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Old 03-20-2007, 08:23 PM   #1
Back Road Runner
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Default Woohoo! a present from Ralispec, a full spread of GroupN goodies :) + One Q?





Engine and tranny mounts, a full array of rear arm bushings, and rear diff bushings all ready to tighten up the whole car.

I've got a set of GT Spec ALKs to take care of the front arm bushings and a set of steering rack bushings too.


Now I just need to install it all...


So the question?
Where can I find torque specs for all these bolts?
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Old 03-20-2007, 10:15 PM   #2
BIGSKYWRX
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I've got a tutorial on clubwrx.net w/ almost all of the drivetrain/suspension torque specs- pics and wrench size too
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Old 03-20-2007, 11:31 PM   #3
Back Road Runner
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Nice! You got quite a bit of info there.
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Old 03-21-2007, 12:08 AM   #4
uathatis
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Hly jesusfire thats a ton of bushigns. reminds me of the thread of the guy with sti who went ape**** over TIC parts, and literally had every part to swap out with his suspension
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Old 03-21-2007, 09:49 AM   #5
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I hope I got everything There's a few that I really really want replacing, but I'm not tremendously fond of the puddy-like stiffness of the rest of the bushings either. I've been "suffering" through the car's stock mush for a few years, and this upgrade has been a long time waiting. Heck about the only thing I wasn't initially planning to replace was the lateral link bushings.

Buying's the easy part. Getting everything installed a another story. Luckily most of them are pretty easy to do, and I've got a mechanic friend that can help me out with a few of the tougher ones. The hard part will be pressing out and in some of the rear arm bushings and the rear diff. There's another somewhat local individual that's offered to help with the install too. It should be fun.
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Old 03-21-2007, 01:26 PM   #6
Flaroc01
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I just ordered some bushings from ralispec too. Just the lateral and trailing link bushings though. I'll get to the engine,tranny,and diff mounts when I'm done with the suspension.
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:31 PM   #7
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You won't be disappointed w/ the addition of Grp N bushings

if you guys are doing the rear trailing link bushings- feel free to pm about the "special tool"
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:53 PM   #8
Flaroc01
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BigskyWRX check your PM's I already did. Let me know when the tool comes in.

In the meantime could you suggest a link for removing the rear trailing link bushing. I see that you have a writeup on ClubWRX.com for the front trailing arm bushing but I couldn't find one for the rear bushing even though it says you were getting around to it.
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:11 PM   #9
BIGSKYWRX
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yup- got it and responded

this thread has quite a bit of info on the install- I also have detailed instructions that go w/ the tool too
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Old 03-21-2007, 11:24 PM   #10
Back Road Runner
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Start time is 9:00AM Sunday morning.
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Old 03-22-2007, 05:52 AM   #11
fastwrx25
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good luck!! let us know how it goes!

some of those bushings seem to be a bear to install.
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:31 AM   #12
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Don't worry I will. Yeah, it'll be interesting I'm sure. Some of the rear ones should be a bear, but I'm already expecting that.
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Old 03-25-2007, 04:45 PM   #13
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Default Update 1

Ok, I went in around 9AM this morning to where my friend works. We got the car up on the hoist and went to work.

The run down:
-motor mounts(2x)
-dog bone
-tranny front and rear crossmember bushings(4x)
-tranny mount
-steering rack bushings
-front arm rear bushing
-rear diff outrigger bushings

The whole front's done and the biggest culpret of slack, the rear diff outriggers. Total time, a casual 5 hours.

The everything on the front went pretty smoothly. The square steering rack bushing was a bear as it was so akward and there wasn't much free space to push the bushing around. The engine had to be cranked up a good ways to get to the engine mount rear bolt and to get the mounts out. It was a bit of work getting it back in the holes as the whole engine/tranny shifted foward about an inch and basically had to be pryed back. The front arm rear bushing and tranny mounts were a breeze. The dog bone was pretty easy too. The rear diff outrigger took some work. The rear section of the exhaust had to be removed as well as some diff shielding and the whole diff at to be lowered and the driveshaft disconnected. It wasn't all that bad though. The outrigger was fun and the old ones pretty much had to burned and beaten out. With the help of a hand press and an old and beated floor model, the new ones went in relatively smoothly but had to be fine tuned a tiny bit with a hammer to get them down flush all around.

So how does it drive?

Niiiiiiice.

Basically, the car's still as comfortable a drive as it is stock, just a wholely solid feel. When you turn, it turns. There's no flex, no play, nothing. The steering feels connected right to the tires and you get a lot greater sense of the road. Shifting is solid and precise. There's still a little side play(wiggle) in the shifter itself, but the actual shifting is solid. Remember, I had the full Kartboy install already, bushings and short shifter. The rear end is still noticably mushy. There's still some slop in the drivetrain, but it's pretty much cut in half.

What about NVH? Well, oddly not as much as I would expect. You do directly feel the engine now and there is some guthral noise as the engine revs up, almost a throaty, mean presence. There is no harshness. The ride is just as comfortable as it was beforehand, just more solid and precise. There's no jarring, no jerks, no noises, just a nice ride. The car idles well, no heavy vibration or anything. There is some peak vibration around 3k rpm but it's less vibration and more a guthral throaty sound from the engine.

