Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Monday September 22, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Built Motor Discussion

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-29-2013, 10:38 AM   #1
Matt_H
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 107000
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Bristow, VA
Vehicle:
2008 STI <3 TXS and
Andrewtech

Default Another 08 STI build - 3MI racing long rod GTX3582

Figured it was time to post a build thread since it's coming close to being finished. I cracked a ring on my OEM block after about 2k miles with the GTX3582. I made 432hp/378tq.


I decided to go with a long rod engine from 3MI Racing with heads built by Headgames Motorworks, installed by Andrewtech Automotive and tuned by Jermaine at TurboXS. I bought the car new in late 2008 and was my DD until the motor went last October. I picked up a truck so now the STI will be my fun car. To top it off the car was paid off last week.

JE pistons
2.0 nitrated crank
New 2.5 case halves
Long rods with L19 hw
Pocket port
GSC Beehive springs
GSC 272 cams
Ferrea 6000 series valves
ARP2000 headstuds
DXD Stage 3 Daily clutch

TurboXS rotated kit with GTX3582
TurboXS turbo back
TurboXS Utec
TiAL 38mm WG
Cosworth intake manifold
GT-Spec EL exhaust manifold
Killer B pick up
GrimmSpeed P&P TGV deletes
GrimmSpeed P&P trottle body
Perrin fuel rails
DW65C fuel pump
Aeromotive fpr
Mishimoto radiator
KS Tech block off plates

Here is the old setup prior to cracking a ring.




I pulled the motor myself in my small two car garage with no help at all, except Andrew at Andrewtech on the phone for support.

As you can see, there wasn't a whole lot of room to work with.





I still need to figure out what I'm going to do for fueling. The listed setup is what I ran on the old motor, but with modded WRX injectors which I won't be reusing. I'll be running 93 oct fuel as the closest E85 station is ~40 miles away and I won't drive the car a lot so I don't want E85 to sit in the tank for a while (unless that's not an issue?). I saw ID1300s are available/coming out so I'll more than likely be going that route. Anyone have recommendations for fuel pumps, in tank or external, or maybe I should run a surge tank fed by the 65C?
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by Matt_H; 09-25-2013 at 09:33 PM.
Matt_H is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2013, 12:12 PM   #2
albersondh
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 196882
Join Date: Dec 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Holset baller on a budget.
Vehicle:
08 WRX

Default

I run E85 in my 08 and frequently go away on trips for weeks at a time. If you know its going to sit just top off the tank to reduce the affects of condensation and water mixing into the fuel. Running modified OE injectors (910cc). I also run an in-tank Wally 400lph in the OE sump, driven daily on E85, no fueling related issues for a couple years now. My sending is -8 with a Golan filter, Weldon FPR and -6 return to the OE return line at the fire wall. Still using the OE FP wires and pump controller with no issues....
albersondh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2013, 03:39 PM   #3
Matt_H
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 107000
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Bristow, VA
Vehicle:
2008 STI <3 TXS and
Andrewtech

Default

I'd imagine you had to modify the fuel pump housing to fit the 400lhp pump? Are you running a -8 all the way to the bay?
Matt_H is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2013, 04:17 PM   #4
albersondh
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 196882
Join Date: Dec 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Holset baller on a budget.
Vehicle:
08 WRX

Default

Yes you have to mod the OE sump. Mine sends -8 straight out of the sump to a Golan, through the fire wall, then to a "Y". From the "Y" fitting Im feeding Aeromotive rails, returning -8 to the FPR, then neck down to -6 on a swivel fitting, through a GM FFV sensor (using a Zietronix Ethanol gauge) to the OE return.





albersondh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2013, 04:25 PM   #5
Zee Biker
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 166005
Join Date: Dec 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Northern 'Burbs
Vehicle:
2005 Saab 92x
Beaten Silver

Default

Really small cams for the destroker!


Wally 400 should be all you'd need with the id1300, maybe do a hardwire just because you can.
Zee Biker is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2013, 05:03 PM   #6
albersondh
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 196882
Join Date: Dec 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Holset baller on a budget.
Vehicle:
08 WRX

Default

I agree ^ about the cams but Im sure there is some logic behind that choice. Everyone seems to favor a hard wire and some will claim issues without. I cant speak for pre 08 stuff but my OE FP wires are decent gauge and I have never had any issues.... Running the OE controller helps keep the fuel and pump cooler, saves me on pluming the return. I would worry about overrunning the OE return with 100% pump DC, OE return, and 400+LPH supply. Properly modding the OE sump for a 400+LPH Wally is a chore with no "off the shelf" solutions available that I am aware of, adding plus size (-6) return with no neck down to the OE sump would be nearly impossible given space constraints. Surprising to me that a in-tank modded sump for Wally 400/465 for MY 08+ has not hit the market yet? Maybe more labor than its worth in terms of profit margin.... Maybe a (made up number>) $600 modded OE sump with 400/465lph just wouldn't look like $600 but I can tell you the labor hours are there....
albersondh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2013, 05:40 PM   #7
Matt_H
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 107000
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Bristow, VA
Vehicle:
2008 STI <3 TXS and
Andrewtech

