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Old 03-12-2013, 11:22 PM   #751
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero Signal View Post
Hmm didn't realize they made a driver side one good to know now that I already did it lol that part number I posted tho is the one I used and it fit on the passenger side perfect and I had to drill it for the driver side
you have your passenger and drive sides mixed up.
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:23 PM   #752
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acejam2k View Post
07 STI passenger side OEM block-off plate: 11084AA020

http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/su/...OcIebn4gMPPFdV

You're welcome
ALELUYA ! thanks !
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:20 AM   #753
Skankyfrankie
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Default Relays and fuses

I have read tons here and other forums on this subject but what I am still missing is exactly how many relay and fuses need pulled on a 07 WRX. Or do you need to leave the relays and fuses in place for other reasons? I know how to block it off and I have cobb to kill the CEL codes and I have the list of codes but I just don't see the relays and fuses being discussed to the end point. Leave or keep and all or some? anyone know for sure? So far I pulled the air pump relay, 60 amp air pump fuse and a 10 amp "air cut " fuse until I can do the block off this weekend. Will I need to keep any of these fuses or relays for everything else to function correct like the atmospheric pressure sensor?
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:48 AM   #754
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Sorry duplicated post

Last edited by Skankyfrankie; 04-29-2013 at 02:19 PM. Reason: dup
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:46 AM   #755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skankyfrankie View Post
I have read tons here and other forums on this subject but what I am still missing is exactly how many relay and fuses need pulled on a 07 WRX. Or do you need to leave the relays and fuses in place for other reasons? I know how to block it off and I have cobb to kill the CEL codes and I have the list of codes but I just don't see the relays and fuses being discussed to the end point. Leave or keep and all or some? anyone know for sure? So far I pulled the air pump relay, 60 amp air pump fuse and a 10 amp "air cut " fuse until I can do the block off this weekend. Will I need to keep any of these fuses or relays for everything else to function correct like the atmospheric pressure sensor?
When I relocated my fusebox on my 07 wrx (which I had previously removed the air pump system) I completely removed all the relays and fuses related to the air pump system.

I have had zero issues since doing so.

~Evil
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:10 PM   #756
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Which Subaru yr/model has the atm press sensor as a stand alone unit? I don't want to cut it off from the solenoid. I was going to leave the solenoid in place with the sensor but I am in weight savings mode.

Note: Not sure why pic below says to cut both, in my vehicle 06-08 FXT there is only one atm press sensor, on driver's/right hand side of picture.


Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 04-29-2013 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:18 PM   #757
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Do you recall how many relays there were to remove, it looks like 3 to me but only one seems to be labeled clearly as air pump?
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:18 PM   #758
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You dont need to remove the relays and fuses. Mine are still in there even though nothing of the air pump system remains in the car.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:23 PM   #759
Skankyfrankie
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Default air pump fuses and relays

Ok so far it looks like I can remove without any issues or I can also leave without any issues. Since I plan to just block off, kill the CELs and leave everything there for any future trade in or inspection issues I may as well leave them in. This is daughters car and the 7 lbs of weight saved is nothing compaired to all the junk she hauls around LOL...
Thanks
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:09 PM   #760
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who uses cats in their exhuast anyway?
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:55 PM   #761
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EveleyeZ88, thanks, do you have the atmospheric pressure sensor still mounted and operating? If you still have it on the car did you cut it off the valve head or just leave the driver side valve?
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:58 PM   #762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skankyfrankie View Post
EveleyeZ88, thanks, do you have the atmospheric pressure sensor still mounted and operating? If you still have it on the car did you cut it off the valve head or just leave the driver side valve?
Pressure sensor is still attached. No issues with it.

Hacked it off with a sawzall I'm going for the shaved and tucked engine bay look and air pump system was obnoxious.
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:02 PM   #763
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Hey everyone,

I've spent a couple of times on this forum, trying to figure out what exactly to do with my car. I own a 2006 WRX. It is a US model.
Since around a year I have been getting CEL + flashing (thus inoperative) cruise light (+ P2441 and P2443). These have been resettable by disconnecting and connecting the battery. After about a month they'd come back up.
Since a couple of months, the car started smelling like exhaustgasses (in the cabin). This happened only when standing still, with the car idling. That plus the CEL and CC light started pissing me off.
So I bought the KS Tech block-off plates and went to work with Remnex' tutorial from the IWSTI website (thanks a lot for that) today.