I can't wait to get the rear end done and the car finished up, but that'll have to wait for another day, maybe a week or two.

I'll get some more drive time in and some more "spirited" driving and some rougher roads to get a better feel of everything. So far so good. 100% satisfied and now only longing to get the rear end done.
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Old 03-25-2007, 05:05 PM   #14
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Did you do the Grp N "outrigger" ones- the front rear diff cross member ?

If so how were they to press out/in? Guessing you have to remove the entire crossmember?

There are only two Grp N buhings that I've yet to do- those and the solid metal ones that go between the frame and the rearmost cross member.

Last edited by BIGSKYWRX; 03-26-2007 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 03-25-2007, 06:22 PM   #15
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Yep, Group N outriggers. We basically cut out and melted all(most) the rubber off the stock bushing, lol. Then with a torch, my friend cut a line out of the stock bushing metal sleeve to weaken it. An air chizzle folded in the the sleeve and pushed it right out. Then it was just a matter of pressing in the new one. It went in without a lot of trouble. His little C-clamp style one was sized slightly goofy and the old beater floor model in the back was only ok. I was hanging off the other end of the brace as a counter weight(lever arm). It was as much man power as it was hydralic power, lol. I assume it's the same for the trailing arm front bushings and the rear bushings for the diff as both are sleeved types. The rear bushings will need the whole rear subframe(crossmember?) removed, but that's ok as when I get to that, all the laterla links and such will come with it too in one whole connected pile. I didn't throw in the rear subframe locks that I have as I will wait till I get all the rer bushings in. After that, I will do a full alignment of the car to make sure all is square and true.

If I was feeling adventurous, I might have done the rest, but I've got a test on Monday, and I want to get studying at least some time this weekend. A lot was done however, and I'm happy with what was accomplished so far.

With the outriggers in, I get no gain in NVH at all from the rear, no whine at any particular rpm or anything. The Group N ones do seem to do quite well in not introducing excess NVH. Even with the whole front done in Group N trim, all I really get is a little engine feel and and a modest but very acceptable gain in audible engine presence. It's not loud, not noisy. It doesn't whine or drown out the radio or talking, but it is there. An aftermarket exhaust would be far worse, and the guthral nature of the sound is actually somewhat intoxicating, beasty if you will.
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:34 PM   #16
fastwrx25
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congrats!! you da man!!

good luck with the rest of the bushings
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:00 PM   #17
BIGSKYWRX
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If you have a digital camera handy- snap a couple of pics of the rear cross member install- I still have these sitting in my basement- they should be on my car
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:23 PM   #18
Back Road Runner
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Picks of what?

It looks like stock.

As far as the install itself, it's not too complex or messy except removing a bunch of parts.

There's a driveshaft shield/safety catch in the front, 6 bolts. The driveshaft comes off, 4 small bolts. My driveshaft and attachment point on the diff were both marked. All that's a piece of cake. There's 4 long bolts that go through the diff from above(two 2 bolt plates) mounting the front C shaped crossmember down over the diff., and there's a plate underneith with two bolts on either side that completes the full circle around the diff for the crossmember. We unbolted the diff from the back bushings and pulled the diff completely out. The tw 2 long bolt plates that bolt the crossmember to the diff slide out from above. This lets you seperate the crossmember full from the diff. Then you have to remove the small plates on either side that hold up the outriggers. After the large bolt through the outrigger bushing and the two small bolts that hold the little plates to the car come off, the crossmember is free. We had to unscrew the parking brake cables some(mounting brackets) as they are in the way of taking out the crossmember. Unbolt the outside bracket on both sides, and the parking brake cables have enough movement that you can free the outrigger crossmember. After that, you just have the super easy task of taking out the stock bushings and pressing in the new ones. Install is simply reverse. It's pretty straightforward, but it's just a bunch of little things. A transmission jack is nice to have to hold up the diff. Mine fell off once. ..didn't wreck anything thankfully. Then we got the better tranny jack.
It just sort of dangles by the driveshafts. It probably doesn't hurt anything. The diff itself isn't all that heavy. It's just kind of a bad habit(dumb). That and a jack will help you reinstall the crossmember when you got to realign and put all the bolts back in. Otherwise you need spare hands.

I could take picks of the bolts and such like you have on your clubwrx.net post.

The whole thing has to come back out anyways when I finish up the rear bushings. Well, the diff and crossmember probably just stays and is held up while the whole rear subframe and suspension arms get removed... We'll see how it ends up.
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Old 03-25-2007, 10:56 PM   #19
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Ahhh- you already have the solid metal cross member bushings in then? Those are the ones I've been procrastinating over

Did you do the rear diff mount- the one directly behind the diff (two bushing tied w/ a metal strap)?
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Old 03-26-2007, 12:11 AM   #20
Back Road Runner
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Nope. My "older" Forester doesn't have that metal strap. The rear bushings are actually built into the rear subframe...requiring me to remove the whole subframe to press them out. When I do that, the trailing arms and lateral links will come with it, and I will do all that stuff all at once in the near future. I just did the outriggers since that didn't require the whole subframe to be removed.
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