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Old 12-05-2001, 11:30 PM   #1
WFO
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Default What type of oil filter and oil for the WRX

What brand of Oil and oil filter are you using? I've read the users manual, just wondering what brand of filter and oil. Just curious. I only have 400 miles on the wrx wagon and will be buying oil and filter soon.

thanks........
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Old 12-06-2001, 12:16 AM   #2
wolf8314
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Default I use

Fram X2 oil filters and quaker state 10w 40. Has always worked for me. One of the mechanics at my dealership said to use puralator oil filters. Then a salesman said he used subaru oil filters.......ive used fram in all my cars and never had a problem.
Wolf
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Old 12-06-2001, 12:56 AM   #3
industrial
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I'm fairly new to Subaru ownership but I've done alot of "research" on the subject and this is what I do:

Get real subaru filters from your dealer or subaruparts.com. I hear they are of decent quality, purator brand or something like that. They only cost around $5 each with a new plug gasket included. Buy the cheapest oil you can find(that will match the weather where you are from) with the certifing starburst on it and change your oil every 3000 miles. Change your oil filter at factory recommended oil change intervals(every 7500 miles after the first few changes).

I don't buy the hype about synthetics and all that jazz. It's alot better to change cheap dino oil every 3000 than to use expensive synthetics and change every 7500-15000 like some guys do.

Regards,
Bernard
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Old 12-06-2001, 01:14 AM   #4
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Welcome to the board!

Do a search on the threads... this topic has been discussed to death in the greatest detail. Check it out.

Good luck...
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Old 12-06-2001, 01:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Buy the cheapest oil you can find(that will match the weather where you are from) with the certifing starburst on it and change your oil every 3000 miles. Change your oil filter at factory recommended oil change intervals(every 7500 miles after the first few changes).

That's funny. I suppose you put the cheapest gas (read: Arco) in the car too? And when you wash it do you use dish soap? How about when you go to find medical services? Do you cruise down to Mexico to find some back-yard doctor to work on you?

The way I look at it is this: cheap=bare minimum to get the label. Why not get something a little bit better. Or a lot better.
And why bother changing the oil if you aren't going to change the filter at the same time? You change the oil at 3000 miles, again at 6000 miles, then change the filter 1500 miles later, then another 1500 miles to change the oil, then 3000 miles, then change them both after another 3000 miles? That makes no sense at all.

Change your filter every time you change the oil.

Pros of synthetic:
supposedly increased fuel economy + power
supposedly better for the environment
lubricates better (allowing longer intervals)
may make engine last longer under harder abuse

Cons of synthetic:
price.

I've got an RS and I use Mobil 1 + Purolator PureOne PL14460
It's my choice.
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Old 12-06-2001, 08:00 AM   #6
Martin Ritchie
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I agree with horatio. Yes, you should always change your filter when you change the oil, otherwise the dirty oil in the filter mixes with the new oil. If it makes you feel better to change oil more frequently than manual calls for (or if you drive really hard, autox, etc) fine, otherwise it is safe to follow the manual. Personally I use Mobil-1 5w-30 synthetic. I don't use Mobil-1 filter. Subaru OEM filter is a Purolator, I believe PL 14460 is equivalent. Bosch 3310 evidently fits too.l
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Old 12-06-2001, 09:14 AM   #7
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I use FRAM X2 and Mobil-1 5w-30. I had been driving for over 20 years now and think that it money well spend on synthetic oil. I change my oil every 3000-5000 miles or when it looks dirty.

This is my first use of FRAM oil filter. After 2000 miles, oil still looks clean.

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Old 12-06-2001, 10:33 AM   #8
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Try Mobil1 10w-30 FFV, it is a special flexible fuel version of mobil 1 that has no viscosity improvers at all, and only available in California. As for filters, I recommed the purolator pure one part #PL14460
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Old 12-06-2001, 10:42 AM   #9
Bradus
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Filter: I buy an OEM filter from my local Subaru dealership for $5.

Oil: I buy Mobil 1 Tr-Synthetic Formula 10W-30 motor oil.

I change both the filter and oil every 3,000 miles.

