Post
Update: after removing the 10a fuse and clearing the code last nite it came back again today with the same code p2443(stuck closed). What should i do now?
You'll need to pull out the air pump relay as well. Since it appears you already have a Cobb AP then maybe you should buy the Racetuner software as well and delete the codes related to the valves.

EDIT: it looks like AccessTUNER Race (that's the name of the software) is FREE. Very cool.
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Old 10-11-2012, 04:10 PM   #641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neg_matnik View Post
You'll need to pull out the air pump relay as well. Since it appears you already have a Cobb AP then maybe you should buy the Racetuner software as well and delete the codes related to the valves.

EDIT: it looks like AccessTUNER Race (that's the name of the software) is FREE. Very cool.
Ok i will pull the relay tonite. Already downloaded the racetuner last nite and turned off the codes that were related to the air pump just need to reflash the ecu. My question about the valve stuck closed still never got answered. I wanted to know if the code saying stuck closed really means it closed cuz people were saying i have to make sure the valves are closed in order to pull the fuses.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:48 PM   #642
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If it says a fault code of 'stuck closed' they are prolly shut for good, no worries.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:06 PM   #643
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If it says a fault code of 'stuck closed' they are prolly shut for good, no worries.
Ok cool. Thanks guys for all the help.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:26 PM   #644
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Just to be sure...how many relays and/or fuses do i need to pull out & what are they labeled? I pulled out the the relay thats labeled air pump, another one thats labeled air pump relay and the 10a fuse labeled air cut. Is there anything else? For instances, the one labeled a/c relay?
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:41 PM   #645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millcityrex
Just to be sure...how many relays and/or fuses do i need to pull out & what are they labeled? I pulled out the the relay thats labeled air pump, another one thats labeled air pump relay and the 10a fuse labeled air cut. Is there anything else? For instances, the one labeled a/c relay?
I only pulled one relay. It should be close to the 10a fuse you pulled.
I'd snap a pic but I'm away from home and I didn't take my car.
Maybe what you removed is the air pump fuse (I'm not sure there's actually one).

EDIT: for sure you don't want/need to pull anything else (the a/c relay is obviously for the A/C and has nothing to do with the air pump...).

Last edited by neg_matnik; 10-14-2012 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:05 AM   #646
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update: it's been almost a month since i reset my ECU. it's strange my CEL P2443 never came back on. the other resets i had didn't make it go away.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:34 PM   #647
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the pump is only there to push air in the exhaust to warm up the cat so it reduces emissions more so. taking it off does nothing different that the older wrx's didn't do.
so again it does nothing. it only comes on when your car is cold and you start it. then it turns off and that's it. it's more pricey keeping it on cause those valves go bad and you have to replace them and they are $350 each plus the labor. a smog tech might look for them while smogging the car, or might not. but as long as you don't have a cel on for them then it should be ok.
BTW if you want to sell the longer pipe that goes from the valve to the right (passenger) head, i'll buy it off of ya. PM me.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:58 PM   #648
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My 07 is throwing codes P2432, P2431, P2444, and P1410. I've read through this entire thread and am evaluating my options. Thanks to all of you who have blazed this path for those of us embarking.

My immediate concern is about those last two codes "stuck on/open". Am I okay to drive the vehicle while I continue troubleshooting? If not, why not? What is the risk?
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:03 AM   #649
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I didn't look up the codes. But if they are related to your air pump, you are fine. As mentioned 200000x's the air pump is just there for emissions purposes.
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:30 AM   #650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevejones19
I didn't look up the codes. But if they are related to your air pump, you are fine. As mentioned 200000x's the air pump is just there for emissions purposes.

That is incorrect If they are stuck open that's bad, basically there is an open hole in one of your cylinder heads, and it leads back to the air pump.

The air pump activates for the first 30 seconds of all cold startups, it pumps extra air into the passenger and drivers side cylinder heads leaning out the AFR causing the catalytic converters to heat up faster.

Remove the valves and install the block off plates.

Enjoy the new found peace of mind and less cluttered look of your engine bay.

~Evil
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