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by albersondh View Post
Yes you have to mod the OE sump. Mine sends -8 straight out of the sump to a Golan, through the fire wall, then to a "Y". From the "Y" fitting Im feeding Aeromotive rails, returning -8 to the FPR, then neck down to -6 on a swivel fitting, through a GM FFV sensor (using a Zietronix Ethanol gauge) to the OE return.
Perfect, thanks for the info! I've thought about just having using the pump I have now to feed a Radium surge tank with 044 or 400 pump, but I think it might be cheaper and less clutter to just run the intank 400.
http://www.radiumauto.com/Walbro-400...anks-P279.aspx

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zee Biker View Post
Really small cams for the destroker!
That's the cam Micah recommended I go, I'm sure there is reasoning behind it.
Matt_H is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 05:23 PM   #8
Matt_H
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 107000
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Bristow, VA
Vehicle:
2008 STI <3 TXS and
Andrewtech

Default

Picked up my motor this morning and had a tow truck come and pick up my car yesterday. Dropping off the motor at the shop tomorrow.





Matt_H is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 09:32 PM   #9
Homemade WRX
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 33782
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: 3MI Racing LLC
Vehicle:
96 bastard child
search FIRST, then PM!!!

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zee Biker View Post
Really small cams for the destroker!

Wally 400 should be all you'd need with the id1300, maybe do a hardwire just because you can.
It is a street car and he didn't have big power goals. It was a choice of blanace to go with the Headgames pocket port heads. They are also the S2 cams, not S1.
Homemade WRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 10:07 PM   #10
spintheground
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 239638
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: VA Beach
Vehicle:
2007 WRX TR UGM
02 MR2 EGM

Default

Curious why you picked the GTX3582 given the destroked motor and pocket port + S1* cams. I'm thinking longevity? Lower boost to reach your power and powerband goals?

Definitely interested to see the results!

Depending how the turbo spools your car will be a blast to drive and the motor will last for many miles!

*edit.. just read^
S2's will give you good top end while maintaining driveablity and not sacrificing anything in the mid range.
spintheground is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2013, 07:03 AM   #11
manitou
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 193757
Join Date: Nov 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar, MI HP Techs MPS-SSLR2.5
Vehicle:
2006 XTI Limited
OBP, Junior tuned 573WHP

Default

Why do you think you need ID1300's if you're not going to use E85? The 1300 are really made for e85 and you could use the ID1ks, make your power on 93 pump gas or pump and meth and save some money. But on the other hand the 1300 do run well on straight 93 and you would have plenty of head room. I almost feel like they do better down low on 93 than the 1000's!
manitou is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2013, 07:22 AM   #12
Matt_H
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 107000
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Bristow, VA
Vehicle:
2008 STI <3 TXS and
Andrewtech

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by spintheground View Post
Curious why you picked the GTX3582 given the destroked motor and pocket port + S1* cams. I'm thinking longevity? Lower boost to reach your power and powerband goals?

Definitely interested to see the results!

Depending how the turbo spools your car will be a blast to drive and the motor will last for many miles!

*edit.. just read^
S2's will give you good top end while maintaining driveablity and not sacrificing anything in the mid range.
I had the GTX35 prior to getting the motor, I ran it on my original motor.


Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
Why do you think you need ID1300's if you're not going to use E85? The 1300 are really made for e85 and you could use the ID1ks, make your power on 93 pump gas or pump and meth and save some money. But on the other hand the 1300 do run well on straight 93 and you would have plenty of head room. I almost feel like they do better down low on 93 than the 1000's!
I wasn't sure if I was going to go E85, and I wanted the option to. The closest gas station that sells it is just too far to justify it, so ill be going with the 1ks.
Matt_H is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2013, 07:33 AM   #13
manitou
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 193757
Join Date: Nov 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar, MI HP Techs MPS-SSLR2.5
Vehicle:
2006 XTI Limited
OBP, Junior tuned 573WHP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt_H View Post
I had the GTX35 prior to getting the motor, I ran it on my original motor.

I wasn't sure if I was going to go E85, and I wanted the option to. The closest gas station that sells it is just too far to justify it, so ill be going with the 1ks.
I was debating myself and I (and you won the debate). I'd go with the 1300's and then you'll have options. They idle and drive great on 93! 14.5-14.7 AFR

I'm close to maxing mine on e85 at 50 psi base. So I think I'm gonna bump up the base to 55 or 60. My Dom 3.5 is making even more power with these than the last dyno/ tune session said at 580.

