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Old 03-05-2007, 11:53 AM   #1
subizzo02
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Default My heater isnt working

On my 02 wrx. My rad had busted because the water in the resivour tank had froze. There was nowhere for the hot coolant and pressure to go so it broke open. Now I replaced the radiator and the heater was acting funny. My engines temperature always stays below halfway. Right after the replacement of the radiator, my heater didnt work.. And then it would for a little bit and then go back to not working.

At times I would elave it at "0" and then like 3 minutes later set it at "1" and I would get some heat for like 15 seconds before it started to blow cold again. And now I just just straight up cold air. Any ideas on what it can be? Remember, my engines temp is always normal.

Some told me I have a clogged heater core. Some said it was air in the lines. And some said it was the valve that allows water to the heater core. Any ideas? Much appreciated. thanks.
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Old 03-05-2007, 12:41 PM   #2
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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I would start at the coolant rezivor(sp?) does it have anything in it?? It should, there is a hot and a cold line on it... Does the raidiator itself have visible coolant in it...? if not, you need some...

You prolly low on coolant and/or have mucho air in the line... dod you replace the radiator yourself?? Was it "burped" apon refilling the rad?

When you start your car, and first rev the motor, do you hear a "water rushing" sound?
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Old 03-05-2007, 12:46 PM   #3
Dirty25RS
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yeah, my talon does that, it is because it has air bubbles in the heater core. It ingests air so i have to regularly 'burp' the coolant lines to fix the problem. The two lines that have the most significant effect if they burp them are the feed and return lines to the heater core. Just squeeze them and smack them firmly with something over and over again with the radiator cap off and the car running (FROM A COLD START and you will see air bubbles coming out of the radiator cap area as the coolant flows by. It is also beneficial to play with the throttle while doing this. I can't remember if your model year is drive by wire or not. If not just pull that throttle cable or that metal piece it attaches to a lil bit and that'll shock the coolant system a little bit and get the bubbles moving.

P.S. the first time i did this it took about 1.5hrs of burping to get all the air bubbles out

P.P.S. my talon also had a blown radiator from the coolant freezing (not when i owned it though.)
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Old 03-05-2007, 02:24 PM   #4
subizzo02
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Default Coolant

It actually has more then the full line. And I took some out today... I tried burping it but Nothing. And Where are the lines that goto the ehater core? I cant find them in the wrx. Are they under the intercooler?
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Old 03-05-2007, 03:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
On my 02 wrx. My rad had busted because the water in the resivour tank had froze. There was nowhere for the hot coolant and pressure to go so it broke open.
First of all, that isn't water in the overflow tank, it is coolant... if it froze, you possibly froze alot more then just that and damaged things in the process. Anyway, that isn't how the overflow tank works either. it isn't sealed, so even if the liquid in it was frozen solid, your radiator would just vent overboard then. The cap on the overflow tank does NOT seal 100% tight.



anyway, suby's are a pain to burp, sounds like you have air trapped in it yet.
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Old 03-05-2007, 03:28 PM   #6
subizzo02
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I know it doesnt seal 100 percent but there is a hose that goes down there. The hose was inside an ice block. So the cap doesnt really matter in this situation. I asked the guy who had the car before me if he had put water. I got this car not too long ago and the guy before me said oh it was under the FULL line so he added WATER in the overflow tank. And I guess it never mixed well. There was no freezing inside the engine though.
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Old 03-05-2007, 03:40 PM   #7
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But if I had air wouldnt my temp go up?
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Old 03-05-2007, 03:47 PM   #8
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nah, my talon has ran fine the whole time i've had it with the same exact problem. the thing is.....the heater core has very small diameter areas for the coolant to flow through and those air bubbles are very large relative to these veins. in the engine block you have a whole wet jacket to cool cool the engine, much more volume compared to the volume of these tiny air bubbles, the veins in your radiator are also larger than those in the heater core. The air bubbles will simply flow out of the radiator because the veins are big enough, so your engine cools fine. they basically get stuck in the heater core. Its like trying to stuff a basketball down an exhaust pipe.
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Old 03-05-2007, 03:50 PM   #9
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Ohh.. I turned my car on and pressed on the hoses with the cap off.... It started to get warm and the coolant was rising up so I had to put the cap back on but I did see gurgles when I was accelerating it... Also When it was at normal temp, I found the heater core hoses and squeezed them a bit. They were cold. Im guessing no water is flowing through the hoses at all..
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Old 03-05-2007, 04:19 PM   #10
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have you ever put stopleak in the coolant system? that's sometimes the culprit when there is very little flow through the heater core. It is still very possible that its just air bubbles in the heater core. you can try squeezing the other coolant hoses too, the feed and return on the radiator and the turbo one.
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Old 03-05-2007, 04:54 PM   #11
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I did. But the heater core hoses arnt hot! Doesnt that mean its a valve or something? There has to be a valve that lets air in the heater core as well as stops it no? I did use a stop leak but it was a liquid
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Old 03-05-2007, 06:05 PM   #12
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Check to see if the heater knob is actually still connected and is opening the valve to allow the hot coolent to the heater core. And if it is you need to burp it some more, don't worry about a little coolent comeing out of the rad fill opening when it's open the air comeing out will do that as it boubles out.
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Old 03-05-2007, 06:43 PM   #13
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This exact same thing happened to me last month, and i went to my mech. and he told me to do something i would have never tried or thought of, but he said it has worked on a lot of his customers cars, so i tried it and it worked great. He told me to buy a new radiator cap and take out the spring so that it will just hold the coolant and no pressure. Then to drive it for 2-3 days remembering to check the coolant everyday to keep it full. He said doing this will give your car plenty of time to burp itself. And after 2-3 days put the stock cap back on and if you have heat you have got all the bubbles out. And it worked great and he saved me a lot of money. But remember to keep coolant in it and try it at your own risk
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Old 03-05-2007, 07:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxdrvr View Post
Check to see if the heater knob is actually still connected and is opening the valve to allow the hot coolent to the heater core. And if it is you need to burp it some more, don't worry about a little coolent comeing out of the rad fill opening when it's open the air comeing out will do that as it boubles out.
The heater core is full-flow, there is no heater valve. The temperature is controlled by blending the air.
It probably has air in the system but there is the possibility of damage due to the freezing that occurred.
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Old 03-05-2007, 08:41 PM   #15
subizzo02
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Woohooo!!! My dad helped me out with it. We blew from the inlet hose to the heater core and nothing..Then we bloew the outlet hose and it started to spit grime. Then we put em back and its working great now. :-) Thank for all the inputs. Now I can go out at night with only a sweater. :0
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Old 03-06-2007, 08:37 AM   #16
Dirty25RS
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stopleak
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