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Old 03-16-2010, 07:14 PM   #126
Kenny AKA gmrsti
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be careful guys the power steering feed (high press) side needs high pressure line ONLY!! i laughed when i had first seen PandL's joke of a steering line hahaha, obviously not intellegent when it comes to hydraulics. the hose you need to use will look like -10 on the outside and have a -6 inner. ITS BEEFY!! remember small overlooks can cause major damage!!! ill post pics shortly of the proper setup incl. all part numbers/hose types
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:20 PM   #127
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Yeah, it has to be a ptfe line with powersteering line ends, they are stainless not aluminium. The one I have a pic of it the proper end.
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:29 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Money View Post
This isn't a good idea bro. That fitting is not high pressure. You need to run crimped on fittings only or a power steering designed fitting seen here.

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index...ower!_Steering

I agree the earls fitting you used looks soo much nicer, but it's going to be bad news if it leaks. Your car will catch on fire since the up pipe and turbo are right there. I had to suck it up too and get fittings that were silver and didn't match the rest of my fuel, coolant, & crank vent systems.
D, i changed this already. it got replaced. thanks for the concern though, i now have a high pressure teflon crimped line. it did leak, lots of smoke, and almost bad news i can laugh now but im fortunate.
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Old 03-18-2010, 09:20 AM   #129
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so this setup will not fit with the oem setup/factory inlet then?
because i have my motor out,perfect time to do it,but down the road i will be going rotated.
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Old 03-18-2010, 10:46 AM   #130
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so this setup will not fit with the oem setup/factory inlet then?
It will. Well, it better, since that's what I'm doing. It might depend on your specific PS pump. I eyeballed mine holding parts up next to it when the engine was still in.

You might not be able to use the 90* and come directly off the pump towards the fender. It looks like I might have to angle it forward just enough to clear the turbo inlet and then hook under my intake pipe before being secured to the frame rail for support.
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:30 PM   #131
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Just run it down the frame rail and use a 90 at the pump. dont run it under the manifold.
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:07 AM   #132
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Sounds good,i would like to do this as well because of how the stock lines are ran tucked up on the side of the fuel rails/head.
way too much clutter going on there.
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:38 AM   #133
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I should have pics by monday. Put the line on the rack last night, but have more engine work to do before I do the pump side/put the engine back in.

For the fitting on the pump, I removed the o-ring, but don't see how the fitting seals. It's a standard thread, not NPT and there's no seal on the inside. Did you guys just wrap it with a lot of teflon or stick a copper washer uner the adapter?
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Old 03-19-2010, 12:27 PM   #134
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i put a copper washer, and teflon. originally just had the copper washer but i had a slight leak so i put the teflon on.
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Old 03-21-2010, 11:58 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny AKA gmrsti View Post
be careful guys the power steering feed (high press) side needs high pressure line ONLY!! i laughed when i had first seen PandL's joke of a steering line hahaha, obviously not intellegent when it comes to hydraulics. the hose you need to use will look like -10 on the outside and have a -6 inner. ITS BEEFY!! remember small overlooks can cause major damage!!! ill post pics shortly of the proper setup incl. all part numbers/hose types
kenny
"Yeah, and mine blew up for and almost started a fire. Yeah, I bought it from P & L with their turbo kit.

Sucks "
haha yeah that first design they came out with was bad news. They actually changed it to high pressure line/fittings since then. I have they're 2nd release kit and mine fits really nice running under the manifold.

For the low pressure line from the pump to resovior and resovoir to the rack I did mine just in regular earls swivel seals. From what I was told, that would be ok. What do youthink?

Clutch lines are high pressure too, correct? I did a sick ass setup on mine and I wanted to post info on it so others can do it as well. It consists of a -3an 8" high pressure line, m10x1.0->-3an fitting, and m12->-3an banjo and crush washers. Basically it gives a one sure shot connection from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. It's really neat. haha