I'd also do the re-wire of the Wally and run it through the stock FPC. It'll help the pump at 100% duty. BTW I'm using the 465 re-wired thru the stock FPC.
manitou is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 08:22 PM   #14
Matt_H
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 107000
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Bristow, VA
Vehicle:
2008 STI <3 TXS and
Andrewtech

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
I was debating myself and I (and you won the debate). I'd go with the 1300's and then you'll have options. They idle and drive great on 93! 14.5-14.7 AFR

I'd also do the re-wire of the Wally and run it through the stock FPC. It'll help the pump at 100% duty. BTW I'm using the 465 re-wired thru the stock FPC.
I really think I'm just going to stick with 1000's. Too much of a hassle getting E85.

I still have just the DW65C fuel pump for now, which I'll break the motor in on. I need to figure out what direction I'm going with the fuel pump as well.
Matt_H is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2013, 08:25 PM   #15
Matt_H
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 107000
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Bristow, VA
Vehicle:
2008 STI <3 TXS and
Andrewtech

Default

Went with ID1000s and the motor is coming together.

Matt_H is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2013, 09:52 PM   #16
spintheground
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 239638
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: VA Beach
Vehicle:
2007 WRX TR UGM
02 MR2 EGM

Default

What coating is on those headers? Looks fantastic!
spintheground is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2013, 08:38 AM   #17
Matt_H
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 107000
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Bristow, VA
Vehicle:
2008 STI <3 TXS and
Andrewtech

Default

Just the cheapo VHT spray. Thanks!
Matt_H is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2013, 09:32 AM   #18
spintheground
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 239638
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: VA Beach
Vehicle:
2007 WRX TR UGM
02 MR2 EGM

Default

Try not to spill coolant on them. I had mine ceramic coated a year or 2 ago and they still look good except the spots I got coolant on.

Interested to see how it holds up for you considering the temperatures it will be seeing.
spintheground is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2013, 10:12 AM   #19
Matt_H
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 107000
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Bristow, VA
Vehicle:
2008 STI <3 TXS and
Andrewtech

Default

I really only coated it since the surface prior to spraying didn't look pretty. VHTs site says it's rated at 1300F-2000F. When I was tuned a while back my up pipe was glowing during pulls, so I would only imagine the EM would be hotter, so it will be interesting to see what happens to the coating.
Matt_H is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2014, 12:30 PM   #20
Matt_H
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 107000
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Bristow, VA
Vehicle:
2008 STI <3 TXS and
Andrewtech

Default

Many months later and it's done, kinda.

Went on the dyno last weekend, had 1100 miles on the new motor, driven on a break in map.

Three wastegate pressure pulls and it had to come off the dyno. There was oil pouring from the intake, oil in the intake and turbo. Didn't want to drive the car home in that condition so I left it there.

Any thoughts of what could be the issue? Bad PCV valve? Bad turbo (~3500 miles on it), rings not seated? I do have a Prosport gauge that read as low as 8psi, but who knows how accurate it is.
Matt_H is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 11:49 AM   #21
Matt_H
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 107000
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Bristow, VA
Vehicle:
2008 STI <3 TXS and
Andrewtech

Default

Well the motor has to come out.
Matt_H is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 01:27 PM   #22
cubuff
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 38345
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Littleton, CO
Vehicle:
2004 WRB WRX

Default

What was the issue? Interested and nervous because I have a longrod setup im putting together right now.
cubuff is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 02:07 PM   #23
Matt_H
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 107000
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Bristow, VA
Vehicle:
2008 STI <3 TXS and
Andrewtech

Default

Not sure yet, we'll find out when it's out.
Matt_H is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 02:26 PM   #24
Homemade WRX
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 33782
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: 3MI Racing LLC
Vehicle:
96 bastard child
search FIRST, then PM!!!

Default

We aren't sure yet. Andrewtech did the final assembly on it and the car was there for its tune, etc. I spoke with Andrew about this morning. All had seemed fine, less some suspected PCV issues, and Andrew went to take it for a spin this morning when he heard a cluck, followed by some odd knock/clucking sounds. Towed back to the shop, fired it up up and it idled fine when sporadically, the clunk came back.

Andrew and I are both scratching our heads, have guesses, but we are waiting for the teardown, about a week away due to their schedule.
Homemade WRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2014, 04:13 PM   #25
DisoDisp
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 187648
Join Date: Aug 2008
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Finland
Vehicle:
2007 WRX

Default

Thahs too bad, interested to find out.
DisoDisp is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.