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Old 04-25-2008, 02:47 PM   #126
Mechie3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangmonkey View Post
we need a guide for removal...who's got this down to a science?
Similar, 07 STI:

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-inst...p-removal.html
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Old 04-25-2008, 07:08 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke209 View Post
Any ideas with the resistor?
Interested in this also. The whole system is worthless in Florida, and its way to expensive to replace. Just got the P2443 cel (maybe something as simple as a relay gone bad).

My guess is that the resistance isnt constant so this probably wont work right?

Last edited by JRL; 04-25-2008 at 07:18 PM.
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Old 04-25-2008, 07:12 PM   #128
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You rock...
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Old 04-25-2008, 09:56 PM   #129
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Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
So after doing this. When you turn the cel's off, do they stay off permanantly?
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Old 04-26-2008, 02:09 PM   #130
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Remnex removed the main air pump (behind the battery) and plugged the drivers side head with the KS Tech block off plate.

Did you notice Remnex did not remove the sensor/harness between the pump and head? (it lies behind the intake manifold)
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Old 04-26-2008, 02:36 PM   #131
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yes, and can you still pass emissions tests in states such as NY even if you turn off the CELs?
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Old 04-26-2008, 06:33 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpunlamd View Post
Remnex removed the main air pump (behind the battery) and plugged the drivers side head with the KS Tech block off plate.

Did you notice Remnex did not remove the sensor/harness between the pump and head? (it lies behind the intake manifold)
This because this pieces on the atmospheric pressure sensor. This was posted about two-three pages ago.... if I remember correctly.

I have been running this for several months and have not had a single problem. Once I turned off the CEL's with RomRaider, everything has been smooth sailing.
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Old 04-26-2008, 07:46 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remnex View Post
I have been running this for several months and have not had a single problem. Once I turned off the CEL's with RomRaider, everything has been smooth sailing.
Man, thats a no brainer. $99 connector + free software + and 45 mins worth of work to permanantly get rid of the air pump and have no codes.

Or, $900 to have Subaru replace it, only to have it break again.

Thanks for the info!!!
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Old 04-27-2008, 03:51 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRL View Post
Or, $900 to have Subaru replace it, only to have it break again.
Replace what?
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Old 04-27-2008, 01:45 PM   #135
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I spoke to Rob at AMR this past weekend, and he consulted me on the whole "Air pump delete mod". His point of view is that the air pump helps "near stock or stg2 w/o protune" WRX/STI save hp by electrically creating vacuum when using the a/c and such. Other vehicles without the Air pump requires the motor to create mechanical vacuum pressure when using the a/c and would cause about a 5hp loss. But with all the BS aside, Rob stated if you are going to do the delete, it would be best to remove the whole assembly (not leaving the valve hanging there). He has REMOVED and TUNED many Subaru's with the whole assembly removed with no issues.
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Old 04-27-2008, 01:51 PM   #136
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So basically here are the points:

1. The air pump actually makes hp for a non-protuned vehicle.
2. The air pump delete can be compensated simply with a protune.
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Old 04-27-2008, 02:27 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke209 View Post
Replace what?
If you throw a P2443 cel, like I did out of warranty. It will cost $900 to have it fixed. Already confirmed that its not a relay, the valve itself is stuck.

So, the alternative is a $75 cable (since Im drive-by-wire), some free software, and an hour of my time.
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Old 04-27-2008, 03:36 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRL View Post
If you throw a P2443 cel, like I did out of warranty. It will cost $900 to have it fixed. Already confirmed that its not a relay, the valve itself is stuck.

So, the alternative is a $75 cable (since Im drive-by-wire), some free software, and an hour of my time.