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxscaxx View Post
D, i changed this already. it got replaced. thanks for the concern though, i now have a high pressure teflon crimped line. it did leak, lots of smoke, and almost bad news i can laugh now but im fortunate.
Good thing! That had bad news written all over it!
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:29 AM   #136
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So then the original mentioned parts on the first page should not be used?
Should it be made at a hydraulics shop,or are the summit bought parts adequate enough for this?
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:48 PM   #137
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^^ I don't think he's saying that. I think he's referring specifically to the aluminum anodized end fittings and the plain rubber hose used xxscaxx. The fittings on teh first page are aluminum adapters (which are plenty thick) and SS end fittings and teflon hose meant for high pressure.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:50 PM   #138
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excellent,thanks for clearing that up.
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:29 PM   #139
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yeah i ****ed up on that lol. but that picture was used for reference for the adapter fitting for the rack...at least that fitting was ok
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:01 PM   #140
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Josh/ scby rex had told me about this a couple weeks ago. I just happened to stumble across this thread. It seems like there's alot of "use this instead of this". Josh had said the ps lines would get in the way of my rotated kit that I'll be recieving tomorrow. It looks like I'll be ok for the time being although it's a tight fit and I am interested in doing this.

Someone should post a Barney style how-to for people like me From a complete parts/links list to routing of the lines etc.
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:12 PM   #141
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routing is up to you, theres really 2 ways, under the manifold and one similar to stock but out of the way.

The first page has the summit parts you would need, just make sure they are for powersteering lines if you buy them elsewhere. Mainly that the line is teflon and the fittings on that line are stainless. I have the packages for the min parts you need also if you want to stop by.
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:29 AM   #142
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im getting all my pieces in today,probably installing this weekend,ill try to get some pics of the assembly.
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:30 AM   #143
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Only a week late with pics, but here they are.

First, I didn't like the o-ring fitting bit to go on the pump itself. I couldn't pull the stock fitting off either (which itself is an o-ring fitting) to replace it. My issue was that the surface under the hex was beveled. This is probably why other people had trouble with it leaking with just a copper washer. I spun it on a lathe and made that surface nice and clean.Ooooh, shiny.




The return line was replaced with 3/8" fuel line (low pressure return) and zip tied to the ABS lines. The high pressure line was -6AN teflon line with SS end fittings. All the bits used were as suggested in post 1 (except I went to "Earl's Indy" in person and just gave them the list). This also came up and zip tied along the frame rail, but I put some coolant hose over it where it had the potential to rub. If I've learned anything about working with braided lines over the years it's this:
diamond cutting wheels cut cleaner and faster and last longer than carbide wheels
you will stab your fingers multiple times and make them bleed
SS braid can and will rub through anything it touches (and sometimes magically move just to piss you off)



Here's a nice top down view of the new fitting. Unlike the stock bit, it actually doesn't rub against the turbo inlet. Score! Plus, it looks 100x better than bent zinc coated steel and frees up the left side of the manifold.


Took a few minutes to bleed it, but it worked. Started by having the wife turn the wheel (front up on jack stands) as I filled it (car not running). Then I started the car and slowly turned it left. I would stop when it started to shudder to allow the pump to try and catch up and not destroy my rack. Then to the right. After 3 times of this, the shuddering was at a minimum. I went left-right quickly a few times and it went away. Did it a few more times for good measure and I was good to go. No leaks, no problems while actually driving.

Pic ho-ing, waiting for the test drive:
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:41 AM   #144
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nice,looks like what im doing on mine.
on the return line,did you just clamp the rubber hose over the fitting on the rack?
or did you add a fitting to that first.
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Old 03-29-2010, 10:12 AM   #145
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Just clamped it. I used one of the clamps that was on the "S" bent tube that went from the aluminum line to the return port on the tank.

Edit: Pic


Last edited by Mechie3; 03-29-2010 at 11:28 AM. Reason: I find witty responses here amusing
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Old 03-29-2010, 11:13 AM   #146
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These lines can be bought already made "bolt-on status"!
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:57 PM   #147
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Yeah...we know, its been said before. Some of use can make this part for less than 100 bucks though and how we want it.
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Old 03-29-2010, 10:36 PM   #148
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I ended up cutting the s hose on the reservoir and made the line go straight in. The hard line coming from the p/s pump I bent a little and the hose just went under my intake.

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Old 03-29-2010, 10:51 PM   #149
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now lose the oem pressure line.
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Old 03-29-2010, 11:11 PM   #150
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can you get to the steering rack thing without removing the turbo or motor? i've been thinking about doing this but looks preteen tight.
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