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Old 08-26-2013, 09:37 PM   #801
JonnyV2889
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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post

It was easier to just tap the port in the head and thread a bolt in with a copper washer than try to extract the ones I broke off. Tough I didnt have the luxury have having the engine out.
Done it both ways (plates & bolts). Use grease to hold chips from dropping in the head.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:42 PM   #802
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Done it both ways (plates & bolts). Use grease to hold chips from dropping in the head.
Yeah my drivers side is a plate and the passenger side is a bolt. I wasnt too concerned about chips, I let them fly, at worst they mess up the turbine blades on my td04. More than likely they just chill at the lowest point of the headers.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:42 PM   #803
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For the 06 can I just delete the CEL and be ok if the codes are just pulling for the secondary air pump, p0410??
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:07 AM   #804
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FWIW, I have an 06, just got finished with removing air pump and all pipes associated with it. I did however plug in the (pressure sensor?) that is located on the drivers side. This was done in conjunction with a Cobb Stg 2 and ACT HD Clutch and streetlite flywheel. I have about 150 miles on it with no CEL yet. I read some posts that say you don't need to plug in the sensor, but until I get time to test, I can't be sure if you can leave the two sensors unplugged when eliminating the air pump system and not get a CEL.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:10 AM   #805
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Originally Posted by 123mfg View Post
FWIW, I have an 06, just got finished with removing air pump and all pipes associated with it. I did however plug in the (pressure sensor?) that is located on the drivers side. This was done in conjunction with a Cobb Stg 2 and ACT HD Clutch and streetlite flywheel. I have about 150 miles on it with no CEL yet. I read some posts that say you don't need to plug in the sensor, but until I get time to test, I can't be sure if you can leave the two sensors unplugged when eliminating the air pump system and not get a CEL.
WRX or STI ?
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:34 AM   #806
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i was just thinking on deleting the CEL's, would this be an issue? anyone think
?
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:13 AM   #807
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WRX or STI ?
06 WRX Wagon
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:18 AM   #808
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i was just thinking on deleting the CEL's, would this be an issue? anyone think
?

I will have to research the FSM, but my opinion is that if you delete the CEL relating to the pressure sensor the car may run, but not run optimally. Think "electrical tape over the check engine light" I am not 100% sure, but that sensor allows the ECU to adjust boost based on atmospheric pressure.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:07 PM   #809
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06 WRX Wagon
hmmm, didn't think we had a sensor in our valve.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:09 PM   #810
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i was just thinking on deleting the CEL's, would this be an issue? anyone think
?

my valves are stick closed and I just deleted the codes - 14-15 of them )it's in this thread WAAAAAY back up there somewhere)

no problems years later. (I may have the parts pulled and plates installed if the engine ever comes out)
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:42 PM   #811
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P0410 ?
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:12 PM   #812
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hmmm, didn't think we had a sensor in our valve.
Well, I wasn't sure either. The sensor looked similar to what some folks posted who owned 07+ and when I looked at the wiring diagram in the FSM one of the two valves shown was labeled "SECONDARY AIR COMBINATION CUT VALVE LH (WITH BUILT-IN PRESSURE SENSOR)" So, I am assuming that my car has that sensor. I have not checked the build date on the mfr tag; maybe mine is a late 06? I have looked into this some more but cannot find out what the pressure sensor does or what other systems it is affected by.
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Old 11-08-2013, 05:30 AM   #813
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Default 07 air pump removal

hi all, i have read this thread and searched for my specific question but haven't seen it anywhere so i'm reaching out. if i missed it and its already been said elsewhere a link would be greatly appreciated.

i have the 07 wrx and one of the valve stuck closed codes. i know that i can't simply unplug both air re-circ pumps because i have the atmospheric sensor in one of them. i have no interest in making my car lighter or my engine bay less cluttered at this point. i work a ton so i am trying to handle this with the least time spent as i can. i have contacted a reputable tuner in my area over the phone and the code clearing/computer flashing part of the job is lined up, at least in principle.
what I'm hoping to do is to leave both the valves and the pump in place. I'm thinking i can unbolt and remove the crossover tube and install my block off plates from under the car. would this be feasible? i'm a former auto mechanic (now in factory based assembly work) so i'm sure i'll have all the tools needed. are the bolts accessible for removing the crossover tube accessible from under the car?

thanks for your time and apologies in advance for the noob question
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:16 AM   #814
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Originally Posted by TxFxL View Post
hi all, i have read this thread and searched for my specific question but haven't seen it anywhere so i'm reaching out. if i missed it and its already been said elsewhere a link would be greatly appreciated.

i have the 07 wrx and one of the valve stuck closed codes. i know that i can't simply unplug both air re-circ pumps because i have the atmospheric sensor in one of them. i have no interest in making my car lighter or my engine bay less cluttered at this point. i work a ton so i am trying to handle this with the least time spent as i can. i have contacted a reputable tuner in my area over the phone and the code clearing/computer flashing part of the job is lined up, at least in principle.
what I'm hoping to do is to leave both the valves and the pump in place. I'm thinking i can unbolt and remove the crossover tube and install my block off plates from under the car. would this be feasible? i'm a former auto mechanic (now in factory based assembly work) so i'm sure i'll have all the tools needed. are the bolts accessible for removing the crossover tube accessible from under the car?