Remove the valve, and there will be no valve to get stuck.
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Old 04-27-2008, 04:21 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRL View Post
So, the alternative is a $75 cable (since Im drive-by-wire), some free software, and an hour of my time.
What $75 cable are you referring to? (LINK?)
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Old 04-27-2008, 06:17 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpunlamd View Post
Remove the valve, and there will be no valve to get stuck.
Thats exactly my point. Remove the whole system and clear the codes with RomRaider, which is why I want the $79 cable in the link below:

http://www.tactrix.com/product_info....3291307e41a845
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Old 04-27-2008, 10:14 PM   #141
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I've removed the entire system. I was "protuned" this weekend no problem (again, on an 06 with the harness stillin place and relays in place, but all of the valves adn pump removed). I say "protuned" because my engine needs replacing so I wasn't techincally tuned, but did have a custom map put on. The resistance of the secondary air pressure sensor is not constant, but it'd be way to much work to figure out how it's supposed to work and then mimic it with a circuit. That was only a backup in case I couldn't be protuned for whatever reason. Since I was able to, I'm not concerned.

Last edited by Mechie3; 04-27-2008 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:01 PM   #142
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Just did the air pump delete. Of course, I have the expected several codes. Infact my STI refuses to boost over 0.5Bar. Cant wait for my protune coming up.
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:15 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpunlamd View Post
Just did the air pump delete. Of course, I have the expected several codes. Infact my STI refuses to boost over 0.5Bar. Cant wait for my protune coming up.
I believe those CEL are putting your car into Limp mode
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Old 06-06-2008, 04:00 PM   #144
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Another reason to remove these is to make changing the clutch easier. Did my friends the other day (clutch) and the driver side valve had to be unbolted from the block, back of the heads, and from the tube going to the back of the heads in order to get the starter off. Huge PITA trying to put it back on. If we had the plates we wouldn't just ditched it right then and there.
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Old 08-02-2008, 12:12 AM   #145
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Ok, I need a guide to show how to remove the whole 2006/2007 wrx air pump system.

The 07 only has it on one side, I need to know how to remove the other.
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Old 08-02-2008, 08:05 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke209 View Post
Ok, I need a guide to show how to remove the whole 2006/2007 wrx air pump system.

The 07 only has it on one side, I need to know how to remove the other.
The passenger side is supposed to be a bitc* to remove. I've read that it will be much easier to have the car on a lift.
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Old 08-03-2008, 01:36 AM   #147
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Both sides are a B**** to take out. Theres a bolt under the intake manifold for the drivers side valve. Plus the passenger side hard line is difficult to manuver out. Good luck
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Old 08-03-2008, 03:11 AM   #148
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Ok, it does not look like this



On the passenger, it did not have a second valve but just a hard line from the driver side valve to the passenger side of the head.

I was able to get it out, BUT, I did have to remove my turbo and also my intake manifold.
(We're doing tgv deletes and an inlet install, so it's all good)

I will post a picture of it tomorrow (if I remember)
But this should not be done IMO unless you're removing alot of crap because it's not easy to remove.
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Old 08-03-2008, 06:32 PM   #149
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Well...There are 2 valves its just that both of them are on the drivers side. So...the passenger side valve is located right next to the drivers side valve.
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Old 08-03-2008, 06:38 PM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke209 View Post
On the passenger, it did not have a second valve but just a hard line from the driver side valve to the passenger side of the head.

I was able to get it out, BUT, I did have to remove my turbo and also my intake manifold.
(We're doing tgv deletes and an inlet install, so it's all good)

I will post a picture of it tomorrow (if I remember)
But this should not be done IMO unless you're removing alot of crap because it's not easy to remove.
Yes that picture is not correct. The two valves are on the drivers side of the motor, one is buried under the intake mani. You can remove everything with out removing the mani, but you better have an assortment of u-joints.

The hard line running to the passenger side is the hardest to remove and does require the removal of the up pipe to get to where it attaches to the passenger side heads. Once the up pipe is out you do need to separate the inlet from the turbo so you can lift the hard line straight up and out. Requires some twisting and maneuvering if you can get someone to help it will make it a little easier.

-Rene
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