After removing
1) The complete air pump (+the brackets holding it to the car)
2) The Y-hose from the airpump to the solenoid
3) The metal pipe from the solenoid to the head
A few questions arose:

1. After putting everything back together, I, first of all, noticed a sort-of rattling exhaust noise coming from under the intercooler. Also after the warmup. Unable to identify where it comes from exactly. Has anybody else experienced something similar? The car started fine, though.

2. There are a few 'loose ends' under the hood and Remnex' tutorial was unclear as to what to do with those exactly.
First of all there is the sensor (I don't know what it is for) which needs to be "disconnected and tucked" (the one on top of the solenoid, under the intercooler). Should it just remain there, not being connected to anything?
Secondly, there are the two holes that are open and uncovered (after removing the, let's call it, Y-hose. Which, on the bottom of the Y, is connected to the air pump). Do they need to be covered by antything? are they going to get clogged if I don't?
Lastly there is the power cable to the air pump. I disconnected it and stowed it away as well as I could. Is this correct?

3. I noticed a couple of you guys talking about removing a lot more from under the hood. Apparantly there is a second solenoid on the passenger's side + a similar connection to the head? Can I remove that like I removed the one on the driver's side?
Is that an option for me? where can I get a step-by-step explanation as to what I can and how I should remove it?


Sorry for the long post, but if anybody can aid me in any of the above, I would highly appreciate it!


Cheers,
Derek
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:51 PM   #764
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I just did my 07 WRX, two air valves located on the driver side, one to the rear was for drivers side head and I disconnected from the head by removing the metal pipe, then blocking the head with KS plate and blocking the bottom of that valve with the KS plate that was intended for the passenger side head since I did not need it, just to keep crap out and I had the extra plate anyway, just had to drill the holes a little bigger. Put that valve back on and connected the sensor since on the 07 it is the atmospheric pressure sensor.

Removed the front valve but left the metal pipe in place that goes over to the passenger side head and used another KS block off plate on the metal pipe where the valve was unhooked. If you didn't seal that metal pipe going to the passenger side you have an exhaust leak out that hole, maybe what your hearing. The front valve wires were just sealed up and tucked under the intake manifold. On mine I left the rubber Y hose (still connected to rear valve) and the blower for visual inspection. you cannot see mine is blocked off without removing the IC.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:23 PM   #765
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The Remnex tutorial shows a STI which I think have one valve for driver side head and a small tank connected to where your other passenger side WRX valve should have been. If you just removed the Y hose and the front of the Y was connected to an aluminum fitting ,that's the front valve that you have to remove and block off the metal tube connected to the side of it. If that valve is stuck open at all you will leak exhaust out the valve and possibly melt nearby wires, plus maybe the noise your hearing. There is some stuff here and You tube stuff on how to get that valve out. The bottom mounting bolt is a CS, I just used a 1/4 x 12mm socket, 1/4 wobbly, 1/4 extension then 1/4 to 3/8" drive adaptor and 3/8 impact gun and knocked it lose. 1/4 is all that will fit in the location.Then deep socket and rachet to remove pipe from side of valve ,then blocked the pipe at that connection and pitched that valve. Use the KS block off plate they sell as a single for blocking the bottom of the rear valve, it fits here as well.

To clarify I bought the whole KS kit (2 plates and gaskets) and one extra plate/gasket designed for bottom of drivers side valve to keep crap out of it once disconnected.

Used kit plates to block the drivers side head and the bottom of that valvehad to drill holes a little bigger in the plate that was originally for passenger side head but fit good enough to block crap. Used the extra plate to block the pipe from the front valve disconnect.
Hope this helps.

Last edited by Skankyfrankie; 05-15-2013 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 05-15-2013, 12:42 PM   #766
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Can anyone confirm 07 wrx will in fact go into limp mode when you have the air pump codes in? Car sure seems to have lost power even though I have the bad valves blocked off and the 2 fuses pulled? I plan to clear the codes in a few weeks and delete the air pump CELs right after before starting the car so I will see if the power comes back or not. Just wondering if anyone knew for sure?
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Old 05-15-2013, 02:11 PM   #767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skankyfrankie View Post
Can anyone confirm 07 wrx will in fact go into limp mode when you have the air pump codes in? Car sure seems to have lost power even though I have the bad valves blocked off and the 2 fuses pulled? I plan to clear the codes in a few weeks and delete the air pump CELs right after before starting the car so I will see if the power comes back or not. Just wondering if anyone knew for sure?
Any time a cel is present and the cruise light is blinking means you are limp mode. You'll probably notice better gas mileage after you clear the codes and the computer relearns itself.