thanks for your time and apologies in advance for the noob question
If both valves are stuck closed, and you don't care about leaving them, just delete the codes. no need to remove any parts including the xover.
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:20 AM   #815
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If both valves are stuck closed, and you don't care about leaving them, just delete the codes. no need to remove any parts including the xover.
But there have been reports of valves going from stuck closed to stuck open.
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:38 AM   #816
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If both valves are stuck closed, and you don't care about leaving them, just delete the codes. no need to remove any parts including the xover.
As of now only one valve is stuck closed, getting the p2443 code. Pretty sure that's the exact code, at work right now
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:44 AM   #817
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I have been clearing the code when it comes up (usually once every 2 weeks or so) but I have my inspection coming up in January so I'm trying to get ahead of this problem
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:46 AM   #818
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Originally Posted by TxFxL View Post

As of now only one valve is stuck closed, getting the p2443 code. Pretty sure that's the exact code, at work right now
I would pull power to valves and pump, and seal up the connectors on the harness side. Disable DTCs and call it a day.
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:08 AM   #819
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Originally Posted by JonnyV2889 View Post
I would pull power to valves and pump, and seal up the connectors on the harness side. Disable DTCs and call it a day.
I have to leave power to the valve with the atmospheric sensor though, or else it will run like crap right?
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Old 11-10-2013, 12:51 AM   #820
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But there have been reports of valves going from stuck closed to stuck open.
I have no idea what the stats are. I think I'm going on about 3 years now. No issues.

Seems to me, if they are corroded enough the solenoid can't move them, they are unlikely to drift open.
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Old 11-10-2013, 11:42 AM   #821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxFxL View Post
hi all, i have read this thread and searched for my specific question but haven't seen it anywhere so i'm reaching out. if i missed it and its already been said elsewhere a link would be greatly appreciated.

i have the 07 wrx and one of the valve stuck closed codes. i know that i can't simply unplug both air re-circ pumps because i have the atmospheric sensor in one of them. i have no interest in making my car lighter or my engine bay less cluttered at this point. i work a ton so i am trying to handle this with the least time spent as i can. i have contacted a reputable tuner in my area over the phone and the code clearing/computer flashing part of the job is lined up, at least in principle.
what I'm hoping to do is to leave both the valves and the pump in place. I'm thinking i can unbolt and remove the crossover tube and install my block off plates from under the car. would this be feasible? i'm a former auto mechanic (now in factory based assembly work) so i'm sure i'll have all the tools needed. are the bolts accessible for removing the crossover tube accessible from under the car?

thanks for your time and apologies in advance for the noob question
Leave the two valves and the air-pump in place and leave all the electrical connectors plugged-in. (You can remove the air-pump later to free up some under-hood space).

Remove the RH (driver's side) tube going from the valve to the head and install a block-off plate (and OEM gasket) onto the head.

Leave the LH (passenger's side) tube in place (because you can't remove it without removing the intake manifold), cut the mating-head off of the tube where it is attached to the engine-head, and install a block-off plate (and OEM gasket) to the head.

Have a tuner or similar shut-off the codes for the air-pump and secondary valves, but not the atmospheric sensor.
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Old 11-10-2013, 11:44 AM   #822
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Thanks so much, exactly the information I was looking for, good on ya!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-E View Post
Leave the two valves and the air-pump in place and leave all the electrical connectors plugged-in. (You can remove the air-pump later to free up some under-hood space).

Remove the RH (driver's side) tube going from the valve to the head and install a block-off plate (and OEM gasket) onto the head.

Leave the LH (passenger's side) tube in place (because you can't remove it without removing the intake manifold), cut the mating-head off of the tube where it is attached to the engine-head, and install a block-off plate (and OEM gasket) to the head.

Have a tuner or similar shut-off the codes for the air-pump and secondary valves, but not the atmospheric sensor.
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:53 PM   #823
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Having local dealership put KStech blockoff plates on my 07. Costing like $400 but didn't like the idea of taking off the intake manifold myself. also having them replace the oil pan and oil pickup. And i'm going to have them keep the parts so i can put the atmospheric sensor back inplug after i mod it.
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Old 11-13-2013, 05:48 PM   #824
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Having local dealership put KStech blockoff plates on my 07. Costing like $400 but didn't like the idea of taking off the intake manifold myself. also having them replace the oil pan and oil pickup. And i'm going to have them keep the parts so i can put the atmospheric sensor back inplug after i mod it.
You don't have to remove the intake Mani to do the job.
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:14 PM   #825
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yeah but its 20 degrees here right now and i dont want to hack at my car trying to get the passenger one out from under the intake. No garage here.
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