One word of advice: when I changed my oil and filter for the first time, the filter was on so tight, I thought it would never come off. Although it did come free after 30-minutes of work, one suggestion posted on i-clib was to ram a screwdriver into the side of the filter to aid removal. Its most likely a vacuum issue rather than having been fitted too tightly, but ramming a screwdriver through the side sure beats lying on the ground for 30 minutes. IMHO.

Cheers!
David
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Old 12-06-2001, 10:45 AM   #10
Julian
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Purolator is the OEM for Subaru filters. If you can find a parts store that stocks them, that's what I'd suggest. $3-4 per filter (PN 14460).

As far as the cheapest oil with the certifying starburst on it compared to more spendy oil...I agree with Industrial. All oils have to meet certain requirements to get the burst logo...what's better about Castrol? Maybe they charge that much more for their Marketing Department?? And yeah, I run Arco gas, or USA gas here in SoCal. Until there's proof of some benefit/return on investment for the spendier stuff, why bother?

It all has to meet the same requirements.
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Old 12-06-2001, 11:00 AM   #11
TheWRX
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Default subaruparts.com

Just received my order of oil filters from www.subaruparts.com. From the main page, click on the "Catalog" link, then "Subaru Parts", then "Tune-Up Section", then "Impreza", then "Tune-Up Items", where you will find the "Oil Filter Kit" for $4.62. This includes the oil filter and the drain plug washer. You will probably want to order a few of them at once to save on shipping charges ($6.95 for the 6 I ordered). It took about a week for the order to arrive. I plan to do the oil change this weekend, but I'm very confident that this is the proper filter, it's the Subaru OEM filter made by Purolator.
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Old 12-06-2001, 11:13 AM   #12
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Thanks for all the reply's, I appreciate the info!!
WFO
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Old 12-06-2001, 12:00 PM   #13
industrial
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Quote:
Originally posted by horatio102

That's funny. I suppose you put the cheapest gas (read: Arco) in the car too? And when you wash it do you use dish soap? How about when you go to find medical services? Do you cruise down to Mexico to find some back-yard doctor to work on you?

The way I look at it is this: cheap=bare minimum to get the label. Why not get something a little bit better. Or a lot better.
And why bother changing the oil if you aren't going to change the filter at the same time? You change the oil at 3000 miles, again at 6000 miles, then change the filter 1500 miles later, then another 1500 miles to change the oil, then 3000 miles, then change them both after another 3000 miles? That makes no sense at all.
Ummm...yes I put the cheapest gas I can find in my car that meets the minimal requirements (i.e. 91 octane). Usually that's Arco, sometimes it's Moblie. What the heck do you do? Look for the most expensive price? Do you actually pay the extra ~3-7 cents a gallon for cleaning additives in Shell/Texaco gas? 91 octane gas is 91 octane gas. R/M method.

Why would I use dish soap? Your talking about using expensive oil: $8/quart, 4.8quarts/change = $40/3000miles. Buying nice car wash soap is like $9 and it'll last me about 40 weeks.

"How about when you go to find medical services? Do you cruise down to Mexico to find some back-yard doctor to work on you?"


Regardless, WFO: I suggest you do some research on your own before you blindly put $32/3000miles extra in to the oil companies pockets. Consumer reports had an excellent write up on oil and synthetics. Search the web and you shall find.

Regards,
Bernard
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Old 12-06-2001, 12:16 PM   #14
4Runner
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by industrial



Why would I use dish soap? Your talking about using expensive oil: $8/quart, 4.8quarts/change = $40/3000miles.

How can they do that in the US of A? I paid 2.97/quart for Mobil-1 at Target or Wal-Mart.
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Old 12-06-2001, 01:51 PM   #15
industrial
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Just using extremes. Try pricing some Amsoil or Royal purple. If our cars are good enough for Moblie-1 why not go Amsoil 0W-30 uber synthetic oil?

BTW: $3/quart for Moblie-1 is a nice price. Wal-mart and target around here charge anywhere from $5-7 per quart depending on how much you buy.