~Evil
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:17 AM   #768
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this thread needs consolidating and locking. Same questions over and over but at 30+ pages long you can't really blame anyone for not wanting to read through the whole thing. It would be great to have a list of years and what needs to be done for everything to work.
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:30 PM   #769
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Thanks EvileyeZ88, that would explain the power loss, and kh15 I agree this thread is too long, there is a lot of good info in it and as usual some not so good. I have read it through now 3 times and so I felt like my recent questions had not been answered fully. Would be great to have it consolidated and sorted by year and models, however finding the expert to do that may not be so easy. Lots of experts on specific models but the whole mess? And would be great to have a full list of CEL definitions sorted same way, model and year spcific. I see here it says kill 15 CELs but it does not list P1410 which is often the first air pump code to come in. So in my mind the list is at least 16. Is it more? without a good reference list I can't be sure. And lastly Subaru should be ashamed of this air pump mess (a money maker for them), there has to be an easier way to accomplish this startup polution control.

Last edited by Skankyfrankie; 05-16-2013 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:25 PM   #770
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If the valve is stuck closed could I just pull the fuses with the pump and delete the CELs??

I have and '07 WRX and would rather do that then try and fight to the passenger side valve.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:30 PM   #771
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Who or how can you permanently delete the codes that the car will throw if you put in the block off plates? I just bought my 07 wrx and its giving me the same CEL. Seems like alot of people are getting turned away when they tried to use their warranty (8/80K). The dealership I bought it from said they can't touch it since they would classify it as under warranty and I have to it take it to a suburu dealer. I am gonna try but gonna put my money on getting shot down as well.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:50 PM   #772
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Tactrix cable + flash map
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:03 PM   #773
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If you decide to leave the B passenger side valve pull 60 amp blower fuse and the 10 amp valve "Air cut" fuse if you go that route, this should leave both valves closed. I was just getting so many codes, valve stuck open, valve stuck closed, Bank 1 pressure fail, blower malfuction etc that I did not trust it to be closed and they turned out to both be stuck open.

I used the cobb accesport, connected and married to car where it automatically saves your stock map. Then through their Race Tuner software I made a stock map minus the AP codes and while I was at it I made myself an extra Stage 1 minus AP codes. Stage 1 has better throttle response and more power so that is how I left it. Cobb access port new $500, I got a used unmarried one for $380. All the cobb software is free but you have to first request it then download it in order, accessport first then once that is DL you have to request and DL racetuner. There are cheaper ways to do this and I may someday do it that way and sell the Cobb but for now it drives better so 400 was worth it, until the kid rocks my gas bill with her new found power that is. I told he she is just one click away from back to stock so...
There is a good list of codes to disable here in this post, however it is missing P1410. Oh and I left the relays in place but pulled the fuses, if I ever have to pass inspection I will just plug the fuses back in for show. I first cleared all the ECU CEL codes then did the Cobb stock flash minus AP, not sure if I had to do it this way but I did and this also cured the flashing CC light as well. Then once the car was back to normal power I flashed the Stage One minus AP.

Last edited by Skankyfrankie; 05-31-2013 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:09 PM   #774
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If you use the tools I listed earlier the passenger side valve is not really that big of deal, just have to move a few hoses and wires to get at the valve to pipe flange, none have fluids so not too hard once you figure out how to get that bracket bolt off wiithout stripping the head, thats why the impact is critical. And clearnace wise you have to use the 1/4 drive stuff to fit under the intake runner. Also once you get it unbolted it takes a little wiggling it around just right for the valve to come out. I found a beer in one hand worked best LOL. I am sure I could never figure out how to get it back in there but who cares it's never going back on. Then just plate off the pipe, dont try to remove it until you have reason to tear into it farther.
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:12 PM   #775
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so how is the removal done for an 06 WRX? block off the heads and take EVERYTHING out then turn off codes?
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