Regards,
Bernard
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Old 12-06-2001, 02:49 PM   #16
Richard L.
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Quote:
Originally posted by industrial:
I don't buy the hype about synthetics and all that jazz. It's alot better to change cheap dino oil every 3000 than to use expensive synthetics and change every 7500-15000 like some guys do.
Let me remind you that you have a high performance turbocharged vehicle. A turbocharger can spin in excess of 10,000 rpm and generate a tremendous amount of heat under full boost. Use cheap dino oil and you'll be coking up your turbo. Synthetic oil can withstand the extreme heat better than dino oil and doesn't break down as easily. The flash point of dino oil is between 400F and 415F. On the other hand, the flash point of synthetic oil is at least 445F. But hey, it's your turbo, so you can use whatever cheap dino oil you want with it.

--
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Old 12-06-2001, 02:59 PM   #17
CosmoTheCat
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The price difference between Mobil 1 and Castrol GTX over 100k miles is only about $20 total. That's figuring 5k intervals for the synthetic and 3k intervals for the dino. If you go out to 7k miles then you're spending about $130 LESS with the synthetic. If you use 89 cent/quart oil then you're only spending $80 more. Is it worth $80, knowing that you're using the cheapest stuff out there?
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Old 12-06-2001, 03:51 PM   #18
Richard L.
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And you will not find cheap dino oil being used in a Dodge Viper, a Mercedes, a Chevrolet Corvette Z06, or a Porsche 911 Carrera. None of these cars even has a turbo.

--
Richard
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Old 12-06-2001, 10:40 PM   #19
industrial
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http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.shtml

http://www.bmcno.org/techtip_motor_oil.htm

http://63.166.240.165/ldgautomotive/newsoil.htm

Lots of reading there. It's amazing how hard it is to find good information about oil that doesn't have some kind of oil company connection. I tend to trust CR more than most other sources but I concede that most New York cabbies don't drive turbo-charged/high compression vehicles. Anyhow, as long as you change out your oil with at least certified oil at the factory interval you should be ok. If you auto-cross or drive your car hard, change more often or use synthetic AND change more often. Your choice.

I've read that even though the base oil in synthetic oil is nearly indestructable, it's the additives that wear out(just as fast as dino oil). I've heard/read numbers ranging from 3800 miles - 5000 miles for additive life in various engines. If anyone can point me to some good independant research I'm open to it.

100,000miles
34 Changes / every 3000
Generic Oil = $146
Name Brand Oil = $326
Mobile-1 = $816
Amsoil = $1305

20 Changes / every 5000
Generic Oil = $86
Name Brand Oil = $192
Mobile-1 = $480
Amsoil = $768

14 Changes / every 7500
Generic Oil = $60
Name Brand Oil = $134
Mobile-1 = $336
Amsoil = $537

Generic Certified Dino Oil = $.90/quart
Name Brand Dino Oil = $2/quart
Mobile-1 = $5/quart
Amsoil 0W-30 = $8/quart

WRX Oil Capacity = 4.8 quarts

Regards,
Bernard

Last edited by industrial; 12-06-2001 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 12-07-2001, 02:25 AM   #20
CosmoTheCat
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Quote:
Even the expensive synthetics (typically, $3 or $4 a quart) worked no better than conventional motor oils in our taxi tests, but they're worth considering for extreme driving conditions high ambient temperatures and high engine load or very cold temperatures

I consider my driving to be more extreme than a New York cab. Why? Because they drive around, stop and go (more like crawl), here, there, everywhere. The only time those cabs rest is when they're getting gas and service. The oil barely ever has time to seep back down into the oil pan. My daily commute consists of jumping in the car, driving the .6-.8 mile to the freeway, going another 1.5-2 miles on the freeway, then another .8-1 mile to the school parking garage. The car barely has enough time to completely warm up. Then I shut it down for two hours, jump in the car, and race back home. If there isn't heavy traffic on the freeway, I'm usually on the gas.

And the chart at the bottom of the CR page noted that the synthetics had better low-temp flow characteristics. That is actually a good thing. I think your numbers were a little on the high side, but maybe it's just the .6Q difference between the 2.0 and 2.5.
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Old 12-07-2001, 02:27 AM   #21
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Oh. I wanted to clarify something so those who don't read between the lines are kept up to speed.

In the quote above it was noted that the synthetics didn't seem to make a difference. Here's my arguement: If the vehicles had been allowed to cool overnight, or for several hours between short trips, there may have been more noticeable differences between the dino and synthetic results. Maybe, maybe not.
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